"It's okay for us to be shitbags because there wasn't a lot of editing, and oh yeah I guess one of them was kind of racist" is all I'm getting from that.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
Ok so I'm looking to put together a new pc in the near future. The goal would be to keep things under 2k USD.
I don't need a new monitor at the moment. My current one is not 4k, it's 1440p with I don't believe any special sync options.
I do output games to my current tv fairly often with an HDMI cable, the current TV is only 1080p.
BUT, if I build a new pc I'd like it to last quite a while with the ability to make incremental upgrades over time possibly. So if the monitor or TV were to end up supporting 4k in a couple years then I would want the pc to be able to do something with that. So I understand much of this is overkill for my current usage, but will hopefully be of long term value.
It looks like SSDs have gotten much cheaper so a 1TB SSD would probably be the ticket and a backup disk drive for storage.
I'd probably want a bluray/dvd drive on occassion but it'd probably be a rare enough event that getting an external one would be feasible instead of needing it built in. So that can probably be a later thing.
Here's a rough so far idea. I'm not sure if I'd be better off dropping down to the 2060. It seems like the $ value vs performance may be worth it.
But I also have a tough time telling the difference between the various releases and there weren't a lot of opinions on the 2060 cards. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WFdhXP
I'm also highly unsure on the case. The one I added in there seems nice but also has some notes about being potentially cramped and I'd rather not add to my build difficulty.
Here's my current case (but since I'm replacing essentially everything I'll probably leave this one intact and build the new one from scratch in a new case). https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139010
What other extraneous things do I need to get? Thermal paste etc? I also have not used a water cooler before.
Usually when I'd build these I'd aim for the breaking point where the performance gains by dollar hit a sudden sharp dip. But video cards now have hit a weird ratio on that, it's hard to tell where that spot is for me now.
Does this also need a separate network card?
HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
Cry me a river, Verge.
They could have asked the youtubers for a comment before you did the strikes, and now they're upset people about attacking their integrity without reaching out to them first?
Moving on, this video seems to suggest more vram may be better for GPUs. The TLDR is that the 1080ti's 11GB seems to be better than the 2080's 8GB.
It's also interesting to undervolting results for the Radeon VII, but a stock product should have these results from the get go instead of having to do the tuning yourself. Granted it doesn't look like much effort, just annoying that the end product seems to have been rushed.
Ok so I'm looking to put together a new pc in the near future. The goal would be to keep things under 2k USD.
I don't need a new monitor at the moment. My current one is not 4k, it's 1440p with I don't believe any special sync options.
I do output games to my current tv fairly often with an HDMI cable, the current TV is only 1080p.
BUT, if I build a new pc I'd like it to last quite a while with the ability to make incremental upgrades over time possibly. So if the monitor or TV were to end up supporting 4k in a couple years then I would want the pc to be able to do something with that. So I understand much of this is overkill for my current usage, but will hopefully be of long term value.
It looks like SSDs have gotten much cheaper so a 1TB SSD would probably be the ticket and a backup disk drive for storage.
I'd probably want a bluray/dvd drive on occassion but it'd probably be a rare enough event that getting an external one would be feasible instead of needing it built in. So that can probably be a later thing.
Here's a rough so far idea. I'm not sure if I'd be better off dropping down to the 2060. It seems like the $ value vs performance may be worth it.
But I also have a tough time telling the difference between the various releases and there weren't a lot of opinions on the 2060 cards. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WFdhXP
I'm also highly unsure on the case. The one I added in there seems nice but also has some notes about being potentially cramped and I'd rather not add to my build difficulty.
Here's my current case (but since I'm replacing essentially everything I'll probably leave this one intact and build the new one from scratch in a new case). https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139010
What other extraneous things do I need to get? Thermal paste etc? I also have not used a water cooler before.
Usually when I'd build these I'd aim for the breaking point where the performance gains by dollar hit a sudden sharp dip. But video cards now have hit a weird ratio on that, it's hard to tell where that spot is for me now.
Does this also need a separate network card?
I'll try to hit all the points you mentioned, apologies if I miss any!
-4k is nice for general pc use and photo editing etc... but even top end cards have trouble pushing that resolution in games. I would say a high refresh rate 1440p monitor is a better bet these days.
-All/Most GPU's will allow you to output to your TV's resolution and if you go to a 4K tv later it will still work (See point above about performance @ 4k)
-You don't need thermal paste but it's not expensive and why not.
