Because I forgot it's May and therefore still light outside, I could still take the pictures today :biggrin:
Behold: the 1/144 Zoids MSS EMZ-26 Hammer Rock!
It has a chest piece that can open, for some slight interior detail I guess (bottom right).
Now how does it compare in size to the 1/144 MSS EPZ-003 Saber Tiger?
While the boxes were the same size, the Hammer Rock is about half the size of the tiger, but it is bulkier.
Look at their cockpits!
I don't put their pilots in there, because they would just rattle around when handling the models.
Look at these Zoid Empire Boys (all 1/144 scale):
Yup, Gundam-sized mobile suits are quite big compared to Zoids...
But the most important picture is this one:
Giddy up kitty!
PSN (PS4-Europe): Carolus-Billius
+8
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
NICE! Now I need to go see how the lineage works with Hammer Rock and Iron Kong.
My friend started work on his HMM Iron Kong (he was enamored with mine). He's just on the head and holy shit. So your Hammer rock will give me an accurate scale, hopefully!
... another friend is at ACen and walking the vendor booths. I'm kind of thankful he has only sent me pictures of Zoids I already have, and of Macross toys that are beyond his credit limit to pick up for me.
Thanks for sharing that video. I've been feeling burned out with a lot of my activities recently and it was super helpful for me to remember that it's okay to just take a break.
+2
CorporateLogoThe toilet knowshow I feelRegistered Userregular
My friend started work on his HMM Iron Kong (he was enamored with mine). He's just on the head and holy shit. So your Hammer rock will give me an accurate scale.
According to the Zoids Wiki, the following stats are given:
Hammer Rock : height 6.7m, weight 26 tons, max speed 180 km/h
Iron Kong: height 17.7m, 187 tons, 150 km/h
So the Kong is really a KONG.
They are both very speedy mon-ki-ki-mon-ki-ki-s!
(The Saber Tiger can go 200 km/h with its 78 tons).
PSN (PS4-Europe): Carolus-Billius
0
turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
More info for Athenor regarding the Hammer Rock (from the building manual):
I don't know Japanese, but I do wish the parts for that first variant were supplied, because thruster + really big gun + awesome looking head is a really nice combination...
I saw someone selling some of the planes from Ace Combat as well as gunpla and other things
Are those kits like normal plane kits? Are they in different colors? {he had several but nothing more than the generic shipping info and you are getting this}
It's this
And I think it's just a decal/waterslide sheet difference
0
miscellaneousinsanitygrass grows, birds fly, sun shines,and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered Userregular
I am just wondering how big the box with the 36 Maganacs would be
Some the size of the old CRT TVs, except that it doesn’t weigh 80kg/200 pounds?
At least you would have a box again to buy a fort/time machine with
WIP: Monkey is irritated because that 1/144 leg is already bigger than him:
I'm loving the brightness of it; orange and red is a good combination (don't know about the little bit of green though).
I bought this kit for my "one-eyed rainbow" project; I wanted mono-eye gunpla in all the colours of the rainbow, so that it would stand brightly on a shelf; this is the orange-red one.
So this is actually the first one of that "project" :biggrin:
PSN (PS4-Europe): Carolus-Billius
+7
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
edited May 2019
I finished building the PG Exia! And also an RG Exia! And dug the MG Exia (Repair) out of storage!
Yo, the MG don't hold up compared to these other scales. It flops all over the place, bits falling off.
(Yeah I still gotta decal the PG, I'm working up the nerve.)
Also, got a Molotow Liquid Chrome paint pen. With a few rare exceptions, every metallic sticker on the RG Exia has been done with a little application of Chrome paint instead!
Dark Raven X on
Oh brilliant
+13
turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
Ugh yeah that MG was a nightmare.
I kept on my shelf for only like 2 months before it got sent to storage.
0
TonkkaSome one in the club tonightHas stolen my ideas.Registered Userregular
I kept on my shelf for only like 2 months before it got sent to storage.
Its a bummer, because the design of the Exia Repair is my favourite! The broken sword, exposed eye lens and the shroud over the missing arm make for an awesome look, and as a kit it's only readily available in MG (though I believe there are P-Bandai versions available for the other scales)
Saw there are rumours of a full wave of MG Celestial Being Gundams based off the runners for Dynames, maybe there's an Exia 2.0 on the horizon too. I'd love to transplant the Repair parts to a better kit.
