StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited April 2019
Left my russ grey open over night it seems. Scraped off some of the paint on top of the still good paint. Not much left in the pot. Need to go grab a new one.
Also might buy the secret weapon minis paint for heat weapon effects, just wish I could buy it in store instead of having to order it online.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm about to move into a small studio in a big apartment complex. Normally to prime my minis I'd go outside and spray paint them. I no longer have that ability where I'm moving. Any suggestions on how to prime now?
Fan + Filter + Cardboard box setup?
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
I'm about to move into a small studio in a big apartment complex. Normally to prime my minis I'd go outside and spray paint them. I no longer have that ability where I'm moving. Any suggestions on how to prime now?
Fan + Filter + Cardboard box setup?
Brush on primer would be the easiest solution, but it's a lot slower than spraying.
I'm about to move into a small studio in a big apartment complex. Normally to prime my minis I'd go outside and spray paint them. I no longer have that ability where I'm moving. Any suggestions on how to prime now?
Fan + Filter + Cardboard box setup?
Brush on primer would be the easiest solution, but it's a lot slower than spraying.
I have bad luck with alcohol based brush on primer personally, but I would at least not expect the same results as a spray. If you check my last post on the previous page, I had a bunch of models I wanted to take seriously get very streaky because of the primer.
If you go brush on, test on something else first is my advice. I'm not 100% against it because sometimes you just gotta prime when the weather doesnt agree.
When I spray at my apartments I still go outside and just do it, I just make sure to have cardboard backing to catch any paint and make sure it doesnt hit the grass/pavement. It's not too difficult. I get weird looks from other people bringing their dogs out sometimes. I try not to spray if wind is going to push anything near them.
DiannaoChong on
0
Options
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I'm about to move into a small studio in a big apartment complex. Normally to prime my minis I'd go outside and spray paint them. I no longer have that ability where I'm moving. Any suggestions on how to prime now?
Fan + Filter + Cardboard box setup?
Can + Box + Riding the Primer Can Dragon.
+4
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited April 2019
How easy is it to brush paint GW air paints?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Pretty much any airbrush paint is totally fine to brush with. Just don't need to thin them down much.
Cool, been meaning to use the paint for my Space Wolves shoulder pads just wasn't sure if it would work.
I think my airbrush is dead. Or the pump. No idea. Only air will come through the airbrush, every time I pull back on the trigger nothing comes through. Tried water and air paints. The pump is also being weird. I have had it set to a resting 30 psi and when in use can sit at 20 to 25 psi but when I tried adjusting it higher it went up to 60 psi and then sat at a resting 20 psi which wasn't normal.
Can't figure out what is wrong. I clean it after every use and nothing seems clogged.
I also have bubbles constantly building up in the paint pot.
Edit: I replaced the little nozzle tip with the other airbrush I have with the super tiny paint pot (don't know what the point of it is) and now the airbrush works fine. Ran some russ grey through it to try out. It was not great, seemed to clog up fairly fast. I think I was putting way too much paint in.
Might still fight through it to paint the knight armor plates the Space Wolves colors. It is a lot smoother and faster than with a brush.
Turns out they make an air russ grey. Wonder if it is worth it.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
Options
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Sounds like the nozzle tip and/or needle of your airbrush is clogged. You need to remove them and give both a good soak in some cleaner.
Also, swapping tips between brushes like that is not recommended – the needle is steel and the tip is typically brass and they are machined to a close fit so using the wrong combination could distort or damage the tip.
Sounds like the nozzle tip and/or needle of your airbrush is clogged. You need to remove them and give both a good soak in some cleaner.
Also, swapping tips between brushes like that is not recommended – the needle is steel and the tip is typically brass and they are machined to a close fit so using the wrong combination could distort or damage the tip.
There wasn't any clog, the brass tip had a chunk missing. As far as the needle I used the need from the other airbrush so hopefully it wont be an issue.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited April 2019
Kind of screwed up with airbrushing some normal GW paint. It refused to come out and ended up going on way to wet. Dried them off and used a brush but I'm not that happy about it.