-Water coolers (i.e. AIO's) are easy peasy to install and work pretty well generally. The main advantage as I see it is how clean the build looks with them.
-You will not need an ethernet card
regarding the build itself:
-32GB of ram is a bit overkill and that money is MUCH better spent on a better GPU.
-The meshify C is a great case and I wouldn't change that unless you really like the look of something else in the same price range.
Here's what I would probably do.
Note: **you could wait for such as new NVIDIA non-RTX GPU's and the new Ryzen chips.
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
edited February 2019
So I had this mostly done, but Aridhol did a good job with recommending most of the same things I would have. I'll keep my notes but basically this is a seconded post.
Ok so I'm looking to put together a new pc in the near future. The goal would be to keep things under 2k USD.
I don't need a new monitor at the moment. My current one is not 4k, it's 1440p with I don't believe any special sync options.
I do output games to my current tv fairly often with an HDMI cable, the current TV is only 1080p.
BUT, if I build a new pc I'd like it to last quite a while with the ability to make incremental upgrades over time possibly. So if the monitor or TV were to end up supporting 4k in a couple years then I would want the pc to be able to do something with that. So I understand much of this is overkill for my current usage, but will hopefully be of long term value.
It looks like SSDs have gotten much cheaper so a 1TB SSD would probably be the ticket and a backup disk drive for storage.
I'd probably want a bluray/dvd drive on occassion but it'd probably be a rare enough event that getting an external one would be feasible instead of needing it built in. So that can probably be a later thing.
Here's a rough so far idea. I'm not sure if I'd be better off dropping down to the 2060. It seems like the $ value vs performance may be worth it.
But I also have a tough time telling the difference between the various releases and there weren't a lot of opinions on the 2060 cards. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WFdhXP
Honestly, if you're looking for some future proofing and running at 1440P, it looks like a 2080 is a good sweet spot currently (at least based on GN's bench-marking of the new Metro w/ RTX). The performance increase from a 2060 to 2070 is pretty weak, but the 2070 to a 2080 is significant. Do you need 32 GB for productivity work? I think I would drop one of the RAM kits and push closer to that 2K budget you were talking about to accomplish this (or drop down to the 2060 for very solid 1080p gaming, and upgrade the GPU again at the next release cycle).
I'm also highly unsure on the case. The one I added in there seems nice but also has some notes about being potentially cramped and I'd rather not add to my build difficulty.
Here's my current case (but since I'm replacing essentially everything I'll probably leave this one intact and build the new one from scratch in a new case). https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139010
Meshify C is dope! There are lots of good cases out there, and this is one of them I believe. Good airflow, good looks, good features for a relatively low cost.
What other extraneous things do I need to get? Thermal paste etc? I also have not used a water cooler before.
Usually when I'd build these I'd aim for the breaking point where the performance gains by dollar hit a sudden sharp dip. But video cards now have hit a weird ratio on that, it's hard to tell where that spot is for me now.
Does this also need a separate network card?
Typically most AIO water coolers come pre-applied with thermal paste! If you're not pushing aggressive overclocks, the stock stuff is perfectly fine. New stuff is not costly however, so whatever floats your boat. Motherboards these days do a fine job with on-board networking and audio, and usually isn't a good place for budget allocation.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/knynV6
I left the Samsung SSD, and got some RGB RAM on your motherboards QVL, as well as a slightly more costly 2080.... VERY similar build to Aridhol's however.
BouwsT on
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Thanks, I've built some computers in the past, but it's been quite a while now. I will probably not being doing any custom overclocking etc.
The RAM is probably fine at 16, no special need for it. Anything else special in the build process I should be factoring in? Do I need to like replace the stock fans in the case or anything weird like that.
Also, if you have no optical drive, how do you get Windows on there? Maybe I should keep the external drive in the initial purchase set.
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Thanks, I've built some computers in the past, but it's been quite a while now. I will probably not being doing any custom overclocking etc.
The RAM is probably fine at 16, no special need for it. Anything else special in the build process I should be factoring in? Do I need to like replace the stock fans in the case or anything weird like that.
Also, if you have no optical drive, how do you get Windows on there? Maybe I should keep the external drive in the initial purchase set.
Nah, stick with what the cooler and case came with, add more if you need. More fans=more noise.
Edit: Definitely do a little overclocking however, that cooler gives you lots of overhead, and there are MANY useful guides on overclocking the Ryzen CPU's. They have lots of room for improvement fresh out of the box, and kind of need a little overclocking to compete with Intel currently.
