Keenbean's a hard one to follow, but I have some time off work over December/January, so I thought I'd share the Reiver I've been working on:
Looking at the photos I see some stuff I could touch up (and some mould lines I've missed, yikes) but I have to learn when to decide that something is good enough, or I'll never finish anything.
You see a mini with things you could touch up, and I see damn near perfection. It's funny how this hobby has basically never ending depths. It's helpful to remind oneself of progress whenever you can.
Thank you, that's very kind of you to say.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
So I've got my Knight primed. It's a good prime job, nice and smooth...except a couple of pieces, somehow, have gotten particles of...something under the primer. What's the best way to fix this before I apply paint? I was thinking of sanding the texture off and then re-priming the pieces, but I figure I might not get an even coat that way? Should I completely strip them and start over? Unfortunately it's on some really smooth parts and will be super noticable once it's painted. I cleaned all the pieces and made sure they were dust/particle free before I started priming, but somehow something got on them.
I'd just sand it down lightly. Stripping the whole thing seems like you're making extra work rather than just fixing the problem. As long as you're diligent with your application (only going where you need to go) your coats should be quite even enough.
So after I'd already done a bunch of priming in black, I bought some white spray primer.
I gave a couple of black minis a quick one-direction spray from the white can, not covering all angles for a sneaky shadow shortcut (see the elf on the right in the pic) Is this something that's going to have any influence on the later coats?
It will, this is what people are referring too when you read about Zenithal Highlighting.
I think the better answer is "It can, depending on how you paint it."
If you use thick paint you run a risk of just straight covering the undertones. Multiple coats of thinned paint can also do so. There's sort of a balance to find in your paint properties, but the best way is to just experiment a bit and also not start by gooping a bunch on. :P
Zenithal is specifically a dark undercoat, a light directional spray, and then a series of washes, right? You very deliberately only wash to keep the directional light.
What is this I don't even.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Keenbean's a hard one to follow, but I have some time off work over December/January, so I thought I'd share the Reiver I've been working on:
Looking at the photos I see some stuff I could touch up (and some mould lines I've missed, yikes) but I have to learn when to decide that something is good enough, or I'll never finish anything.
Now I know know what my Reivers will look like. Those are nice.
Badger is having a sale on their airbrushes today. $55 for any of their airbrushes, including the Sotar 20/20, Krome, and Patriot 105 Xtreme. Details can be found on their facebook page.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Badger is having a sale on their airbrushes today. $55 for any of their airbrushes, including the Sotar 20/20, Krome, and Patriot 105 Xtreme. Details can be found on their facebook page.
So what im looking at here is buying an airbrush because it's a good deal and then sitting on it for 6 months until a good compressor goes on sale.
This is actually pretty darn good quality for an entry-level printer. Printed the test model that came on the SD card it came with, it's about 3" high.
Here's a trio of Space Wolves I painted for a friend as a Christmas gift. I didn't paint any insignia on since he is starting his Kill Team and still hasn't decided where to go with that.
I have continued to paint my Deathwatch. Not sure how I want to base them yet though so I haven't based them. I was going to do mud and plants but maybe something else? Gray gravel might work.
Also White Scar shoulder pads suck when your base color is black.
Looking at the photos I see some stuff I could touch up (and some mould lines I've missed, yikes) but I have to learn when to decide that something is good enough, or I'll never finish anything.
@W2 looking at the photos, the only thing I would add is blacklining on the boots. Working on it more would likely add distractions from an otherwise perfect table-top model.
Working on my deathwatch means I'll have to learn how to paint faces, so I primed that chunk of veteran sprue that has like 8 heads on it to do some test paints.
First two faces I've ever painted
Jesus christ are these ever difficult to get right, especially the eyes... I think I need a smaller brush.
Working on my deathwatch means I'll have to learn how to paint faces, so I primed that chunk of veteran sprue that has like 8 heads on it to do some test paints.
First two faces I've ever painted
Jesus christ are these ever difficult to get right, especially the eyes... I think I need a smaller brush.
When I realized most of these guys were squinting, and I could get away with just blacklining the eyes with a wash, it made a world of difference.
What material did you use for the snow/tile/stone on those bases in the last photo?
Dragon Forge bases.
It's supposed to be marble, but I can't paint stone to save my life.
The grey marble bits on those shields says otherwise.
RE: eyes - unless you're entering a competition or just hate yourself, don't bother. Not one but you will notice or care unless you point it out to them so they do notice (they still won't care because people are monsters). It's infuriating.
Working on my deathwatch means I'll have to learn how to paint faces, so I primed that chunk of veteran sprue that has like 8 heads on it to do some test paints.
First two faces I've ever painted
Jesus christ are these ever difficult to get right, especially the eyes... I think I need a smaller brush.
When I realized most of these guys were squinting, and I could get away with just blacklining the eyes with a wash, it made a world of difference.
