I could see them being used in conference rooms and stuff, but I'm sure their primary market are the people where that kind of cost is a rounding error on their annual financial statement.
For a conference room you're going to use a cheaper TV since 8k is wasted, or you're using a projector. But for the rich folks, mostly, yeah. Those TVs at that price come out because rich folks "need" luxury items, but over time those TVs drop in price. I mean, I've pulled plenty of Pioneer Elite plasma sets out of homes that probably cost 10-15k when they were first installed, and put a new $1k TV in its place because they don't care about keeping up with the Joneses anymore. The number of Marantz TVs and sound systems I've removed from homes and exchanged with something much less expensive now is kinda crazy, and it makes me sad that I'm not allowed to keep any of the electronics because I would love to have an old Marantz receiver.
Though we've also had a client who spent about $100k on product and services. Six TVs, three of which were 65" A1Es. Then a $25k projector and $11k screen. And about $10k in Luxul networking gear. This was in a house with literal marble floors. Some people need to spend that money.
Fun fact: the architect screwed up designing the home. Over the winter the house shrunk enough for the sheetrock in the house to crack all over the place. It was also designed without lightning rods. A lightning strike about 15' from the house destroyed every piece of electronics in the house, including every TV, audio device, and network component we installed. Oops.
Looking at the TV I'm considering, LG C8 55', the price over time is crazy. It was 33.000 sek (3500 USD) one year ago (when it was brand new), and it is 13.000 sek now (1400 USD).
Who in their right mind buy these things on release day?
+3
Options
syndalisGetting ClassyOn the WallRegistered User, Loves Apple Productsregular
Quick note: all TCL televisions with Dobly Vision made in the past couple years have been updated to provide dolby vision on xbox ones.
Which is great; been waiting for that for a while.
SW-4158-3990-6116
Let's play Mario Kart or something...
Ugh, I'm still having issues with syncing audio and video between my TCL 55S423 and Vizio soundbar (SB3651-E6).
Using the optical out and setting the audio out to PCM (so glad I bought this surround sound to force it to stereo) I can get the audio signal ahead enough that I can play with the delay on the sound bar and get it "close." Some streaming apps (usually Netflix, but almost never a streaming service for a cable channel) are just a little bit ahead with the video if I set it to Dolby D but if I pay any attention it becomes very noticable. I've made sure to turn off all post-processing on the sound bar (noise leveling, equalizer, etc) to minimize any delay from that. If TCL/Roku could just release a video signal delay option in a firmware I would be a happy camper, but I doubt I'll get another update to the TV :sad:
I guess I can try opening another help ticket with TCL, Roku and Vizio but I doubt that will get me anywhere unless I strike tech support jackpot and get someone who can actually help instead of going down the same tired checklist. I also need to try and see if external signal processing devices (chromecast, fire stick) can circumvent the Roku processing onboard the TV so I can narrow down the culprit.
General advice:
Big budget, best picture: LG OLED
But burn-in!: Samsung Q series or Sony 950 or Vizio PQ series
OK, maybe a little less than that: Vizio P series or Sony 900 or Samsung 8500
Uh, maybe less than that even: TCL 61x series or Vizio M series
Actually I need something really cheap: TCL 4xx or Vizio E series
A lot of these are 2018 model numbers, but there aren't a ton of reviews on 2019 TVs yet.
Where can I find some good advice for a first time TV buyer? The OP seems ancient.
For audio and video recommendations I usually go to a site called "what hi-fi", specifically their recommendations for "best buys": https://www.whathifi.com/best-buys.
Your milage might vary, but I find that their recommendations (to me) hit a sweet spot of good enough quality (to my ears and eyes) for a resonable price (especially for products which are not recently released).
+1
Options
AkimboEGMr. FancypantsWears very fine pants indeedRegistered Userregular
rtings had just the kind of information I was looking for, thanks @a5ehren.
If you post roughly what you are after in terms of size and usage, and roughly what you want to spend, I'm sure people will be willing to help out.
Also where you are might be useful.
I'm looking for something to go in my living room. The TV will be on the opposite end of the room to the couch, roughly 11'. To the left of the couch is a west-facing balcony, so sunsets are something to keep in mind. We'll mostly be using the TV for Netflix and similar services, with occasional Switch and PC* gameplay. No sports or news, and no excessive use, so no real fear of burn-in. That's about all I can say. I'm not looking to spend too much, so bang-for-buck options are appreciated.
Oh, and I'm in the states (CA).
