Man, I am having such a pain of a time trying to get my PLA to stay on the bed. I tried using a raft and without but the ends keep curling up and then they snag something and the whole thing gets yanked off. Some sites recommend painters (blue) tape, others say you need to get the nozzle closer to the bed on the first layer. Has either of these worked for any of you? I'm using an UP! Plus 2 using a perf board if that means anything...
I'm going to try adjusting the nozzle height in a second here so I'll let you all know how it goes.
DisruptedCapitalist on
"Simple, real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time." -Mustrum Ridcully in Terry Pratchett's Hogfather p. 142 (HarperPrism 1996)
Oh hey, so I read the manual, and actually it says the raft warping is actually it's because the extruder is too close. Well, that's good because I was about to adjust it down which probably would have broken something. Guh.
"Simple, real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time." -Mustrum Ridcully in Terry Pratchett's Hogfather p. 142 (HarperPrism 1996)
Tonight's entertainment: 3.2" touchscreen. It has enough logic on its own to need no firmware changes to the controller board, it speaks G-code to the board to do stuff.
It has an SD reader on the other side, as well as a plugin slot for a wifi module. I won't need that since I have a Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint. Well, I don't even need the touchscreen with OctoPrint, this was just for fun.
I've been wanting a filament runout sensor so the print will automagically pause if the filament runs out - right now I have three spools I'm wary of using since I don't know if there's enough left on them for prints. With a runout sensor I can just let it use up the filament and have it pause. And with some coding I can get a notification when it's time to swap!
Inspired by this thread I bought an Ender 5. I'm going to be in trouble as this is just so fucking cool. I'm already drowning in ideas of stuff to work on. Got it setup and and calibrated in maybe an hour and half? After that my first print was a quickly found Epic 40k Predator tank. I didn't even bother to scale it correctly, I just wanted to see it in action. Did not disappoint. I'm so excited.
+6
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
So, 3D printing thread, can I assume everyone has seen Form Labs’ latest offerings?
Specifically the Form 3 and Form fuckhuge?
Anyone got a chance to see one in person/in the wild yet? Their new system seems like a neat way to ditch the wipe step but I can’t tell what their speed claims really mean from just numbers.
I've been sidetracking into home-made IoT stuff lately, so I decided I needed a filament runout sensor that would pause the print when the filament runs out, since the Ender 3 doesn't have one.
I made this prototype to test stuff:
And then slapped it into this case (minus wiring):
That's a Wemos D1 Mini board based on an ESP8266. The original idea was to have it detect runout and send me a notification, but I ended up using just the microswitch - I have OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi for printing, and the switch is connected to GPIO pins on the Raspberry, and then I have a plugin for handling filament runout to pause the print. An IFTTT plugin then sends me a notification on my phone.
I'm going to design and print a smaller case, but here it is in action. The green blob is a dust filter - just two parts that screw into each other, and then a piece of sponge wrapped around the filament inside.
Hey guys, two things, I am having a HELL of a time with my 3D printer. I have been cleaning the nozzle, leveling the buildplate, everything I could think of but it keeps on failing. It seems like the plastic is just not coming out of the nozzle, as the interior scaffolding looks more like lace than plastic support walls. Any suggestions? I've got a Ultimaker 2.
Second thing who's seen the IVI 3d printer? I've seen the Kickstarter, and man...It just seems WAY too good to be true, but I don't have the experience to say why. It's under "IVI: The Closed-Loop 3D Printer" and the cost for a base level model is 400, which seems just way too low. Thanks guys!
Hey guys, two things, I am having a HELL of a time with my 3D printer. I have been cleaning the nozzle, leveling the buildplate, everything I could think of but it keeps on failing. It seems like the plastic is just not coming out of the nozzle, as the interior scaffolding looks more like lace than plastic support walls. Any suggestions? I've got a Ultimaker 2.
Do you have a spare nozzle you can try? I got a backup one with my printer.
