Dumb question: if I’m using a spray-on basecoat (eg caliban green), do I still need to prime my minis with black/white/grey first? Or can I just spray the green straight on them?
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Dumb question: if I’m using a spray-on basecoat (eg caliban green), do I still need to prime my minis with black/white/grey first? Or can I just spray the green straight on them?
You can spray the green right on and paint from there. I do the same thing with my Space Wolves with the Fang primer.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
the GW rattlecans are advertised as a combo primer/basecoat. and they work fairly well at that.
you do not need to prime then basecoat as the can does both.
Dumb question: if I’m using a spray-on basecoat (eg caliban green), do I still need to prime my minis with black/white/grey first? Or can I just spray the green straight on them?
Depends on how you want the final color to look. Not having the black or white basecoat underneath will affect the tone of the final color.
Dumb question: if I’m using a spray-on basecoat (eg caliban green), do I still need to prime my minis with black/white/grey first? Or can I just spray the green straight on them?
Depends on how you want the final color to look. Not having the black or white basecoat underneath will affect the tone of the final color.
I'll be aiming for a fairly dark green, something like scheme R in this picture:
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
Huh, R looks dark cyan to me. Do I need to adjust my color settings?
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited August 2018
I've come to a decision. I'm gonna paint my T'au in a normal way. I don't like painting and I don't have the patience for painting either. I just like playing the game. If I hadn't already primed them I'd just leave them unpainted and play that way.
I'm gonna wash off the 24 Necrons, should be pretty quick to do since the primer and any paint on them is fresh. I don't like the gun metal silver primer at all, it looks really bad to me. I'm probably just gonna prime them chaos black, do a base of abaddon black, some necron compound dry brush and then stormhost silver over the spots I want blue and on those I'm gonna use the soulstone blue technical paint for a slight gloss look. Only reason I want to paint them is because I really don't want to not use the orange and blue tubes I bought off of ebay.
I feel alright with this stealth suit so far.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Dumb question: if I’m using a spray-on basecoat (eg caliban green), do I still need to prime my minis with black/white/grey first? Or can I just spray the green straight on them?
Depends on how you want the final color to look. Not having the black or white basecoat underneath will affect the tone of the final color.
What's the figure to the Farseer's right in the first picture Dayspring posted? The one that looks like a biker-Eldar complete with mohawk and leather jacket?
Not sure what colors to paint the T'au Fire Warriors and Pathfinders now that I've given up on the Maliwan thing.
Also made some progress on the Stealth Battlesuit and started the other two.
What is the best way to practice painting minis? Just pick a few I'm not using and keep painting and cleaning them?
Also, what can I do for brush maintenance? Some of my fairly new brushes have strands poking out and I'm not sure what is causing it.
It sounds like your getting paint in the ferrule, the metal part that connect the bristles to the handle. Paint in there will push the bristles apart at the base when it dries causing them to split. Basically just be more careful with putting paint onto the palette
What's the figure to the Farseer's right in the first picture Dayspring posted? The one that looks like a biker-Eldar compleat with mohawk and leather jacket?
looks like Illic Nightspear with some modifications (head swap and weapon shortening)
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So I'm going to be picking up genestealer cult stuff, starting with the ones from the Killteam starter box. I've never been great at skin tones so I'm probably going to find one I like and stick with it to start with, probably one that matches well with my genestealers I already have, but armor wise I'm not sure what direction to go with.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
What's the figure to the Farseer's right in the first picture Dayspring posted? The one that looks like a biker-Eldar complete with mohawk and leather jacket?
Specifically, it's Illic Nightspear with a Harlequin fusion pistol barrel and the head from a DE Scourge. He's my Autarch with Fusion Gun and Warp Jump Generator (hidden under his jacket lol)
So I'm going to be picking up genestealer cult stuff, starting with the ones from the Killteam starter box. I've never been great at skin tones so I'm probably going to find one I like and stick with it to start with, probably one that matches well with my genestealers I already have, but armor wise I'm not sure what direction to go with.