*via Steamlink app
Give me a kiss to build a dream on; And my imagination will thrive upon that kiss; Sweetheart, I ask no more than this; A kiss to build a dream on
I want to buy a new TV maybe but I've been out the TV game for a hot minute and now there are too many tvs.
I've always liked Sony and Amazon has a decent price on the X950 55". But they also have an LG 55 OLED c8AUA model which is cheaper than the PUA model and I'm not sure why? Best I can tell is that the model number changes depending on the seller so I guess maybe the AUA is the Amazon model and the PUA is the standard model. But where are those savings coming from? I know the Sony will be a good TV but I want those OLED blacks and $1200 is a good ass price for an OLED but what if it's a shitty version?
I get a small discount on Samsung stuff thru work but cheesy Pete there are so many Samsung models I don't even know where to start.
What do? I'd like a 65" but that's not really realistic both price and space wise so I'm looking for a 55" I guess. Price... eh. My 50" Sony 1080p is still going strong so I don't really need a new TV but I want to finally get up to a 4k so... I dunno, I'd like to stay under $1,200-1,300.
Edit: I've been doing some research and it looks like the C8AUA is a refurbished version of last years model. The C9PUA is LG's top tier 2019 OLED as best I can tell. So $1200 for a refurb high end oled seems pretty dang good.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Yeah so the number is basically the year of manufacturing. The C8 are from last year, the 9 are this year. As far as the PUA vs AUA, they're the same TV but I think they have a slightly different stand. The PUA is sold at all retailers, while the AUA is an exclusive retailer model. So Costco, BJs, Sam's, and other member retailers.
The only thing I caution with refurbished OLEDs is to look that screen over like crazy when you get it. Burn in doesn't go away.
Aye, based on the reviews every refurb bought from these folks (who are Amazon authorized refurbished dealers whatever that may mean) have said their TVs looked brand new out of box. I may stop by my old Best Buy I worked at and see if I can't finagle a deal on an open box or something. I dunno. That's a sweet price point, though.
TexiKenDammit!That fish really got me!Registered Userregular
As an owner of one, I would not recommend a Sony TV based on how crappy the Android TV OS can be. Or rather, if you're going to use a new TV with all the smart functions it should provide, go Samsung or LG instead.
The picture quality is fantastic on my 43" 4K Sony, but it can freeze up with the slightest of things and Netflix and Amazon apps were worthless and it would repeatedly keep them running in the background and basically slow down everything and be a resource hog like it's a shitty shitty PC. I've basically replaced it in the living room with a 55" Samsung and moved the Sony to my bedroom TV where I connect Apple TV/soundbar/Blu-Ray/game system and use it primarily for those things, I don't even watch TV on it.
And this is even with the most current Android TV patch/update. It has been a really frustrating 2-3 years with the thing, I would get rid of it but I don't like wasting things and if I gave it to a friend or family they'd probably think I gave them a lemon (and the Android UI is not for older people too FYI)
I use my TV primarily for games and any app watching happens thru an xbox. I have noticed my TV is a little clunky when it comes to startups but otherwise I've never really had any issues with it based on its smart functions. In fact, I wish somebody would put out a 4k TV with 0 smart capabilities and save me a few hundred bucks.
I use my TV primarily for games and any app watching happens thru an xbox. I have noticed my TV is a little clunky when it comes to startups but otherwise I've never really had any issues with it based on its smart functions. In fact, I wish somebody would put out a 4k TV with 0 smart capabilities and save me a few hundred bucks.
Hehehehe no. It'll cost more because they're not getting that sweet, delicious data.
I use my TV primarily for games and any app watching happens thru an xbox. I have noticed my TV is a little clunky when it comes to startups but otherwise I've never really had any issues with it based on its smart functions. In fact, I wish somebody would put out a 4k TV with 0 smart capabilities and save me a few hundred bucks.
Aside from the above, there's pretty much no pretending that "smart capabilities"--in other words, a tiny chip and a wifi antenna crammed somewhere inside a TV that already costs more than "hundreds of bucks" costs more more than the metal and plastic furniture around the TV itself. If you're capable of making a 4K television, even without HDR or whatever, you're capable of making a psuedo-Kindle fire stick and cramming it inside the set, along with your own (probably) terrible software and Youtube, Netflix, etc.'s apps. That's the cheapest individual component of the set, after the feet.