Double Edit: Continuing to think on the fans, the case comes with two. Take the current exhaust fan, re-install it up front. Then use the liquid cooler installed in the roof of the case as the exhaust.
BouwsT on
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Thanks, I've built some computers in the past, but it's been quite a while now. I will probably not being doing any custom overclocking etc.
The RAM is probably fine at 16, no special need for it. Anything else special in the build process I should be factoring in? Do I need to like replace the stock fans in the case or anything weird like that.
Also, if you have no optical drive, how do you get Windows on there? Maybe I should keep the external drive in the initial purchase set.
Ah ok, that makes sense. USB drives were a lot smaller and less common when I built my last computer.
Two more questions. And thanks for all the help.
Is there a case to be made for using an Intel cpu instead? I'm not particularly attached to either brand.
So far with 3 different build reccomendations for the Ryzen, everyone's suggested a different mobo.
What are the features I should be deciding between on those? Relatedly, what's the difference between the B350, X370, and X470 boards? It seems like they all take the Ryzen 7 Processor.
Basically The Verge made a "How to Build a $2k PC" video and completely screwed it up. About 4-5 months ago.
Just this past week, they started issuing copyright strikes against YouTubers who critiqued / responded to the video when it first released. (One being a well-known reviewer -- who is half Asian -- who has a stereotypical alter ego "brother" with a thick Asian accent that pandered the Verge vid)
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
They could have asked the youtubers for a comment before you did the strikes, and now they're upset people about attacking their integrity without reaching out to them first?
Moving on, this video seems to suggest more vram may be better for GPUs. The TLDR is that the 1080ti's 11GB seems to be better than the 2080's 8GB.
It's also interesting to undervolting results for the Radeon VII, but a stock product should have these results from the get go instead of having to do the tuning yourself. Granted it doesn't look like much effort, just annoying that the end product seems to have been rushed.
More VRAM is better for higher resolution textures, generally. If you have no desire to go to 4K gaming then 8gb will serve.
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Ah ok, that makes sense. USB drives were a lot smaller and less common when I built my last computer.
Two more questions. And thanks for all the help.
Is there a case to be made for using an Intel cpu instead? I'm not particularly attached to either brand.
So far with 3 different build reccomendations for the Ryzen, everyone's suggested a different mobo.
What are the features I should be deciding between on those? Relatedly, what's the difference between the B350, X370, and X470 boards? It seems like they all take the Ryzen 7 Processor.
Edit: Poor reading comprehension.
1. The case is not different, but the motherboard and CPU would change. Honestly, don't let me scare you away from the Ryzen though, it's a great CPU, and overclocking is really REALLY easy. So much easier than it used to be. A mild overclock can be achieved with very little effort on your part, and you just might feel like a #hackerman adjusting the fields in the BIOS. SO easy. Wow, a case to be made, not the literal PC case, Bouws. Intel price:performance is generally slightly stronger in video games, Ryzen stronger in multi-tasking/productivity. There's been a big push on to give Ryzen a shot lately however because Intel has been king for a long time, and they haven't been giving people a compelling reason to stick. Competition is good, so if you have no preference, I'd still recommend a Ryzen, but that's just my own bent... I'd defer to the thread if someone has a compelling Intel build they'd like to put forward.
2. With a 2nd gen Ryzen, you really should stick with your B450 or an X470 board as they are flashed at the BIOS to accept the Ryzen 2 chips. The 300 series MOBO's definitely can accept a 2nd gen chip, but they may require a BIOS reflash (honestly, not hard, but not worth the effort given the cost difference). I think given your use case a B450 board will serve you fine.
BouwsT on
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Ah ok, that makes sense. USB drives were a lot smaller and less common when I built my last computer.
Two more questions. And thanks for all the help.
Is there a case to be made for using an Intel cpu instead? I'm not particularly attached to either brand.
So far with 3 different build reccomendations for the Ryzen, everyone's suggested a different mobo.
What are the features I should be deciding between on those? Relatedly, what's the difference between the B350, X370, and X470 boards? It seems like they all take the Ryzen 7 Processor.
1) Ryzen is generally most cost effective than the equivalent Intel chips, trading raw CPU top end for more cores, leading to better workstation (editing/design/etc) performance. Since most games are single threaded applications, Intel do (moderately) better at the top end of gaming. This may be changing if the leaked specs of the new Ryzen 3 chips are correct. If you want to do bleeding edge overclocking, a K version Intel processor is going to be your answer. If not, honestly you probably wouldn't notice a much, if any, difference between a higher end Ryzen CPU and an equivilent non-K Intel at 1080p or even 1440p.
