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We're three times as fast in the 3rd [Gunpla] & Plastic models thread
Curly_Brace
Robot GirlMimiga VillageRegistered User regular
Robot GirlMimiga VillageRegistered User regular
Do you like giant robots?
Do you perhaps like plastic models of giant robots?
If so, welcome one and all to the third thread on building Gunpla (Gundam Plastic models), other models, and related hobbies! Many of us here love our model-building. In fact, here is just a sampling of the models built by forumers:
@Athenor
@Corporal Carl
@Lasbook
@timspork's ghost
Since this is the third of these threads, I'll keep the OP a bit shorter. Suffice to say if you have questions about which models to pick up if you're new to the hobbym ask away! We're friendly folks here. If you are an experienced model-builder and want an interesting challenge, we here have suggestions for you as well. Want to take your model-crafting to the next level? Here are some tips from yours truly:
Most modern gunpla kits don't need glue. You can use some here and there as needed, but if you're worried about the gross (and potentially dangerous) fumes, worry not. You can put together most HG (High Grade) and MG (Master Grade) kits without glue.
Next up is painting. Generally speaking you have three types of painting you can do: spray painting (with "rattle cans" as they are often called), by-hand painting using various brushes, and airbrushing. However, many modern gunpla kits don't need any painting at all: they're molded with show-accurate colors. You may want to hit your model with some topcoat, though. If you do want to paint, I personally recommend to acrylic paints since they are water-based and thus easy to thin. They are also the least toxic (still use them with caution!). Also note: some paints will react badly with the plastic used to make Gunpla and other models. Do your research before spending a lot of money on paint.
There are two ways to paint pieces of your model: in the molding cradle and after you take them out. I highly recommend you cut pieces out of their cradle, sand them, and maybe assemble some parts before painting. It might mean you have to paint one or two pieces at a time but I've found the end result looks so much nicer. Painting pieces in the molding cradle means saving time but cutting corners with the end product. Besides, you're going to be painting individual pieces if your ever upgrade to an Airbrush.
Airbrushing is something I would love to get in to. Yes, after all this time I've not been able to try it. Yet! So take my advice with a grain of salt. Unlike the other kinds of painting it requires a higher initial investment. Namely, putting down a chunk of change ($200... ish) for a mini compressor and an airbrush. You can go crazy and easily spend $1,000 or more, but most advice I've received recommends going for a middle-range compressor and brush. The two major types of brush are gravity-feed (or top-feed) and bottom-feed. Each has their own unique advantages and quirks, so I really recommend you do your research first.
Panel lining is a popular way to make your model look better. However, some find it frustrating or even confusing. How do you get those thin lines full of ink or paint? How do you clean up errors? Well, first pick up some Gundam Markers, aka Gundam pens. The fine-tipped ones are very good for doing panel lines and subtle details. Practice on one model, or maybe on a spare part. Some folks say you can panel line without doing any painting at all, but I find the ink tends to stick a bit better sometimes if there is a paint coat below it. You are also probably going to want to di a clear topcoat as a sealant over the panel lining, by the way. As for undoing mistakes; I've found a white plastic eraser actually removes the ink from a Gundam Marker! (The ink types, not the actual paint Markers.) I use a Pentel Hi-Polymer eraser. If you mess up with paint let it dry first, then work on a correction. You'll make less of a mess that way.
Useful links:
Gunpla Modeling 101
A Layman's Gunpla Guide
Building for beginners
Do you perhaps like plastic models of giant robots?
If so, welcome one and all to the third thread on building Gunpla (Gundam Plastic models), other models, and related hobbies! Many of us here love our model-building. In fact, here is just a sampling of the models built by forumers:
@Athenor
@Corporal Carl
@Lasbook
@timspork's ghost
Since this is the third of these threads, I'll keep the OP a bit shorter. Suffice to say if you have questions about which models to pick up if you're new to the hobbym ask away! We're friendly folks here. If you are an experienced model-builder and want an interesting challenge, we here have suggestions for you as well. Want to take your model-crafting to the next level? Here are some tips from yours truly:
Most modern gunpla kits don't need glue. You can use some here and there as needed, but if you're worried about the gross (and potentially dangerous) fumes, worry not. You can put together most HG (High Grade) and MG (Master Grade) kits without glue.
