TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
A different, worse colour
I just tried army painter's green primer on a test 40k marine and it went on super thick without me realizing. I just used it like I would my normal krylon primer
Started painting again. Lost my job a few days before Christmas and have been in a funk during the search for the next. Got inspired by my orks and IronJawz so I am back at it trying to get back into things!
Getting some models done for LVO this weekend!
Berserkers made from WFB beastmen and chaos warriors.
With the new CA pointsdrop for dreads and helbrutes, I had to make a few more of the critters.
Here's a stock brawly Helbrute with melee weapons and double combibolters ( rotor cannon)
And a double chainfist Contemptor lookin for trouble.
TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
A different, worse colour
Sometimes I just get fed up, give myself a strict time limit on something that's been sitting half painted in my backlog, and live with the results. I like how these guys came out even though I took lots of shortcuts, just waiting on decals in the mail now.
Putting together this new sector fronteris stuff and they mention how they add gun turrets to their property. So I made one. Also stuck a chimney on the big building, and kinda want to do something with smoke effects with it.
Huh, is there an untapped market for combination airbrushes/crack pipes? I guess crack isn't the drug typically associated with artistic types, but you never know.
0
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
So looking at modifying my crack pipe- I mean, airbrushes with quick change adapters for the hose and brushes. How do I know which size connection I need?
I have to wonder how often moms have found an airbrush in their kids room and thought it was a crack pipe.
I dated a girl who freaked out once when she saw thermal paste on my coffee table.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I am so far behind on painting certain things. My colorshift T'au still need the gloss varnish before I can go on with them and I have other stuff I've wanted to paint. My models are starting to get dusty.
I am still trying to figure out what I want to do with my AdMech kill team. I wanted to paint them up like the taken from Destiny but I'm not sure I can really manage something like that and was considering going kind of simple as far as painting something kind of normal but with unusual colors.
I really need to decide on this.
Destiny taken pic for reference
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
So looking at modifying my crack pipe- I mean, airbrushes with quick change adapters for the hose and brushes. How do I know which size connection I need?
Well that was easy, since when I startes looking, they pretty much said 'fits X, Y, and Z' air brushes. :biggrin:
+1
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited February 2019
Cleaning off more Necrons using 50/50 water and simple green. Should I use only simple green though?
Last time I'm ever cleaning paint off models. I hate this nonsense.
I want to do a metallic color on the armor plates on my Necrons and I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. I was thinking of priming with leadbelcher, airbrushing the whole thing silver, using a brush to paint the tamiya clear paint on for the metallic effect, and then painting the other parts back to leadbelcher painting the gun and doing a wash of nuln oil.
Could that work?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I painted a big boy! (and friends)
I think that this size of model is about perfect when it comes to the balance between nicely detailed and not too overwhelming, I sometimes find myself getting daunted and/or bored when it comes to painting up the very big kits.
+14
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I want to do a metallic color on the armor plates on my Necrons and I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. I was thinking of priming with leadbelcher, airbrushing the whole thing silver, using a brush to paint the tamiya clear paint on for the metallic effect, and then painting the other parts back to leadbelcher painting the gun and doing a wash of nuln oil.
Could that work?
I'd prime black, then do a base of Leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil, then drybrush Leadbelcher, then do either a light drybrush of Runefang Steel or just an edge highlight depending on how shiny you want your death robutts to be.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I want to do a metallic color on the armor plates on my Necrons and I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. I was thinking of priming with leadbelcher, airbrushing the whole thing silver, using a brush to paint the tamiya clear paint on for the metallic effect, and then painting the other parts back to leadbelcher painting the gun and doing a wash of nuln oil.
Could that work?
I'd prime black, then do a base of Leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil, then drybrush Leadbelcher, then do either a light drybrush of Runefang Steel or just an edge highlight depending on how shiny you want your death robutts to be.
This is basically what I'm trying to do. I didn't paint this, I found it on Google.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You might be able to paint leadbelcher or runefang steel and then shade or even glaze with your desired color to get a tinted metal look.
+3
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
He's starting to look like a Knight!
I have most of the armor painted. I need to paint his top shell still. The shoulder armor isn't as nice of a paint job as I'd like, but it will work. I think I did a much better job on his leg plates, much smoother coats. I've gloss coated his skeleton already to seal in that paint. I'm going to gloss coat the whole model again once I have the armor plates on. Then matte coat it as the finisher. Probably about a week of work left at the pace I paint. Really excited to finish this project. This is definitely the largest, most detailed, model I've ever painted.
