in the last 2 pics, that closest wolf in particular is gorgeous.
Aw, thanks. i hit some magic mix of washes with that one and the fur came out really vibrant.
3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
+1
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
First off those look ridiculous @Matrias. Amazing work. I have a soft spot for Space Wolves.
General thread question: When doing sub assembly work, how are you folks masking the parts to not paint over glue joints? I'm using Valejo Liquid Mask right now just curious if people have some other techniques to try.
Those are not gates, but they are right smack in the front.
One is under the skull, one under the laurel weave on our left. Those are places for bubbles to flow into.
The yellow came out kind of chalky, IMO, but all details are well preserved and the colours have perfect coverage. What style are you going for? More painterly or more cartoon?
Don’t forget to paint his combat studs, otherwise he looks like he’s about to sprout horns and start praising the dark gods.
Or he's about to pull a guitar out of his skull and start going ham on some daemons.
Which... well, that's probably Chaos too, now that I think about it.
Those are not gates, but they are right smack in the front.
One is under the skull, one under the laurel weave on our left. Those are places for bubbles to flow into.
The yellow came out kind of chalky, IMO, but all details are well preserved and the colours have perfect coverage. What style are you going for? More painterly or more cartoon?
I haven't finished the yellow. I actually need a coat of Yriel Yellow, then a glaze over that.
That model is resin now, isn't it? I'm tempted to pick one up, delicately shave off the fist icons, and using his body for a Terminator Captain.
One thing I liked about Finecast despite all its problems was being able to convert all these previously metal models without almost slicing off my thumb.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
0
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Okay, hoping for some assorted experiences here ...
I've been powering though a small, cheap aircraft kit my mother got me in high school (bless her ), and was generally having a really good time with it. Felt like my airbrush work was alright, and I masked off the big bits effectively, and even managed to pretty nicely salvage my much younger self's fuck-up of the canopy. So I got my first top-coat on with the colors down, and moved on to decals. Here's where I need some input.
Microset seems to generally work okay here. I don't think things have been out of step with it on getting decals onto the plane. However microsol isn't being well received. It's universally causing the decals to curl to varying degrees, and nothing has settled well except for two small ones I fucked with a lot for the first 30 minutes after applying them. There are patches that set right, but there's way more wrinkling/lifting/bubbling. The decals are basically being destroyed rather than 'melted' as you might expect. And I'm wondering if this is possibly because they're old? Or if there are secretly more than one kind of water transfer decal and these ones aren't compatible? Or if I'm somehow just fucking things up myself? Thoughts?
Actually, that is how it works. Initially, they will curl like that, but if you leave them for an hour or so, they should even back out.
No, it's much worse than that. I'm familiar with how it's supposed to cause some deformation, but this is immediate and lasting. Let me take a photo ...
The UC had Microsol applied before I went to work this morning. The 26 I left with just Microset to see if there would be any reaction.
The circle at the back has issues, but they're too subtle to capture with my cell camera, and it turned out better because I was able to baby it for 40 minutes. Very similar circles on the wings are the same story - They're mostly okay because I applied microsol 4 times and was able to tend to them for the time following, fixing the lifting and curling from the original application.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Yeah, that's... pretty bad.
I don't think my MicroSol has ever been that bad. I do still have issues though, and it always with round transfers on a curved surface.
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
On another note, yes, I can now confirm Vallejo Surface primer is the way and the light.
I had to completely scrape all the paint off Lysander's left knee pad and start over. I seem to have a problem with curved surfaces like knee pads or shoulder pads where I can't get a flat even coat in a circular area in the middle of the pad, and the paint gets pulled to form a ring around that area. Then no matter what I do, it just seems to build up that ring while not staying in the middle.
I've got the primer on, and my first two thin layers of Averland Sunset. I'll touch it up in a few with Yriel Yellow and hopefully that will do it. But now I need to redo the studs on it. Blech.
Painting a squad of ten marines takes so much longer than painting big vehicles! These guys took forever!
The 80's glamrock-weaponized-guitars don't really fit with my Blood Renegades aesthetic, so I made up these Noise Marines to be more... rifle marines? They got snazzguns that shoot a lot. Also they're keeping topknots in style.
