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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?

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Posts

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    So that Night Scythe I linked a few posts up. I'm having a lot of trouble finding a good tutorial on how to properly pain the color so it goes from the light color to the dark in a good looking way.

    I'm guessing all I do is paint up to a certain point with the lightest color and and then above and partially onto it the next color and then darker as I go further up but if possible I'd like to check out a tutorial. Anyone happen to know of one?

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited June 12
    I would've thought the way to do it would be to paint the whole area in the darkest color first, then layer on successively lighter tones on decreasing amounts of surface? That way it should be a lot easier to have each brighter/more yellow-y layer fade/scatter over the next darker/more orange layer to create a continuous gradient.

    H3Knuckles on
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    camo_sig2-400.png
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    H3Knuckles wrote: »
    I would've thought the way to do it would be to paint the whole area in the darkest color first, then layer on successively lighter tones on decreasing amounts of surface? That way it should be a lot easier to have each brighter/more yellow-y layer fade/scatter over the next darker/more orange layer to create a continuous gradient.

    That does sound a lot easier and I am going to go with that, thank you.

    I have a tendency to make things more complicated than they need to be.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited June 12
    Well, you might want to double-check that (or just wait a bit for someone else to chime in yay or nay). I've read/watched a lot of "how to paint" WHFB/WH40K stuff, but my practical experience with minis is very limited (mostly just helping friends & family at various times).

    H3Knuckles on
    If you're curious about my icon; it's an update of the early Lego Castle theme's "Black Falcons" faction.
    camo_sig2-400.png
  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    @Stragint please see above

    If you're curious about my icon; it's an update of the early Lego Castle theme's "Black Falcons" faction.
    camo_sig2-400.png
  • MatriasMatrias Registered User regular
    edited June 12
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Matrias wrote: »
    Elvenshae wrote: »
    Man, @Matrias, that Stormwolf and those tanks are just so totally barely acceptable now. :P

    More seriously, I really love the gold-trim-on-grey thing you've got going there.
    thank you for the kind words!

    i say 'acceptable' because the stormfang model has some annoying build issues from my orginal assembly - you can't tell they're there without looking hard but i know they're there.

    I had a question about your wolves
    Did you do the Great Company of the Harald Deathwolf why?
    My brother is doing What was Logan's company as his but is kind of annoyed by the lack of shoulders he can get [I will swear up and down I thought you could get them and the dancing wolf ones in metal long ago}

    i do Harald's Great Company, yeah. The symbol is badass - it's called the 'ravening maw' and it's a wolf eating a star! plus I like using Thunderwolves and love Harald's model.

    Unfortunately, I have to free hand the company badge now. I don't mind, but their used to be Forgeworld decal sheet that had all the Great Company badges. It had Logan's too, in the right colour!

    They do Logans decal on the current sheet but they're the wrong colour. Black instead of white. Still, better than nothing, right? White field, black wolf and star still looks good. Your brother might also consider getting some shapeways shoulder pads printed, if he doesn't mind the quality.

    https://www.shapeways.com/product/XRRFG37AW/wolf-rampant-terminator-right-shoulder-x10?optionId=58767444

    Matrias on
    3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    It was the thing I am leary of is printing waterslides
    I know you can get the paper and it works in laser printers? {it's been sometime since I last looked so}
    I wanted to do the double helix snake of Siam Hann
    czfaf3d3jcdd.png

    I remember vaguely it's not so great printing white
    As it was the same problem my brother had doing Logar's old company as it's white too
    lo88cbbovqka.png

    I think he has the forgeworld sheet from back then but I just don't know as it's like a treasure hunt finding all the 40k stuff in the house and remembering where we left off

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    You can't print white yourself, because you (probably) don't have a printer that has white ink. There are a bunch of smale scale operation on the web that print custom decals and also print white. Their website should have instruction on how to set up the printing files.

    Printing a white base for the decal also helps with coloured decals as often those can turn out translucent and the white base below the colour helps with that.

  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    no I heard back then they didn't work well printing white
    Just I need to find a better larger pic of the double snake to be useable

  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    edited June 12
    Purple
    Having used clear decal paper it really only works well with black as any other color is going to look great on the sheet but be semi-transparent on the mini (if you're applying it to a white or very light area it's a non-issue).

    You can use white decal paper. You just need to be very precise when cutting and even then it's really only good for certain designs.

    I believe they do make laser decal paper and I think you can skip the gloss spray step too - you need to coat inkjet decal paper in gloss spray and allow it to cure before you soak lest you risk the ink running. Fused toner should be able to withstand soaking.