For the GSC included in my killteam box I'm probably doing something like one of the below examples for the cloth on their outfits (from the nighthaunts book) with the cream armor panels from the instruction manual (white/sepia). Probably using the purple genestealer skin as well, seeing as warhammer TV has a demo on how to do it and it looks cool :biggrin:
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
I was discussing it with my brother, and after I mentioned that one of the reasons I liked the Genestealer cults sort of shadow over Innsmouth/Lovecraftian sort of feel, he suggested a Cthulu/Dagon/up from the depths sort of theme that I liked the idea of a lot. Make all of their armor look like it's been dragged up from the ocean, maybe make it the color of basalt that sort of thing. Now I just need to figure out how to actually accomplish that sort of look.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I finished this guy the other day. Super-out-of-print, Gamesday only model. Been hoarding it for years, forgot about it, found it at the bottom of my bits bag.
also, snapped some photos of Njal and my Iron Priest.
eff you thousand sons, magnus was wrong
i keep trying to get good picks of this guy but my camera is not cooperating
Matrias on
3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Not sure what colors to paint the T'au Fire Warriors and Pathfinders now that I've given up on the Maliwan thing.
Also made some progress on the Stealth Battlesuit and started the other two.
What is the best way to practice painting minis? Just pick a few I'm not using and keep painting and cleaning them?
Also, what can I do for brush maintenance? Some of my fairly new brushes have strands poking out and I'm not sure what is causing it.
@Stragint Pick the minis you want to play with/think look cool. Paint them to the best of your current ability. Continue doing this with new minis.
In a year, you'll look back at the ones you painted now and marvel at your improvement. In two years you'll get a sudden urge to repaint or replace your "first mini".
But the trick is to keep painting. Don't practice on one mini until you're great. Pick one mini, paint it, then pick a new one etc.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited August 2018
A different, worse colour
"Perfect is the enemy of great", or something like that. It's all too easy to get caught up in a death-spiral of revising your work & thereby stifling any passion or motivation you had for it. What you need to do is take what you can from what worked & didn't as a learning experience and use it on the next thing, and just keep moving forward. There was a podcast about how to make money as a webcartoonist I used to listen to* that talked about that, and it's certainly been my observation with all manner of different people posting creative hobbies online (fanfiction, illustration, music, you name it).
*Not because I had any ambitions in that regard, I draw about as well as your average elementary school kid, but the hosts were really funny and I've always been interested in comic strips.
Alright, so glaze in a layer of gloss. I guess I'll look for a green gloss? I've only ever used clear gloss.
If I wanted to make the armor look like chipped black paint on an oxidised metal armor is the metal layer something I'd paint after the black paint, or would I do the oxidised metal first then paint black on that?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
If you're going for glossy AND dirty, GW has Agrax Earthshade gloss
Haven't used it, but it sounds like it'd fit the bill.
Also, Warhammer TV has a battle damage video... it's basically paint armor --> add battle damage, which afaik is this grey and white chips. I'd have to watch the video again.
I'd do the battle damage then add the oxidization with that nihilakh oxide technical they have.
If you're going for glossy AND dirty, GW has Agrax Earthshade gloss
Haven't used it, but it sounds like it'd fit the bill.
Also, Warhammer TV has a battle damage video... it's basically paint armor --> add battle damage, which afaik is this grey and white chips. I'd have to watch the video again.
I'd do the battle damage then add the oxidization with that nihilakh oxide technical they have.
Well I'm less going for glossy and dirty with the gloss layer, and more for "glossy and recently underwater" so something with a faint blue or green tint (or both) I was potentially considering the waywatcher green or guillimun blue glaze before a clear gloss layer. I'm also debating between the Nihilakh Oxide or a vallejo verdigris glaze. Maybe just get both?
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
"Perfect is the enemy of great", or something like that. It's all too easy to get caught up in a death-spiral of revising your work & thereby stifling any passion or motivation you had for it.
While I empathize with the need to escape the revision death spiral, i would like to point out with this hobby you can actually strip a model and start over and that's actually cheaper than buying something new.
I've been only revising old work for the last bit now, but its years after the fact with the experience to leverage and getting results that satisfy me and leave me happier and glad that I did it.
I guess the important thing is to not kill your motivation. If you need to paint something else to want to keep painting, go paint something else. If you need to experiement more, or try something more simple, do that.
Matrias on
3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I guess the important thing is to not kill your motivation. If you need to paint something else to want to keep painting, go paint something else. If you need to experiement more, or try something more simple, do that.
I'd just like to echo this. I've been struggling to gin up the energy to paint for months now (having an infant will do that for you), and I've just started to find my footing again by having a handful of different paint jobs going. This lets me tinker on a scheme for one job, while basecoating another, while detailing a third set, etc...
I might actually finish something by the end of the year. Regardless, having more than one thing going lets me see progress somewhere, which is the big thing.