Next up is painting. Generally speaking you have three types of painting you can do: spray painting (with "rattle cans" as they are often called), by-hand painting using various brushes, and airbrushing. However, many modern gunpla kits don't need any painting at all: they're molded with show-accurate colors. You may want to hit your model with some topcoat, though. If you do want to paint, I personally recommend to acrylic paints since they are water-based and thus easy to thin. They are also the least toxic (still use them with caution!). Also note: some paints will react badly with the plastic used to make Gunpla and other models. Do your research before spending a lot of money on paint.
There are two ways to paint pieces of your model: in the molding cradle and after you take them out. I highly recommend you cut pieces out of their cradle, sand them, and maybe assemble some parts before painting. It might mean you have to paint one or two pieces at a time but I've found the end result looks so much nicer. Painting pieces in the molding cradle means saving time but cutting corners with the end product. Besides, you're going to be painting individual pieces if your ever upgrade to an Airbrush.
Airbrushing is something I would love to get in to. Yes, after all this time I've not been able to try it. Yet! So take my advice with a grain of salt. Unlike the other kinds of painting it requires a higher initial investment. Namely, putting down a chunk of change ($200... ish) for a mini compressor and an airbrush. You can go crazy and easily spend $1,000 or more, but most advice I've received recommends going for a middle-range compressor and brush. The two major types of brush are gravity-feed (or top-feed) and bottom-feed. Each has their own unique advantages and quirks, so I really recommend you do your research first.
Panel lining is a popular way to make your model look better. However, some find it frustrating or even confusing. How do you get those thin lines full of ink or paint? How do you clean up errors? Well, first pick up some Gundam Markers, aka Gundam pens. The fine-tipped ones are very good for doing panel lines and subtle details. Practice on one model, or maybe on a spare part. Some folks say you can panel line without doing any painting at all, but I find the ink tends to stick a bit better sometimes if there is a paint coat below it. You are also probably going to want to di a clear topcoat as a sealant over the panel lining, by the way. As for undoing mistakes; I've found a white plastic eraser actually removes the ink from a Gundam Marker! (The ink types, not the actual paint Markers.) I use a Pentel Hi-Polymer eraser. If you mess up with paint let it dry first, then work on a correction. You'll make less of a mess that way.
Useful links:
Gunpla Modeling 101
A Layman's Gunpla Guide
Building for beginners
+9
Posts
I'm actually really happy today, and have been waiting for the new thread. As I posted before, I got 3 models in this wave: Death Stinger (seen above), Dibison, and Pteras Bomber. The bomber's a bit of a special one for me, as it is technically the first model I ever tried panel lining on - over 10 years ago, if not longer. Lot less patient back then...
Anyways. I was kind of worried about the bomber because it didn't appear to have a zoids core! This is one of my favorite touches with the HMM series - each Zoid has its core, which is the actual beast that the rest of the mech is built around. So to find out the model didn't have one was a bummer.
Then I looked closer.
Because it was on a runner, I completely missed that the model has a super tiny, cute little zoid core! So.. yay! I'm super happy about that. It goes in the backpack, I believe.
Unfortunately, this might be the first model I HAVE to paint. So far, I've been bypassing a lot of painting because I don't want to prime the whole model and try to match the original colors. But the bomber has this really nice white leading edge on its wings in the artwork. This usually would be a piece of plastic, but it doesn't look like this is the case for this model.
So we'll see what happens.
https://bandai-hobby.net/site/schedule_images/nouhin.pdf
Protip, if there's anything you're waiting on, like me and my outstanding IBO kits, don't look at it because it's guaranteed to drive you crazy. It's been like 4 months! Aaah!
Some Build Fighters/Divers stuff. The Grimore Red Beret is a fantastic kit, I highly recommend it.
I still need to put the decals on my RG Tallgeese (and uh, glue the shield connector which started breaking at the shoulder while I was positioning it)
And the next kits I'm working on:
I’ve been eyeing my Gundam Vidar and Reginlaze Julia boxes recently.
Steam ID - VeldrinD | SS Post | Wishlist
I'm trying to relax about the sticker placement on the lights. I know it's impossible to get perfect, and some of these foil ones are just straight up not able to go on flat or fit in their designed place. But it's still frustrating to not get it juuuuuust right, y'know? Wish there were waterslides.
