P. sure the “red shading” is meant to be worn paint. Remember that the fad for ‘bare’ statues that just use the materials’s own colours and properties is relatively recent. All those famous renaissance and earlier marble statues you’ve heard of used to be painted.
Huh, and here I was thinking it was meant to be blood spray. It looks like something a vampire count would sit on. I mean, I knew about the painted statues, but didn't make the mental connection that this mini was trying for historical accuracy.
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I think the biggest clue for me was the way they detailed the gold ‘leaf’ trim with chips rather than a fade.
Besides, they have Blood for the Blood God for when they want to do arterial spray.
Ok, a rather quick trip out to pick up GW pink horror. I think it falls somewhere between the two.
+ VMC squid pink
+ GW pink horror
+ Scale75 acid pink
Painting is hard you guys. Also scale75 paints are strange.
J on
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
I like 2 & 3. I mean, I'm probably the worst for saying it, but if you did #2 with a bit of #3 just for a thin band somewhere near the top, that'd probably be the best-est.
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Purple
Been working on this on-and-off for a few weeks. Been learning allot about the order in which I should be spraying colors (hint: not bone on the body followed by black on the treads) and I'm looking forward to weathering it up once I'm done with all the fucking yellow.
So much yellow:
The unpainted side:
I'm still debating on what to do with the treads. I know for sure I'm going to be using some texture stuff to make dirt clumps for effect (and to cover up some noticeable casting/cleaning mistakes), but I'm not sure if I want to go all-out and rust up the treads like I've been seeing a bunch of ther people do, or what. Guess I'll burn that bridge when I get there.
+6
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Double-post, but it's weird you bring up Scale75 and then minutes later while browsing Kickstarter on a lark I see them for the first time. It's ... weird? ... how many times they state how creamy their paints are. Is that a good thing? Do you want your miniature paints to be creamy? I sure didn't think I did.
I haven't used them much. The ones I have are from the FX Fluor set, so they are all mental colours. They dry really really matt. The pink dries much lighter than it appears going on, which was what is strange to me.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
But J, you haven't remarked upon whether or not they are creamy.
I will say that their presentation is phenomenal at selling a premium product, but also ~$45 for 6 tubes of paint is such a nope. Would love to try them as a curiosity, but man, shouldn't be surprised that people are creating - essentially - designer brands for people who paint (or "paint" or "will someday totally get around to painting those") miniatures.
But J, you haven't remarked upon whether or not they are creamy.
I will say that their presentation is phenomenal at selling a premium product, but also ~$45 for 6 tubes of paint is such a nope. Would love to try them as a curiosity, but man, shouldn't be surprised that people are creating - essentially - designer brands for people who paint (or "paint" or "will someday totally get around to painting those") miniatures.
From what I saw of the kickstarter, those are not the miniature paints, those are the artist tube paints. So they likely have a different texture/thickness to them. Full body/soft body etc.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
Scale75 paints are my current favorite for a lot of cases. But as @J mentions, they are weird. A wet palette is almost a must as they are very thick and dry quite fast. They contain a tremendous amount of talc as a matting agent and they extremely matte. But god damn their metallics are amazing as are their inks and once you learn to manage the properties of the paint they have few equals.
They also have a "Fantasy & Games" line that is much less matte and has probably the best black paint I've ever used in my life.
I would classify them as a more advanced paint but well worth taking for a spin. Luckily for me there's a store just north of Baltimore that's like a painter's wet dream that carries both lines along with damn near every other miniature paint known to man.
But J, you haven't remarked upon whether or not they are creamy.
I will say that their presentation is phenomenal at selling a premium product, but also ~$45 for 6 tubes of paint is such a nope. Would love to try them as a curiosity, but man, shouldn't be surprised that people are creating - essentially - designer brands for people who paint (or "paint" or "will someday totally get around to painting those") miniatures.
From what I saw of the kickstarter, those are not the miniature paints, those are the artist tube paints. So they likely have a different texture/thickness to them. Full body/soft body etc.
No, they're making this new stuff in metal tubes as a premium product. If you read any of the literature on there or look at any of the photos it's still 1000% geared towards miniatures painters, though they drop notes about how you could "really use it for anything" (I'm certainly paraphrasing - they don't insinuate you could paint lawn furniture with it :P ).