2) For the motherboards: X vs B vs A is the "tier" of the board and the features. X and B have overclocking, A doesn't. X vs B is usually a bit closer, with more USB or StoreMi. The 470 is just a tech refresh of the 370 for the 2nd gen Ryzen chips (expect us getting a 570 sometime this summer or fall depending on when Ryzen 3 comes out). It does have some things like better USB ports, but the biggest thing is out of the box support for a 2nd Gen chip, which you might have to flash your 370 for.
Did some updating. I'm basically at that 2k cap at this point once taxes get dumped in etc.
The added perk/expense I'm waffling on now is whether to spring for the fancy M.2 interface SSD or not. When I got a small SSD for my last build to put the OS on I was amazed at how much faster everything was. But after a while it didn't really have room for anything other than the OS itself. So most games I ran off regular drives. It sounds like the newer M2 drives have an added speed boost on top of that. Question is if I want to kick in a $100 for that. Right now I'm leaning yes evern though one commentor mentioned it was a bit stressful to install. The other side is just being able to run things straight off SSD in general may be all I really need and SATA 6 is actually plenty fast already. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HfLmzY
Also once I tipped over into the idea of I'm actually gonnna buy something this year, I have gotten nothing done at work today.
Did some updating. I'm basically at that 2k cap at this point once taxes get dumped in etc.
The added perk/expense I'm waffling on now is whether to spring for the fancy M.2 interface SSD or not. When I got a small SSD for my last build to put the OS on I was amazed at how much faster everything was. But after a while it didn't really have room for anything other than the OS itself. So most games I ran off regular drives. It sounds like the newer M2 drives have an added speed boost on top of that. Question is if I want to kick in a $100 for that. Right now I'm leaning yes evern though one commentor mentioned it was a bit stressful to install. The other side is just being able to run things straight off SSD in general may be all I really need and SATA 6 is actually plenty fast already. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HfLmzY
Also once I tipped over into the idea of I'm actually gonnna buy something this year, I have gotten nothing done at work today.
Sort of. M.2 is the socket standard, NVME is the transfer standard (the low end M.2 cards transfer using SATA 6). That being said you don't need to run wire or power for it, so it's not an awful idea, as the prices are getting comparable. Installing mine was incredibly easy, so I'm not sure why someone thought it was hard. It was way easier than say, trying to connect hard to reach fan headers. I guess maybe it would be hard if you tried to install it with the motherboard vertical and not using a magnetic tipped screwdriver or something.
Well I'm finally posting from my new computer! It took some work doing; Canada Post lost my case in the mail so I had to get one locally, and we had some issues with how big my fan is but it worked on the first boot!
That just means free case (eventually and if it's like down here). One time my video card was lost for 3 weeks, then it magically turned up after the replacement. And just now a freaking Christmas gift purchased/lost/replaced in November turned up 2 days ago.
Did some updating. I'm basically at that 2k cap at this point once taxes get dumped in etc.
The added perk/expense I'm waffling on now is whether to spring for the fancy M.2 interface SSD or not. When I got a small SSD for my last build to put the OS on I was amazed at how much faster everything was. But after a while it didn't really have room for anything other than the OS itself. So most games I ran off regular drives. It sounds like the newer M2 drives have an added speed boost on top of that. Question is if I want to kick in a $100 for that. Right now I'm leaning yes evern though one commentor mentioned it was a bit stressful to install. The other side is just being able to run things straight off SSD in general may be all I really need and SATA 6 is actually plenty fast already. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HfLmzY
Also once I tipped over into the idea of I'm actually gonnna buy something this year, I have gotten nothing done at work today.
Build looks good to me.
It should be noted that you don't actually have to buy windows 10 if you can live without some customization (you can run it un-activated forever). I always buy it because I like that stuff but it's an option to save $100.
for general use and games you won't notice a large difference between nvme & ssd.
I would go with a 1TB m.2 SSD (not nvme) as it's about half the price.
The main benefit for me with m.2 is no wires at all so the resulting build is clean AF. All I have is a CPU cooler and GPU that you can see and it's great.
for build help, we're all here to help if you get stuck and I'll bring up my old idea of doing a live facetime or something (does discord have video capabilities?) and we can literally all just guide you through it if you got a phone that can do video.
Remote support is only hard because we can't see the thing your talking about and it's crazy there isn't a way to leverage the video cameras in everyone's pocket these days.
