I bought a new, 10 dollar, single action siphon airbrush to try priming with Vallejo primer for my return to painting in maybe..15 years?
Used Vallejo Gray primer with a few drops of Thinner / Flow Improver and once I remembered how to use an airbrush I'm really happy with the results. Super fast to get multiple thin coats on quickly and I can do it in doors without asphyxiating myself.
Going to let them cure for a few days before jumping into base colors and washing this weekend.
Feels very, very good to put paint on miniatures for the first time in so long.
I am in the business of saving lives.
+3
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I stick to citadel paints because I don't want to do the extra step of color matching. If I'm painting Ultramarines (which I currently am), I know I can just grab Macragge Blue and Calgar Blue and those are the blues I want. I don't have to color match them, and hope they are exactly right, only to find out two of my models look slightly different because XYZ's color matched "ultramarine blue" isn't quite the same as Macragge blue.
I really wish Citadel would do something about their paint bottles though. They suck. Why a company with their resources hasn't just moved to dropper bottles yet I'll never know. I hate to fall back on the old "it's to make more money because your paint dries out faster" thing, because I don't find most humans in a company actually think like that...but it does boggle the mind.
I am probably one of the few people who doesn't mind the citadel bottle it's better than the generic flip top ones. I don't like dropper bottles mainly because of how I learned to paint.
I know their paint system is confusing as hell and I feel it's to miss sell paints or sell paint bundles. It doesn't help people tweak their take on the color of certain armies or characters when you look online. {an example of this was pre youtube I had no idea how necron monoliths were painted I thought it was green and a ton of wash it didn't help one of the people I found was doing this and using a ton of tissue/tape}
But it's turning spring once more all I have to do is find the base/stand for my light and I back in business painting!
We can quibble about how their standard paints are bottled, but in my opinion the Air line ought to be in droppers. Having to poor paint out of the standard citadel bottles in to an airbrush cup is annoying. I've got a method down now where I waste minimal paint, but it's a huge pain in the ass. And I haven't had great success transferring to droppers myself. Pain to transfer and I had some strange color separation issues with one of the paints (that doesn't seem to happen in the original jar).
In airbrushes it was my horrible summer and being unable to paint and how I sat waiting all fall and winter for the temp to get to comfortable so I can. I kind of want to get an airbrush for primering and large basecoats/models
I just don't like the look of airbrushed stuff though I find it kind of meh as I see it too often on eldar armies and have not been impressed
In airbrushes it was my horrible summer and being unable to paint and how I sat waiting all fall and winter for the temp to get to comfortable so I can. I kind of want to get an airbrush for primering and large basecoats/models
I just don't like the look of airbrushed stuff though I find it kind of meh as I see it too often on eldar armies and have not been impressed
This is what I used for priming tonight. No fuss, no muss. You just mix up a big jar of your favored primer and get at it. This combined with the ubiquitous Hobby Lobby 40% coupon for a compressor will have you priming with an airbrush for $50.
I am in the business of saving lives.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The few times I used my airbrush have ranged from bad to great for me.
When I was going for a sort of neon orange on my Infinity models I had a lot of trouble getting them all to be the same color, I also didn't really do thin coats and ended up putting too much on each layer. All vallejo paints.
My T'au came out a lot better but even then I feel like the layers were a little too thick and the Pathfinders have streaks on them and I'm not sure why but I think the airbrush may have started to clog. I used vallejo gloss primer and the color shift from green stuff world.
For the skull base I did for my Wulfen I had a pretty easy time. Airflow improver really helped with getting GW paints through without clogging but I felt like I was using too much paint for the small amount of painting I was doing and I was also using a dropper to pull paint out and put it in the pot. I also had some seriously chunky ceramite white.
I think so far my two imperial knights have come out the best. I think they look awesome and I'm really happy with the vallejo colors I used, grey surface primer, burnt iron base, and gunmetal base over that. Right now I'm still working on details with GW paints but so far I'm pretty happy with it which I'm usually not.
I do need to start using these GW paints though. I have almost 100 different colors and I barely use them though I also barely paint. Luckily my brother likes painting his stuff up so for now they are being used.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
I couldn't go back to not using an airbrush for priming and base coating. The smoothness it can apply a prime or base coat with is just phenomenal. I've only recently started to use it for things like blending and highlighting...but for me the priming and base coating is worth the price of entry alone.