I did get it to go well on the top carapace and it looks good so I'm a little more frustrated.
Feeling a little better after some detail work. The shin armor has two coats of gold so I just need to clean it up. Other stuff has 0 to 1 coats.
The gold is making me feel better. It is making a big difference on the look, more than I thought it would. Just not sure if I should do the little bars on the carapace gold as well or leadbelcher.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+7
Options
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Purple
Hi, everyone! Quick question, do you think I could get away with just using Dullcote on my kodels instead of 'ardcoat, then Dullcote?
I know its better protected with the gloss, but even with dullcote after, the finish can still look to glossy afterwards.
0
Options
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Hi, everyone! Quick question, do you think I could get away with just using Dullcote on my kodels instead of 'ardcoat, then Dullcote?
I know its better protected with the gloss, but even with dullcote after, the finish can still look to glossy afterwards.
The gloss+matte thing is most likely a myth. It's having two layers that counts. You could just as well use two layers of dull cote (one thin then one thick).
+2
Options
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited April 2019
Purple
So I have a question regarding Crackle/Texture paints. Before applying it, should I spray my primer/base so it sticks better, and it can it painted over without flaking off? I'm going to try and make it look all Chaosy but I only have the Mars and Agrellan colors so I'd need to paint it black or purple at least to get the sort of effect I'm after.
Edit: also does it make more sense to apply it before, or after I put the model on?
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So I have a question regarding Crackle/Texture paints. Before applying it, should I spray my primer/base so it sticks better, and it can it painted over without flaking off? I'm going to try and make it look all Chaosy but I only have the Mars and Agrellan colors so I'd need to paint it black or purple at least to get the sort of effect I'm after.
Edit: also does it make more sense to apply it before, or after I put the model on?
I've found you need to prime first. Maybe also basecoat, since the layer beneath will show through the cracks; depends on the look you want.
If you glue the mini first, the mini will be "sunk" into the ground a little, since the texture paint has be be really thick. (Also, difficult to avoid getting any on the boots.) If you glue the mini after, you're gluing paint to paint, which is not ideal.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
0
Options
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So there's no ideal solution really?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I would absolutely prime first to give the crackle more to hold on to.
I glue little bits of spare sprue to the base as a riser and make sure not to get crackle paint on it so that the mini can be glued to that instead of having to muck around trying to glue directly to the crackle.
raises the model just that couple of mm you need so it isn't sunk into the dirt and provides a firm point to anchor the model to the base.
I have always used a thick layer of watered down ardcoat then a layer or 2 of lamian medium to remove the gloss works well to prevent the crackle flakes chipping off.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited April 2019
I'm aiming to finish the knight today. Warglaives will take a while because I want to buy the Space Wolves 3D printed pieces for them.
Did a glow effect on the shield that will sit in the right shoulder. I liked the second picture a lot. The last one feels kind of off to me but I think it looks goos for a first try at the glowing effect.
I put the armor plates on for a look, not glued in. It feels empty.
I might do this.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The shield should be pretty easy to get going.
For the head I want to do a red glow effect for the eyes. Anyone have suggestions for GW paints to use for that?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
Options
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
edited April 2019
Purple
White base, then hit it with a heavy Bloodletter glaze. Then, if you wanna go deeper, do a light coat of white in the center and hit it with a light Bloodletter glaze layer.
Extreaminatus on
0
Options
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I would absolutely prime first to give the crackle more to hold on to.
I glue little bits of spare sprue to the base as a riser and make sure not to get crackle paint on it so that the mini can be glued to that instead of having to muck around trying to glue directly to the crackle.
raises the model just that couple of mm you need so it isn't sunk into the dirt and provides a firm point to anchor the model to the base.
I have always used a thick layer of watered down ardcoat then a layer or 2 of lamian medium to remove the gloss works well to prevent the crackle flakes chipping off.