I've also been marathoning the anime! It's pretty poor, but it has its moments. I was disappointed to see the Repair look only exists for one scene. ;p
Hi thread I was just told about you by the mini painting thread and I have a question.
Crosspost question
At star wars celebration I picked up basically a gunpla model but of a b-wing fighter and I just put it together and it's cool but it's way too flat. I've never tried panel lining or weathering (I actually only have a little model painting experience but some bit of general painting knowledge from art classes) but I know I won't be happy till this looks like a rugged blockade buster fighter. Does anyone have recommendations for this kind of thing?"
Basically my model is sweet but looks kind of boring right now is it's baseline "is constructed" state. It's all just 3 solid colors but has a ton of panel lines that I could highlight at least and I'm interested in learning to weather it a bit. Also with the decals, do you recommend the stickers or wet decals more and also do you apply those before or after any sort of painting work?
turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
edited May 2019
Water slides will always look best, but they're a lot of work. Sticker style decals usually work best on light colors, hide the edges more. Bandai does some of their sticker decals with the printed part being bigger than the actual sticker, so no clear edge to worry about. I'm guessing the kit came with both?
You want to do any painting before decals, and your clear top coat after to seal everything.
Panel lining is the easiest way to make a model pop a bit. The simplest option is a micron pen (gundam markers makes a great 3 pack) and an eraser for cleanup. There's also liquid panel liner options but those are a bit more involved. Also want to do this before a top coat. The rule of thumb is gray on whites and light colors, black on dark colors, and brown on red and such. I personally prefer to use black on everything because I like the contrast.
Top coat isn't required of course, especially if you're not going to handle the kit a lot.
There are some Tamiya weathering kits that are pretty much makeup sets. A few colors and an applicator. They work really well, and they're good for adding soot, dirt, dust, mud, snow, rust, etc. to your kits. Tamiya Weathering Master is the name of the product.
And there are a lot of weathering tutorials on YouTube if you want to get some ideas.
Water slides will always look best, but they're a lot of work. Sticker style decals usually work best on light colors, hide the edges more. Bandai does some of their sticker decals with the printed part being bigger than the actual sticker, so no clear edge to worry about. I'm guessing the kit came with both?
You want to do any painting before decals, and your clear top coat after to seal everything.
Panel lining is the easiest way to make a model pop a bit. The simplest option is a micron pen (gundam markers makes a great 3 pack) and an eraser for cleanup. There's also liquid panel liner options but those are a bit more involved. Also want to do this before a top coat. The rule of thumb is gray on whites and light colors, black on dark colors, and brown on red and such. I personally prefer to use black on everything because I like the contrast.
Top coat isn't required of course, especially if you're not going to handle the kit a lot.
I've no experience with weathering though.
Yeah the kit came with both sticker and water decals. I wasn't sure entirely of the difference but assumed the water one would look more like a part of the model and the stickers would look like obviously a sticker but you trade off in amount of work.
And I didn't realize you could do it with micron pens. Is there a specific nib that is preferred? I think I have the whole size range plus some brush ones in black at least. I assumed I'd need some kind of ink wash or painting process for it. Do the pens give you any leeway for cleanup? Because I do have infinite of those from school but it seems like I'd have to have a very practiced hand here. Maybe I'll try it on the dark parts first because I won't need to worry about mistakes and I'll get good practice
Water slides will always look best, but they're a lot of work. Sticker style decals usually work best on light colors, hide the edges more. Bandai does some of their sticker decals with the printed part being bigger than the actual sticker, so no clear edge to worry about. I'm guessing the kit came with both?
You want to do any painting before decals, and your clear top coat after to seal everything.
Panel lining is the easiest way to make a model pop a bit. The simplest option is a micron pen (gundam markers makes a great 3 pack) and an eraser for cleanup. There's also liquid panel liner options but those are a bit more involved. Also want to do this before a top coat. The rule of thumb is gray on whites and light colors, black on dark colors, and brown on red and such. I personally prefer to use black on everything because I like the contrast.
Top coat isn't required of course, especially if you're not going to handle the kit a lot.