Jumped on the bandwagon and grabbed a bottle of vallejo gunmetal and of burnt iron.
The more non-citadel paint I pick up the more I realize that the reason I rely so much on citadel stuff is that the base/layer/drybrush/etc paint system they have takes the brainwork out of choosing which paints to use.... sadly I think it's also a crutch keeping me from getting better with paints in general.
I stick to citadel paints because I don't want to do the extra step of color matching. If I'm painting Ultramarines (which I currently am), I know I can just grab Macragge Blue and Calgar Blue and those are the blues I want. I don't have to color match them, and hope they are exactly right, only to find out two of my models look slightly different because XYZ's color matched "ultramarine blue" isn't quite the same as Macragge blue.
I really wish Citadel would do something about their paint bottles though. They suck. Why a company with their resources hasn't just moved to dropper bottles yet I'll never know. I hate to fall back on the old "it's to make more money because your paint dries out faster" thing, because I don't find most humans in a company actually think like that...but it does boggle the mind.
Changing bottle styles would be a huge manufacturing chain logistics cost for basically zero benefit. It's not like there'd be a huge market share increase if they changed bottle types, and they'd have to foot the cost for changing the bottling process, shipping, labelling, new display racks for stores, etc. It's probably just cost prohibitive to change the whole process when people are still buying the current pots.
How does a siphon airbrush differ from a gravity feed with regards to priming? Easier/harder to use? Different coat quality?
Why do most sites recommend a gravity fed brush?
My personal take is that gravity fed is much easier to control especially at super fine spreads like with miniatures. Siphon fed needs higher pressure to pull through paint out so it's hard to get a smooth spread in super narrow painting.
I also prefer a dual action trigger so you can adjust the amount of paint on the fly without stopping to adjust the nozzle.
I am in the business of saving lives.
+2
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
How does a siphon airbrush differ from a gravity feed with regards to priming? Easier/harder to use? Different coat quality?
Why do most sites recommend a gravity fed brush?
Because gravity fed just lets the paint the flow out of the pot. It's a simpler process, with less parts, and for miniature painting, it's a much easier to use one. The siphon really doesn't offer any advantages.
+1
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I used a siphon feed to prime my imperial knight models. It didn't go bad, it was pretty easy, not really any issues until it started to clog but that is probably because of the primer. After I did that I used the gravity feed for the base coats, I do like the gravity feed more. More control.
I haven't gone back to painting my knights yet. I painted most of the details on the skeleton gold and was working on the weapons and then I was going to do a second coat of gold but I just haven't had the drive to do it.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It's readily available I guess (and probably a lot cheaper than artstore flow-improver)? All it does is lower the surface tension of the paint/water mix, allowing it to flow better.
Plus it smells nice!
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited March 2019
A different, worse colour
Ammonia tends to get chemically reactive when you combine it with water (that's why it makes a good cleaner) and will attack brass, copper, zinc, and a couple of other soft metals IIRC. It wouldn't surprise me if brass is a common component in certain types of fittings and internal parts, and so that could cause problems.
its anvil's finest. it comes with a muzzle break barrel if you wanna go full robocop. i never understood why apart from a few recent raven guard models conventional marines weren't allowed sniper rifles. loyalist word bearer dude from the HH books has one and he's awesome.
I have been painting the Shadespire warbands! this is really giving me my painting mojo back. Got these guys a week ago and I've managed to carve out enough painting time to get Steelheart's Champions done. Garracks Reavers are also 80% of the way there.
Had heaps of fun painting them, and doing the little conversions too. Of course I'd forgotten how good my camera was at finding all the little flaws and bits I've missed and need to touch up, so I guess there's more to be done ... :P
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
+18
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
90's throwback paints demand a 90's throwback paintjob. Based on the 2nd Edition Cadians.
I have been painting the Shadespire warbands! this is really giving me my painting mojo back. Got these guys a week ago and I've managed to carve out enough painting time to get Steelheart's Champions done. Garracks Reavers are also 80% of the way there.
