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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?

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Posts

  • TIFunkaliciousTIFunkalicious Kicking back in NebraskaRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Once I get the base done this guy is a wrap. I tried wet blending screamer pink and pink horror on all of the armor using W&N's slow drying stuff. It came out a little streaky but I liked doing it. I assume thinning it out a bit more and more practice will solve that problem

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Lanlaorn wrote: »
    Anyone have tips for blood effects, both splatter from enemies you've killed and looking like you've been wounded yourself?

    I'm painting up more of my Sisters of Battle, and I have an old Celestine I had converted to have wings but never painted before the new one came out. New Celestine is great and I'm happy with my paint job there, but I'm going to paint up Old Celestine to use after Celestine gets back up from death. So I want her to look like she's been in a hell of a fight, I've splattered some blood on her wings in a Heroes of Might and Magic 5 Seraph style and it looks great, but I think I need more.

    Blood seeping out from underneath armor? Blood dripping from her sword? I'll google for some guides in a bit, but I've seen you guys post a lot of bloody miniatures, especially McGibs lol, so I thought I'd ask here.

    Again the robot has your answer
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLEuqHcOpJw
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TRBq7GVnJM

  • LanlaornLanlaorn Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Blood on the weapon I could pretty easily imagine how to do myself, and I've found a few guides on blood splatter on armor from murdering enemies, but I can't find anything on bloody wounds or blood seeping from underneath armor. Just a few massive open wound Nurgle kinda things which don't apply at all.

  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Lanlaorn wrote: »
    Anyone have tips for blood effects, both splatter from enemies you've killed and looking like you've been wounded yourself?

    I'm painting up more of my Sisters of Battle, and I have an old Celestine I had converted to have wings but never painted before the new one came out. New Celestine is great and I'm happy with my paint job there, but I'm going to paint up Old Celestine to use after Celestine gets back up from death. So I want her to look like she's been in a hell of a fight, I've splattered some blood on her wings in a Heroes of Might and Magic 5 Seraph style and it looks great, but I think I need more.

    Blood seeping out from underneath armor? Blood dripping from her sword? I'll google for some guides in a bit, but I've seen you guys post a lot of bloody miniatures, especially McGibs lol, so I thought I'd ask here.

    Since I have so much blood on my dudes, I don't really do anything fancy, or uh... subtle. Get a crappy bristly chipbrush and/or a bit of pluckfoam to do splatter. Pull the splatter with the bristles or your finger to get some motion streaks in (like on her wings, as they're moving around).
    For personal wounds, I'd honestly just use a fine detail brush and paint in rivulets of blood running down from under the armour. Treat it like any other paint.

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  • FroThulhuFroThulhu Registered User regular
    Was just reminded how amazingly good Chestnut Ink was for blood effects. Just that perfect red/brown of hour-old blood.

    But yeah, you could probably just do a super-thin line of thinned red. I can't really think of how else that would be done, actually.

  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Purple
    blood for the blood god

    the technical paint, as well as the general life motto

    My Warhammer stuff online: Youtube Twitter Insta
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Chestnut ink was THE shade for cockroach nids. Matched their glossy brown shell perfectly. You’d need to get their new coat d’arms pots though, the hell if I’m using endangered pots of chestnut for anything but the most important of shades.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • NiklasNiklas SwedenRegistered User regular
    Purple
    So I gave one of the push-fit Death Guard a shot. Damn, these new miniatures are so detailed and fun to paint! It came out a bit more sloppy than I had hoped, but it looks really good from a distance :biggrin:

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  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited May 2018
    I've been playing a lot of Shadespire.

    Ironskull's Boyz Gallery

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    Magore's Fiends Gallery
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    Sharp101 on
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Dayspring wrote: »
    blood for the blood god

    the technical paint, as well as the general life motto

    93eda858k0qt.jpg

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    So the pewter Necron Immortal can almost completely clean. I don't think I'll soak it longer, should be good. The plastic Immortals are coming clean but I'm a little unsure, they are either stained by the black primer or just not completely off so I put them back in. The Necron Warriors I painted 10 years ago are pretty much the same though it does look like the primer is still sticking pretty well so I put them back in.

    The Infinity pewter stuff looks almost brand new. Letting them soak again for a few hours after scrubbing.

    I wish I had a more efficient way to do this. I gotta clean off 66 more Necron Warriors plus some other models.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    please tell me that's official GW art...

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    McGibs wrote: »
    please tell me that's official GW art...

    it is

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Filled a shoe box sized plastic container with isopropyl alcohol and put my plastic Necrons in there. Gonna clean them all up real good.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    I had some necrons I’d gotten from a trade once that were so caked with lumpy enamel paint they were basically unstrippable. I ended up coating them in slime and basing material and making them swamp crons.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • FroThulhuFroThulhu Registered User regular
    You all...

    I don't think the robot actually uses GW brushes.

    These things... kinda suck. Expensively.