I'll have to pick those up, foolishly I tend not to use varnish much, but I have to pick up some more primer so that will be a good opportunity.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I would absolutely prime first to give the crackle more to hold on to.
I glue little bits of spare sprue to the base as a riser and make sure not to get crackle paint on it so that the mini can be glued to that instead of having to muck around trying to glue directly to the crackle.
raises the model just that couple of mm you need so it isn't sunk into the dirt and provides a firm point to anchor the model to the base.
I have always used a thick layer of watered down ardcoat then a layer or 2 of lamian medium to remove the gloss works well to prevent the crackle flakes chipping off.
I'll have to pick those up, foolishly I tend not to use varnish much, but I have to pick up some more primer so that will be a good opportunity.
A piece of plasticard under the boots will also work. And Viking is right: You absolutely have to varnish the base, or the paint will flake off.
It sounds like I'm down on the texture paint bases, but honestly it's still both the easiest and best-looking bases.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
+1
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
White base, then hit it with a heavy Bloodletter glaze. Then, if you wanna go deeper, do a light coat of white in the center and hit it with a light Bloodletter glaze layer.
Thank you, I will give that a try. The head feels so bland, hopefully this will get it to a better place for me.
I didn't finish the knight today but I started painting bits to glue to the armor plates. Started with the wolf tails. Still need to dry brush but I like them so far.
Before dry brush
After dry brush. Not really into it.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+2
Options
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I would absolutely prime first to give the crackle more to hold on to.
I glue little bits of spare sprue to the base as a riser and make sure not to get crackle paint on it so that the mini can be glued to that instead of having to muck around trying to glue directly to the crackle.
raises the model just that couple of mm you need so it isn't sunk into the dirt and provides a firm point to anchor the model to the base.
I have always used a thick layer of watered odown ardcoat then a layer or 2 of lamian medium to remove the gloss works well to prevent the crackle flakes chipping off.
Should I use a similar process for varnishing my minis or is there a matte finish you'd recommend to put over the hardcoat? I've been reading mixed things about citadel's new munitorum varnish
Edit and is the ardcoat over the primer, or the crackle?
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I would absolutely prime first to give the crackle more to hold on to.
I glue little bits of spare sprue to the base as a riser and make sure not to get crackle paint on it so that the mini can be glued to that instead of having to muck around trying to glue directly to the crackle.
raises the model just that couple of mm you need so it isn't sunk into the dirt and provides a firm point to anchor the model to the base.
I have always used a thick layer of watered odown ardcoat then a layer or 2 of lamian medium to remove the gloss works well to prevent the crackle flakes chipping off.
Should I use a similar process for varnishing my minis or is there a matte finish you'd recommend to put over the hardcoat? I've been reading mixed things about citadel's new munitorum varnish
Edit and is the ardcoat over the primer, or the crackle?
for my Deathguard I primed and then painted the base with random greens and yellows, then hit it with a thick layer of the crackle paint so when it cracked the colour underneath could show through and give a nice toxic looking underlayer.
then varnish the crackled base to lock the flakes on and prevent them chipping off, then wash the whole thing with the medium to remove the gloss.
I am sure there are now decent matte varnishes you could use to simplify the process, but I have been doing it this way for years and it works for me.
I use pure black primer under the texture paint, but that's because a) I'm lazy, and b) I think it looks good; my bases are supposed to be cracked, dried earth, no magic or anything.
I fix everything with just matte varnish.
I bought a big tub (250 ml (8.5 fl oz)) of extra matte varnish from Panduro (a Swedish hobby store chain that also has stores here in Norway). It is, hands down, the best brush-on varnish I have used. Better than Vallejo and GW. I use it on everything, including keeping texture paint from flaking off.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
0
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
White base, then hit it with a heavy Bloodletter glaze. Then, if you wanna go deeper, do a light coat of white in the center and hit it with a light Bloodletter glaze layer.
Do you happen to have any pictures for reference for doing this? I've been doing some tests with it before painting the eyes of the knight and I can't quite get the effect I want.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
Options
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
White base, then hit it with a heavy Bloodletter glaze. Then, if you wanna go deeper, do a light coat of white in the center and hit it with a light Bloodletter glaze layer.