Scale75 paints are my current favorite for a lot of cases. But as @J mentions, they are weird. A wet palette is almost a must as they are very thick and dry quite fast. They contain a tremendous amount of talc as a matting agent and they extremely matte. But god damn their metallics are amazing as are their inks and once you learn to manage the properties of the paint they have few equals.
They also have a "Fantasy & Games" line that is much less matte and has probably the best black paint I've ever used in my life.
I would classify them as a more advanced paint but well worth taking for a spin. Luckily for me there's a store just north of Baltimore that's like a painter's wet dream that carries both lines along with damn near every other miniature paint known to man.
Yeah, yeah, rub in your ease of access living near east-coast metropolitan areas. ;P The breakdown is appreciated, though yeah, I strongly doubt I'll have any such access in the near future.
Next pass of varnish over the newly mounted armor plates.
To hijack this post a little, I'm looking for something a little different than metallic and nuln oil for a knight chassis. Do people have an opinion on what would be a good brown shade to add to the mix, and then lightly drybrushed? Agrax Earthshade? Serraphim Sepia? Reikland Fleshshade?
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
Feels like they're going for the Abteilung vibe, but acrylic. Like they're focused less on gaming miniatures and more on busts, scale models, etc.
Feels like they're going for the Abteilung vibe, but acrylic. Like they're focused less on gaming miniatures and more on busts, scale models, etc.
I'm actually kind of intrigued.
Apparently the website isn't quite loading properly for me, but the one picture I could see of a tank makes me think those are oils for scale models? This would be an interesting parallel line more for our side of the hobby.
Next pass of varnish over the newly mounted armor plates.
To hijack this post a little, I'm looking for something a little different than metallic and nuln oil for a knight chassis. Do people have an opinion on what would be a good brown shade to add to the mix, and then lightly drybrushed? Agrax Earthshade? Serraphim Sepia? Reikland Fleshshade?
I've heard earthshade suggested if you want a more oily look. I used earthshade on the pistons (can't really see it in that photo) after painting them stormhost silver first. So the pistons look much cleaner than the rest of the chassis, except for the top and bottom with a light shade of earthshade to look like oil. I'll try and get a close up of a piston when I get home tonight.
Anyone have a recommendation for an airbrush friendly colorshift paint?
I picked up a couple bottles from some shop on ebay that looked cool, and when trying them out, even thinned with airbrush thinner, they completely clogged up my airbrush within moments of spraying it. I had to completely strip and soak the components to get the gun to run clean again.
I'd like some colorshift effects on my Harlequins, but I don't want to risk screwing up my airbrush again.
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Yeah, uh, coloushift paints kinda rely on (relatively) huge mica flakes to work; I’m not sure ‘airbrush compatibility’ is even possible. At least not for regular dual action gravity fed ones. I think you’re going to have to try an external mix brush of some kind before you can get results.
I used those color shift paints on my T'au and they look great. My lazy ass still needs to put a coat of varnish on and finish painting but the initial look is great.
Example:
The pathfinders came out a bit undesirable but that was because I messed up during airbrushing.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Man, when I finish with my current Dropfleet stuff, I think I need to order one or two of those and do some mecha kits with them. My raftclans aurun from Kotobukiya is now begging me for some bitchin' two-tones ...
How do I get this foot to fit right on this Redemptor?
I have the left foot in place, but I'm not sure how to hold the other foot in position while I get the front toe on correctly.
Very carefully...
It was a pain in the ass. I ended up gluing the front toe on at the exact angle in the manual then very carefully holding down the right fit while holding down the toe of the left foot while placing the legs in the slots. The entire leg assembly of the Redemptor was a huge pain in the ass.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited February 2019
Purple
My biggest problem was I glued the legs in place first, and that was a mistake.
Still, I got it. I also glued the right shoulder piece wrong because of the illustration in the instructions. I swear it looked right until I went to the next step. And I didn't notice till I had left it to dry for a few hours with plastic glue.