Given the newer proportions of the Rubric and Plague Marines, I needed to make these guys fit in with that range. The legs are from the Blood Warrior kit, and have much better posture and size. The assault rifles are standard bolters with Admech Infiltrator gunbarrels added for length. The "mini battle cannons" (aka Blastmasters) are Calth missile launchers with ork supashoota barrels.
Better look at the shoulder cannons, which I think turned out pretty good.
Turnaround gif doesnt have nearly enough frames to track clearly, but I'll add it anyways.
+27
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Dang it, McGibs. How can you make such nice stuff?
I've never seen an orange army look so danged good.
+2
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I was panicked tonight thinking I had screwed up my airbrush. Thankfully it's back in good working order now and I've learned a lot more about how they come apart and go back together. I've learned they're less fragile, but also more precise, than I thought.
I was panicked tonight thinking I had screwed up my airbrush. Thankfully it's back in good working order now and I've learned a lot more about how they come apart and go back together. I've learned they're less fragile, but also more precise, than I thought.
FWIW, I have been exactly there. I got to learn about how if it gets wet, the o-ring in the bottom assembly can swell and make the trigger cease to function. That was fun and not at all heart-attack-inducing when it happened. ;P
I saw a kid get handed a JB poster by who I presume was his parents outside my store today....he tore it in half infront of his horrified parents.....There's hope for our youth yet!
+7
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I was panicked tonight thinking I had screwed up my airbrush. Thankfully it's back in good working order now and I've learned a lot more about how they come apart and go back together. I've learned they're less fragile, but also more precise, than I thought.
FWIW, I have been exactly there. I got to learn about how if it gets wet, the o-ring in the bottom assembly can swell and make the trigger cease to function. That was fun and not at all heart-attack-inducing when it happened. ;P
Yeah, in my case I had done a full disassembly and clean after not using it for a bit. I didn't reseat the needle correctly and got all kinds of anomalies. Sometimes paint would flow, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes air would back up in to the paint pot. Finally last night I realized I needed to seat the needle better and like magic I had paint flow and control back and paint wasn't leaking out of the front of the airbrush constantly.
I finally had some time to paint before work today... been laying flooring in my house all week and didn't manage to get it done until today. Made myself sit down to paint as a break before going back on shift.
A couple pages back I looked for advice on glazes, and voila! Finally, edge highlighted and glazed green...
My first Foetid Bloat Drone (More pics spoilered so I don't flood the entire page)
Thanks! The painting spark for those guys was very flickery, so I get it. I had the first 6 painted months ago, and really had to force myself to finally finish the last 4 over the course of a week.
Nice to have the whole squad done though. Now I can get back to big evil robots.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
I don't remember if I posted it here, but I posted this to Reddit yesterday:
and got this response...
you make the rest of us look like a steaming pile of shit
And then this when I questioned it:
Just accept that you're an extremely good painter who's better than the vast majority.
I've never been praised like that, and I'm still not sure it applies, but it gives me encouragement that I am getting better than when I first was on this site grilling Keenbean, Tox and everybody else about their craft.
I see how you guys have improved and it also gives me hope I can be even better someday.
valhalla130 on
+17
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
For one thing, that's a very good photo of the work you did. For another thing, the second response is straight up true.
Posts
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Aw, thanks. i hit some magic mix of washes with that one and the fur came out really vibrant.
General thread question: When doing sub assembly work, how are you folks masking the parts to not paint over glue joints? I'm using Valejo Liquid Mask right now just curious if people have some other techniques to try.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Same thing I'm using now while working on Lysander. Does he look okay so far?
I think I'm going to pin his arms on.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Thanks.
One is under the skull, one under the laurel weave on our left. Those are places for bubbles to flow into.
The yellow came out kind of chalky, IMO, but all details are well preserved and the colours have perfect coverage. What style are you going for? More painterly or more cartoon?
Or he's about to pull a guitar out of his skull and start going ham on some daemons.
Which... well, that's probably Chaos too, now that I think about it.