In other words, I'm not the best at faces either.
What material did you use for the snow/tile/stone on those bases in the last photo?
Dragon Forge bases.
It's supposed to be marble, but I can't paint stone to save my life.
The grey marble bits on those shields says otherwise.
RE: eyes - unless you're entering a competition or just hate yourself, don't bother. Not one but you will notice or care unless you point it out to them so they do notice (they still won't care because people are monsters). It's infuriating.
So is that the quick and dirty method for eyes then? Just a dab of nuln oil under their browline?
Working on my deathwatch means I'll have to learn how to paint faces, so I primed that chunk of veteran sprue that has like 8 heads on it to do some test paints.
First two faces I've ever painted
Jesus christ are these ever difficult to get right, especially the eyes... I think I need a smaller brush.
When I realized most of these guys were squinting, and I could get away with just blacklining the eyes with a wash, it made a world of difference.
In other words, I'm not the best at faces either.
What material did you use for the snow/tile/stone on those bases in the last photo?
Dragon Forge bases.
It's supposed to be marble, but I can't paint stone to save my life.
The grey marble bits on those shields says otherwise.
RE: eyes - unless you're entering a competition or just hate yourself, don't bother. Not one but you will notice or care unless you point it out to them so they do notice (they still won't care because people are monsters). It's infuriating.
So is that the quick and dirty method for eyes then? Just a dab of nuln oil under their browline?
Working on my deathwatch means I'll have to learn how to paint faces, so I primed that chunk of veteran sprue that has like 8 heads on it to do some test paints.
First two faces I've ever painted
Jesus christ are these ever difficult to get right, especially the eyes... I think I need a smaller brush.
When I realized most of these guys were squinting, and I could get away with just blacklining the eyes with a wash, it made a world of difference.
In other words, I'm not the best at faces either.
What material did you use for the snow/tile/stone on those bases in the last photo?
Dragon Forge bases.
It's supposed to be marble, but I can't paint stone to save my life.
The grey marble bits on those shields says otherwise.
RE: eyes - unless you're entering a competition or just hate yourself, don't bother. Not one but you will notice or care unless you point it out to them so they do notice (they still won't care because people are monsters). It's infuriating.
So is that the quick and dirty method for eyes then? Just a dab of nuln oil under their browline?
I'll say this...
My squinty marines look so much better than my older googly eyed IG.
Going a bit different with my scheme. Bright/light colours on my basic dudes. I'll go more 'traditional' on the bigger beasts.
I spent a bunch of time working on this yesterday:
I had him given to me as a gift 10+ years ago. It was in rough shape and sat in a bag in my drawer until last week. This is how he started:
I really have a soft spot for this old goofy model (and new Slann are expensive) so I spent some time last week stripping and cleaning the parts.
At first I was going to rebuild the whole thing, old Saurus and all. I ran into a few problems though and figured I kind of wanted him to look more like the current Slaan. Having him hover solves the "how does he fly" issue I had but he needed a new platform to make it really work. I wanted to save as much as the original model as possible but I didn't want to sculpt stone carvings so I ended up using some balsa wood. I still added some stone bits I had leftover from other as decorations to complete the look. The little new stone bits at the back and front kind of hint at an underlying structure I think.
The base is fully magnetized too. Just a few rare earth magnets mounted inside an old square base with a piece of plasticard covering it.
Looking to grab an ultrasonic cleaner to strip some secondhand plastic minis I have
Can I just grab any old $30 beater on ebay and get the same results as a higher end one for a handful of plastic 'gaunts? The product range on amazon goes up into the hundreds.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I painted the Avatar! (and friends)
Did you know there's a Legend of Korra pro-bending board game? I didn't till someone bought me a copy for xmas, it's quite a fun little two-player tactics thing, but I felt a need to slap some quick paint on the included models. Not my best work, I don't really know how often I'll get chance to play it, but they were pretty decent minis for a board game.
For some reason that shows OLD citadel/coat de' arms Warlock Purple as a blood red, so take that with a grain of salt like every other conversion chart.
I keep reading about OSL (zenithal?) effect on armor. To do a super basic effect like that on Deathwatch (assuming they're just primed black at the moment), would you just hit them with an airbrush from above with a super dark grey to get a bit of an overhead light effect?
I'm looking at super basic starter grade technique here, but I'm a bit lost on how to start with black being the base.
All I see is a shot of the little guy hanging on a fence that has a sign saying 'parks closed due to govt shutdown' and a caption of "how do you explain this to them?"
+2
VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
i had a realization
if i just painted my poxwalkers a large portion of my army would be painted
I'm rather partial to the second from the right on the bottom, as "high as Fuck, eye of Sauron". Contrasted with the normal one far right, second from top.
