The new Necromunda book has some rules for servo skulls that require having a mini, so that might have caused a small run on the bits supply out there.
This is exactly why I want them, building a "house" set of hangers on and hired guns for my gaming group
The new Necromunda book has some rules for servo skulls that require having a mini, so that might have caused a small run on the bits supply out there.
The new Necromunda book has some rules for servo skulls that require having a mini, so that might have caused a small run on the bits supply out there.
I still kind of feel ripped off by gang war 2
I don't blame you, but GW3 is so much better. Just generally a significantly bigger book, but also oodles of fun new stuff you'll want to buy for your gang and a whole bunch of new scenarios.
It's the first book from the new team who are looking after Necromunda going forward now that the original writer has moved on.
Still need to base it and do the ultramarines shoulder, but pretty ok with how it turned out in the end. Botched the eye lenses, but wasn't surprised with that, I probably need a smaller brush, too. Few other little things I want to clean up, too.
Looks good, you should drill the bolter barrel though.
I’m also building some deathwatch vets and it’s a nice kit except there’s only two left arms that aren’t holding power weapons, so if you want just a squad of bolter dudes your boned.
Still need to base it and do the ultramarines shoulder, but pretty ok with how it turned out in the end. Botched the eye lenses, but wasn't surprised with that, I probably need a smaller brush, too. Few other little things I want to clean up, too.
Looks good, you should drill the bolter barrel though.
I’m also building some deathwatch vets and it’s a nice kit except there’s only two left arms that aren’t holding power weapons, so if you want just a squad of bolter dudes your boned.
Yeah, I decided that my plan is to build out one five-man team with a melee focus, one five-man team with a bunch of frag cannons, and put both of those in a corvus. For shooty dudes I'll be more relying on primaris.
One thing to keep in mind is that the two left arms not holding power weapons are holding the clip that is missing from the stalker bolter, if you're neurotic about that kind of stuff like me.
Still need to base it and do the ultramarines shoulder, but pretty ok with how it turned out in the end. Botched the eye lenses, but wasn't surprised with that, I probably need a smaller brush, too. Few other little things I want to clean up, too.
Looks good, you should drill the bolter barrel though.
I’m also building some deathwatch vets and it’s a nice kit except there’s only two left arms that aren’t holding power weapons, so if you want just a squad of bolter dudes your boned.
Yeah, I decided that my plan is to build out one five-man team with a melee focus, one five-man team with a bunch of frag cannons, and put both of those in a corvus. For shooty dudes I'll be more relying on primaris.
One thing to keep in mind is that the two left arms not holding power weapons are holding the clip that is missing from the stalker bolter, if you're neurotic about that kind of stuff like me.
I basically bought them for the bitz, I just built all the shotgun and frag cannon guys, thought I’ll probably just use the frag guys.
For a Melee loadout it’s worth considering that you can exchange the Boltguns for any two options from the list so you can give everyone double chainswords.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Purple
I have no idea how to build my Deathwatch. I know I want a melee squad and a firepower squad. I'm planning on building the Primaris squad for firepower.
I know I want frag cannons in one squad. I'll probably have two squads of vets, one melee and one firepower. So three squads in total. I think you have to have a base of 5 Primaris or 5 vets before you can add more, but I'd like to add some other stuff.
I have a ten man Primaris box, an upgrade sprue, the Deathwatch: Overkill figures and I'm getting a Start Collecting box on Friday.
I just can't wrap my head around all the options in this codex. It doesn't help that I may have given myself a concussion the week I bought the codex.
Hey, is it just me, or does Vallejo paint finish more plastic-y than Citadel paints? Like, when I look at my custodes' robes painted with vallejo flat red, they look like cheap plastic compared to the parts painted with non-vallejo paints.
Different paints have different finishes, definitely. It’s one reason people matte varnish their minis after painting, just to get it all looking uniform.
Hey, is it just me, or does Vallejo paint finish more plastic-y than Citadel paints? Like, when I look at my custodes' robes painted with vallejo flat red, they look like cheap plastic compared to the parts painted with non-vallejo paints.
Finish can vary pretty wildly between ranges (and in the case of Vallejo, within ranges). Though with Vallejo I've noticed that a lot of the time when the paint dries a little (or very) shiny then it hasn't been mixed well enough.
The only ranges I know that are guaranteed to have matte finishes across the board are Reaper and Scale75. All others are satin - glossy.
Is there a specific brand of ultrasonic cleaner that is recommended or does pretty much any kind work?
Edit: can I even put isopropyl alcohol and acetone into an ultrasonic cleaner?