    Actually! The medium layer is pretty ok, but it gets this weird dangly bit at the tip that messes up finer line strokes.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    I had some necrons I’d gotten from a trade once that were so caked with lumpy enamel paint they were basically unstrippable. I ended up coating them in slime and basing material and making them swamp crons.

    The ones I painted years ago should come clean eventually. I'm hoping the ones I bought that were already painted come clean. They were painted by a co owner of an LGS that I used to go to and he used citadel stuff so it will hopefully be fine.

    The real trick is figuring out how to clean off the monoliths.

    The pool
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    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    edited May 2018
    A different, worse colour
    Stripping plastic models is a colossal pain in the ass (especially if they are spindly little bastards with lots of crevasses). It definitely affects the value proposition when it comes to buying/trading for used models.

    Stripping metal is ezpz. You can basically throw it in whatever the strongest chemical you can get at the store is and then just go to town with a toothbrush and not have to worry about damaging the metal.

    SmokeStacks on
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Stripping plastic models is a colossal pain in the ass (especially if they are spindly little bastards with lots of crevasses). It definitely affects the value proposition when it comes to buying/trading for used models.

    Stripping metal is ezpz. You can basically throw it in whatever the strongest chemical you can get at the store is and then just go to town with a toothbrush and not have to worry about damaging the metal.

    Yea, my Infinity stuff looks almost brand new after leaving it in acetone.

    This Immortal came out pretty well, I painted this like 8 or 9 years ago.

    li8Mpp4.jpg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    That reminds me, I've got some old metal Ork Deff Dreads and Killa Kans that have been sitting in an old pickle jar filled with Simple Green on my bathroom counter since... oh lord.

  • NorgothNorgoth cardiffRegistered User regular
    Purple
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    You all...

    I don't think the robot actually uses GW brushes.

    These things... kinda suck. Expensively.

    Actually! The medium layer is pretty ok, but it gets this weird dangly bit at the tip that messes up finer line strokes.

    GW brushes are ok, but they are very much designed for the GW painting system tm. They want you to but one of everything, including the artisan stuff.

    Truth be told just buy yourself like, a size 1,00 and 000 Windsor newton sevens and a pot of masters brush cleaner. More expensive than GW brushes but will last so much longer you’ll spend a lot less in the long run. Those three sizes will let you paint basically anything, and the brush quality is noticeably higher.

  • ElaroElaro Apologetic Registered User regular
    Purple
    Norgoth wrote: »
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    You all...

    I don't think the robot actually uses GW brushes.

    These things... kinda suck. Expensively.

    Actually! The medium layer is pretty ok, but it gets this weird dangly bit at the tip that messes up finer line strokes.

    GW brushes are ok, but they are very much designed for the GW painting system tm. They want you to but one of everything, including the artisan stuff.

    Truth be told just buy yourself like, a size 1,00 and 000 Windsor newton sevens and a pot of masters brush cleaner. More expensive than GW brushes but will last so much longer you’ll spend a lot less in the long run. Those three sizes will let you paint basically anything, and the brush quality is noticeably higher.

    I thought having a 2 and 0 brush was okay for "basically anything"? I mean, yeah I've been having difficulty with my 0 brush, but I assumed that was because I was being sloppy.

    I mean, I believe you, it's just that 5 months ago somebody on these forums was saying "2 and 0 is enough"! So somebody gifted me those specific brushes, and now you're telling me they've got it all wrong? It's a bummer.

    Children's rights are human rights.
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Elaro wrote: »
    Norgoth wrote: »
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    You all...

    I don't think the robot actually uses GW brushes.

    These things... kinda suck. Expensively.

    Actually! The medium layer is pretty ok, but it gets this weird dangly bit at the tip that messes up finer line strokes.

    GW brushes are ok, but they are very much designed for the GW painting system tm. They want you to but one of everything, including the artisan stuff.

    Truth be told just buy yourself like, a size 1,00 and 000 Windsor newton sevens and a pot of masters brush cleaner. More expensive than GW brushes but will last so much longer you’ll spend a lot less in the long run. Those three sizes will let you paint basically anything, and the brush quality is noticeably higher.

    I thought having a 2 and 0 brush was okay for "basically anything"? I mean, yeah I've been having difficulty with my 0 brush, but I assumed that was because I was being sloppy.

    I mean, I believe you, it's just that 5 months ago somebody on these forums was saying "2 and 0 is enough"! So somebody gifted me those specific brushes, and now you're telling me they've got it all wrong? It's a bummer.

    I mean, personal preferences also play a huge part in this and it also depends on your painting style and what the miniatures are for, gaming or exhibition or something in between.

  • NorgothNorgoth cardiffRegistered User regular
    Purple
    honovere wrote: »
    Elaro wrote: »
    Norgoth wrote: »
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    You all...

    I don't think the robot actually uses GW brushes.

    These things... kinda suck. Expensively.

    Actually! The medium layer is pretty ok, but it gets this weird dangly bit at the tip that messes up finer line strokes.