Companies like Samsung, and to a lesser extent Sony and LG, have experience making pretty good apps (usually via Android) on top of that. Samsung's smart TV apps are shockingly capable and easy-to-use (especially their wireless display streaming)--plus, including Freensync makes their higher-end devices arguably the best option for console gaming on top of being pretty good televisions. If you want a display with zero functions, buy a really big desktop monitor. You're just not going to be saving any money because they cut corners with software (and speakers and probably HDR) to give you much higher response times.
Plus, you know, data collection. Though if you're concerned about that, just don't connect your TV to the internet.
This seems like it might be the right spot to post this.
I recently purchased a Yamaha YAS-108 soundbar since the sound from the TV speakers was not great.
It arrived today and I've spent three hours now trying to get it up and running and while it seems to be connected (It swaps between HDMI and TV as sources when swapping between my PS4 and Netflix via the TV itself) I'm not getting any sound at all. The TV model is a Sony KD-43X8000D.
I've made sure the CEC function in both is enabled. The TV uses Bravia Sync, with does recognise the PS4 but not my soundbar.
The soundbar is plugged into the third HDMI port, the ARC one as per the instruction manual.
Sound is no longer coming through the TV speakers, so I assume I've connected things correctly but I'm missing a step somewhere.
I've tested the soundbar via my phone playing music and podcasts through bluetooth with zero issues, so the soundbar doesn't seem to be faulty.
Can anyone suggest where I might be going wrong? I've done a fair bit of digging online but to no success.
0
Options
MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
Most basic question; have your tried different cables?
I understand HDMI is particularly bad in that area, work all the different DRMs and versions.
+1
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Here's a fun question, we got a stand to go with this TV and it has only now occured to use that the stand recommends using a tip restraint that is included. However, where we want to put the TV is not up against a wall due to the odd shape of our living room. Are there any solutions for that sort of thing? Reviews imply that the stand is quite sturdy without it but it makes me a bit nervous, especially since we have cats (The entire reason we got a stand that has a TV mount on it instead of a big dresser type thing). we can of course return it for something else if we need to.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Oh hey, I built one of those for a client last week! If it's far from the wall and the strap won't fit there's not much you can do. But if it's just cats I wouldn't worry too much. Just make sure the thing is level and shim it if necessary so it doesn't wobble at all.
Related to this, Shadowfire is there a replacement pedestal style stand you would recommend? Seems like a lot of manufacturers are using those small v shaped stands at the ends of the screen these days and that would limit me for anything larger than about 45 without having to replace my current entertainment center. Wall mounting is a no-go
0
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
edited May 2019
Sanus makes a swivel stand that will fit just about any TV. That'll make the TV have a center stand of sorts, and you'll be able to turn the TV to different angles.
Edit: it tops off at 60" so if you're going bigger than that it won't work.
We also have lathe and plaster. I haven't mounted the TV but I have hung a pair of heavy mirrors (one of which is over our bed so I made damn sure it wasn't going to fall on me) using toggle bolts.
0
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
My house was built in 1904 and has plaster and lathe. Still mounted my TV and routed the cables through the wall. Put some painters tape up where you're going to drill to keep from cracking the plaster and you'll be alright.
There's still studs behind the lathing. You just gotta find them, then you can bolt a Sony WEGA, i.e., small elephant to the wall and not worry too much.
Yeah studs are the way to go. If using a stud finder, many sure it's calibrated to plaster walls.
MichaelLC on
+1
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
edited June 2019
Don't be afraid to drill a couple holes where you're pretty sure there are studs. You'll need a hole or two for routing cables anyway, and if you miss at least you can see inside the wall then.
Besides, the holes will be covered by the tv anyway.
Edit: cutting holes for routing wires is actually a lot harder on plaster. It's worth looking into a rotozip in that case. They're amazing so you should have one anyway, but they do great work on plaster and lathe.
This is exactly what Samsung markets those One Connect boxes for.
Me, I just bought a bigger entertainment unit that would fit the "four feet" style popular to TVs now. A lot simpler (and possible even cheaper) than the alternatives. From the front, my Soundbar hides the five inputs (banded to one of the feet) and power cable anyway.
0
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
One Connect cables that come with the TVs are not in-wall rated. You can buy ones that are in-wall rated, but be prepared to spend $2-300 on the cable.