Had heaps of fun painting them, and doing the little conversions too. Of course I'd forgotten how good my camera was at finding all the little flaws and bits I've missed and need to touch up, so I guess there's more to be done ... :P
It's a recurring question but what did you use for your bronze metal? I really dig that.
Stormcast have the usual GW problem of the official paint scheme being pretty mediocre compared to all the alternatives. That looks way better than the usual gold.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+1
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I have been painting the Shadespire warbands! this is really giving me my painting mojo back. Got these guys a week ago and I've managed to carve out enough painting time to get Steelheart's Champions done. Garracks Reavers are also 80% of the way there.
Had heaps of fun painting them, and doing the little conversions too. Of course I'd forgotten how good my camera was at finding all the little flaws and bits I've missed and need to touch up, so I guess there's more to be done ... :P
It's a recurring question but what did you use for your bronze metal? I really dig that.
Cheers! It's a pretty simple recipe.
Basecoat Balthasar Gold
Wash down with a brown wash
Wash just the recesses with watered down Rhinox Hide
Repanel Balthasar Gold
Gentle Highlight with a 50/50 mix of Balthasar Gold and Mithril silver (not sure what the new version is, but the lightest silver they make)
Edge highlight with pure silver
Then go back and add chipping and scrapes if you want.
Stormcast have the usual GW problem of the official paint scheme being pretty mediocre compared to all the alternatives. That looks way better than the usual gold.
I know right. Literally every other colour scheme looks so much better. The Lions of Sigmar are bronze and Purple and that looks amazing. I would have done them if a friend hadn't already.
Stormcast have the usual GW problem of the official paint scheme being pretty mediocre compared to all the alternatives. That looks way better than the usual gold.
I wonder if that's intentional, to encourage people to come up with their own schemes.
Stormcast have the usual GW problem of the official paint scheme being pretty mediocre compared to all the alternatives. That looks way better than the usual gold.
I wonder if that's intentional, to encourage people to come up with their own schemes.
I like this paint job for the stormcast
The anvils of the heldenhammer
But I would try to get that dull slivered look as shown in one of the art pieces
Brainleech on
+3
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Stormcast have the usual GW problem of the official paint scheme being pretty mediocre compared to all the alternatives. That looks way better than the usual gold.
I wonder if that's intentional, to encourage people to come up with their own schemes.
It's because it's super easy to reproduce, especially for a new painter. The fact that it sells $30 cans of spray paint doesn't hurt either.
Though everyone knows the Celestial Vindicators have the best scheme.
The stock Stormcast color scheme is what got me interested in painting Stormcast in the first place. It's a good application of classic color theory.
0
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
It's taken me, like, a month to paint five of these suckers, I hate doing wings, and I still have fifteen more to do, but progress is progress!
The red splodgy wings doesn't show up very well on camera cos it's all glossy, but it's mostly just to visually distinguish them from the alternative weapon build if I'm running both Heartrenders and Lifetakers on the table.
Posts
Used Vallejo Gray primer with a few drops of Thinner / Flow Improver and once I remembered how to use an airbrush I'm really happy with the results. Super fast to get multiple thin coats on quickly and I can do it in doors without asphyxiating myself.
Going to let them cure for a few days before jumping into base colors and washing this weekend.
Feels very, very good to put paint on miniatures for the first time in so long.
We can quibble about how their standard paints are bottled, but in my opinion the Air line ought to be in droppers. Having to poor paint out of the standard citadel bottles in to an airbrush cup is annoying. I've got a method down now where I waste minimal paint, but it's a huge pain in the ass. And I haven't had great success transferring to droppers myself. Pain to transfer and I had some strange color separation issues with one of the paints (that doesn't seem to happen in the original jar).
I just don't like the look of airbrushed stuff though I find it kind of meh as I see it too often on eldar armies and have not been impressed
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Single-action-22cc-Siphon-feed-Airbrush/dp/B004KNHGHS/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=siphon+airbrush&qid=1551847155&s=gateway&sr=8-26
This is what I used for priming tonight. No fuss, no muss. You just mix up a big jar of your favored primer and get at it. This combined with the ubiquitous Hobby Lobby 40% coupon for a compressor will have you priming with an airbrush for $50.
When I was going for a sort of neon orange on my Infinity models I had a lot of trouble getting them all to be the same color, I also didn't really do thin coats and ended up putting too much on each layer. All vallejo paints.