I had to take my hobby knife and cut it the girdle at the seam, flip it around and reglue it, so I could attach the onslaught cannon and shoulder guard.
valhalla130 on
+1
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited February 2019
Purple
Amazing model though now that he's done. My intercessors and librarian are on tap after the Knight, for Kill Team purposes, but he's up on the painting block once my KT roster is painted up.
Cross post from the 40K thread. A Primaris test marine for a kill team.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I like the overall look of the old dreads better. Much more like a walking coffin.
I'm kind of split; I prefer the more functional legs on the redemptor (or the contemptor for that matter), and I could go either way on the old dread's heavy weapon arm that's basically just a sideways turret or the redemptor's megaman/samus-style arm cannon. But I definitely prefer the torso design of the classic dreadnoughts, and it's not just the extra detail on the front plates. The fully assembled contemptor just looks a little too much like a giant marine imho, so I'm not wild about that one either, but it's probably my favorite stock model just by virtue of not being my least liked in every category. My ideal would be a redemptor-sized hybrid of the classic body design and modern legs.
How am I supposed to take the old dreads seriously now?
I had the exact same thought.
Thanks, this is a really handy size comparison reference image.
It'd take GW or an FLGS' customer base to put it together, but I'd love to see a side-by-side comparison image that ran the gamut of the Imperium in wh40k scale:
ratling
that Necromunda squad model
guardsman
sister of battle
catachan
scout marine
sicarian
space marine
ogryn
scout primaris
dominus
terminator
primaris
kataphron
centurion
inceptor
aggressor
kastelan robot
that Blackstone Fortress Iron Man model
dreadnought
contemptor
ironstrider
sentinel
penitent engine
karamazov's throne/walker
redemptor
dreadknight
armiger
knight
knight castellan
warhound titan
reaver titan
Edit: sort of like this image for Mechwarrior Online (spoiled for ~3500x875 image size):
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
Holy shit I did it...
He's done! far from perfect, I can see some mistakes just in this picture, but I think he looks plenty good from table top...and I'm damn proud of the amount of work I put in to him. Probably will still do some transfers and he still needs a matte coat...but it feels good to be basically done with such a big model.
So I finally got around to building a primitive lightbox, and have started trying to take pictures of my Blood Bowl miniatures. Maybe I have the wrong camera, but taking crisp photos is hard.
I think they turned out ok for a first go, anyway! I started by trying to catalog the first full team I ever painted. They're a kitbashed crew of Goblins made out of old WHFB Goblin warriors, zombie limbs, River Trolls, some light sculpting, and a heap of bits from all over the place. I've repainted bits, rebased them, added and removed players, the whole shebang, and they're currently my (champion!) League team. I was kind of going for a broke-as-dirt Blood Bowl team from a slimy bayou.
Several more close ups (if this is too many photos please let me know!):
those are all awesome, but i especially love the dead bird doom diver.
also i dont remember why i had 15 written on my butt but please dont post nude photos of me without my permission
Posts
Huh, and here I was thinking it was meant to be blood spray. It looks like something a vampire count would sit on. I mean, I knew about the painted statues, but didn't make the mental connection that this mini was trying for historical accuracy.
Besides, they have Blood for the Blood God for when they want to do arterial spray.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
+ VMC squid pink
+ GW pink horror
+ Scale75 acid pink
Painting is hard you guys. Also scale75 paints are strange.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
So much yellow:
The unpainted side:
I'm still debating on what to do with the treads. I know for sure I'm going to be using some texture stuff to make dirt clumps for effect (and to cover up some noticeable casting/cleaning mistakes), but I'm not sure if I want to go all-out and rust up the treads like I've been seeing a bunch of ther people do, or what. Guess I'll burn that bridge when I get there.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I will say that their presentation is phenomenal at selling a premium product, but also ~$45 for 6 tubes of paint is such a nope. Would love to try them as a curiosity, but man, shouldn't be surprised that people are creating - essentially - designer brands for people who paint (or "paint" or "will someday totally get around to painting those") miniatures.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
From what I saw of the kickstarter, those are not the miniature paints, those are the artist tube paints. So they likely have a different texture/thickness to them. Full body/soft body etc.
