So I've got a Xiphon Interceptor and a Secret Weapon base + flight widget (AKA 12mm acrylic rod). Unfortunately the resin is too soft and shallow to hold the rod up without glue, especially given the geniuses at Forge World decided that the best place for a mounting point on the Xiphon is as far back as possible. So I'm thinking of driving a pin into it (specifically a nail) to give it a bit more support. The problem I'm having is where to put the pin. Towards the front of the base, towards the back, or maybe both. Any ideas?
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
So I've got a Xiphon Interceptor and a Secret Weapon base + flight widget (AKA 12mm acrylic rod). Unfortunately the resin is too soft and shallow to hold the rod up without glue, especially given the geniuses at Forge World decided that the best place for a mounting point on the Xiphon is as far back as possible. So I'm thinking of driving a pin into it (specifically a nail) to give it a bit more support. The problem I'm having is where to put the pin. Towards the front of the base, towards the back, or maybe both. Any ideas?
Center of mass of the interceptor should, if possible, be directly above the center of the base. That ought to maximize the stability of the model.
So I've got a Xiphon Interceptor and a Secret Weapon base + flight widget (AKA 12mm acrylic rod). Unfortunately the resin is too soft and shallow to hold the rod up without glue, especially given the geniuses at Forge World decided that the best place for a mounting point on the Xiphon is as far back as possible. So I'm thinking of driving a pin into it (specifically a nail) to give it a bit more support. The problem I'm having is where to put the pin. Towards the front of the base, towards the back, or maybe both. Any ideas?
Center of mass of the interceptor should, if possible, be directly above the center of the base. That ought to maximize the stability of the model.
Not possible because I fucked up and ordered the base pre-drilled. The rod is dead center of the base, so the centre of mass is towards the front. Should I pin towards the front (which I'm leaning towards) to have the weight pull the rod onto the pin, or towards the rear where the rod is pivoting out of it's tiny hole.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I thought your kicks were supposed to be the most eye drawing part of the outfit.
Well yeah, but after one or two tries I can tell it just looks weird with a heroic sculpt style miniature the feet look huge when the rest of the model isn't as garish.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I thought your kicks were supposed to be the most eye drawing part of the outfit.
Well yeah, but after one or two tries I can tell it just looks weird with a heroic sculpt style miniature the feet look huge when the rest of the model isn't as garish.
Well there's your problem! Time to NASCAR up their uniforms, then.
I thought your kicks were supposed to be the most eye drawing part of the outfit.
Well yeah, but after one or two tries I can tell it just looks weird with a heroic sculpt style miniature the feet look huge when the rest of the model isn't as garish.
Well there's your problem! Time to NASCAR up their uniforms, then.
*race car pulls into pit row*
*elf driver lifts his visor and sips a drink as 5 orcs dash out to change tires, one lifts the car while the 4 others rip tires off the car and forcibly shove new ones on*
*orc lifting the car yells GOOD TA GOOOOOOOOOOOOO as he shoves the vehicle off to a start so hard it goes careening into a wall and explodes*
*orc pit team high fives another good job done*
Does anyone have general guidance on using tufts? May be I’m overthinking it, but I’m wondering a lot about the quantity and positioning on a 32mm GW base. I’m worried that too many will drown the miniature, but too few will make the tufts stand out too sharply.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I generally try to keep it to 2 to 3 small to medium size ones on a single fig. I have a third of a sheet of the Middenheim tufts from GW I'm not using because they're too big. I will probably try to use them on my knight.
I actually just purchased some model train tufts that are a little darker, but pretty good quality. Ive been using the smaller ones to continue the troops. It's miniNatur Silflor.
I have GW Middenland tufts. You can very lightly drybrush them if you want to goof around with their colors a little bit. I drybrushed screamer pink to the tips of the ones I used on my Ork bases to make them look a little different/more alien with some extra color on the bases, and I added some black to the ones on my Legion of the Damned bases so they would look slightly scorched from the Legionnaires walking near them.
It's so annoying that with the constant wind for the last 6 weeks I want to paint but alas I cannot not {I just have the primer it's the only thing holding me back] and I do not want to primer in the house I am not that desperate.
I've been using the Vallejo primer that you paint on. It's lovely.
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
I've been using the Vallejo primer that you paint on. It's lovely.
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
Yes but I could show you with bad pics since I lack a phone right now
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
Man I've been wondering that for the longest time. Like some kind of warp effect lighting situation or something.
I've been using the Vallejo primer that you paint on. It's lovely.
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
I had some daemons I did something sorta similar on. Primed white, then spray zenithal’d them with black primer so it was still white in the crevices, then glazed it all blue. It looked pretty neat, some dark edge highlighting (highblacking?) would probably have worked well too.
I've been using the Vallejo primer that you paint on. It's lovely.
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
I had some daemons I did something sorta similar on. Primed white, then spray zenithal’d them with black primer so it was still white in the crevices, then glazed it all blue. It looked pretty neat, some dark edge highlighting (highblacking?) would probably have worked well too.
That's what I was thinking. Or if there's a lot of movement to the model to gently switch back and forth between standard and reverse highlight/shadowing to make it look even more warped than normal.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I've been using the Vallejo primer that you paint on. It's lovely.
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
This is generally how one does any sort of lava monster; like a Balrog.