From these instructions it looks like can put iso in an ultrasonic cleaner, but you need an "explosion proof" one.
Sounds like something I'd skip lol
Damn, I really wanna get this paint stripping done quick but a ultrasonic cleaner is just not sounding like an option. Guess I'll just go buy some jars and do it the slow way.
Edit: after a few days of them sitting around the texture doesn't feel too bad anymore. Definitely doesn't feel the same as before and I still like how the color of the paint came out. Maybe I'll just keep them as is and no worry about it. The clumping isn't the worst and I can smooth that down and use a brush to paint over or try to paint some battle damage maybe.
No, I am gonna clean them. There are some that the paint is just too thick. It will good practice.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Is there a specific brand of ultrasonic cleaner that is recommended or does pretty much any kind work?
Edit: can I even put isopropyl alcohol and acetone into an ultrasonic cleaner?
From these instructions it looks like can put iso in an ultrasonic cleaner, but you need an "explosion proof" one.
Sounds like something I'd skip lol
Alcohol in general has flammeable vapors - you have high concentrations of it or put it in something that is going to generate more vapors, and it's even more of ignition hazard.
'Explosion proof' means that the motor and other potentially sparking, ignition heat hazards are atmospherically sealed to not ignite ambient vapors.
Regardless, I can't see any benefit to an ultra sonic cleaner in this case.
+1
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Purple
I put simple green in mine.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
Plastic tupperware container, undiluted Simple Green, a stiff-bristled toothbrush, and 24 hours is all you need.
Something that helps with really stubborn paint is to put your simple green bucket in the sun so it warms up, and to jostle it around occasionally. The heat and agitation will help the models slough off more paint and weaken the bonds.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I really suck at this. Primed some Necron Immortals black and started to paint the shoulders orange with a brush but it looked all bad and clumpy. A friend told me I need to water down the paint.
Cleaning the Immortals off tonight and I'm gonna continue tomorrow.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Orange is also one of the most difficult colours. Especially over a black basecoat, you're gunna need like 3-6 coats to get good coverage with most oranges.
Well it depends. You might want to try a red base, those colors cover a little better. As you go lighter from orange to yellow the paints get more transparent, just by their nature. So if you have to start from black primer, try red then orange. It saves you from having to do a bunch of layers of orange for similar coverage. The fewer layers you do the less you have to worry about your model getting lumpy from too many coats.
Whenever I expect problems with coverage, I always start with a basecoat that's closer to the colour first, keeping it a close to neutral if I can. So for something like orange I would start with a medium/light brown basecoat. So instead of needing 3-4 thin coats to get started, it might be closer to 2 (one of each colour)
I do this for metalics a lot too. A warm brown under gold, a grey basecoat under silver.
GoodKingJayIIIThey wanna get mygold on the ceilingRegistered Userregular
I recently bought Total Warhammer 2 and of course I fell down the rabbit hole of looking at cool miniatures and thinking maybe I would try my hand at painting some again. I've stopped and started mini painting so many times, I can't do it again. But these things are so cool.
The fact that Age of Sigmar lore is confusing and weird as hell is helping me keep some distance. A lot of the new miniatures are really cool, but some of the AoS hews a little too close to 40K for my liking.
Must resist... but all the "Start Collecting!" box sets seem like great value!
I recently bought Total Warhammer 2 and of course I fell down the rabbit hole of looking at cool miniatures and thinking maybe I would try my hand at painting some again. I've stopped and started mini painting so many times, I can't do it again. But these things are so cool.
The fact that Age of Sigmar lore is confusing and weird as hell is helping me keep some distance. A lot of the new miniatures are really cool, but some of the AoS hews a little too close to 40K for my liking.
Must resist... but all the "Start Collecting!" box sets seem like great value!
Age of Sigmar is getting it’s 2nd edition next month so you could be getting in on the ground floor with everyone else...
Just saying
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Alright, I'll go ahead and give different base coats a try.
This is the end result I want but black and orange instead of silver and orange. Found this image on Google while I was searching for paint schemes. I plan on doing a portion of the army orange this way and then another part blue or green, maybe red for the wraiths.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
edited May 2018
A different, worse colour
Putting texture paste on bases and doing a wash on it has got to be the most efficient ratio of effort to satisfaction
TIFunkalicious on
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GoodKingJayIIIThey wanna get mygold on the ceilingRegistered Userregular
I recently bought Total Warhammer 2 and of course I fell down the rabbit hole of looking at cool miniatures and thinking maybe I would try my hand at painting some again. I've stopped and started mini painting so many times, I can't do it again. But these things are so cool.
