StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
So that Night Scythe I linked a few posts up. I'm having a lot of trouble finding a good tutorial on how to properly pain the color so it goes from the light color to the dark in a good looking way.
I'm guessing all I do is paint up to a certain point with the lightest color and and then above and partially onto it the next color and then darker as I go further up but if possible I'd like to check out a tutorial. Anyone happen to know of one?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited June 2018
A different, worse colour
I would've thought the way to do it would be to paint the whole area in the darkest color first, then layer on successively lighter tones on decreasing amounts of surface? That way it should be a lot easier to have each brighter/more yellow-y layer fade/scatter over the next darker/more orange layer to create a continuous gradient.
I would've thought the way to do it would be to paint the whole area in the darkest color first, then layer on successively lighter tones on decreasing amounts of surface? That way it should be a lot easier to have each brighter/more yellow-y layer fade/scatter over the next darker/more orange layer to create a continuous gradient.
That does sound a lot easier and I am going to go with that, thank you.
I have a tendency to make things more complicated than they need to be.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited June 2018
A different, worse colour
Well, you might want to double-check that (or just wait a bit for someone else to chime in yay or nay). I've read/watched a lot of "how to paint" WHFB/WH40K stuff, but my practical experience with minis is very limited (mostly just helping friends & family at various times).
Man, @Matrias, that Stormwolf and those tanks are just so totally barely acceptable now. :P
More seriously, I really love the gold-trim-on-grey thing you've got going there.
thank you for the kind words!
i say 'acceptable' because the stormfang model has some annoying build issues from my orginal assembly - you can't tell they're there without looking hard but i know they're there.
I had a question about your wolves
Did you do the Great Company of the Harald Deathwolf why?
My brother is doing What was Logan's company as his but is kind of annoyed by the lack of shoulders he can get [I will swear up and down I thought you could get them and the dancing wolf ones in metal long ago}
i do Harald's Great Company, yeah. The symbol is badass - it's called the 'ravening maw' and it's a wolf eating a star! plus I like using Thunderwolves and love Harald's model.
Unfortunately, I have to free hand the company badge now. I don't mind, but their used to be Forgeworld decal sheet that had all the Great Company badges. It had Logan's too, in the right colour!
They do Logans decal on the current sheet but they're the wrong colour. Black instead of white. Still, better than nothing, right? White field, black wolf and star still looks good. Your brother might also consider getting some shapeways shoulder pads printed, if he doesn't mind the quality.
It was the thing I am leary of is printing waterslides
I know you can get the paper and it works in laser printers? {it's been sometime since I last looked so}
I wanted to do the double helix snake of Siam Hann
I remember vaguely it's not so great printing white
As it was the same problem my brother had doing Logar's old company as it's white too
I think he has the forgeworld sheet from back then but I just don't know as it's like a treasure hunt finding all the 40k stuff in the house and remembering where we left off
You can't print white yourself, because you (probably) don't have a printer that has white ink. There are a bunch of smale scale operation on the web that print custom decals and also print white. Their website should have instruction on how to set up the printing files.
Printing a white base for the decal also helps with coloured decals as often those can turn out translucent and the white base below the colour helps with that.
no I heard back then they didn't work well printing white
Just I need to find a better larger pic of the double snake to be useable
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited June 2018
Purple
Having used clear decal paper it really only works well with black as any other color is going to look great on the sheet but be semi-transparent on the mini (if you're applying it to a white or very light area it's a non-issue).
You can use white decal paper. You just need to be very precise when cutting and even then it's really only good for certain designs.
I believe they do make laser decal paper and I think you can skip the gloss spray step too - you need to coat inkjet decal paper in gloss spray and allow it to cure before you soak lest you risk the ink running. Fused toner should be able to withstand soaking.
EDIT: Another option is to use clear decal paper, prime the area to apply it white, apply it, then paint around the decal. If I ever run out of my forge world Raven Guard transfers that's the route I'd go.
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Further progress:
Not sure what to do next. I think I can find a suitable scroll for the blade but I was also thinking of adding more mechanical bling. What do you all think?
So after lurking in these threads for years, I've finally decided to try painting something myself! I got one of those Reaper Learn-to-paint kits for my birthday, and after a couple weeks of work, I've finally got my first three models done.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Primed one of my night scythes. Maybe have gone a little too heavy near the pilot and front area. It looks a little off. It doesn't look awful just kind of raised but with the airbrush it shouldn't matter on the front part of the model. Not really sure how the pilot will come out but not a lot of detail is lost.