    EDIT: Another option is to use clear decal paper, prime the area to apply it white, apply it, then paint around the decal. If I ever run out of my forge world Raven Guard transfers that's the route I'd go.

    Dr_Keenbean on
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  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Further progress:
    j7oppui1m634.jpeg
    Not sure what to do next. I think I can find a suitable scroll for the blade but I was also thinking of adding more mechanical bling. What do you all think?

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
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  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    That looks awesome, @Mr_Rose; I'm always a fan of more gribbly bits.

    omgbfz5lzi1s.png
    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
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  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Purple
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    Holy geezer

    I'm almost done with my first brood of hormagaunts

    I am whatever sits between proud and disappointed.

    Meh.

    FroThulhu
  • VeagleVeagle Registered User regular
    So after lurking in these threads for years, I've finally decided to try painting something myself! I got one of those Reaper Learn-to-paint kits for my birthday, and after a couple weeks of work, I've finally got my first three models done.
    42714011162_f968b3a14b_c.jpg
    40952635730_05e444648e_c.jpg
    42714010872_56a7eafede_c.jpg
    40952635340_014cdc2528_c.jpg
    42714010382_0a85fdcc87_c.jpg
    40952634960_5b758d9b15_c.jpg

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  • VikingViking Registered User regular
    Purple
    Always great to see new blood in the hobby.
    those are looking fantastic for a first attempt

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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Primed one of my night scythes. Maybe have gone a little too heavy near the pilot and front area. It looks a little off. It doesn't look awful just kind of raised but with the airbrush it shouldn't matter on the front part of the model. Not really sure how the pilot will come out but not a lot of detail is lost.

    Kind of worried about painting. I don't want to mess up. I plan on using averland sunset first with the air brush and then I'll use a brush to shade on the casandora yellow and then lower down I'm gonna use flash gitz yellow. Hopefully this works because I really don't want to clean off a night scythe in isopropyl alcohol.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    If this is your first time trying to use GW paints through the airbrush I’d suggest testing it on something else first before popping a coat on the vehicle. Get some sprue or a necron vehicle bit that wasn’t needed for the kit and use it to test your paint scheme.

    I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.

    ZEyZ4Fb.jpg

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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    If this is your first time trying to use GW paints through the airbrush I’d suggest testing it on something else first before popping a coat on the vehicle. Get some sprue or a necron vehicle bit that wasn’t needed for the kit and use it to test your paint scheme.
    I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.

    ZEyZ4Fb.jpg

    I'll have to try to find something large enough to practice on. I don't feel like using the sprue will help much. I wish I cared less about my rhinos I have for my Space Wolves.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited June 13
    Stragint wrote: »
    Badablack wrote: »
    If this is your first time trying to use GW paints through the airbrush I’d suggest testing it on something else first before popping a coat on the vehicle. Get some sprue or a necron vehicle bit that wasn’t needed for the kit and use it to test your paint scheme.
    I finished a Deathwatch guy! It’s a pretty easy scheme that should be easy to replicate, with plenty of room for extra stuff on all their shoulders and hysterical religious doodads.

    ZEyZ4Fb.jpg

    I'll have to try to find something large enough to practice on. I don't feel like using the sprue will help much. I wish I cared less about my rhinos I have for my Space Wolves.

    There's a part of me that wonders how much it'd cost companies that make plastic kits like these to just add a small (like 1"x3") featureless plate to one of the sprues in any given kit for people to test things on.

    H3Knuckles on
    If you're curious about my icon; it's an update of the early Lego Castle theme's "Black Falcons" faction.
    camo_sig2-400.png
  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Purple
    an empty water bottle or something would probably work as a tester, or a plastic spoon, or something like that

    Khraul
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Hey guys!
    I've finished painting my copy of War of the Ring!
    tG2Dmma.jpg

    You can view the rest of the photos here: https://imgur.com/gallery/kUYQZs2 There's LOTS so I don't want to spam the thread.

    DarkewolfeDr_Keenbeanvalhalla130ElvenshaehonovereNipsExtreaminatusArcticLancerBetsuniCustom SpecialJustTeeKhraulIanatorVikingH3KnucklesDaPaladinDiannaoChong
  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Purple
    LOTR miniatures make me so unaccountably happy anytime I see painted ones. Every time.