Do you happen to have any pictures for reference for doing this? I've been doing some tests with it before painting the eyes of the knight and I can't quite get the effect I want.
I sure don't, sorry. Went looking for some, but I don't have any that are worth sharing. The technique I described isn't going to give you the glow effect like you have on your shield, it's just a quick and dirty way to get some bright red in the recesses. If you're wanting to layer the glow effect up like you did for the shield, you're going to need to use more paints than white and Bloodletter glaze and that isn't something I can confidently provide any suggestions for.
0
Options
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited April 2019
Purple
So, is there a way to reliably remove excess super glue from details on a mini? Had a bit of excess glue seep onto the front of one of my Fiends and I'm worried the cloudy/greebly dried glue will fuck it up after I've sprayed it and I've heard a lot of mixed advice elsewhere
Specifically it looks like this, I'm wondering if I should expect it to smooth out once I spray on the base layer, or if I should be trying to clean this up, or if I've kinda screwed myself
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
0
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I finishes more of the small detail stuff I'll be gluing on. Just got the stomach shield and frost claw from the Space Wolves venerable dreadnought left to paint up. Going to put the frost claw on the avenger gatling cannon where that armor piece on the barrel goes.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
Also might buy the secret weapon minis paint for heat weapon effects, just wish I could buy it in store instead of having to order it online.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Fan + Filter + Cardboard box setup?
Brush on primer would be the easiest solution, but it's a lot slower than spraying.
I have bad luck with alcohol based brush on primer personally, but I would at least not expect the same results as a spray. If you check my last post on the previous page, I had a bunch of models I wanted to take seriously get very streaky because of the primer.
If you go brush on, test on something else first is my advice. I'm not 100% against it because sometimes you just gotta prime when the weather doesnt agree.
When I spray at my apartments I still go outside and just do it, I just make sure to have cardboard backing to catch any paint and make sure it doesnt hit the grass/pavement. It's not too difficult. I get weird looks from other people bringing their dogs out sometimes. I try not to spray if wind is going to push anything near them.
Can + Box + Riding the Primer Can Dragon.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Cool, been meaning to use the paint for my Space Wolves shoulder pads just wasn't sure if it would work.
I think my airbrush is dead. Or the pump. No idea. Only air will come through the airbrush, every time I pull back on the trigger nothing comes through. Tried water and air paints. The pump is also being weird. I have had it set to a resting 30 psi and when in use can sit at 20 to 25 psi but when I tried adjusting it higher it went up to 60 psi and then sat at a resting 20 psi which wasn't normal.
Can't figure out what is wrong. I clean it after every use and nothing seems clogged.
I also have bubbles constantly building up in the paint pot.
Edit: I replaced the little nozzle tip with the other airbrush I have with the super tiny paint pot (don't know what the point of it is) and now the airbrush works fine. Ran some russ grey through it to try out. It was not great, seemed to clog up fairly fast. I think I was putting way too much paint in.
Might still fight through it to paint the knight armor plates the Space Wolves colors. It is a lot smoother and faster than with a brush.
Turns out they make an air russ grey. Wonder if it is worth it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Also, swapping tips between brushes like that is not recommended – the needle is steel and the tip is typically brass and they are machined to a close fit so using the wrong combination could distort or damage the tip.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
There wasn't any clog, the brass tip had a chunk missing. As far as the needle I used the need from the other airbrush so hopefully it wont be an issue.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I did get it to go well on the top carapace and it looks good so I'm a little more frustrated.
Feeling a little better after some detail work. The shin armor has two coats of gold so I just need to clean it up. Other stuff has 0 to 1 coats.
The gold is making me feel better. It is making a big difference on the look, more than I thought it would. Just not sure if I should do the little bars on the carapace gold as well or leadbelcher.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I know its better protected with the gloss, but even with dullcote after, the finish can still look to glossy afterwards.
You're fine.