Posts
For a conference room you're going to use a cheaper TV since 8k is wasted, or you're using a projector. But for the rich folks, mostly, yeah. Those TVs at that price come out because rich folks "need" luxury items, but over time those TVs drop in price. I mean, I've pulled plenty of Pioneer Elite plasma sets out of homes that probably cost 10-15k when they were first installed, and put a new $1k TV in its place because they don't care about keeping up with the Joneses anymore. The number of Marantz TVs and sound systems I've removed from homes and exchanged with something much less expensive now is kinda crazy, and it makes me sad that I'm not allowed to keep any of the electronics because I would love to have an old Marantz receiver.
Though we've also had a client who spent about $100k on product and services. Six TVs, three of which were 65" A1Es. Then a $25k projector and $11k screen. And about $10k in Luxul networking gear. This was in a house with literal marble floors. Some people need to spend that money.
Fun fact: the architect screwed up designing the home. Over the winter the house shrunk enough for the sheetrock in the house to crack all over the place. It was also designed without lightning rods. A lightning strike about 15' from the house destroyed every piece of electronics in the house, including every TV, audio device, and network component we installed. Oops.
Who in their right mind buy these things on release day?
Which is great; been waiting for that for a while.
Let's play Mario Kart or something...
55 $1170
65 $1700
Nintendo Friend Code: SW-0689-9921-0006
Using the optical out and setting the audio out to PCM (so glad I bought this surround sound to force it to stereo) I can get the audio signal ahead enough that I can play with the delay on the sound bar and get it "close." Some streaming apps (usually Netflix, but almost never a streaming service for a cable channel) are just a little bit ahead with the video if I set it to Dolby D but if I pay any attention it becomes very noticable. I've made sure to turn off all post-processing on the sound bar (noise leveling, equalizer, etc) to minimize any delay from that. If TCL/Roku could just release a video signal delay option in a firmware I would be a happy camper, but I doubt I'll get another update to the TV :sad:
I guess I can try opening another help ticket with TCL, Roku and Vizio but I doubt that will get me anywhere unless I strike tech support jackpot and get someone who can actually help instead of going down the same tired checklist. I also need to try and see if external signal processing devices (chromecast, fire stick) can circumvent the Roku processing onboard the TV so I can narrow down the culprit.
Also where you are might be useful.
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
Their custom recommendation tool is helpful as well: https://www.rtings.com/tv/tools/recommendation
General advice:
Big budget, best picture: LG OLED
But burn-in!: Samsung Q series or Sony 950 or Vizio PQ series
OK, maybe a little less than that: Vizio P series or Sony 900 or Samsung 8500
Uh, maybe less than that even: TCL 61x series or Vizio M series
Actually I need something really cheap: TCL 4xx or Vizio E series
A lot of these are 2018 model numbers, but there aren't a ton of reviews on 2019 TVs yet.
For audio and video recommendations I usually go to a site called "what hi-fi", specifically their recommendations for "best buys": https://www.whathifi.com/best-buys.
Your milage might vary, but I find that their recommendations (to me) hit a sweet spot of good enough quality (to my ears and eyes) for a resonable price (especially for products which are not recently released).
I'm looking for something to go in my living room. The TV will be on the opposite end of the room to the couch, roughly 11'. To the left of the couch is a west-facing balcony, so sunsets are something to keep in mind. We'll mostly be using the TV for Netflix and similar services, with occasional Switch and PC* gameplay. No sports or news, and no excessive use, so no real fear of burn-in. That's about all I can say. I'm not looking to spend too much, so bang-for-buck options are appreciated.
Oh, and I'm in the states (CA).
*via Steamlink app
I want to buy a new TV maybe but I've been out the TV game for a hot minute and now there are too many tvs.
I've always liked Sony and Amazon has a decent price on the X950 55". But they also have an LG 55 OLED c8AUA model which is cheaper than the PUA model and I'm not sure why? Best I can tell is that the model number changes depending on the seller so I guess maybe the AUA is the Amazon model and the PUA is the standard model. But where are those savings coming from? I know the Sony will be a good TV but I want those OLED blacks and $1200 is a good ass price for an OLED but what if it's a shitty version?
I get a small discount on Samsung stuff thru work but cheesy Pete there are so many Samsung models I don't even know where to start.
What do? I'd like a 65" but that's not really realistic both price and space wise so I'm looking for a 55" I guess. Price... eh. My 50" Sony 1080p is still going strong so I don't really need a new TV but I want to finally get up to a 4k so... I dunno, I'd like to stay under $1,200-1,300.
Edit: I've been doing some research and it looks like the C8AUA is a refurbished version of last years model. The C9PUA is LG's top tier 2019 OLED as best I can tell. So $1200 for a refurb high end oled seems pretty dang good.