Did some updating. I'm basically at that 2k cap at this point once taxes get dumped in etc.
The added perk/expense I'm waffling on now is whether to spring for the fancy M.2 interface SSD or not. When I got a small SSD for my last build to put the OS on I was amazed at how much faster everything was. But after a while it didn't really have room for anything other than the OS itself. So most games I ran off regular drives. It sounds like the newer M2 drives have an added speed boost on top of that. Question is if I want to kick in a $100 for that. Right now I'm leaning yes evern though one commentor mentioned it was a bit stressful to install. The other side is just being able to run things straight off SSD in general may be all I really need and SATA 6 is actually plenty fast already. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HfLmzY
Also once I tipped over into the idea of I'm actually gonnna buy something this year, I have gotten nothing done at work today.
Installing the M2 drive on my new build was less effort than a standard platter.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Definitely looking into mATX mobos for my CPU refresh.
I only use 1 expansion slot and built-in WiFi is something I really don't care about. The price difference isn't anything to scoff at, either.
I installed my first M.2 and the install part was pretty easy. I picked up an Asus 470-F gaming mobo which has some plates that covered the M.2 socket (and I think also act as a heatsink for it?), and that was the most difficult part (3 entire screws).
edit: it may have been 4, but these things always allow more screws than necessary
Lilnoobs on
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HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
edited February 2019
and CPU Cooling project done.
I posted about this last week but my super old 1st gen Corsair AIO H60 water cooler was insanely loud and it has been bumming me out for months that when I built my new rig in my mITX case I migrated it over.
Just finished switching to a Noctua NH-L9x65 and it's way less loud (I can still hear it but man that's better). The only bummer was that that was a big ass project. I have a really nice mITX case but when you got that small you definitely lose some frills so to get to the underside of the motherboard I basically had to take the entire damn thing apart. Took me a couple hours in the end to do the whole project so not bad really. So much "more" space in this thing now lol.
Looks like I'm getting idle temps of about 32 degrees on my 8600, so not bad considering how tiny and cramped the space in there is.
edit - after running overnight the true idle temp is 27. not bad!
If I'm contemplating a ryzen system, should I just wait at this point? I got a 2070 as a gift, so I have to build a new pc, but I want to put that savings into making the thing last.
If I'm contemplating a ryzen system, should I just wait at this point? I got a 2070 as a gift, so I have to build a new pc, but I want to put that savings into making the thing last.
The new Ryzen 3/Zen 2 CPUs and 500-series motherboards will probably be out in late June or July, so if you can wait that long it's probably advisable. The leaks so far are promising a fair jump in performance, especially with regards to gaming/single-core performance.
However, buying in now doesn't have any huuuuge drawbacks. The current 400-series boards will support the new CPUs with a BIOS update (as well as PCIe 4.0) and you could always sell your current CPU to subsidize the cost of an upgrade to the new Ryzen 3 chip.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Also apparently Zen 2 (Ryzen 3000) is making the jump from low power chips they currently use (which is why Ryzen chips are hard capped at about 4 GHz) to high performance ones.
I'm waiting out the launch but I feel like Ryzen 3000 is gonna be a huge hit in the consumer space. So much so I even invested in AMD.
The only wrinkle is a conflict I didn't notice at first. The liquid cooler originally came with a mounting bracket for the AM3, and not the AM4. They added the AM4 bracket to later packages, so it's a bit of a crapshoot whether the one that comes will have the right bracket or not. We'll see.
The only wrinkle is a conflict I didn't notice at first. The liquid cooler originally came with a mounting bracket for the AM3, and not the AM4. They added the AM4 bracket to later packages, so it's a bit of a crapshoot whether the one that comes will have the right bracket or not. We'll see.
Email Deepcool and ask them for a bracket. It's better to have extra than to have to wait for shipping again
No, 75C is fine for an aircooled card under load. Thermal limits are somewhere in the 90-100 range and the card will throttle a bit in the mid 80's. Keep it under that and it's all good.
It's a safe temperature even if it is a bit on the high side. However, that's probably down to a very conservative fan profile to keep things as quiet as possible. Nothing wrong with that because it's well within safe operating temperatures. You could download software such as Asus GPU Tweak II and create custom fan profiles to get lower temperatures and the expense of more noise (albeit not very much depending on what fan configuration the card has).
I generally don't worry about temps at all unless 1 of 2 things are happening.
1. Thermal throttling
2. Overclocking (which might lead to #1)
People make too big a deal of getting "low temps" for their components IMO.