...and on that note I'm dealing with a clogged nozzle myself right now. This is the second time I got a major clog, both times using this same black filament. I suspect it's either polluted or the black coloring is clumped up. Either way, not using that filament again once I got this unclogged.
Sadly no, no backup nozzle. I'll have to order one from amazon, thankfully they're not too expensive, and hopefully it's not too hard to change out the nozzle!
Never mind! Just looked at how to change it out, and damn, that's complex. Have to try something else...
This looks lite a cute little thing. Good price as a first printer as well. I wonder how hackable it is though, it could use better stepper drivers to reduce the noise.
So uh, visiting professor is currently giving a presentation on using 3D printers to print models of bones and implants, and I can already see the questions coming. Knowing basically jack about 3D printers, what are some recommended higher end models right now with a large build areas (say, having to do a full size arm or leg bone all at once)?
That's a bigger task to be sure. I would think in something like that you would break down the parts to not the full arm, but individual components at a time.
That size volume gets more into the professional grade of which there are a few vendors out there: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/fuse-1/
165x165x320mm build area
I meant like, a humerus or radius, not both at once. But also figure 20 inches or more for a femur. Or I'll just have to tell them they only get half of the long bones at once.
Edit: This one from Folgertech seems to have a 28 inch build area. Anyone have any experience or thoughts with that company?
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Form Labs also has the Form 3L up for preorder if you want enormous build volume in a consumer-ish desktop device: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3l/
More than that and you start getting into industrial scale printers if you want to stick with resin.
Form Labs also has the Form 3L up for preorder if you want enormous build volume in a consumer-ish desktop device: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3l/
More than that and you start getting into industrial scale printers if you want to stick with resin.
Yeah, I'll have to see just what their use case is going to be. I just know this guy mentioned doing full bone mockups in his presentation, but that's going to be a significant dollar and space investment if people want this I guess.
Form Labs also has the Form 3L up for preorder if you want enormous build volume in a consumer-ish desktop device: https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3l/
More than that and you start getting into industrial scale printers if you want to stick with resin.
Yeah, I'll have to see just what their use case is going to be. I just know this guy mentioned doing full bone mockups in his presentation, but that's going to be a significant dollar and space investment if people want this I guess.
So one thing to consider is I know some of the EDEN line has FDA approved resins, though aimed at the dental market. I think I'd read something about 3D printing surgical guides of some sort at one point too.
So uh, visiting professor is currently giving a presentation on using 3D printers to print models of bones and implants, and I can already see the questions coming. Knowing basically jack about 3D printers, what are some recommended higher end models right now with a large build areas (say, having to do a full size arm or leg bone all at once)?
May I ask which professor this is?
0
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I am building my first 3D print project, it is super cool seeing it come together.
I have to remove a lot of support structure stuff from curved surfaces, and I think it's making a lot of dents / leaving hollow space in the curve, any advice for filling it back in and sanding it down? How do you normally remove the support stuff?
Gonna need to glue a lot of parts together and have them be seamless - what should I use for that?
Aaand can I use Mr Surfacer lacquer primer on this stuff? Its good for Gunpla, so I'm assuming it's safe on PLA?
Do you have knots? They might not be visible but there could be a big knot on your spool. They tend to show when the spool gets lower though, not when new.
I had a weird thing a while back where only one particular model kept on underextruding. Eventually I just remade the whole model from scratch (lucky it had fairly simple geometry) and it came out fine but for the life of me I can't figure out why it was just that model that kept causing the problem.
DisruptedCapitalist on
"Simple, real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time." -Mustrum Ridcully in Terry Pratchett's Hogfather p. 142 (HarperPrism 1996)
Think I found the issue with the under-extrusion on the printer. This is the gear wheel that feeds filament, the cogs are all gummed up so it can't grip the filament properly.
Seems that brass gear actually got worn out. There's some play on the stepper motor shaft, so I just lowered the gear a bit so it uses the upper unused part of the gear to feed the filament. Doing a test print now but it seems to have improved things already.