Depending on the amount of handling you probably don't even really need dullcote, it's just a good idea.
EDIT: oh hey my painting area got some upgrades recently:
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
They're pretty decent models for a board game, I think.
I also painted the feet. Had not done that before. A little messy but whatever, they are feet, they get messy.
Feel like I should do some dry brush on the armor but also doesn't feel like it needs it. The feet should probably get a dry brush though.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The gloss+matte thing is most likely a myth. It's having two layers that counts. You could just as well use two layers of dull cote (one thin then one thick).
Edit: also does it make more sense to apply it before, or after I put the model on?
I've found you need to prime first. Maybe also basecoat, since the layer beneath will show through the cracks; depends on the look you want.
If you glue the mini first, the mini will be "sunk" into the ground a little, since the texture paint has be be really thick. (Also, difficult to avoid getting any on the boots.) If you glue the mini after, you're gluing paint to paint, which is not ideal.
I glue little bits of spare sprue to the base as a riser and make sure not to get crackle paint on it so that the mini can be glued to that instead of having to muck around trying to glue directly to the crackle.
raises the model just that couple of mm you need so it isn't sunk into the dirt and provides a firm point to anchor the model to the base.
I have always used a thick layer of watered down ardcoat then a layer or 2 of lamian medium to remove the gloss works well to prevent the crackle flakes chipping off.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Did a glow effect on the shield that will sit in the right shoulder. I liked the second picture a lot. The last one feels kind of off to me but I think it looks goos for a first try at the glowing effect.
I put the armor plates on for a look, not glued in. It feels empty.
I might do this.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
For the head I want to do a red glow effect for the eyes. Anyone have suggestions for GW paints to use for that?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'll have to pick those up, foolishly I tend not to use varnish much, but I have to pick up some more primer so that will be a good opportunity.
A piece of plasticard under the boots will also work. And Viking is right: You absolutely have to varnish the base, or the paint will flake off.
It sounds like I'm down on the texture paint bases, but honestly it's still both the easiest and best-looking bases.
Thank you, I will give that a try. The head feels so bland, hopefully this will get it to a better place for me.
I didn't finish the knight today but I started painting bits to glue to the armor plates. Started with the wolf tails. Still need to dry brush but I like them so far.
Before dry brush
After dry brush. Not really into it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Should I use a similar process for varnishing my minis or is there a matte finish you'd recommend to put over the hardcoat? I've been reading mixed things about citadel's new munitorum varnish
Edit and is the ardcoat over the primer, or the crackle?
then varnish the crackled base to lock the flakes on and prevent them chipping off, then wash the whole thing with the medium to remove the gloss.
I am sure there are now decent matte varnishes you could use to simplify the process, but I have been doing it this way for years and it works for me.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I fix everything with just matte varnish.
I bought a big tub (250 ml (8.5 fl oz)) of extra matte varnish from Panduro (a Swedish hobby store chain that also has stores here in Norway). It is, hands down, the best brush-on varnish I have used. Better than Vallejo and GW. I use it on everything, including keeping texture paint from flaking off.
Do you happen to have any pictures for reference for doing this? I've been doing some tests with it before painting the eyes of the knight and I can't quite get the effect I want.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I sure don't, sorry. Went looking for some, but I don't have any that are worth sharing. The technique I described isn't going to give you the glow effect like you have on your shield, it's just a quick and dirty way to get some bright red in the recesses. If you're wanting to layer the glow effect up like you did for the shield, you're going to need to use more paints than white and Bloodletter glaze and that isn't something I can confidently provide any suggestions for.
Specifically it looks like this, I'm wondering if I should expect it to smooth out once I spray on the base layer, or if I should be trying to clean this up, or if I've kinda screwed myself
NSFW (?) due to Fiend breasts
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bHcUeIHQO4uP1x0pysHk6qaSoB7PNjKj/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vouV-DNoIrADLDrhce_M7YjGXII7RBrm/view
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Haven't tried them myself, because I'd never superglue a plastic model, unless it's during repairs.