Kind of worried about painting. I don't want to mess up. I plan on using averland sunset first with the air brush and then I'll use a brush to shade on the casandora yellow and then lower down I'm gonna use flash gitz yellow. Hopefully this works because I really don't want to clean off a night scythe in isopropyl alcohol.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If this is your first time trying to use GW paints through the airbrush I’d suggest testing it on something else first before popping a coat on the vehicle. Get some sprue or a necron vehicle bit that wasn’t needed for the kit and use it to test your paint scheme.
I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+14
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
If this is your first time trying to use GW paints through the airbrush I’d suggest testing it on something else first before popping a coat on the vehicle. Get some sprue or a necron vehicle bit that wasn’t needed for the kit and use it to test your paint scheme.
I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.
I'll have to try to find something large enough to practice on. I don't feel like using the sprue will help much. I wish I cared less about my rhinos I have for my Space Wolves.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
If this is your first time trying to use GW paints through the airbrush I’d suggest testing it on something else first before popping a coat on the vehicle. Get some sprue or a necron vehicle bit that wasn’t needed for the kit and use it to test your paint scheme.
I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.
I'll have to try to find something large enough to practice on. I don't feel like using the sprue will help much. I wish I cared less about my rhinos I have for my Space Wolves.
There's a part of me that wonders how much it'd cost companies that make plastic kits like these to just add a small (like 1"x3") featureless plate to one of the sprues in any given kit for people to test things on.
There's definitely some overlap there. Keep in mind though the the new blood bowl miniatures are huge. Like a head taller than a lot of current plastics.
I also thought about giving them all Harlequin facemasks but the only converted a few hairstyles with Esher and drukhari parts. And now I lost the collection of bits I put together to try out on the BB models. Including all the parts for Moranion I got from eBay.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Would using an electric toothbrush speed up the cleaning process? I have an old one that only works when it is on the charger so I don't use it anymore.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited June 2018
Purple
Wrong thread
valhalla130 on
0
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.
This is gonna be tough.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.
This is gonna be tough.
I would recommend doing the gradient in grayscale, then glazing over the top with yellow. Yellow is a pig of a colour to get good coverage with in general. It start by blocking out the gradient working from darkest to lightest, then once youve got a good kooking gradient, start applying the yellow from the white backwards.
That is assuming youre doing a black to yellow gradient, which is hard.
In the meantime I have become old guys. Im pai ting historicals now. Im doing some Vikings for SAGA and enjoying the break from space mans.
Asher on
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
+4
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.
This is gonna be tough.
I would recommend doing the gradient in grayscale, then glazing over the top with yellow. Yellow is a pig of a colour to get good coverage with in general. It start by blocking out the gradient working from darkest to lightest, then once youve got a good kooking gradient, start applying the yellow from the white backwards.
That is assuming youre doing a black to yellow gradient, which is hard.
In the meantime I have become old guys. Im pai ting historicals now. Im doing some Vikings for SAGA and enjoying the break from space mans.
I'll look up some videos and give that a try.
I'm starting to get really frustrated with cleaning my Necrons. Had them in isopropyl alcohol for almost a week and scrubbed them and then a week in simple green and I'm still having trouble getting paint and primer off. If I scratch them it comes off but i can't scratch the paint off of each.
I feel like I need to scrub them off with something rougher.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited June 2018
Purple
Hey thread.
If I wanted a lower-cost alternative to GW Martian Ironcrust technical paint, what should I Iook for?
Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.
This is gonna be tough.
The trick to proper blending is that you don’t just lay down one color then switch to the next. You should have 3 dropper bottles of paint; your base dark yellow, your lighter yellow, and then a pot that’s a 1:1 mix of both. You do the whole thing in the dark coat, then when it dries you do the next half in the mix, and lastly the actual lighter color on the end.
Posts
I'm guessing all I do is paint up to a certain point with the lightest color and and then above and partially onto it the next color and then darker as I go further up but if possible I'd like to check out a tutorial. Anyone happen to know of one?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
That does sound a lot easier and I am going to go with that, thank you.
I have a tendency to make things more complicated than they need to be.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
i do Harald's Great Company, yeah. The symbol is badass - it's called the 'ravening maw' and it's a wolf eating a star! plus I like using Thunderwolves and love Harald's model.
