Got any blues or purples or greens? Oil can look like any of those depending on the thickness of the film and its contaminants.
Would any of those colors look weird on gold?
I'm gonna be painting some spots gold on the skeleton and weapons and the armor plates are going to be Space Wolves colors.
A blue wash can look nice on gold, keeping in mind that it will dull it down quite a bit. I haven't tried it but I imagine the same can be said for purple washes.
Got any blues or purples or greens? Oil can look like any of those depending on the thickness of the film and its contaminants.
Would any of those colors look weird on gold?
I'm gonna be painting some spots gold on the skeleton and weapons and the armor plates are going to be Space Wolves colors.
A blue wash can look nice on gold, keeping in mind that it will dull it down quite a bit. I haven't tried it but I imagine the same can be said for purple washes.
Just curious how blue, green, or purple will look over the skeleton. I have almost all the wash colors so I have some options.
For now I'm gonna paint small details on the skeleton gold, probably retributor gold, something really shiny to start since I plan on doing the shoulder pad trim gold.
I plan on doing the exhaust pipes at the top warplock bronze.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
[
It actually seems like there is something wrong with the trigger. It isn't pushing all the way up when I release it so it keeps releasing air and paint. Not sure how to fix it.
When you look at where the airbrush connects to the air hose, when you push the trigger that makes a little pin descend, letting the air in. Is anything interfering with the actuation of that? With those quick change connectors I was talking about up-thread, something about them is slightly off from my regular who connector so that when I press the trigger, that pin gets jammed somehow and doesn't close completely, meaning air and paint keep flowing even when I release the trigger.
0
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
[
It actually seems like there is something wrong with the trigger. It isn't pushing all the way up when I release it so it keeps releasing air and paint. Not sure how to fix it.
When you look at where the airbrush connects to the air hose, when you push the trigger that makes a little pin descend, letting the air in. Is anything interfering with the actuation of that? With those quick change connectors I was talking about up-thread, something about them is slightly off from my regular who connector so that when I press the trigger, that pin gets jammed somehow and doesn't close completely, meaning air and paint keep flowing even when I release the trigger.
I'll have to check it when I'm airbrushing tomorrow. It is all put away right now.
I wish I had like a paint by numbers thing to look at as a guide while painting. Not really sure were else I want to put paint before the wash.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
edited February 2019
Purple
Time to earn my keep around here. Finished the bases for my terminators that have been done for a year:
Now moving on to some breachers, but they are giving me a real hard time because I was an idiot who fully assembled them before painting.
Extreaminatus on
+19
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
I a few weeks ago I found out about Warcolours' Nostalgia '88 line, a recreation of the original Citadel Colour line that came in the tall round pots that P3 uses currently - the ones that last decades without drying out. I ordered the core set about 5 days ago and they arrived from Cyprus yesterday!
They are the real deal. The look, the consistency, the smell, everything is as I remember it. A gold that isn't just a sparkly yellow! I feel like a kid again. I cannot recommend these paints enough. I'm about to go order another set and the inks right now. If you were ever curious as to what all the fuss was about, you owe it to yourself to grab some. Also I hear that all the other Warcolour products are great too.
I also snagged some kolinsky sable brushes that turned out to be pretty great for the price.
Agh, I'd be very tempted to buy that if it wasn't for those damn caps...
Also, did they lift the ban on importing Kolinsky to the US?
Also also, I've finished the CSM... I'm putting it in a spoiler as I don't wanna look like I'm raking up points, heh (it's just some minor corrections and a base).
+24
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
The amount of contrast on that power armor makes me feel things.
Agh, I'd be very tempted to buy that if it wasn't for those damn caps...
Also, did they lift the ban on importing Kolinsky to the US?
Also also, I've finished the CSM... I'm putting it in a spoiler as I don't wanna look like I'm raking up points, heh (it's just some minor corrections and a base).
Okay, I haven't actually used them, but I hate the ones in P3, they usually get their flap torn off over time and then it's hell to open. Were the old Citadel better in this regard?
Trying to clean off some old models again. Isopropyl alcohol isn't really doing anything to clean these off.
This is so tedious to do.