I guess it keeps cooler manufacturers innovating
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I generally try to keep my CPU in the 40's and GPU in the 60's.
I'll probably have to get an AIO for Zen 2.
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
PC components that run hotter die quicker. A CPU running at 50c is going to last longer than one running at 80c. Another thing that leads to premature death is constant cycling between low and high temps. A CPU that idles at 40c and maxes out at 65c will last longer than one that idles at 30c and maxes out at 80c.
I know a sample size of one, but my 4790k hits 80 under load, and is now 5 years old and running strong. I've been meaning to re-apply the thermal paste since that's the issue, but while I'm not going to say temperature doesn't matter, I agree that it matters a lot less than a lot of enthusiasts think/make it out to be.
Posts
https://www.theverge.com/2019/2/15/18226105/a-note-about-youtube-copyright-strikes-from-vox-media
Also interesting to see that roughly 150,000 views equates to $270.
I don't need a new monitor at the moment. My current one is not 4k, it's 1440p with I don't believe any special sync options.
I do output games to my current tv fairly often with an HDMI cable, the current TV is only 1080p.
BUT, if I build a new pc I'd like it to last quite a while with the ability to make incremental upgrades over time possibly. So if the monitor or TV were to end up supporting 4k in a couple years then I would want the pc to be able to do something with that. So I understand much of this is overkill for my current usage, but will hopefully be of long term value.
It looks like SSDs have gotten much cheaper so a 1TB SSD would probably be the ticket and a backup disk drive for storage.
I'd probably want a bluray/dvd drive on occassion but it'd probably be a rare enough event that getting an external one would be feasible instead of needing it built in. So that can probably be a later thing.
Here's a rough so far idea. I'm not sure if I'd be better off dropping down to the 2060. It seems like the $ value vs performance may be worth it.
But I also have a tough time telling the difference between the various releases and there weren't a lot of opinions on the 2060 cards.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WFdhXP
I'm also highly unsure on the case. The one I added in there seems nice but also has some notes about being potentially cramped and I'd rather not add to my build difficulty.
Here's my current case (but since I'm replacing essentially everything I'll probably leave this one intact and build the new one from scratch in a new case). https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139010
What other extraneous things do I need to get? Thermal paste etc? I also have not used a water cooler before.
Usually when I'd build these I'd aim for the breaking point where the performance gains by dollar hit a sudden sharp dip. But video cards now have hit a weird ratio on that, it's hard to tell where that spot is for me now.
Does this also need a separate network card?
They could have asked the youtubers for a comment before you did the strikes, and now they're upset people about attacking their integrity without reaching out to them first?
Moving on, this video seems to suggest more vram may be better for GPUs. The TLDR is that the 1080ti's 11GB seems to be better than the 2080's 8GB.
It's also interesting to undervolting results for the Radeon VII, but a stock product should have these results from the get go instead of having to do the tuning yourself. Granted it doesn't look like much effort, just annoying that the end product seems to have been rushed.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
I'll try to hit all the points you mentioned, apologies if I miss any!
-4k is nice for general pc use and photo editing etc... but even top end cards have trouble pushing that resolution in games. I would say a high refresh rate 1440p monitor is a better bet these days.
-All/Most GPU's will allow you to output to your TV's resolution and if you go to a 4K tv later it will still work
-You don't need thermal paste but it's not expensive and why not.
-Water coolers (i.e. AIO's) are easy peasy to install and work pretty well generally. The main advantage as I see it is how clean the build looks with them.
-You will not need an ethernet card
regarding the build itself:
-32GB of ram is a bit overkill and that money is MUCH better spent on a better GPU.
-The meshify C is a great case and I wouldn't change that unless you really like the look of something else in the same price range.
Here's what I would probably do.
Note: **you could wait for such as new NVIDIA non-RTX GPU's and the new Ryzen chips.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterLiquid ML240L RGB 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($68.71 @ Walmart)
Motherboard: MSI - X370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard ($133.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($121.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB Black Video Card ($688.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G1+ 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($76.52 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($98.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1688.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-15 17:21 EST-0500
Sorry I can't offer advice on monitors.
Honestly, if you're looking for some future proofing and running at 1440P, it looks like a 2080 is a good sweet spot currently (at least based on GN's bench-marking of the new Metro w/ RTX). The performance increase from a 2060 to 2070 is pretty weak, but the 2070 to a 2080 is significant. Do you need 32 GB for productivity work? I think I would drop one of the RAM kits and push closer to that 2K budget you were talking about to accomplish this (or drop down to the 2060 for very solid 1080p gaming, and upgrade the GPU again at the next release cycle).
