Oh man, this is a productive page. I'm going to add to it. I don't get to be a part of that page.
Did CNC work tonight.
Cut out the star first:
Didn't get to finish cutting it out.
Did the red top section:
This is the wing bit? I guess? I'm not sure what to call that. Also this is leftover stuff from the Washington state cutting board.
Bottom section:
Sort of assembled:
I may do a darker wood on the bottom. Or maybe switch to the curly maple for the bottom section and dye it blue? Not sure yet. Also kind of want to do an outline of purpleheart around the star. That certainly adds to the complication factor of this though.
I think there'd be a few changes if I were to do this again.
Radiation on
PSN: jfrofl
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
That looks so fuckin' cool it had to start a whole new page to contain it.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Booo! thought it'd be on previous page.
Well I also was working on the pen box for my buddy. He was finally happy with the design. Doing the box in leopard wood.
Still need to do a few more finishing passes and then make one more of those boxes, an accessory box and a lid. Then sand everything, glue in magnets and finish it.
Also need to do some 3d modeling work. I was a goober and deleted my previous final versions of the D&D boxes, so need to redo all that modeling. And also working on a design for a deck box for MtG.
Also maybe a lifecounter.
Also, the shell I got for fret markers is really really flakey so I may have to buy markers =/
OR maybe i could inlay the fret board
Markers/sharpies of varying sizes are quite useful for making curves in annealed/soft metal. I know this isn’t the point of your mention of markers, and the advice itself might be obvious, but one never knows exactly what is obvious, so.
Good idea!
I had the idea to get dowel rods, but since I already have pens and markers
I'm about a 64th of an inch off over 14" and don't much care. Now I'm only worried about the neck pocket and truss rod adjustment access
Depending on the machine you're using, 1/64th over a run of 14 inches could be within tolerances. CNC routers aren't typically anywhere near the precision of something like a heavy lathe for commercial manufacturing use. Shit, y Dad is a fitter and turner by trade (what would now be called a machinist) and when he bought a small Chinese-made hobby lathe for his shed, he spent all day trying to set it up correctly. He was shimming the bed one way, turning a test piece, measuring it, doing the calculations, then shimming the bed another way, turning another test piece, measuring that, doing more calculations...
All day he stuffed about trying to get this lathe repeatable to less than 2 thousandths of an inch concentric runout over the length of a 6 inch work piece, and he couldn't.
So he studied the owners manual a little more carefully - it was manufactured to a tolerance of 2 thou runout over 6 inches...
When he was a machinist he was using lathes as big as a small car, these things weighed dozens of tonnes and some were accurate up to 1 thousandth of an inch over 36 inches.
I ran a piece of 1x4 on the router eight times to measure the correct location before I routed the actual piece of maple. Afterwards, I used an eighth inch wood chisel to square the corners. I need to order a 5/16" straight bit as I can't find a local place that sells them. Then I'll do my best to drill the hole beneath the nut (luthiers, you are all come up with some gross terms) so the truss rod can be adjusted without too much hassle.
This is the most difficult project I've ever undertaken
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited March 2019
I don't know if I showed you this before, @Xaquin but Cristiana at Get Hands Dirty on YoutTube did a ukulele bass build and it seemed like the most intensely meticulous project I've ever watched:
Which is to say, yeah, instrument making is hard, and I'm super impressed by your work already. This stuff requires a level of precision that's kind of mind-blowing.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
There's this video of a guy making expensive semi-custom guitars for people which is interesting to watch, even if the dude is a bit of a pretentious wanker. His guitars are fucking stunning, though:
I've been on the fence to build an electric for a long time.
I had a friend ask if I could run a build a ukele from a kit class at our makerspace and then she could do a lesson packaged with it. I think it's a great idea, but not sure I'm there yet.
Like it wont fit in on the...back side? Is the width consistent down the entire length? Maybe there's a section that may be budging out slightly?
Or it wont sit flat in the routed channel?
Like it wont fit in on the...back side? Is the width consistent down the entire length? Maybe there's a section that may be budging out slightly?
Or it wont sit flat in the routed channel?
It won't sit flat in the routed channel. I'm assuming something like the wood at the nut (jesus luthiers) is keeping it from sitting all the way in the channel. I don't think I have the precision to shave that down though without breaking off the shelf where the nut sits
edit: the width is correct, everything fits in that respect. as is the depth. it's got to be that little area at the nut =/
edit2: it was that little area at the nut. I filed it down with a circular file and it's good to go
I'm still worried about shaping the neck, but if worst comes to worst, I can always do it again. I just really don't want to lol
edit3: if nothing else, I will have learned how to properly sand wood after I finish this
Like it wont fit in on the...back side? Is the width consistent down the entire length? Maybe there's a section that may be budging out slightly?
Or it wont sit flat in the routed channel?