I made made a bunch of Primaris Reivers but didn't attach their Grav-Chutes. The chutes themselves are too small to drill into with magnets (and that's a lot of work), and I don't want to permanently glue them as they seem very fiddly and vulnerable to snapping off. I wonder if I could use a non-permanent sticky glue, like the kind that is sometimes used to attach cards to magazine covers. I don't know what that substance is called though or where to find it... or if it will strip off paint. Anyone know what I'm talking about and if that would be a good solution?
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited January 2019
Purple
[Edit] Had a suggestion, but nvm, just looked at Reiver pics.
I mean if I was playing someone and they said "Hey, I paid the points for these Reavers to have grav chutes, I just didn't model them because the pieces are pretty finicky" I would be like "ok".
The ETB ones don't even have them as a modeling option.
Posts
Thank you, that's very kind of you to say.
I think the better answer is "It can, depending on how you paint it."
If you use thick paint you run a risk of just straight covering the undertones. Multiple coats of thinned paint can also do so. There's sort of a balance to find in your paint properties, but the best way is to just experiment a bit and also not start by gooping a bunch on. :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Now I know know what my Reivers will look like. Those are nice.
So what im looking at here is buying an airbrush because it's a good deal and then sitting on it for 6 months until a good compressor goes on sale.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Edit: Ended up ordering an Extreme. With shipping and handling the regular 105 wasn't any cheaper than buying on prime.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
This is actually pretty darn good quality for an entry-level printer. Printed the test model that came on the SD card it came with, it's about 3" high.
Also White Scar shoulder pads suck when your base color is black.
@W2 looking at the photos, the only thing I would add is blacklining on the boots. Working on it more would likely add distractions from an otherwise perfect table-top model.
First two faces I've ever painted
Jesus christ are these ever difficult to get right, especially the eyes... I think I need a smaller brush.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
When I realized most of these guys were squinting, and I could get away with just blacklining the eyes with a wash, it made a world of difference.
In other words, I'm not the best at faces either.
Dragon Forge bases.
It's supposed to be marble, but I can't paint stone to save my life.
The grey marble bits on those shields says otherwise.
RE: eyes - unless you're entering a competition or just hate yourself, don't bother. Not one but you will notice or care unless you point it out to them so they do notice (they still won't care because people are monsters). It's infuriating.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
So is that the quick and dirty method for eyes then? Just a dab of nuln oil under their browline?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I'll say this...
My squinty marines look so much better than my older googly eyed IG.
Going a bit different with my scheme. Bright/light colours on my basic dudes. I'll go more 'traditional' on the bigger beasts.
I spent a bunch of time working on this yesterday:
I had him given to me as a gift 10+ years ago. It was in rough shape and sat in a bag in my drawer until last week. This is how he started:
I really have a soft spot for this old goofy model (and new Slann are expensive) so I spent some time last week stripping and cleaning the parts.
At first I was going to rebuild the whole thing, old Saurus and all. I ran into a few problems though and figured I kind of wanted him to look more like the current Slaan. Having him hover solves the "how does he fly" issue I had but he needed a new platform to make it really work. I wanted to save as much as the original model as possible but I didn't want to sculpt stone carvings so I ended up using some balsa wood. I still added some stone bits I had leftover from other as decorations to complete the look. The little new stone bits at the back and front kind of hint at an underlying structure I think.
The base is fully magnetized too. Just a few rare earth magnets mounted inside an old square base with a piece of plasticard covering it.
Can I just grab any old $30 beater on ebay and get the same results as a higher end one for a handful of plastic 'gaunts? The product range on amazon goes up into the hundreds.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Did you know there's a Legend of Korra pro-bending board game? I didn't till someone bought me a copy for xmas, it's quite a fun little two-player tactics thing, but I felt a need to slap some quick paint on the included models. Not my best work, I don't really know how often I'll get chance to play it, but they were pretty decent minis for a board game.
Went much simpler this time... bugmans glow, tried a purple wash, then a layer of cadian fleshtone with a couple of tiny kislev flesh highlights.
Then a dap of nuln oil under the brows... Squinty marine is a go
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
One hell of a comprehensive paint conversion chart.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
For some reason that shows OLD citadel/coat de' arms Warlock Purple as a blood red, so take that with a grain of salt like every other conversion chart.
I'm looking at super basic starter grade technique here, but I'm a bit lost on how to start with black being the base.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Taking their son to the zoo.
if i just painted my poxwalkers a large portion of my army would be painted
so i am going to do that
You have to have his eyes pointing in different directions.
I was worried about making him look too 'weird' but after looking into it, man... real frogs are weird.
I found this when looking at eye reference photos. Look at these weird fucking things:
Color: either 2nd row middle or bottom row middle
Cracking up at "high as fuck Eye of Sauron" btw
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Boy howdy, that's a fiddly little bit.
The ETB ones don't even have them as a modeling option.