Meshify C is dope! There are lots of good cases out there, and this is one of them I believe. Good airflow, good looks, good features for a relatively low cost.
Typically most AIO water coolers come pre-applied with thermal paste! If you're not pushing aggressive overclocks, the stock stuff is perfectly fine. New stuff is not costly however, so whatever floats your boat. Motherboards these days do a fine job with on-board networking and audio, and usually isn't a good place for budget allocation.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/knynV6
I left the Samsung SSD, and got some RGB RAM on your motherboards QVL, as well as a slightly more costly 2080.... VERY similar build to Aridhol's however.
The RAM is probably fine at 16, no special need for it. Anything else special in the build process I should be factoring in? Do I need to like replace the stock fans in the case or anything weird like that.
Also, if you have no optical drive, how do you get Windows on there? Maybe I should keep the external drive in the initial purchase set.
Nah, stick with what the cooler and case came with, add more if you need. More fans=more noise.
No optical drive? No problem! Just get a small USB stick and put the windows image on to it
https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10
Edit: Definitely do a little overclocking however, that cooler gives you lots of overhead, and there are MANY useful guides on overclocking the Ryzen CPU's. They have lots of room for improvement fresh out of the box, and kind of need a little overclocking to compete with Intel currently.
Double Edit: Continuing to think on the fans, the case comes with two. Take the current exhaust fan, re-install it up front. Then use the liquid cooler installed in the roof of the case as the exhaust.
You can do a Windows install USB now.
Two more questions. And thanks for all the help.
Is there a case to be made for using an Intel cpu instead? I'm not particularly attached to either brand.
So far with 3 different build reccomendations for the Ryzen, everyone's suggested a different mobo.
What are the features I should be deciding between on those? Relatedly, what's the difference between the B350, X370, and X470 boards? It seems like they all take the Ryzen 7 Processor.
Basically The Verge made a "How to Build a $2k PC" video and completely screwed it up. About 4-5 months ago.
Just this past week, they started issuing copyright strikes against YouTubers who critiqued / responded to the video when it first released. (One being a well-known reviewer -- who is half Asian -- who has a stereotypical alter ego "brother" with a thick Asian accent that pandered the Verge vid)
More VRAM is better for higher resolution textures, generally. If you have no desire to go to 4K gaming then 8gb will serve.
Edit: Poor reading comprehension.
1. The case is not different, but the motherboard and CPU would change. Honestly, don't let me scare you away from the Ryzen though, it's a great CPU, and overclocking is really REALLY easy. So much easier than it used to be. A mild overclock can be achieved with very little effort on your part, and you just might feel like a #hackerman adjusting the fields in the BIOS. SO easy. Wow, a case to be made, not the literal PC case, Bouws. Intel price:performance is generally slightly stronger in video games, Ryzen stronger in multi-tasking/productivity. There's been a big push on to give Ryzen a shot lately however because Intel has been king for a long time, and they haven't been giving people a compelling reason to stick. Competition is good, so if you have no preference, I'd still recommend a Ryzen, but that's just my own bent... I'd defer to the thread if someone has a compelling Intel build they'd like to put forward.
2. With a 2nd gen Ryzen, you really should stick with your B450 or an X470 board as they are flashed at the BIOS to accept the Ryzen 2 chips. The 300 series MOBO's definitely can accept a 2nd gen chip, but they may require a BIOS reflash (honestly, not hard, but not worth the effort given the cost difference). I think given your use case a B450 board will serve you fine.
1) Ryzen is generally most cost effective than the equivalent Intel chips, trading raw CPU top end for more cores, leading to better workstation (editing/design/etc) performance. Since most games are single threaded applications, Intel do (moderately) better at the top end of gaming. This may be changing if the leaked specs of the new Ryzen 3 chips are correct. If you want to do bleeding edge overclocking, a K version Intel processor is going to be your answer. If not, honestly you probably wouldn't notice a much, if any, difference between a higher end Ryzen CPU and an equivilent non-K Intel at 1080p or even 1440p.
2) For the motherboards: X vs B vs A is the "tier" of the board and the features. X and B have overclocking, A doesn't. X vs B is usually a bit closer, with more USB or StoreMi. The 470 is just a tech refresh of the 370 for the 2nd gen Ryzen chips (expect us getting a 570 sometime this summer or fall depending on when Ryzen 3 comes out). It does have some things like better USB ports, but the biggest thing is out of the box support for a 2nd Gen chip, which you might have to flash your 370 for.