Had a hard time with the cables in the arms. Went over the manual a dozen times, pretty sure I did it all right (twice) but there's a part on the elbow that is likely to pop out when flexing the arms, and they're difficult to rotate side to side. I've not found any complaints about this online, making me paranoid that I messed up. Plenty of complaints about the waist, but I had no issues there - just a very scary and tough connection. ;p
On the plus side, discovered that holding the button when turning the power switch on lets you cycle through some of the light effects, including this briefly shown shutdown mode - normally it flashes red for less than a second, but you can display it in red at all times and it looks neat!
You should look into getting a set of Gundam Markers that includes white. These are oil based paints, and being a leading edge you'd have no issues applying the paint to the wing as in the picture.
Note - none listed as being in Amazon Prime, so I'd check your local hobby shops.
Edit - They work on bare plastic just fine.
Do note I was using the white fine marker (GM49) and not the regular white one (GM11).
Steam
I might partake. Not sure.
What is local for you?
(Oops these are gigantic.)
Big Papa Unicorn doing his transformation. It's weird, I've consumed these shows nearly my whole life, but you see this guy at full scale and you can really feel just how even more terrifying war would be if a metal man the size of a building is walking at you.
They played the theme song during the transformation and I may have teared up a little bit.
So! The Gundam Base is on the top floor of the mall behind Unicorn there, and it is a place of wonder and also bad financial decisions.
Near as I can tell, every single gunpla ever manufactured is for sale here.
This one is like three feet tall.
There are a lot of models by various folks, including contest winners like these. There was even a section specially for women modellers.
Some stuff you can only get there. This is a smart speaker shaped like Haro. It has a lot of lines by the original voice actor too.
And a variety of special molds. I ended up lugging this Sazabi Ver. Ka around for the remainder of the trip, which I do not recommend.
The front has a big display case of the hero suit from every single series.
I may have to get a Zeta some time...
[edit] Whoops, just looked at this post in not-mobile. Forgot they're huge. I'll stick em under a spoiler.
When you say the OG Gundam, do you mean the HG RX-78-2 Revive? Because if yes, it's an excellent kit with amazing posability, and very much worth getting.
Uhhhhh yes please
There’s one account where this dude does nice photos of his gunpla alongside a new craft beer, which he reviews. Beer is gross, but the gunpla is good!
Small models are the gateway drug gunpla.
EDIT: Wait, no, apparently this is the Mobile Suit Ensemble line, which looks somewhere between like Assault Kingdom/Universal Unit/G-Frame and Converge
small models and gashapon figures are the only lines where AoZ gets shown any love, hazel and woundwort notwithstanding
Wait, tell me this one
I like beer AND gunpla
Yes, I have 2 sets therefore I have 2 shields. And I gave him those cool IBO Option Set 7 Lara Croft climbing hooks.
Note that the visor currently already has its marking tape on it, because this boy will be top coated as soon as the weather permits it (it has been rainy and very windy over here).
It does have mad poseability; the GM won't know what hit him...
Still need to panel line the bottom of the feet, if I'm going to keep him in a similar pose...
Pros and cons of this set:
+ very cheap
+ cool model
+ extremely poseable
o fast build unless you're like me sanding away the nubs
- the dark green plastic is way softer than the other plastic, which makes it far more scratch prone and harder to clean up nub marks in my opinion
- it doesn't feel as sturdy; it's as if the connectors are far more wobbly
- the ankle bits pop easily loose
- only 2 closed hands supplied, no open hands available
I also have two Leo NPDs left, so I can nicely mix and match with the second Leo set I've got, but that'll be for a later time...
I...I'm in some real fucking trouble here.
This core fighter has taken somewhere between 3-4 hours so far, and I still need to build the giant verniers. I can’t imagine how long it would take if I painted it.
Steam
If I want to start trying to sculpt custom details, what am I looking to get these days?
Materials-wise that is
What is it you want to do? For Gundam, plasticard and plastic cement are great for building custom parts. For adding panel lines, you need a scriber and preferably a thick plastic tape to act as a guide. Greenstuff and sculpting tools can be used if you want to do non-geometric stuff.
I found this one on my own btw, it's Colvinology
Can Instagram embed? Let's try
I've been putting off building my Zoids, because I fear I'm running through my panel marker stuff and the two remaining sets are very dark.
But I did pick up the store's RX-78-2 Gundam. So I guess I'm going to paint this guy. Not sure how... but we'll see.
I'm going to let it dry overnight just to be sure, and then tomorrow I'll reassemble it and take a better look (and a picture of the matte top coated Leo)