I want to do a metallic color on the armor plates on my Necrons and I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. I was thinking of priming with leadbelcher, airbrushing the whole thing silver, using a brush to paint the tamiya clear paint on for the metallic effect, and then painting the other parts back to leadbelcher painting the gun and doing a wash of nuln oil.
Could that work?
I'd prime black, then do a base of Leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil, then drybrush Leadbelcher, then do either a light drybrush of Runefang Steel or just an edge highlight depending on how shiny you want your death robutts to be.
This is basically what I'm trying to do. I didn't paint this, I found it on Google.
If that's what you're trying to go for, prime black, base Leadbelcher, wash with Nuln Oil, do an incredibly heavy drybrush of Runefang Steel (maybe do a lighter drybrush of Runefang Steel/white mix), then hit with the tint/glaze of your choice.
Working nights right now and with the messed up weather it's been dead enough I've brought in some mini's to build on my ongoing master plan to build then prime then paint everything I own.
Last night's job? Built the remaining Harlequins I own and finally attempted that upright Techpriest conversion...
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I like what you’ve done with the cane hand. Very “excuse me, but I think you’ll find that the Anzion ‘theory’ is more of a ‘conjecture’ with little to no supporting evidence.”
and some Long Fangs I painted in October but forgot to take photos of
3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
+19
TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
A different, worse colour
I'm on a roll with finishing up half painted marines I've accumulated over the years
+16
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited February 2019
Purple
Next pass of varnish over the newly mounted armor plates.
While I certainly can't paint at the level some of you do here, I am really proud of this project so far. I've learned some really valuable lessons (like how to use wash correctly near flat surfaces) and I still think I'm going to have a Knight at the end that's plenty worthy of the table top. Really just one major set of painting to finish before I mount his top shell and call it a done deal. Super excited to finish something this big.
Finally assembling the Ork vehicles I got for Christmas, and the Rukkatruck Squigbuggy may be my favorite model ever. There's so much cool detail.
That said, having not done many subassemblies.. am I fine painting subassemblies and then using superglue to stick the orks/squigs/bits on afterwards when everything is painted? Is that how most people do it or does the superglue screw up the paint at all?
Next pass of varnish over the newly mounted armor plates.
While I certainly can't paint at the level some of you do here, I am really proud of this project so far. I've learned some really valuable lessons (like how to use wash correctly near flat surfaces) and I still think I'm going to have a Knight at the end that's plenty worthy of the table top. Really just one major set of painting to finish before I mount his top shell and call it a done deal. Super excited to finish something this big.
so, i'm currently painting a magewrath throne. i've already diverged from the box art:
in that i don't quite get what the red shading on the stone is supposed to be and my greenshade wash has left me a different colour anyway.
WIP:
where do i go from here? i'd like to shoot for a build up of moss and streaked water damage kind of an affair with this thing.
+3
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
P. sure the “red shading” is meant to be worn paint. Remember that the fad for ‘bare’ statues that just use the materials’s own colours and properties is relatively recent. All those famous renaissance and earlier marble statues you’ve heard of used to be painted.
Next pass of varnish over the newly mounted armor plates.
While I certainly can't paint at the level some of you do here, I am really proud of this project so far. I've learned some really valuable lessons (like how to use wash correctly near flat surfaces) and I still think I'm going to have a Knight at the end that's plenty worthy of the table top. Really just one major set of painting to finish before I mount his top shell and call it a done deal. Super excited to finish something this big.
How did you end up doing the red and blue panels?
Extremely carefully, by hand, with thinned down paint and a lot of "oops" clean up. This is not the way I would recommend. If I had to do it over again I would likely cut out a mask or tape up the edges and paint it that way. The gold edging is the real pain in the ass, getting it to look clean. I eventually just got it to a "good enough" point where it looks good from table distance but if you got up close you'd see some obvious flaws in the edging.
So I'm trying some magenta on these here chaps, and I cant decide if mixing in the pale pink on the left, or the more fluo stuff on the right dude works better. Or if there is a better route to go down? Just look at the ridges on the shoulder pads.
I feel like the left side reads easier at a distance, but I lose out on it being quite so saturated.
J on
0
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Purple
@Dr_Keenbean has some opinions on magenta. I'm sure he can help you out.
0
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
So I'm trying some magenta on these here chaps, and I cant decide if mixing in the pale pink on the left, or the more fluo stuff on the right dude works better. Or if there is a better route to go down? Just look at the ridges on the shoulder pads.
I feel like the left side reads easier at a distance, but I lose out on it being quite so saturated.