They also have a "Fantasy & Games" line that is much less matte and has probably the best black paint I've ever used in my life.
I would classify them as a more advanced paint but well worth taking for a spin. Luckily for me there's a store just north of Baltimore that's like a painter's wet dream that carries both lines along with damn near every other miniature paint known to man.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Yeah, yeah, rub in your ease of access living near east-coast metropolitan areas. ;P The breakdown is appreciated, though yeah, I strongly doubt I'll have any such access in the near future.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
To hijack this post a little, I'm looking for something a little different than metallic and nuln oil for a knight chassis. Do people have an opinion on what would be a good brown shade to add to the mix, and then lightly drybrushed? Agrax Earthshade? Serraphim Sepia? Reikland Fleshshade?
I'm actually kind of intrigued.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I've heard earthshade suggested if you want a more oily look. I used earthshade on the pistons (can't really see it in that photo) after painting them stormhost silver first. So the pistons look much cleaner than the rest of the chassis, except for the top and bottom with a light shade of earthshade to look like oil. I'll try and get a close up of a piston when I get home tonight.
More
I picked up a couple bottles from some shop on ebay that looked cool, and when trying them out, even thinned with airbrush thinner, they completely clogged up my airbrush within moments of spraying it. I had to completely strip and soak the components to get the gun to run clean again.
I'd like some colorshift effects on my Harlequins, but I don't want to risk screwing up my airbrush again.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
These are pretty much exactly that.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I used those color shift paints on my T'au and they look great. My lazy ass still needs to put a coat of varnish on and finish painting but the initial look is great.
Example:
The pathfinders came out a bit undesirable but that was because I messed up during airbrushing.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I have the left foot in place, but I'm not sure how to hold the other foot in position while I get the front toe on correctly.
Very carefully...
It was a pain in the ass. I ended up gluing the front toe on at the exact angle in the manual then very carefully holding down the right fit while holding down the toe of the left foot while placing the legs in the slots. The entire leg assembly of the Redemptor was a huge pain in the ass.
Still, I got it. I also glued the right shoulder piece wrong because of the illustration in the instructions. I swear it looked right until I went to the next step. And I didn't notice till I had left it to dry for a few hours with plastic glue.
I had to take my hobby knife and cut it the girdle at the seam, flip it around and reglue it, so I could attach the onslaught cannon and shoulder guard.
I've been saying this since the day contemptors were revealed.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I had the exact same thought.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm kind of split; I prefer the more functional legs on the redemptor (or the contemptor for that matter), and I could go either way on the old dread's heavy weapon arm that's basically just a sideways turret or the redemptor's megaman/samus-style arm cannon. But I definitely prefer the torso design of the classic dreadnoughts, and it's not just the extra detail on the front plates. The fully assembled contemptor just looks a little too much like a giant marine imho, so I'm not wild about that one either, but it's probably my favorite stock model just by virtue of not being my least liked in every category. My ideal would be a redemptor-sized hybrid of the classic body design and modern legs.
Thanks, this is a really handy size comparison reference image.
It'd take GW or an FLGS' customer base to put it together, but I'd love to see a side-by-side comparison image that ran the gamut of the Imperium in wh40k scale:
Edit: sort of like this image for Mechwarrior Online (spoiled for ~3500x875 image size):
He's done! far from perfect, I can see some mistakes just in this picture, but I think he looks plenty good from table top...and I'm damn proud of the amount of work I put in to him. Probably will still do some transfers and he still needs a matte coat...but it feels good to be basically done with such a big model.
I think they turned out ok for a first go, anyway! I started by trying to catalog the first full team I ever painted. They're a kitbashed crew of Goblins made out of old WHFB Goblin warriors, zombie limbs, River Trolls, some light sculpting, and a heap of bits from all over the place. I've repainted bits, rebased them, added and removed players, the whole shebang, and they're currently my (champion!) League team. I was kind of going for a broke-as-dirt Blood Bowl team from a slimy bayou.
Several more close ups (if this is too many photos please let me know!):
also i dont remember why i had 15 written on my butt but please dont post nude photos of me without my permission
feel worse for the assistant coach painting numbers on the hooligan's buttcheeks before each drive