The only thing I caution with refurbished OLEDs is to look that screen over like crazy when you get it. Burn in doesn't go away.
The picture quality is fantastic on my 43" 4K Sony, but it can freeze up with the slightest of things and Netflix and Amazon apps were worthless and it would repeatedly keep them running in the background and basically slow down everything and be a resource hog like it's a shitty shitty PC. I've basically replaced it in the living room with a 55" Samsung and moved the Sony to my bedroom TV where I connect Apple TV/soundbar/Blu-Ray/game system and use it primarily for those things, I don't even watch TV on it.
And this is even with the most current Android TV patch/update. It has been a really frustrating 2-3 years with the thing, I would get rid of it but I don't like wasting things and if I gave it to a friend or family they'd probably think I gave them a lemon (and the Android UI is not for older people too FYI)
Hehehehe no. It'll cost more because they're not getting that sweet, delicious data.
Aside from the above, there's pretty much no pretending that "smart capabilities"--in other words, a tiny chip and a wifi antenna crammed somewhere inside a TV that already costs more than "hundreds of bucks" costs more more than the metal and plastic furniture around the TV itself. If you're capable of making a 4K television, even without HDR or whatever, you're capable of making a psuedo-Kindle fire stick and cramming it inside the set, along with your own (probably) terrible software and Youtube, Netflix, etc.'s apps. That's the cheapest individual component of the set, after the feet.
Companies like Samsung, and to a lesser extent Sony and LG, have experience making pretty good apps (usually via Android) on top of that. Samsung's smart TV apps are shockingly capable and easy-to-use (especially their wireless display streaming)--plus, including Freensync makes their higher-end devices arguably the best option for console gaming on top of being pretty good televisions. If you want a display with zero functions, buy a really big desktop monitor. You're just not going to be saving any money because they cut corners with software (and speakers and probably HDR) to give you much higher response times.
Plus, you know, data collection. Though if you're concerned about that, just don't connect your TV to the internet.
Well, at least with televisions that seems to be the case.
I recently purchased a Yamaha YAS-108 soundbar since the sound from the TV speakers was not great.
It arrived today and I've spent three hours now trying to get it up and running and while it seems to be connected (It swaps between HDMI and TV as sources when swapping between my PS4 and Netflix via the TV itself) I'm not getting any sound at all. The TV model is a Sony KD-43X8000D.
I've made sure the CEC function in both is enabled. The TV uses Bravia Sync, with does recognise the PS4 but not my soundbar.
The soundbar is plugged into the third HDMI port, the ARC one as per the instruction manual.
Sound is no longer coming through the TV speakers, so I assume I've connected things correctly but I'm missing a step somewhere.
I've tested the soundbar via my phone playing music and podcasts through bluetooth with zero issues, so the soundbar doesn't seem to be faulty.
Can anyone suggest where I might be going wrong? I've done a fair bit of digging online but to no success.
I understand HDMI is particularly bad in that area, work all the different DRMs and versions.
Try a new cable definitely. Then just use toslink. That's solid.
Thanks, this fixed the problem. It was an older HDMI cable and might have been too old for what it was trying to do.
I purchased a more high end one this afternoon and it started working immediately.
Any good guides for fine tuning the setup?
The stand we got, for reference.
With kids I would definitely have it strapped.
Edit: it tops off at 60" so if you're going bigger than that it won't work.
Curious: why is wall mounting a no-go? Renting and the landlord will throw a fit?
We also have lathe and plaster. I haven't mounted the TV but I have hung a pair of heavy mirrors (one of which is over our bed so I made damn sure it wasn't going to fall on me) using toggle bolts.
My house was built in 1904 and has plaster and lathe. Still mounted my TV and routed the cables through the wall. Put some painters tape up where you're going to drill to keep from cracking the plaster and you'll be alright.
There's still studs behind the lathing. You just gotta find them, then you can bolt a small elephant to the wall and not worry too much.
Yeah studs are the way to go. If using a stud finder, many sure it's calibrated to plaster walls.
Besides, the holes will be covered by the tv anyway.
Edit: cutting holes for routing wires is actually a lot harder on plaster. It's worth looking into a rotozip in that case. They're amazing so you should have one anyway, but they do great work on plaster and lathe.
Me, I just bought a bigger entertainment unit that would fit the "four feet" style popular to TVs now. A lot simpler (and possible even cheaper) than the alternatives. From the front, my Soundbar hides the five inputs (banded to one of the feet) and power cable anyway.