The fact that Age of Sigmar lore is confusing and weird as hell is helping me keep some distance. A lot of the new miniatures are really cool, but some of the AoS hews a little too close to 40K for my liking.
Must resist... but all the "Start Collecting!" box sets seem like great value!
Age of Sigmar is getting it’s 2nd edition next month so you could be getting in on the ground floor with everyone else...
Just saying
I saw that! But I also look at the Stormcast Eternals and I’m like “wut are space marines doin in my fantasy?”
Posts
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I still kind of feel ripped off by gang war 2
I don't blame you, but GW3 is so much better. Just generally a significantly bigger book, but also oodles of fun new stuff you'll want to buy for your gang and a whole bunch of new scenarios.
It's the first book from the new team who are looking after Necromunda going forward now that the original writer has moved on.
Looks good, you should drill the bolter barrel though.
I’m also building some deathwatch vets and it’s a nice kit except there’s only two left arms that aren’t holding power weapons, so if you want just a squad of bolter dudes your boned.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
However, the throne needs more skulls.
Please tell me the one with the hand is number 5... Like holding up five fingers number 5
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yeah, I decided that my plan is to build out one five-man team with a melee focus, one five-man team with a bunch of frag cannons, and put both of those in a corvus. For shooty dudes I'll be more relying on primaris.
One thing to keep in mind is that the two left arms not holding power weapons are holding the clip that is missing from the stalker bolter, if you're neurotic about that kind of stuff like me.
I basically bought them for the bitz, I just built all the shotgun and frag cannon guys, thought I’ll probably just use the frag guys.
For a Melee loadout it’s worth considering that you can exchange the Boltguns for any two options from the list so you can give everyone double chainswords.
I know I want frag cannons in one squad. I'll probably have two squads of vets, one melee and one firepower. So three squads in total. I think you have to have a base of 5 Primaris or 5 vets before you can add more, but I'd like to add some other stuff.
I have a ten man Primaris box, an upgrade sprue, the Deathwatch: Overkill figures and I'm getting a Start Collecting box on Friday.
I just can't wrap my head around all the options in this codex. It doesn't help that I may have given myself a concussion the week I bought the codex.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Finish can vary pretty wildly between ranges (and in the case of Vallejo, within ranges). Though with Vallejo I've noticed that a lot of the time when the paint dries a little (or very) shiny then it hasn't been mixed well enough.
The only ranges I know that are guaranteed to have matte finishes across the board are Reaper and Scale75. All others are satin - glossy.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Edit: can I even put isopropyl alcohol and acetone into an ultrasonic cleaner?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
"Damnit Carl, point that thing DOWNRANGE!"
From these instructions it looks like can put iso in an ultrasonic cleaner, but you need an "explosion proof" one.
Sounds like something I'd skip lol
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Damn, I really wanna get this paint stripping done quick but a ultrasonic cleaner is just not sounding like an option. Guess I'll just go buy some jars and do it the slow way.
Edit: after a few days of them sitting around the texture doesn't feel too bad anymore. Definitely doesn't feel the same as before and I still like how the color of the paint came out. Maybe I'll just keep them as is and no worry about it. The clumping isn't the worst and I can smooth that down and use a brush to paint over or try to paint some battle damage maybe.
No, I am gonna clean them. There are some that the paint is just too thick. It will good practice.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Alcohol in general has flammeable vapors - you have high concentrations of it or put it in something that is going to generate more vapors, and it's even more of ignition hazard.
'Explosion proof' means that the motor and other potentially sparking, ignition heat hazards are atmospherically sealed to not ignite ambient vapors.
Regardless, I can't see any benefit to an ultra sonic cleaner in this case.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I literally just proved this false yesterday.
Cleaning the Immortals off tonight and I'm gonna continue tomorrow.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I do this for metalics a lot too. A warm brown under gold, a grey basecoat under silver.
The fact that Age of Sigmar lore is confusing and weird as hell is helping me keep some distance. A lot of the new miniatures are really cool, but some of the AoS hews a little too close to 40K for my liking.
Must resist... but all the "Start Collecting!" box sets seem like great value!
Age of Sigmar is getting it’s 2nd edition next month so you could be getting in on the ground floor with everyone else...
Just saying
This is the end result I want but black and orange instead of silver and orange. Found this image on Google while I was searching for paint schemes. I plan on doing a portion of the army orange this way and then another part blue or green, maybe red for the wraiths.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I saw that! But I also look at the Stormcast Eternals and I’m like “wut are space marines doin in my fantasy?”
(A lot of the stormcast minis look sweet).