Put together a Plasma Obliterator for my genestealer cult out of all this spare mechanicus terrain. Gotta drape it in spooky cult insignia then...not sure on a paint scheme yet. Probably rusted to hell.
My new vallejo surface primer showed up today. Basecoated a flyrant, 10 GSC from the killteam box and three hive guard.
A bit more time consuming than the old rattle can, but holy crap does it give a smooth finish. Dunno if the pics do it justice, but most of these guys look like they were molded from black plastic now.
A cheap crappy Masters airbrush and a little cake decorating air compressor are around 50 bucks, and will let you prime and basecoat to your heart’s content. You’ll wanna at least get a real compressor eventually but it’s enough to learn the basics with.
Do you guys thin down Vallejo Surface Primer when brushing it on?
Yes. But it depends.
You're going to have a longer "active working time" while brushing it, so you'll just want to thin it down a bit anyway to keep it effective for a session. Local temperature / how quickly stuff tends to evaporate (I don't know, is this tied to humidity or some other measure of "arid-ness" of a place? :P ) / whether or not you're using a wet palate would all have some impact, depending on how much you want to put on your palate and the size of your brush while using it. I think you get the idea.
Otherwise, it doesn't really require any special treatment from a normal water-based acrylic paint.
(I also find when airbrushing I thin it a fair bit or else I get clogs within seconds of starting, and that all bottles are not created equal so you kind of have to feel that out too)
You can get big booger strings of congealed paint in Vallejo primer, so before airbrushing I like to stir it and pull out any goop ropes. That usually solves any clog problems, but then I put some airbrush thinner in everything.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Purple
I largely have just been using the VSP straight from the bottle through the airbrush, with largely no problem. Sometimes I'll add a drop of thinner, but only rarely. Most problems I've encountered have been pressure or cleaning issues, and I've mostly moved past that stuff with good practices.
Back to an earlier conversation: my wife placed an Amazon order this week, and I had her add a 32oz bottle of Medea/Iwata cleaner to the purchase. Just over $11 seemed like good value.
Imagine my surprise when the package showed up with two 32 oz bottles. She accidentally double clicked, or something.
I think I have enough cleaning solution to last a lifetime, now. :biggrin:
So I have two projects for painting now. I'm finally feeling in the mood again.
I'm gonna do my Tau KT in color shift paints, each squad is gonna be a different color. Still need to figure out how to highlight with that or if I even need to highlight.
The other one is painting my AdMech KT like the taken from destiny. I'm thinking I'll need gloss black and white for a base and then try to figure it out from there.
For reference
That person clearly has six limbs, seems like a genestealer to me.
For real though, that seems like a challenging paint scheme, but I'd love to see the finished project.
Yea, I figure it is gonna be a pain. Like I'm not really sure how to get that effect on the legs transferred to paint. I'm gonna look at some youtube videos for glowing effects.
my idea would a preferably airbrushed gradient from off-white to grey-turquoise to (almost) black gradient as a basecoat than highlight the whole model with glazes of the same greyish turquoise as the midtone of the gradient. Maybe also a pure white wash into the recesses of the off-white parts.
This seems like a case where the late 80s are calling and you want to break out the gloss varnish.
Me: *buys Talos, Baneblade, Lord of Skulls and a crapton of paints*
Once l get all the decorating done upstairs I've got LOADS to paint
I look forward to watching you paint all of the things.
I look forward to painting half of it, getting angry, throwing it in the dettol and then glaring at it for five weeks before picking it back up and doing a solid paintjob.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Painting my Lord of Skulls was a long arduous journey of self-discovery. But all I discovered was that a Lord of Skulls has over 100 skulls modeled on it, and each one needed highlighting.
Hey guys quick question. I'm almost done with my first Kill Team squad and I'd like to paint the eye lenses of my Dark Angel Primaris marines using my MSP Clear Red. I think the technique is to do some monochrome shading and then putting a layer of Clear Red over it, but I'm not 100% sure about the technique. Do I start with a light grey or go darker? Do I still thin my Clear Red?
Is MSP clear red anything like the tamiya clears? If so, it looks great over just a layer of any bright silver.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Alright finished up my Hill Giant. It took a lot of paint but the larger size certainly made it easier to practice techniques. I deffinitely learned some things though about multi piece models. I should have probably painted everything before attaching the head, because there were spots a brush just didn't reach. I was able to get some dark wash on it but it wasn't pretty. I have a couple Storm Giants and a Fire Giant on order so more practice!
TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
edited October 2018
A different, worse colour
The citadel cases with the zigzag foam works well for my bigger plastic models. I wouldn't trust them to hold anything metal though
for warhammer models with 25mm bases I have an old cigar travel case with a bunch of foam trays. It looks kinda like the attached picture by a different company. It was given to me by a friend a while ago so I'm not sure how or where to get it affordably but if you come across one it's pretty much perfect. Mine fits 150 models with no bouncing around or scraping against each other
The citadel cases with the zigzag foam works well for my bigger plastic models. I wouldn't trust them to hold anything metal though
for warhammer models with 25mm bases I have an old cigar travel case with a bunch of foam trays. It looks kinda like the attached picture by a different company. It was given to me by a friend a while ago so I'm not sure how or where to get it affordably but if you come across one it's pretty much perfect. Mine fits 150 models with no bouncing around or scraping against each other
The old egg crate foam is good for either metal or plastic minis
I really do recommend the Plano 4-15 in general
It's great as a build box or for general transport of infantry
I used an old box for my eldar stuff the falcons made it poorly though the years yet things like my monolith and rhinos made it though fine {all three were in different boxes}
I was working on that clear red over silver this morning. I've got a fair mix of GW, Privateer Press, and Reaper mini paint pots. My silver line is eclectic to say the least: Adamantine Black, Pig Iron, and Quicksliver from PP, Leadbelcher base from GW, and then some Polished Silver from Reaper. I like the GW and love PP paints, but the Reaper metallics seem particularly shitty. Especially this New Gold that I'm using. after 4 coats on a sprew (for testing) I couldn't get a nice even layer over black. Likewise the Polished Silver had the same terrible thick consistency that thins extremely poorly. Anyone else have a similar experience? I'm about to give up and buy more GW paints for these colors in particular.
The newer GW silvers and golds (stormhost silver? Liberator gold?) are pretty nice and probably their best metallics to date. I prefer Vallejo Airs though. They don’t need thinning and go on like silk.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Posts
Tzeentch is back...in pog form!
A bit more time consuming than the old rattle can, but holy crap does it give a smooth finish. Dunno if the pics do it justice, but most of these guys look like they were molded from black plastic now.
10/10, great product.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
N.B. VSP can be brushed on too. Takes forever, mind, but there you go.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I did not. Tried a GSC mini first because they're expendable and just dumped some in the airbrush as it looked fairly thin on its own.
Zero clogging and got a nice even coat right out of the bottle.
E - you said brushing and my reply was entirely in context of Airbrushing
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yes. But it depends.
You're going to have a longer "active working time" while brushing it, so you'll just want to thin it down a bit anyway to keep it effective for a session. Local temperature / how quickly stuff tends to evaporate (I don't know, is this tied to humidity or some other measure of "arid-ness" of a place? :P ) / whether or not you're using a wet palate would all have some impact, depending on how much you want to put on your palate and the size of your brush while using it. I think you get the idea.
Otherwise, it doesn't really require any special treatment from a normal water-based acrylic paint.
(I also find when airbrushing I thin it a fair bit or else I get clogs within seconds of starting, and that all bottles are not created equal so you kind of have to feel that out too)
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Back to an earlier conversation: my wife placed an Amazon order this week, and I had her add a 32oz bottle of Medea/Iwata cleaner to the purchase. Just over $11 seemed like good value.
Imagine my surprise when the package showed up with two 32 oz bottles. She accidentally double clicked, or something.
I think I have enough cleaning solution to last a lifetime, now. :biggrin:
This seems like a case where the late 80s are calling and you want to break out the gloss varnish.
I made a game, it has penguins in it. It's pay what you like on Gumroad.
Currently Ebaying Nothing at all but I might do in the future.
Me: 'Nah, I've got a big project to finish first'
Mrs: 'Money isn't an object...'
Me: *buys Talos, Baneblade, Lord of Skulls and a crapton of paints*
Once l get all the decorating done upstairs I've got LOADS to paint
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I look forward to watching you paint all of the things.
I look forward to painting half of it, getting angry, throwing it in the dettol and then glaring at it for five weeks before picking it back up and doing a solid paintjob.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
In Progress shots in the spoiler
Washes
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I tried to do this when i started my tau army but i did not like how it turned out
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I keep meaning to figure out a better solution but these have kept my minis safe for years
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I don't believe it is but I've never used it, myself.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
for warhammer models with 25mm bases I have an old cigar travel case with a bunch of foam trays. It looks kinda like the attached picture by a different company. It was given to me by a friend a while ago so I'm not sure how or where to get it affordably but if you come across one it's pretty much perfect. Mine fits 150 models with no bouncing around or scraping against each other
The old egg crate foam is good for either metal or plastic minis
I really do recommend the Plano 4-15 in general
It's great as a build box or for general transport of infantry
I used an old box for my eldar stuff the falcons made it poorly though the years yet things like my monolith and rhinos made it though fine {all three were in different boxes}
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
*Knocks Boba into the Sarlacc pit*
edit: Progress! Taking a break from daemons has been really motivating this weekend
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Really feeling like painting but getting the motivation up to do it has been difficult.
I think I'm gonna put the Genestealers from the kill team starter box together to try the taken paint scheme.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
https://www.thewarstore.com/Kneadatite-Epoxy-Modeling-Putty-Green-Stuff-35oz-100g.html
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6