Try to find some Biostrip 20 if you can. I don't know what the hell's in it but it's absolutely incredible at stripping paint from plastic and metal.
This stuff is amazing. Works like a charm, no fumes, and is much faster than any other stripping method. It takes about an hour or two, compared to leaving things overnight in other methods.
I've noticed that regular 91% isopropyl alcohol works absolutely great for stripping models if you forget about them and leave them sitting in an old pickle jar for like two months.
The paint literally washes right off.
+1
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Okay, I haven't actually used them, but I hate the ones in P3, they usually get their flap torn off over time and then it's hell to open. Were the old Citadel better in this regard?
The lids are the same as used by P3 but they've received some upgrades in recent years. The tabs are slightly more rounded which creates a little less pressure at the contact point and the hinge was changed from 1 strip to 2 thin ones. I haven't had any break since nor have I had the hinges rip or crack. I had also learned to use a lighter touch after having used them extensively in the 90's.
He also sells replacement lids for like $0.35.
Incidentally, only the Nostalgia line comes in pots, all the other paints come in droppers.
Because of this thread I bought some Vallejo metal burnt iron. We'll see, how that works.
Any advice for a nice dark gold tone base colour? I have Balthazar gold and retributor base colours and the retributor is much too yellow and the Balthazar doesn't work that well as a base colour, it just doesn't cover well.
0
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
Vallejo Metal Color to the rescue once again! Their gold is great. It's a tad on the green side though. A flesh wash over top generally fixes that though and you'd probably be doing that anyway.
Fun side note: if you want to tint metallics, use ink instead of paint. It does double duty of thinning and tinting without diluting the metallic nature of the paint.
Trying to clean off some old models again. Isopropyl alcohol isn't really doing anything to clean these off.
This is so tedious to do.
Try to find some Biostrip 20 if you can. I don't know what the hell's in it but it's absolutely incredible at stripping paint from plastic and metal.
This stuff is amazing. Works like a charm, no fumes, and is much faster than any other stripping method. It takes about an hour or two, compared to leaving things overnight in other methods.
Can I buy it in the US? I haven't been able to find anywhere that sells it.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
RE: golds
The Warcolours nostalgia shining gold is also fantastic, I used on this WIP ultramarine and then just added a brown ink wash. Also the dark silver is a 2:1 mix of mithril silver and black ink - viola! boltgun metal!
The Warcolours nostalgia shining gold is also fantastic, I used on this WIP ultramarine and then just added a brown ink wash. Also the dark silver is a 2:1 mix of mithril silver and black ink - viola! boltgun metal!
(They aren't paying me to plug them, I swear)
Well, obviously, as you talk up a different paint line every 0.5 or 1 posts. ;P
Anyone explain the difference between inks and washes?
I am in the business of saving lives.
0
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
Inks are watery and have highly-concentrated pigment.
Washes (or shades) are basically paint thinned heavily by adding either matte or gloss acrylic medium and possibly some surfactant to reduce surface tension. They are liquid skill.
I went through my old paints as I fix up my painting setup for the first time in a decade and found these old Ink droppers that still look great, but they are so thin I wasn't sure when I should use them.
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I feel the same way. I keep seeing so many cool paints, I really the Vallejo air and metallic stuff, the LGS I go to just got in a huge shipment of Scale 75 and Fantasy & Game Color paints that look interesting.
I wanna get more of them or at least more GW airbrush paints but I already have roughly 90ish different paint bottles of GW paints and I want to use those before I try to branch out to other paints. I do also like to look at the Warhammer TV paint tutorials for ideas and if I want to build out my paint collection with a different brand I then have to look up a paint that matches the ones used in the video and that is a pain.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I feel the same way. I keep seeing so many cool paints, I really the Vallejo air and metallic stuff, the LGS I go to just got in a huge shipment of Scale 75 and Fantasy & Game Color paints that look interesting.
I wanna get more of them or at least more GW airbrush paints but I already have roughly 90ish different paint bottles of GW paints and I want to use those before I try to branch out to other paints. I do also like to look at the Warhammer TV paint tutorials for ideas and if I want to build out my paint collection with a different brand I then have to look up a paint that matches the ones used in the video and that is a pain.