The grain of salt that is "I'm looking at your photo on a monitor that's probably calibrated differently than real life" should be taken with this: The right one looks way better to me. You might be right about how easily one or the other pops at a distance, but I really love how that right one looks as you're showing it.
Posts
hopefully it shrinks down when it dries
http://www.waronthetable.com
Berserkers made from WFB beastmen and chaos warriors.
With the new CA pointsdrop for dreads and helbrutes, I had to make a few more of the critters.
Here's a stock brawly Helbrute with melee weapons and double combibolters ( rotor cannon)
And a double chainfist Contemptor lookin for trouble.
http://www.waronthetable.com
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I have to wonder how often moms have found an airbrush in their kids room and thought it was a crack pipe.
"Well. yeah.."...
I dated a girl who freaked out once when she saw thermal paste on my coffee table.
I am still trying to figure out what I want to do with my AdMech kill team. I wanted to paint them up like the taken from Destiny but I'm not sure I can really manage something like that and was considering going kind of simple as far as painting something kind of normal but with unusual colors.
I really need to decide on this.
Destiny taken pic for reference
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Well that was easy, since when I startes looking, they pretty much said 'fits X, Y, and Z' air brushes. :biggrin:
Last time I'm ever cleaning paint off models. I hate this nonsense.
I want to do a metallic color on the armor plates on my Necrons and I'm trying to figure out the easiest way. I was thinking of priming with leadbelcher, airbrushing the whole thing silver, using a brush to paint the tamiya clear paint on for the metallic effect, and then painting the other parts back to leadbelcher painting the gun and doing a wash of nuln oil.
Could that work?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I think that this size of model is about perfect when it comes to the balance between nicely detailed and not too overwhelming, I sometimes find myself getting daunted and/or bored when it comes to painting up the very big kits.
I'd prime black, then do a base of Leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil, then drybrush Leadbelcher, then do either a light drybrush of Runefang Steel or just an edge highlight depending on how shiny you want your death robutts to be.
This is basically what I'm trying to do. I didn't paint this, I found it on Google.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I have most of the armor painted. I need to paint his top shell still. The shoulder armor isn't as nice of a paint job as I'd like, but it will work. I think I did a much better job on his leg plates, much smoother coats. I've gloss coated his skeleton already to seal in that paint. I'm going to gloss coat the whole model again once I have the armor plates on. Then matte coat it as the finisher. Probably about a week of work left at the pace I paint. Really excited to finish this project. This is definitely the largest, most detailed, model I've ever painted.
???
If that's what you're trying to go for, prime black, base Leadbelcher, wash with Nuln Oil, do an incredibly heavy drybrush of Runefang Steel (maybe do a lighter drybrush of Runefang Steel/white mix), then hit with the tint/glaze of your choice.
Last night's job? Built the remaining Harlequins I own and finally attempted that upright Techpriest conversion...
Pretty happy with how he turned out.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Some super delicate cutting paid off and luckily he didn't lose any digits.
I also picture that the mechadendrite is making the same pose due to some sympathetic nervous response.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
While I certainly can't paint at the level some of you do here, I am really proud of this project so far. I've learned some really valuable lessons (like how to use wash correctly near flat surfaces) and I still think I'm going to have a Knight at the end that's plenty worthy of the table top. Really just one major set of painting to finish before I mount his top shell and call it a done deal. Super excited to finish something this big.
That said, having not done many subassemblies.. am I fine painting subassemblies and then using superglue to stick the orks/squigs/bits on afterwards when everything is painted? Is that how most people do it or does the superglue screw up the paint at all?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
How did you end up doing the red and blue panels?
in that i don't quite get what the red shading on the stone is supposed to be and my greenshade wash has left me a different colour anyway.
WIP:
where do i go from here? i'd like to shoot for a build up of moss and streaked water damage kind of an affair with this thing.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Extremely carefully, by hand, with thinned down paint and a lot of "oops" clean up. This is not the way I would recommend. If I had to do it over again I would likely cut out a mask or tape up the edges and paint it that way. The gold edging is the real pain in the ass, getting it to look clean. I eventually just got it to a "good enough" point where it looks good from table distance but if you got up close you'd see some obvious flaws in the edging.
Red does make it go faster
Going to do a final weathering pass before getting it on its base.
We're going for a hard tundra look as seen by one of my teammates Broodlord
I feel like the left side reads easier at a distance, but I lose out on it being quite so saturated.
The grain of salt that is "I'm looking at your photo on a monitor that's probably calibrated differently than real life" should be taken with this: The right one looks way better to me. You might be right about how easily one or the other pops at a distance, but I really love how that right one looks as you're showing it.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?