    GW brushes are ok, but they are very much designed for the GW painting system tm. They want you to but one of everything, including the artisan stuff.

    Truth be told just buy yourself like, a size 1,00 and 000 Windsor newton sevens and a pot of masters brush cleaner. More expensive than GW brushes but will last so much longer you’ll spend a lot less in the long run. Those three sizes will let you paint basically anything, and the brush quality is noticeably higher.

    I thought having a 2 and 0 brush was okay for "basically anything"? I mean, yeah I've been having difficulty with my 0 brush, but I assumed that was because I was being sloppy.

    I mean, I believe you, it's just that 5 months ago somebody on these forums was saying "2 and 0 is enough"! So somebody gifted me those specific brushes, and now you're telling me they've got it all wrong? It's a bummer.

    I mean, personal preferences also play a huge part in this and it also depends on your painting style and what the miniatures are for, gaming or exhibition or something in between.

    Yeah to be clear 1,00 and 000 is my personal recommendation. A 2 and 0 might be perfectly fine for some people.

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    It's entirely personal preference, like so many things in the hobby. I find the 1 is the workhorse, but that's probably because I sort of ruined mine so I use it more generally now. Still get lots of mileage from my 2 and 0. When I started getting back into painting I was using a 1 for most things, but had a 00 and 000. I found I almost never used them because there were rarely things that small I needed to paint, and the brushes had a good habit of not really picking up enough paint for me anyway. I feel like it's rare for those to be exactly what you need, and a 0 should see you through damn near anything "detail".
    Don't second guess what you've got. Brushes are, like literally all the shit we use in this hobby, another tool. You'll learn what works for you, and a 2 and 0 are far from a bad starting point.

  • LanlaornLanlaorn Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I use a 0 for everything, with a brush that holds a good point I don't feel the need for anything smaller.

  • NiklasNiklas SwedenRegistered User regular
    Purple
    I painted a Slaughterpriest! This dude's massive. Blood for the Blood God!

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  • ArthilArthil Registered User regular
    That space marine is fucked!

    PSN: Honishimo Steam UPlay: Arthil
  • ToothyToothy Registered User regular
    I thought the first pic was somehow a Kratos miniature.

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    I don’t if the slaughterpriest’s proportions are too long or the space marine’s are too short (or a combination) but that is one freakishly lanky dude.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Forget lanky ... his head is bigger than the marine's torso. <_<

  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    I'm jealous of yours guys shading and highlighting on every figure. I'm just happy to get base colors down.

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  • FroThulhuFroThulhu Registered User regular
    Speaking of which...

    I'm losing my patience with painting gaunts. Strongly considering just getting the final basics done on this unit, then moving on.

    How many of you all put mans on the table unfinished? Do you get any guff for unfinished paint jobs?

  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I'll put unpainted models on the table against friends for things I want to test out, or am unpainted to wait for everything to be finished. But they almost always at least have a primer coat.

    website_header.jpg
  • LanlaornLanlaorn Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I can never play with unpainted models, I feel like I'd be embarrassing myself somehow. But for mass Tyranid stuff I hear you can get good looking stuff with just loosely slapping a couple base coats on and then literally dipping the entire model in certain washes.

  • DraevenDraeven Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Niklas wrote: »
    So I gave one of the push-fit Death Guard a shot. Damn, these new miniatures are so detailed and fun to paint! It came out a bit more sloppy than I had hoped, but it looks really good from a distance :biggrin:

    HIQWVE8.jpg

    Sloppy nurgle paint jobs are ok. Cause 9 time out of 10 it looks like it was meant to be that way.

    Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I can.... but I remember a stores rather religious policy of having your minis a minimum of three colors {they would really check} before you could play with them
    So you would get these hastily painted armies that slowly updated over the year.


    I back when I really painted I would do whole squads or more with base coats and then go back with highlights [I feel stupid as now I understand what people ment by mishighlighting the mini because of the robot}
    It would take me months since I was doing in on weekends and my freetime

  • MazzyxMazzyx Comedy Gold Registered User regular
    Purple
    No one cares in my group. I don't like putting down unprimed models. I am a slow painter so it takes me a while to get through stuff like cultist.

    But again my club doesn't care if you proxy to test things before you buy stuff and such.

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  • FroThulhuFroThulhu Registered User regular
    Yeah, my FLGS had the three-color rule for any tournaments, but I think that's been retracted in the years since.

    Mostly I just worry about my models looking crap.

    I get jittery if my models aren't at least primed, but Tyranids are... somehow more fiddly to paint than my IG or undead back in the day. Heck, it was easier just with my nids, back when I had a dark purple/blue/bone scheme. Oroboris is significantly more involved, and I think I'll be forgoing most of the fleshy pink details on everything other than large monsters.

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    My nids are a white basecoat, a gloss brown wash and a red ink for the fleshy bits. The easiest color scheme I could think of for assembly line mass producing, and it’s still a bear to get these things done.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
This discussion has been closed.