It won't sit flat in the routed channel. I'm assuming something like the wood at the nut (jesus luthiers) is keeping it from sitting all the way in the channel. I don't think I have the precision to shave that down though without breaking off the shelf where the nut sits
edit: the width is correct, everything fits in that respect. as is the depth. it's got to be that little area at the nut =/
edit2: it was that little area at the nut. I filed it down with a circular file and it's good to go
I'm still worried about shaping the neck, but if worst comes to worst, I can always do it again. I just really don't want to lol
edit3: if nothing else, I will have learned how to properly sand wood after I finish this
Wood is strong as hell though, don't worry about shaping the neck. Consider how skinny broom handles are compared to a guitar neck and they tolerate big fat schlubs like me leaning on them for years.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited March 2019
Well, it's basically all done except for a final high grit sanding in a couple of days.
The two little guys at the end are stands for a Streamdeck and a headphone amp.
We went with raw steel 3-rod hairpin legs on the desk, clear coated to prevent rust. The cable management hole in the top feeds right into a cubby for a surge protector.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
going to print this out today and tape it to my sheet of acrylic. Jigsaw it out and make the template. Maybe I'll have the body cut out in a couple weeks!
Alright, the double sided job on the boxes was a bit easier than I expected.
I did mess up on the lid and my alignment was off in one direction. Needed to run a facing operation and then re-run the job, so the lid is slightly thinner than it should've been.
Need to run a facing job on the bottom box, glue in magnets, sand and then finish the boxes.
Anyways here's wonderwall the process/pictures.
Made an MDF positive of the pen box. I actually had to change the tool paths because it was an exact fit at first. Ran another operation to take .2mm off so things could actually be fit.
Used double sided tape as well. Friction was actually enough, but wanted to be super safe.
Ready for work. With the jig I was able to keep the same x/y, but needed to change the z out for each box.
It occurred to me this morning that our front porch security camera is tied to my girlfriends phone and as such she's probably known I'm making her a guitar for months now
I'm still going to finish it naturally but some of the fun is gone now
It occurred to me this morning that our front porch security camera is tied to my girlfriends phone and as such she's probably known I'm making her a guitar for months now
I'm still going to finish it naturally but some of the fun is gone now
Unless she takes a lot of interest in what you're doing beyond "woodworking," It is entirely possible she hasn't been paying that much attention. (Based on my experience with people in general. Obviously I don't know your girlfriend!)
square 1 complete, 20 to go:
(this square is the largest & ~1/5 of the total size)
i'm not manipulating the colors yet --just knitting through the cakes-- but as the squares get smaller, i'll likely do some striping to avoid wide swathes.
Do you have access to a laser cutter? Acrylic is a pain in the fucking ass.
If I have to do it with basic tools, the cleanest method I've found is to score it deeply with a box cutter and then slam it in a door jamb.
(don't use a good door, though. Also, only works for straight lines).
Do you have access to a laser cutter? Acrylic is a pain in the fucking ass.
If I have to do it with basic tools, the cleanest method I've found is to score it deeply with a box cutter and then slam it in a door jamb.
(don't use a good door, though. Also, only works for straight lines).
Hey man.
I have a CNC.
I've literally cut acrylic on it.
I'm also not too far away.
PSN: jfrofl
+5
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited March 2019
Picked up some MDF and melamine laminated particle board. Gonna actually make a nice, perfectly square crosscut sled or two over the next week. I made one previously, but it was made from some slightly warpy plywood and I didn't get the back fence quite perfectly square so it's time for a do-over with those lessons learned. Gonna use the next couple of down weekends between paid commissions to make some jigs and finish my sofa side table I started like 4 months ago.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Posts
Did CNC work tonight.
Cut out the star first:
Didn't get to finish cutting it out.
Did the red top section:
This is the wing bit? I guess? I'm not sure what to call that. Also this is leftover stuff from the Washington state cutting board.
Bottom section:
Sort of assembled:
I may do a darker wood on the bottom. Or maybe switch to the curly maple for the bottom section and dye it blue? Not sure yet. Also kind of want to do an outline of purpleheart around the star. That certainly adds to the complication factor of this though.
I think there'd be a few changes if I were to do this again.
Well I also was working on the pen box for my buddy. He was finally happy with the design. Doing the box in leopard wood.
Still need to do a few more finishing passes and then make one more of those boxes, an accessory box and a lid. Then sand everything, glue in magnets and finish it.
Also need to do some 3d modeling work. I was a goober and deleted my previous final versions of the D&D boxes, so need to redo all that modeling. And also working on a design for a deck box for MtG.
Also maybe a lifecounter.
Good idea!