Posts
You can spray the green right on and paint from there. I do the same thing with my Space Wolves with the Fang primer.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
you do not need to prime then basecoat as the can does both.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'll be aiming for a fairly dark green, something like scheme R in this picture:
I'm gonna wash off the 24 Necrons, should be pretty quick to do since the primer and any paint on them is fresh. I don't like the gun metal silver primer at all, it looks really bad to me. I'm probably just gonna prime them chaos black, do a base of abaddon black, some necron compound dry brush and then stormhost silver over the spots I want blue and on those I'm gonna use the soulstone blue technical paint for a slight gloss look. Only reason I want to paint them is because I really don't want to not use the orange and blue tubes I bought off of ebay.
I feel alright with this stealth suit so far.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
got quite a few eldar painted now! still need to name my craftworld tho
...
But also that's not purple. ;D
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
It looks like all (or at least, most) of the killy bits are purple, and those are the important parts.
Also made some progress on the Stealth Battlesuit and started the other two.
What is the best way to practice painting minis? Just pick a few I'm not using and keep painting and cleaning them?
Also, what can I do for brush maintenance? Some of my fairly new brushes have strands poking out and I'm not sure what is causing it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What's the figure to the Farseer's right in the first picture Dayspring posted? The one that looks like a biker-Eldar complete with mohawk and leather jacket?
It sounds like your getting paint in the ferrule, the metal part that connect the bristles to the handle. Paint in there will push the bristles apart at the base when it dries causing them to split. Basically just be more careful with putting paint onto the palette
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
But like once I've painted all my minis I have no minis to practice on.
I also found this and it makes me sad.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Believe in the purple, and the purple will reveal itself to you.
Thanks!
Specifically, it's Illic Nightspear with a Harlequin fusion pistol barrel and the head from a DE Scourge. He's my Autarch with Fusion Gun and Warp Jump Generator (hidden under his jacket lol)
For the GSC included in my killteam box I'm probably doing something like one of the below examples for the cloth on their outfits (from the nighthaunts book) with the cream armor panels from the instruction manual (white/sepia). Probably using the purple genestealer skin as well, seeing as warhammer TV has a demo on how to do it and it looks cool :biggrin:
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
How bout something like this? Super verdigris
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
also, snapped some photos of Njal and my Iron Priest.
eff you thousand sons, magnus was wrong
i keep trying to get good picks of this guy but my camera is not cooperating
do you mean a gloss or a glaze, or both?
@Stragint Pick the minis you want to play with/think look cool. Paint them to the best of your current ability. Continue doing this with new minis.
In a year, you'll look back at the ones you painted now and marvel at your improvement. In two years you'll get a sudden urge to repaint or replace your "first mini".
But the trick is to keep painting. Don't practice on one mini until you're great. Pick one mini, paint it, then pick a new one etc.
*Not because I had any ambitions in that regard, I draw about as well as your average elementary school kid, but the hosts were really funny and I've always been interested in comic strips.
Alright, so glaze in a layer of gloss. I guess I'll look for a green gloss? I've only ever used clear gloss.
If I wanted to make the armor look like chipped black paint on an oxidised metal armor is the metal layer something I'd paint after the black paint, or would I do the oxidised metal first then paint black on that?
Haven't used it, but it sounds like it'd fit the bill.
Also, Warhammer TV has a battle damage video... it's basically paint armor --> add battle damage, which afaik is this grey and white chips. I'd have to watch the video again.
I'd do the battle damage then add the oxidization with that nihilakh oxide technical they have.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Well I'm less going for glossy and dirty with the gloss layer, and more for "glossy and recently underwater" so something with a faint blue or green tint (or both) I was potentially considering the waywatcher green or guillimun blue glaze before a clear gloss layer. I'm also debating between the Nihilakh Oxide or a vallejo verdigris glaze. Maybe just get both?
Off again tomorrow and I might just push off all the grown up stuff I actually have to do and paint some nids
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
While I empathize with the need to escape the revision death spiral, i would like to point out with this hobby you can actually strip a model and start over and that's actually cheaper than buying something new.
I've been only revising old work for the last bit now, but its years after the fact with the experience to leverage and getting results that satisfy me and leave me happier and glad that I did it.
I guess the important thing is to not kill your motivation. If you need to paint something else to want to keep painting, go paint something else. If you need to experiement more, or try something more simple, do that.
I'd just like to echo this. I've been struggling to gin up the energy to paint for months now (having an infant will do that for you), and I've just started to find my footing again by having a handful of different paint jobs going. This lets me tinker on a scheme for one job, while basecoating another, while detailing a third set, etc...
I might actually finish something by the end of the year. Regardless, having more than one thing going lets me see progress somewhere, which is the big thing.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6