I heartily encourage folks to try out different paint ranges to find the best for each use. However, I would warn against ending up like me and being more of a paint collector than a painter. Seriously you don't want to know how much paint I own.
There's no shame in using GW paints. They're excellent paints that come in tons of colors, are super easy to find, and most online tutorials use them. Every part of the range is good, even the metallics which is more than can be said of most paint lines. Literally the only negative is the pots they use and that can be remedied with buying cheap dropper bottles in bulk and a little patience.
There's lots of equivalency charts out there but I have found them to be pretty hit-or-miss. Even previous GW -> current GW conversion is spotty at best.
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I feel the same way. I keep seeing so many cool paints, I really the Vallejo air and metallic stuff, the LGS I go to just got in a huge shipment of Scale 75 and Fantasy & Game Color paints that look interesting.
I wanna get more of them or at least more GW airbrush paints but I already have roughly 90ish different paint bottles of GW paints and I want to use those before I try to branch out to other paints. I do also like to look at the Warhammer TV paint tutorials for ideas and if I want to build out my paint collection with a different brand I then have to look up a paint that matches the ones used in the video and that is a pain.
I heartily encourage folks to try out different paint ranges to find the best for each use. However, I would warn against ending up like me and being more of a paint collector than a painter. Seriously you don't want to know how much paint I own.
There's no shame in using GW paints. They're excellent paints that come in tons of colors, are super easy to find, and most online tutorials use them. Every part of the range is good, even the metallics which is more than can be said of most paint lines. Literally the only negative is the pots they use and that can be remedied with buying cheap dropper bottles in bulk and a little patience.
There's lots of equivalency charts out there but I have found them to be pretty hit-or-miss. Even previous GW -> current GW conversion is spotty at best.
I keep kicking tires on swapping my GW paint into droppers.... but I can't find anywhere how many mil's are in a GW pot. What size of dropper bottle do I need to buy?
Related... My wife got me a joke flask in my christmas stocking last year, and it came with a tiny stainless steal funnel that'd be perfect for swapping paint from pot to dropper. It's something I should really get around to doing
Edit - Also what's the best agitator to add? I've heard stories of ball bearing rusting and ruining paint.
You can get glass or lava beads if you’re worried about that. They’re not as heavy but unless the paint is super thick it should be fine. GW paints say they have 12ml in them.
I've been (slowly) building up my Beastclaw Raiders force, and giving in to my compulsive need to tinker with them. My plan is to make a mixed (roughly 50/50) male/female ogor force. Since GW doesn't make (or talk about) female ogors, that means I have to take care of it. I've made a prototype / proof of concept.
More pics in spoiler:
The boob window is accidental. There was a huge air bubble I had to cut away. I'll either patch it or leave it; some of the male ogors were modelled by GW as bursting out of their pants, so it's no stretch (pun intended) to have this ogor bursting her tunic.
Changes compared to male ogor base figure:
Dramatically slimmed down upper arms
Slimmed down neck
Cut off love handles to give a more slender waist
Edit: Trimmed around the belly hole
Sculpted belly over belly hole
Sculpted breasts
Made broader hips/thighs and larger butt
Made face narrower
GS tunic, veil and wimple
(Still need some cleanup on the GS, but his is just the proof of concept.)
Thoughts on improving the concept?
[Expletive deleted] on
Sic transit gloria mundi.
+7
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I stick to citadel paints because I don't want to do the extra step of color matching. If I'm painting Ultramarines (which I currently am), I know I can just grab Macragge Blue and Calgar Blue and those are the blues I want. I don't have to color match them, and hope they are exactly right, only to find out two of my models look slightly different because XYZ's color matched "ultramarine blue" isn't quite the same as Macragge blue.
I really wish Citadel would do something about their paint bottles though. They suck. Why a company with their resources hasn't just moved to dropper bottles yet I'll never know. I hate to fall back on the old "it's to make more money because your paint dries out faster" thing, because I don't find most humans in a company actually think like that...but it does boggle the mind.