My T'au came out a lot better but even then I feel like the layers were a little too thick and the Pathfinders have streaks on them and I'm not sure why but I think the airbrush may have started to clog. I used vallejo gloss primer and the color shift from green stuff world.
For the skull base I did for my Wulfen I had a pretty easy time. Airflow improver really helped with getting GW paints through without clogging but I felt like I was using too much paint for the small amount of painting I was doing and I was also using a dropper to pull paint out and put it in the pot. I also had some seriously chunky ceramite white.
I think so far my two imperial knights have come out the best. I think they look awesome and I'm really happy with the vallejo colors I used, grey surface primer, burnt iron base, and gunmetal base over that. Right now I'm still working on details with GW paints but so far I'm pretty happy with it which I'm usually not.
I do need to start using these GW paints though. I have almost 100 different colors and I barely use them though I also barely paint. Luckily my brother likes painting his stuff up so for now they are being used.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
And every attempt after that has not gone well. I can not seem to keep paint from drying in it as I use it and I spend more time cleaning it.
Changing bottle styles would be a huge manufacturing chain logistics cost for basically zero benefit. It's not like there'd be a huge market share increase if they changed bottle types, and they'd have to foot the cost for changing the bottling process, shipping, labelling, new display racks for stores, etc. It's probably just cost prohibitive to change the whole process when people are still buying the current pots.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Why do most sites recommend a gravity fed brush?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
From my limited understanding, gravity feed lets you use lower pressure since the airbrush doesn't have to create a vacuum to pull the paint up.
My personal take is that gravity fed is much easier to control especially at super fine spreads like with miniatures. Siphon fed needs higher pressure to pull through paint out so it's hard to get a smooth spread in super narrow painting.
I also prefer a dual action trigger so you can adjust the amount of paint on the fly without stopping to adjust the nozzle.
Because gravity fed just lets the paint the flow out of the pot. It's a simpler process, with less parts, and for miniature painting, it's a much easier to use one. The siphon really doesn't offer any advantages.
I haven't gone back to painting my knights yet. I painted most of the details on the skeleton gold and was working on the weapons and then I was going to do a second coat of gold but I just haven't had the drive to do it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
...why windex?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Plus it smells nice!
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Vallejo Flow Improver more or less does the same thing
I still opt for vallejo airbrush thinner and cleaner, but 'ammonia bad' could just be a lie perpetrated to sell those exact products.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
That said I always use ammonia-free glass cleaner. Stuff smells nasty.
I've heard Simple Green will cause major problems for a Sotar.
Also, does it count as a rifle if you can point it at something, and the end of the barrel touches the target? :P
So if anyone wants to be a character witness at my trial...
"How do you know the defendant?"
"Uh... he paints little plastic wardollies on the internet?"
"Death penalty it is!"
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyNacS6vd48
Had heaps of fun painting them, and doing the little conversions too. Of course I'd forgotten how good my camera was at finding all the little flaws and bits I've missed and need to touch up, so I guess there's more to be done ... :P
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It's a recurring question but what did you use for your bronze metal? I really dig that.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Cheers! It's a pretty simple recipe.
Basecoat Balthasar Gold
Wash down with a brown wash
Wash just the recesses with watered down Rhinox Hide
Repanel Balthasar Gold
Gentle Highlight with a 50/50 mix of Balthasar Gold and Mithril silver (not sure what the new version is, but the lightest silver they make)
Edge highlight with pure silver
Then go back and add chipping and scrapes if you want.
I know right. Literally every other colour scheme looks so much better. The Lions of Sigmar are bronze and Purple and that looks amazing. I would have done them if a friend hadn't already.
I wonder if that's intentional, to encourage people to come up with their own schemes.
I like this paint job for the stormcast
The anvils of the heldenhammer
But I would try to get that dull slivered look as shown in one of the art pieces
It's because it's super easy to reproduce, especially for a new painter. The fact that it sells $30 cans of spray paint doesn't hurt either.
Though everyone knows the Celestial Vindicators have the best scheme.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The red splodgy wings doesn't show up very well on camera cos it's all glossy, but it's mostly just to visually distinguish them from the alternative weapon build if I'm running both Heartrenders and Lifetakers on the table.