I had the idea to get dowel rods, but since I already have pens and markers
I'm about a 64th of an inch off over 14" and don't much care. Now I'm only worried about the neck pocket and truss rod adjustment access
Man i might need to get into magica voxel
This thing seems like a good way to do dumb art
Depending on the machine you're using, 1/64th over a run of 14 inches could be within tolerances. CNC routers aren't typically anywhere near the precision of something like a heavy lathe for commercial manufacturing use. Shit, y Dad is a fitter and turner by trade (what would now be called a machinist) and when he bought a small Chinese-made hobby lathe for his shed, he spent all day trying to set it up correctly. He was shimming the bed one way, turning a test piece, measuring it, doing the calculations, then shimming the bed another way, turning another test piece, measuring that, doing more calculations...
All day he stuffed about trying to get this lathe repeatable to less than 2 thousandths of an inch concentric runout over the length of a 6 inch work piece, and he couldn't.
So he studied the owners manual a little more carefully - it was manufactured to a tolerance of 2 thou runout over 6 inches...
When he was a machinist he was using lathes as big as a small car, these things weighed dozens of tonnes and some were accurate up to 1 thousandth of an inch over 36 inches.
This is the most difficult project I've ever undertaken
Which is to say, yeah, instrument making is hard, and I'm super impressed by your work already. This stuff requires a level of precision that's kind of mind-blowing.
I briefly looked into making a Balalaika. Very briefly.
I do have a great set of plans though somewhere
edit: MONEY
her statement "I could have done this on/or with this but I didn't think about it" is something I've said to myself 10,000 times already
I had a friend ask if I could run a build a ukele from a kit class at our makerspace and then she could do a lesson packaged with it. I think it's a great idea, but not sure I'm there yet.
I'm already worried about shaping the neck as it is, and if I rout any deeper I feel like the neck will snap at the headstock
I can make it lay flat, but that seems like a bad move
Or it wont sit flat in the routed channel?
It won't sit flat in the routed channel. I'm assuming something like the wood at the nut (jesus luthiers) is keeping it from sitting all the way in the channel. I don't think I have the precision to shave that down though without breaking off the shelf where the nut sits
edit: the width is correct, everything fits in that respect. as is the depth. it's got to be that little area at the nut =/
edit2: it was that little area at the nut. I filed it down with a circular file and it's good to go
I'm still worried about shaping the neck, but if worst comes to worst, I can always do it again. I just really don't want to lol
edit3: if nothing else, I will have learned how to properly sand wood after I finish this
Wood is strong as hell though, don't worry about shaping the neck. Consider how skinny broom handles are compared to a guitar neck and they tolerate big fat schlubs like me leaning on them for years.
The two little guys at the end are stands for a Streamdeck and a headphone amp.
We went with raw steel 3-rod hairpin legs on the desk, clear coated to prevent rust. The cable management hole in the top feeds right into a cubby for a surge protector.
I also am near done with the pen boxes. Going to try and finish the machine portion tomorrow.
Also really need to get off my butt and do the Captain Marvel thing as well. Going to also try and make one more.
Edit:
Bonus quality inspector photo:
I did mess up on the lid and my alignment was off in one direction. Needed to run a facing operation and then re-run the job, so the lid is slightly thinner than it should've been.
Need to run a facing job on the bottom box, glue in magnets, sand and then finish the boxes.
Anyways here's wonderwall the process/pictures.
Made an MDF positive of the pen box. I actually had to change the tool paths because it was an exact fit at first. Ran another operation to take .2mm off so things could actually be fit.
Used double sided tape as well. Friction was actually enough, but wanted to be super safe.
Ready for work. With the jig I was able to keep the same x/y, but needed to change the z out for each box.
After action shot
Backside of the middle two boxes.
Sort of finished.
I'm still going to finish it naturally but some of the fun is gone now
Satans..... hints.....
Unless she takes a lot of interest in what you're doing beyond "woodworking," It is entirely possible she hasn't been paying that much attention. (Based on my experience with people in general. Obviously I don't know your girlfriend!)
(this square is the largest & ~1/5 of the total size)
i'm not manipulating the colors yet --just knitting through the cakes-- but as the squares get smaller, i'll likely do some striping to avoid wide swathes.
Made a perfect test cut
Made the real cut and the whole damn sheet shattered and took out the paper template with it
-sigh-
Better to lose a $16 sheet of acrylic than a $70 piece of maple I guess. Still a bummer.
This is me every time I've had to cut acrylic. Test cut is perfect. Real deal is a complete and utter catastrophe.
If I have to do it with basic tools, the cleanest method I've found is to score it deeply with a box cutter and then slam it in a door jamb.
(don't use a good door, though. Also, only works for straight lines).
Water jets work really well too.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Won’t work for some curves, though
I'm just going to do it in plywood.
Now I'm making a large hand sander because I can't do what I want to be doing but still want to be productive
I have a CNC.
I've literally cut acrylic on it.
I'm also not too far away.
It's a bit bigger than 16x16 though =(
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
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