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I stick to citadel paints because I don't want to do the extra step of color matching. If I'm painting Ultramarines (which I currently am), I know I can just grab Macragge Blue and Calgar Blue and those are the blues I want. I don't have to color match them, and hope they are exactly right, only to find out two of my models look slightly different because XYZ's color matched "ultramarine blue" isn't quite the same as Macragge blue.
I really wish Citadel would do something about their paint bottles though. They suck. Why a company with their resources hasn't just moved to dropper bottles yet I'll never know. I hate to fall back on the old "it's to make more money because your paint dries out faster" thing, because I don't find most humans in a company actually think like that...but it does boggle the mind.
I am probably one of the few people who doesn't mind the citadel bottle it's better than the generic flip top ones. I don't like dropper bottles mainly because of how I learned to paint.
I know their paint system is confusing as hell and I feel it's to miss sell paints or sell paint bundles. It doesn't help people tweak their take on the color of certain armies or characters when you look online. {an example of this was pre youtube I had no idea how necron monoliths were painted I thought it was green and a ton of wash it didn't help one of the people I found was doing this and using a ton of tissue/tape}
But it's turning spring once more all I have to do is find the base/stand for my light and I back in business painting!
Posts
A blue wash can look nice on gold, keeping in mind that it will dull it down quite a bit. I haven't tried it but I imagine the same can be said for purple washes.
I was thinking about that, but I already use a bright green for glowy eyes and sensors as contrast to the red armour. Hrmmm.
Just curious how blue, green, or purple will look over the skeleton. I have almost all the wash colors so I have some options.
For now I'm gonna paint small details on the skeleton gold, probably retributor gold, something really shiny to start since I plan on doing the shoulder pad trim gold.
I plan on doing the exhaust pipes at the top warplock bronze.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
When you look at where the airbrush connects to the air hose, when you push the trigger that makes a little pin descend, letting the air in. Is anything interfering with the actuation of that? With those quick change connectors I was talking about up-thread, something about them is slightly off from my regular who connector so that when I press the trigger, that pin gets jammed somehow and doesn't close completely, meaning air and paint keep flowing even when I release the trigger.
I'll have to check it when I'm airbrushing tomorrow. It is all put away right now.
I wish I had like a paint by numbers thing to look at as a guide while painting. Not really sure were else I want to put paint before the wash.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Now moving on to some breachers, but they are giving me a real hard time because I was an idiot who fully assembled them before painting.
They are the real deal. The look, the consistency, the smell, everything is as I remember it. A gold that isn't just a sparkly yellow! I feel like a kid again. I cannot recommend these paints enough. I'm about to go order another set and the inks right now. If you were ever curious as to what all the fuss was about, you owe it to yourself to grab some. Also I hear that all the other Warcolour products are great too.
I also snagged some kolinsky sable brushes that turned out to be pretty great for the price.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Also, did they lift the ban on importing Kolinsky to the US?
Also also, I've finished the CSM... I'm putting it in a spoiler as I don't wanna look like I'm raking up points, heh (it's just some minor corrections and a base).
In my dick.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
This is so tedious to do.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Try to find some Biostrip 20 if you can. I don't know what the hell's in it but it's absolutely incredible at stripping paint from plastic and metal.
But those were the good caps.
This stuff is amazing. Works like a charm, no fumes, and is much faster than any other stripping method. It takes about an hour or two, compared to leaving things overnight in other methods.
The paint literally washes right off.
The lids are the same as used by P3 but they've received some upgrades in recent years. The tabs are slightly more rounded which creates a little less pressure at the contact point and the hinge was changed from 1 strip to 2 thin ones. I haven't had any break since nor have I had the hinges rip or crack. I had also learned to use a lighter touch after having used them extensively in the 90's.
He also sells replacement lids for like $0.35.
Incidentally, only the Nostalgia line comes in pots, all the other paints come in droppers.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Any advice for a nice dark gold tone base colour? I have Balthazar gold and retributor base colours and the retributor is much too yellow and the Balthazar doesn't work that well as a base colour, it just doesn't cover well.