I could replace that gear, but I'm considering just getting a better extruder and replace the whole thing. Might go for a BondTech extruder what with it being a Swedish company so I can order straight from them.
Posts
I'm going to try adjusting the nozzle height in a second here so I'll let you all know how it goes.
It has an SD reader on the other side, as well as a plugin slot for a wifi module. I won't need that since I have a Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint. Well, I don't even need the touchscreen with OctoPrint, this was just for fun.
Not bad, just weird that it changed.
Just for the heck of it I hotswapped to neon green mid-print.
I've been wanting a filament runout sensor so the print will automagically pause if the filament runs out - right now I have three spools I'm wary of using since I don't know if there's enough left on them for prints. With a runout sensor I can just let it use up the filament and have it pause. And with some coding I can get a notification when it's time to swap!
Specifically the Form 3 and Form fuckhuge?
Anyone got a chance to see one in person/in the wild yet? Their new system seems like a neat way to ditch the wipe step but I can’t tell what their speed claims really mean from just numbers.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Welcome aboard and/or I'm so sorry!
I made this prototype to test stuff:
And then slapped it into this case (minus wiring):
That's a Wemos D1 Mini board based on an ESP8266. The original idea was to have it detect runout and send me a notification, but I ended up using just the microswitch - I have OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi for printing, and the switch is connected to GPIO pins on the Raspberry, and then I have a plugin for handling filament runout to pause the print. An IFTTT plugin then sends me a notification on my phone.
I'm going to design and print a smaller case, but here it is in action. The green blob is a dust filter - just two parts that screw into each other, and then a piece of sponge wrapped around the filament inside.
Second thing who's seen the IVI 3d printer? I've seen the Kickstarter, and man...It just seems WAY too good to be true, but I don't have the experience to say why. It's under "IVI: The Closed-Loop 3D Printer" and the cost for a base level model is 400, which seems just way too low. Thanks guys!
FTC: HONK.
PAX Prime 2014 Resistance Tournament Winner
Do you have a spare nozzle you can try? I got a backup one with my printer.
...and on that note I'm dealing with a clogged nozzle myself right now. This is the second time I got a major clog, both times using this same black filament. I suspect it's either polluted or the black coloring is clumped up. Either way, not using that filament again once I got this unclogged.
Never mind! Just looked at how to change it out, and damn, that's complex. Have to try something else...
FTC: HONK.
PAX Prime 2014 Resistance Tournament Winner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9xtJddDgB4
That size volume gets more into the professional grade of which there are a few vendors out there:
https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/fuse-1/
165x165x320mm build area
These guys have a few different printer options:
https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers
Not sure who else to look at.
Edit: This one from Folgertech seems to have a 28 inch build area. Anyone have any experience or thoughts with that company?
More than that and you start getting into industrial scale printers if you want to stick with resin.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Yeah, I'll have to see just what their use case is going to be. I just know this guy mentioned doing full bone mockups in his presentation, but that's going to be a significant dollar and space investment if people want this I guess.
So one thing to consider is I know some of the EDEN line has FDA approved resins, though aimed at the dental market. I think I'd read something about 3D printing surgical guides of some sort at one point too.
May I ask which professor this is?
I have to remove a lot of support structure stuff from curved surfaces, and I think it's making a lot of dents / leaving hollow space in the curve, any advice for filling it back in and sanding it down? How do you normally remove the support stuff?
Gonna need to glue a lot of parts together and have them be seamless - what should I use for that?
Aaand can I use Mr Surfacer lacquer primer on this stuff? Its good for Gunpla, so I'm assuming it's safe on PLA?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7OymY4lVRo
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303088791698
how does one buy it without ebay?
If I had to decide between an actual mugger and ebay to give my credit card or bank info to, I'd give it to the mugger every time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7G1cwVduVk
which is probably like high end for hobbyist 3d printing lol
It adds up pretty fast. This fancy hat dome for a building was about 18 hours. Printing one full set of terrain for a table is probably 100+ hours.
also I can build massive pieces which is another thing I was looking for