Glazes and shades run through an airbrush are great for tinting colours, just keep your psi low (like, 15).
I gave this a shot today, and oh my lord, is it amazing for applying a wash evenly over a space marine, giving an excellent shade, but not with the kinda inconsistent and varied density that standard full model brush application gives you. It is the way and the light!
Hmmm?? From my experience applying a wash through an airbrush produces a filter - it tints the color but doesn't provide the shading that a wash is supposed to.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
That's what I meant, I just did a poor job of explaining it.
What's wrong with the video - it looks like a pretty standard intro to color theory.
Show me on the wheel where the bad pigment touched you. :biggrin:
Is it because it's not Duncan?
I was making fun of it because they felt the need to talk about colour theory
Eh not everyone took high school art class. I showed it to a friend who is new to the hobby just in case. But also let him know it's art and 'fuck da police.'
Red/Green can turn up like christmas if you aren't careful and everything in media is orange/blue which is annoying unless you can find a way to get away with it.
The bigger concern(at least moreso here) is not picking the colors of a local rival team, pro, college or (in my area) high school. Those people are the worst. "Oh so you're a fan of [x rival team]? [shittalking commences]" "No, I like skaven..."
DiannaoChong on
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
What's wrong with the video - it looks like a pretty standard intro to color theory.
Show me on the wheel where the bad pigment touched you. :biggrin:
Is it because it's not Duncan?
I was making fun of it because they felt the need to talk about colour theory
A lot of gaming painters just pick up the brush and paint and get to work without any formal knowledge of colour theory and why it is that some colour schemes are really attractive, draw the eye, or just don't work. The fact that there's actually formal structure to colours like this can be a pretty big revelation - I didn't know anything about it until after I started playing Warhammer. It never got touched on during formal education.
*edit*
Wow, we're 102 pages deep into this thread? Time to retire the old gal!
Posts
Center of mass of the interceptor should, if possible, be directly above the center of the base. That ought to maximize the stability of the model.
Not possible because I fucked up and ordered the base pre-drilled. The rod is dead center of the base, so the centre of mass is towards the front. Should I pin towards the front (which I'm leaning towards) to have the weight pull the rod onto the pin, or towards the rear where the rod is pivoting out of it's tiny hole.
What colours for the sneakers without making them the most eyedrawing part of the models while still being appropriately foppish sports star looking.
Well yeah, but after one or two tries I can tell it just looks weird with a heroic sculpt style miniature the feet look huge when the rest of the model isn't as garish.
Well there's your problem! Time to NASCAR up their uniforms, then.
*race car pulls into pit row*
*elf driver lifts his visor and sips a drink as 5 orcs dash out to change tires, one lifts the car while the 4 others rip tires off the car and forcibly shove new ones on*
*orc lifting the car yells GOOD TA GOOOOOOOOOOOOO as he shoves the vehicle off to a start so hard it goes careening into a wall and explodes*
*orc pit team high fives another good job done*
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
I actually just purchased some model train tufts that are a little darker, but pretty good quality. Ive been using the smaller ones to continue the troops. It's miniNatur Silflor.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
On the note of White/Black, has anyone ever painted a model where they reversed highlight/shadow? Where they highlight the crevices and shadow the edges? I'm mainly curious to see what that effect looks like as I want to do Flamers, but I don't want them to look like flame.
Yes but I could show you with bad pics since I lack a phone right now
Man I've been wondering that for the longest time. Like some kind of warp effect lighting situation or something.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I had some daemons I did something sorta similar on. Primed white, then spray zenithal’d them with black primer so it was still white in the crevices, then glazed it all blue. It looked pretty neat, some dark edge highlighting (highblacking?) would probably have worked well too.
That's what I was thinking. Or if there's a lot of movement to the model to gently switch back and forth between standard and reverse highlight/shadowing to make it look even more warped than normal.
This is generally how one does any sort of lava monster; like a Balrog.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Just a decal. :snap:
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
But you applied the decal free hand, right?
I gave this a shot today, and oh my lord, is it amazing for applying a wash evenly over a space marine, giving an excellent shade, but not with the kinda inconsistent and varied density that standard full model brush application gives you. It is the way and the light!
What's wrong with the video - it looks like a pretty standard intro to color theory.
Show me on the wheel where the bad pigment touched you. :biggrin:
Is it because it's not Duncan?
I was making fun of it because they felt the need to talk about colour theory
Eh not everyone took high school art class. I showed it to a friend who is new to the hobby just in case. But also let him know it's art and 'fuck da police.'
Red/Green can turn up like christmas if you aren't careful and everything in media is orange/blue which is annoying unless you can find a way to get away with it.
The bigger concern(at least moreso here) is not picking the colors of a local rival team, pro, college or (in my area) high school. Those people are the worst. "Oh so you're a fan of [x rival team]? [shittalking commences]" "No, I like skaven..."
That purple is usually the best answer.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
A lot of gaming painters just pick up the brush and paint and get to work without any formal knowledge of colour theory and why it is that some colour schemes are really attractive, draw the eye, or just don't work. The fact that there's actually formal structure to colours like this can be a pretty big revelation - I didn't know anything about it until after I started playing Warhammer. It never got touched on during formal education.
*edit*
Wow, we're 102 pages deep into this thread? Time to retire the old gal!