The added perk/expense I'm waffling on now is whether to spring for the fancy M.2 interface SSD or not. When I got a small SSD for my last build to put the OS on I was amazed at how much faster everything was. But after a while it didn't really have room for anything other than the OS itself. So most games I ran off regular drives. It sounds like the newer M2 drives have an added speed boost on top of that. Question is if I want to kick in a $100 for that. Right now I'm leaning yes evern though one commentor mentioned it was a bit stressful to install. The other side is just being able to run things straight off SSD in general may be all I really need and SATA 6 is actually plenty fast already.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HfLmzY
Also once I tipped over into the idea of I'm actually gonnna buy something this year, I have gotten nothing done at work today.
Sort of. M.2 is the socket standard, NVME is the transfer standard (the low end M.2 cards transfer using SATA 6). That being said you don't need to run wire or power for it, so it's not an awful idea, as the prices are getting comparable. Installing mine was incredibly easy, so I'm not sure why someone thought it was hard. It was way easier than say, trying to connect hard to reach fan headers. I guess maybe it would be hard if you tried to install it with the motherboard vertical and not using a magnetic tipped screwdriver or something.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Steam: CavilatRest
Build looks good to me.
It should be noted that you don't actually have to buy windows 10 if you can live without some customization (you can run it un-activated forever). I always buy it because I like that stuff but it's an option to save $100.
for general use and games you won't notice a large difference between nvme & ssd.
I would go with a 1TB m.2 SSD (not nvme) as it's about half the price.
The main benefit for me with m.2 is no wires at all so the resulting build is clean AF. All I have is a CPU cooler and GPU that you can see and it's great.
for build help, we're all here to help if you get stuck and I'll bring up my old idea of doing a live facetime or something (does discord have video capabilities?) and we can literally all just guide you through it if you got a phone that can do video.
Remote support is only hard because we can't see the thing your talking about and it's crazy there isn't a way to leverage the video cameras in everyone's pocket these days.
Installing the M2 drive on my new build was less effort than a standard platter.
I only use 1 expansion slot and built-in WiFi is something I really don't care about. The price difference isn't anything to scoff at, either.
edit: it may have been 4, but these things always allow more screws than necessary
I posted about this last week but my super old 1st gen Corsair AIO H60 water cooler was insanely loud and it has been bumming me out for months that when I built my new rig in my mITX case I migrated it over.
Just finished switching to a Noctua NH-L9x65 and it's way less loud (I can still hear it but man that's better). The only bummer was that that was a big ass project. I have a really nice mITX case but when you got that small you definitely lose some frills so to get to the underside of the motherboard I basically had to take the entire damn thing apart. Took me a couple hours in the end to do the whole project so not bad really. So much "more" space in this thing now lol.
Looks like I'm getting idle temps of about 32 degrees on my 8600, so not bad considering how tiny and cramped the space in there is.
edit - after running overnight the true idle temp is 27. not bad!
I *think* 2019 is the last year for the current AMD socket, according to AMD. Maybe 2020. They will have to make a new one for DDR5 support.
The new Ryzen 3/Zen 2 CPUs and 500-series motherboards will probably be out in late June or July, so if you can wait that long it's probably advisable. The leaks so far are promising a fair jump in performance, especially with regards to gaming/single-core performance.
However, buying in now doesn't have any huuuuge drawbacks. The current 400-series boards will support the new CPUs with a BIOS update (as well as PCIe 4.0) and you could always sell your current CPU to subsidize the cost of an upgrade to the new Ryzen 3 chip.
I'm waiting out the launch but I feel like Ryzen 3000 is gonna be a huge hit in the consumer space. So much so I even invested in AMD.
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($249.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool - CAPTAIN 240EX WHITE 153.04 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($79.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI - X470 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.67 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3466 Memory ($150.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($167.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB Black Video Card ($699.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C White TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1867.37
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 16:28 EST-0500
Email Deepcool and ask them for a bracket. It's better to have extra than to have to wait for shipping again
I think I could've done a better job handling the thermals when building my PC. Is it necessary to go back and change that?
Steam: CavilatRest
1. Thermal throttling
2. Overclocking (which might lead to #1)
People make too big a deal of getting "low temps" for their components IMO.
I guess it keeps cooler manufacturers innovating
I'll probably have to get an AIO for Zen 2.