We know little about the genealogy of the space marines so who knows what minor things pop up over the life of a Space Marine
I haven't finished the yellow. I actually need a coat of Yriel Yellow, then a glaze over that.
One thing I liked about Finecast despite all its problems was being able to convert all these previously metal models without almost slicing off my thumb.
I've been powering though a small, cheap aircraft kit my mother got me in high school (bless her ), and was generally having a really good time with it. Felt like my airbrush work was alright, and I masked off the big bits effectively, and even managed to pretty nicely salvage my much younger self's fuck-up of the canopy. So I got my first top-coat on with the colors down, and moved on to decals. Here's where I need some input.
Microset seems to generally work okay here. I don't think things have been out of step with it on getting decals onto the plane. However microsol isn't being well received. It's universally causing the decals to curl to varying degrees, and nothing has settled well except for two small ones I fucked with a lot for the first 30 minutes after applying them. There are patches that set right, but there's way more wrinkling/lifting/bubbling. The decals are basically being destroyed rather than 'melted' as you might expect. And I'm wondering if this is possibly because they're old? Or if there are secretly more than one kind of water transfer decal and these ones aren't compatible? Or if I'm somehow just fucking things up myself?
Thoughts?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
The circle at the back has issues, but they're too subtle to capture with my cell camera, and it turned out better because I was able to baby it for 40 minutes. Very similar circles on the wings are the same story - They're mostly okay because I applied microsol 4 times and was able to tend to them for the time following, fixing the lifting and curling from the original application.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I don't think my MicroSol has ever been that bad. I do still have issues though, and it always with round transfers on a curved surface.
I had to completely scrape all the paint off Lysander's left knee pad and start over. I seem to have a problem with curved surfaces like knee pads or shoulder pads where I can't get a flat even coat in a circular area in the middle of the pad, and the paint gets pulled to form a ring around that area. Then no matter what I do, it just seems to build up that ring while not staying in the middle.
I've got the primer on, and my first two thin layers of Averland Sunset. I'll touch it up in a few with Yriel Yellow and hopefully that will do it. But now I need to redo the studs on it. Blech.
The 80's glamrock-weaponized-guitars don't really fit with my Blood Renegades aesthetic, so I made up these Noise Marines to be more... rifle marines? They got snazzguns that shoot a lot. Also they're keeping topknots in style.
Given the newer proportions of the Rubric and Plague Marines, I needed to make these guys fit in with that range. The legs are from the Blood Warrior kit, and have much better posture and size. The assault rifles are standard bolters with Admech Infiltrator gunbarrels added for length. The "mini battle cannons" (aka Blastmasters) are Calth missile launchers with ork supashoota barrels.
Better look at the shoulder cannons, which I think turned out pretty good.
Turnaround gif doesnt have nearly enough frames to track clearly, but I'll add it anyways.
I've never seen an orange army look so danged good.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Some bolt action love
Us airborne down now for the germans
Yeah, in my case I had done a full disassembly and clean after not using it for a bit. I didn't reseat the needle correctly and got all kinds of anomalies. Sometimes paint would flow, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes air would back up in to the paint pot. Finally last night I realized I needed to seat the needle better and like magic I had paint flow and control back and paint wasn't leaking out of the front of the airbrush constantly.
I was back in the land of smooth blue base coats.
A couple pages back I looked for advice on glazes, and voila! Finally, edge highlighted and glazed green...
My first Foetid Bloat Drone (More pics spoilered so I don't flood the entire page)
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Nice to have the whole squad done though. Now I can get back to big evil robots.
Or will I just completely bung up my airbrush?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Probably. Glazes are already super thin. They're really just paint with a shitload of medium to disperse the pigment.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I saw online how to make metallic armors by basing metal and then glazing, but it looked like a pain to do with a brush.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Blue glaze over chrome:
Red glaze over dark steel:
and got this response...
And then this when I questioned it:
I've never been praised like that, and I'm still not sure it applies, but it gives me encouragement that I am getting better than when I first was on this site grilling Keenbean, Tox and everybody else about their craft.
I see how you guys have improved and it also gives me hope I can be even better someday.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?