Unfortunately, I have to free hand the company badge now. I don't mind, but their used to be Forgeworld decal sheet that had all the Great Company badges. It had Logan's too, in the right colour!
They do Logans decal on the current sheet but they're the wrong colour. Black instead of white. Still, better than nothing, right? White field, black wolf and star still looks good. Your brother might also consider getting some shapeways shoulder pads printed, if he doesn't mind the quality.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/XRRFG37AW/wolf-rampant-terminator-right-shoulder-x10?optionId=58767444
I know you can get the paper and it works in laser printers? {it's been sometime since I last looked so}
I wanted to do the double helix snake of Siam Hann
I remember vaguely it's not so great printing white
As it was the same problem my brother had doing Logar's old company as it's white too
I think he has the forgeworld sheet from back then but I just don't know as it's like a treasure hunt finding all the 40k stuff in the house and remembering where we left off
Printing a white base for the decal also helps with coloured decals as often those can turn out translucent and the white base below the colour helps with that.
Just I need to find a better larger pic of the double snake to be useable
You can use white decal paper. You just need to be very precise when cutting and even then it's really only good for certain designs.
I believe they do make laser decal paper and I think you can skip the gloss spray step too - you need to coat inkjet decal paper in gloss spray and allow it to cure before you soak lest you risk the ink running. Fused toner should be able to withstand soaking.
EDIT: Another option is to use clear decal paper, prime the area to apply it white, apply it, then paint around the decal. If I ever run out of my forge world Raven Guard transfers that's the route I'd go.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Not sure what to do next. I think I can find a suitable scroll for the blade but I was also thinking of adding more mechanical bling. What do you all think?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Meh.
those are looking fantastic for a first attempt
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Kind of worried about painting. I don't want to mess up. I plan on using averland sunset first with the air brush and then I'll use a brush to shade on the casandora yellow and then lower down I'm gonna use flash gitz yellow. Hopefully this works because I really don't want to clean off a night scythe in isopropyl alcohol.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.
I'll have to try to find something large enough to practice on. I don't feel like using the sprue will help much. I wish I cared less about my rhinos I have for my Space Wolves.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
There's a part of me that wonders how much it'd cost companies that make plastic kits like these to just add a small (like 1"x3") featureless plate to one of the sprues in any given kit for people to test things on.
I've finished painting my copy of War of the Ring!
You can view the rest of the photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/kUYQZs2 There's LOTS so I don't want to spam the thread.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
but yeah, them feet huge
EDIT: Also, human feet ARE larger than the head. Longer, to be specific. The head is about 1/7,5 of the body, while the foot is typically 1/6.
Based on your sentence structure, you are "and".
i enjoyed this post but i feel liking or awesomeness it would only encourage him
Final bling; the triangle is an imperial eagle (below) and is mirrored on the other side of the blade. Now to build the dude to wield it…
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Nerf or nothing.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I also thought about giving them all Harlequin facemasks but the only converted a few hairstyles with Esher and drukhari parts. And now I lost the collection of bits I put together to try out on the BB models. Including all the parts for Moranion I got from eBay.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Dude, you are killing it.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
This is gonna be tough.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I would recommend doing the gradient in grayscale, then glazing over the top with yellow. Yellow is a pig of a colour to get good coverage with in general. It start by blocking out the gradient working from darkest to lightest, then once youve got a good kooking gradient, start applying the yellow from the white backwards.
That is assuming youre doing a black to yellow gradient, which is hard.
In the meantime I have become old guys. Im pai ting historicals now. Im doing some Vikings for SAGA and enjoying the break from space mans.
I'll look up some videos and give that a try.
I'm starting to get really frustrated with cleaning my Necrons. Had them in isopropyl alcohol for almost a week and scrubbed them and then a week in simple green and I'm still having trouble getting paint and primer off. If I scratch them it comes off but i can't scratch the paint off of each.
I feel like I need to scrub them off with something rougher.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If I wanted a lower-cost alternative to GW Martian Ironcrust technical paint, what should I Iook for?
Looking for a cracked earth effect.
The trick to proper blending is that you don’t just lay down one color then switch to the next. You should have 3 dropper bottles of paint; your base dark yellow, your lighter yellow, and then a pot that’s a 1:1 mix of both. You do the whole thing in the dark coat, then when it dries you do the next half in the mix, and lastly the actual lighter color on the end.