    What is this I don't even.
    Dr_KeenbeanElvenshae
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    As a curiosity, are hobbit feet canonically as large as their heads, or is that just an aesthetic we have to accept with all their miniature forms? :P

  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    edited June 13
    To be fair, these minis are 1/72, it's hard to keep proportion and keep the models readable, I guess.

    but yeah, them feet huge

    EDIT: Also, human feet ARE larger than the head. Longer, to be specific. The head is about 1/7,5 of the body, while the foot is typically 1/6.

    Mayday on
  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    Purple
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    Holy geezer

    I'm almost done with my first brood of hormagaunts

    I am whatever sits between proud and disappointed.

    Based on your sentence structure, you are "and".

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
    DayspringElvenshaeExtreaminatusArcticLancerJustTeevalhalla130FroThulhu
  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Purple
    FroThulhu wrote: »
    Holy geezer

    I'm almost done with my first brood of hormagaunts

    I am whatever sits between proud and disappointed.

    Based on your sentence structure, you are "and".

    i enjoyed this post but i feel liking or awesomeness it would only encourage him

    Elvenshae[Expletive deleted]H3KnucklesFroThulhu
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    01t5tbiv7c7t.jpeg
    Final bling; the triangle is an imperial eagle (below) and is mirrored on the other side of the blade. Now to build the dude to wield it…011z071cgcgh.jpeg

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Just remembered I have some of those nerf guns with the clip so I'll just prime those and practice air brushing.

    Nerf or nothing.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    H3Knuckles
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Finally finished the Elf Union.

    5gq2x2aji2ih.jpg
    ydxsvrr5yczk.jpg
    as17ocjdqbta.jpg
    vc52elqokm77.jpg
    m1zjde1muw4u.jpgmbeguvhl4d5m.jpg

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  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Blood bowl elves would make good harlequins.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    There's definitely some overlap there. Keep in mind though the the new blood bowl miniatures are huge. Like a head taller than a lot of current plastics.

    I also thought about giving them all Harlequin facemasks but the only converted a few hairstyles with Esher and drukhari parts. And now I lost the collection of bits I put together to try out on the BB models. Including all the parts for Moranion I got from eBay.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Would using an electric toothbrush speed up the cleaning process? I have an old one that only works when it is on the charger so I don't use it anymore.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    edited June 14
    Purple
    Wrong thread

    valhalla130 on
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Purple
    My favorite part about that paint job is the all of it.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
    NipshonovereFroThulhuEchoElvenshae
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.

    This is gonna be tough.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • AsherAsher Registered User regular
    edited June 14
    Stragint wrote: »
    Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.

    This is gonna be tough.

    I would recommend doing the gradient in grayscale, then glazing over the top with yellow. Yellow is a pig of a colour to get good coverage with in general. It start by blocking out the gradient working from darkest to lightest, then once youve got a good kooking gradient, start applying the yellow from the white backwards.

    That is assuming youre doing a black to yellow gradient, which is hard.

    In the meantime I have become old guys. Im pai ting historicals now. Im doing some Vikings for SAGA and enjoying the break from space mans.

    Asher on
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Asher wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.

    This is gonna be tough.

    I would recommend doing the gradient in grayscale, then glazing over the top with yellow. Yellow is a pig of a colour to get good coverage with in general. It start by blocking out the gradient working from darkest to lightest, then once youve got a good kooking gradient, start applying the yellow from the white backwards.

    That is assuming youre doing a black to yellow gradient, which is hard.

    In the meantime I have become old guys. Im pai ting historicals now. Im doing some Vikings for SAGA and enjoying the break from space mans.

    I'll look up some videos and give that a try.

    I'm starting to get really frustrated with cleaning my Necrons. Had them in isopropyl alcohol for almost a week and scrubbed them and then a week in simple green and I'm still having trouble getting paint and primer off. If I scratch them it comes off but i can't scratch the paint off of each.

    I feel like I need to scrub them off with something rougher.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    edited June 14
    Purple
    Hey thread.

    If I wanted a lower-cost alternative to GW Martian Ironcrust technical paint, what should I Iook for?

    Looking for a cracked earth effect.

    Nips on
    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Testing the blending for the yellow color I want on the night scythe has made me realize that trying to blend the colors is rough. It doesn't look natural. There is a clear line that shows where the next color starts.

    This is gonna be tough.

    The trick to proper blending is that you don’t just lay down one color then switch to the next. You should have 3 dropper bottles of paint; your base dark yellow, your lighter yellow, and then a pot that’s a 1:1 mix of both. You do the whole thing in the dark coat, then when it dries you do the next half in the mix, and lastly the actual lighter color on the end.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
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