Fun side note: if you want to tint metallics, use ink instead of paint. It does double duty of thinning and tinting without diluting the metallic nature of the paint.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Can I buy it in the US? I haven't been able to find anywhere that sells it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The Warcolours nostalgia shining gold is also fantastic, I used on this WIP ultramarine and then just added a brown ink wash. Also the dark silver is a 2:1 mix of mithril silver and black ink - viola! boltgun metal!
(They aren't paying me to plug them, I swear)
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Washes (or shades) are basically paint thinned heavily by adding either matte or gloss acrylic medium and possibly some surfactant to reduce surface tension. They are liquid skill.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I feel the same way. I keep seeing so many cool paints, I really the Vallejo air and metallic stuff, the LGS I go to just got in a huge shipment of Scale 75 and Fantasy & Game Color paints that look interesting.
I wanna get more of them or at least more GW airbrush paints but I already have roughly 90ish different paint bottles of GW paints and I want to use those before I try to branch out to other paints. I do also like to look at the Warhammer TV paint tutorials for ideas and if I want to build out my paint collection with a different brand I then have to look up a paint that matches the ones used in the video and that is a pain.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
first attempt at a force sword has not gone well, but lessons have been learned!
I heartily encourage folks to try out different paint ranges to find the best for each use. However, I would warn against ending up like me and being more of a paint collector than a painter. Seriously you don't want to know how much paint I own.
There's no shame in using GW paints. They're excellent paints that come in tons of colors, are super easy to find, and most online tutorials use them. Every part of the range is good, even the metallics which is more than can be said of most paint lines. Literally the only negative is the pots they use and that can be remedied with buying cheap dropper bottles in bulk and a little patience.
There's lots of equivalency charts out there but I have found them to be pretty hit-or-miss. Even previous GW -> current GW conversion is spotty at best.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460882
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3451361
I keep kicking tires on swapping my GW paint into droppers.... but I can't find anywhere how many mil's are in a GW pot. What size of dropper bottle do I need to buy?
Related... My wife got me a joke flask in my christmas stocking last year, and it came with a tiny stainless steal funnel that'd be perfect for swapping paint from pot to dropper. It's something I should really get around to doing
Edit - Also what's the best agitator to add? I've heard stories of ball bearing rusting and ruining paint.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
wraith buddies
More pics in spoiler:
The boob window is accidental. There was a huge air bubble I had to cut away. I'll either patch it or leave it; some of the male ogors were modelled by GW as bursting out of their pants, so it's no stretch (pun intended) to have this ogor bursting her tunic.
Changes compared to male ogor base figure:
- Dramatically slimmed down upper arms
- Slimmed down neck
- Cut off love handles to give a more slender waist
- Edit: Trimmed around the belly hole
- Sculpted belly over belly hole
- Sculpted breasts
- Made broader hips/thighs and larger butt
- Made face narrower
- GS tunic, veil and wimple
(Still need some cleanup on the GS, but his is just the proof of concept.)Thoughts on improving the concept?
I stick to citadel paints because I don't want to do the extra step of color matching. If I'm painting Ultramarines (which I currently am), I know I can just grab Macragge Blue and Calgar Blue and those are the blues I want. I don't have to color match them, and hope they are exactly right, only to find out two of my models look slightly different because XYZ's color matched "ultramarine blue" isn't quite the same as Macragge blue.
I really wish Citadel would do something about their paint bottles though. They suck. Why a company with their resources hasn't just moved to dropper bottles yet I'll never know. I hate to fall back on the old "it's to make more money because your paint dries out faster" thing, because I don't find most humans in a company actually think like that...but it does boggle the mind.
For some stupid fucking reason.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I am probably one of the few people who doesn't mind the citadel bottle it's better than the generic flip top ones. I don't like dropper bottles mainly because of how I learned to paint.
I know their paint system is confusing as hell and I feel it's to miss sell paints or sell paint bundles. It doesn't help people tweak their take on the color of certain armies or characters when you look online. {an example of this was pre youtube I had no idea how necron monoliths were painted I thought it was green and a ton of wash it didn't help one of the people I found was doing this and using a ton of tissue/tape}
But it's turning spring once more all I have to do is find the base/stand for my light and I back in business painting!