I've no experience with weathering though.
Yeah the kit came with both sticker and water decals. I wasn't sure entirely of the difference but assumed the water one would look more like a part of the model and the stickers would look like obviously a sticker but you trade off in amount of work.
And I didn't realize you could do it with micron pens. Is there a specific nib that is preferred? I think I have the whole size range plus some brush ones in black at least. I assumed I'd need some kind of ink wash or painting process for it. Do the pens give you any leeway for cleanup? Because I do have infinite of those from school but it seems like I'd have to have a very practiced hand here. Maybe I'll try it on the dark parts first because I won't need to worry about mistakes and I'll get good practice
These are the ones I bought. Got them over three years ago and the black one is only now starting to give up the ghost.
You can rub them off with an eraser, q-tip, or hell just your thumb, when they are fresh, and will also come off with alcohol if they've set or are down in a crevice you cant reach.
Here's a little video showing the markers and also liquid panel liner. They've got pros and cons but yeah, very hard to permanently mess up with the markers.
I started panel lining the Unicorn but this is a case where I actually prefer not to
In normal mode I kinda like the smooth white appearance more, and in Destroy mode there's so much other stuff going on and so many open panels that the detail added by lining is not really needed
Posts
https://youtu.be/vrTVi2kZtgU
In other news, I am only 17 pieces away from finishing a kit, so expect pictures tomorrow
Behold: the 1/144 Zoids MSS EMZ-26 Hammer Rock!
It has a chest piece that can open, for some slight interior detail I guess (bottom right).
Now how does it compare in size to the 1/144 MSS EPZ-003 Saber Tiger?
While the boxes were the same size, the Hammer Rock is about half the size of the tiger, but it is bulkier.
Look at their cockpits!
I don't put their pilots in there, because they would just rattle around when handling the models.
Look at these Zoid Empire Boys (all 1/144 scale):
Yup, Gundam-sized mobile suits are quite big compared to Zoids...
But the most important picture is this one:
Giddy up kitty!
My friend started work on his HMM Iron Kong (he was enamored with mine). He's just on the head and holy shit. So your Hammer rock will give me an accurate scale, hopefully!
... another friend is at ACen and walking the vendor booths. I'm kind of thankful he has only sent me pictures of Zoids I already have, and of Macross toys that are beyond his credit limit to pick up for me.
Hammer Rock : height 6.7m, weight 26 tons, max speed 180 km/h
Iron Kong: height 17.7m, 187 tons, 150 km/h
So the Kong is really a KONG.
They are both very speedy mon-ki-ki-mon-ki-ki-s!
(The Saber Tiger can go 200 km/h with its 78 tons).
pointing to myself in the mirror:
stop
buying
gunpla
omochajapan
i'm just gonna hope that comes out a few paychecks from now......
I don't know Japanese, but I do wish the parts for that first variant were supplied, because thruster + really big gun + awesome looking head is a really nice combination...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv13gl0a-FA
Are those kits like normal plane kits? Are they in different colors? {he had several but nothing more than the generic shipping info and you are getting this}
It's this
And I think it's just a decal/waterslide sheet difference
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/10183041
looks pretty similar to normal plane models, will require paint and glue
https://www.bluefinbrands.com/premium-bandai.html
RG Tallgeese 3 and MG Shenlong Liaoya are up for preorder till the end of May.
it's a good thing i still had those kits sitting in my shopping cart, that just saved me twentyish bucks on shipping
Some the size of the old CRT TVs, except that it doesn’t weigh 80kg/200 pounds?
At least you would have a box again to buy a fort/time machine with
I'm loving the brightness of it; orange and red is a good combination (don't know about the little bit of green though).
I bought this kit for my "one-eyed rainbow" project; I wanted mono-eye gunpla in all the colours of the rainbow, so that it would stand brightly on a shelf; this is the orange-red one.
So this is actually the first one of that "project" :biggrin:
Yo, the MG don't hold up compared to these other scales. It flops all over the place, bits falling off.
(Yeah I still gotta decal the PG, I'm working up the nerve.)
Also, got a Molotow Liquid Chrome paint pen. With a few rare exceptions, every metallic sticker on the RG Exia has been done with a little application of Chrome paint instead!
I kept on my shelf for only like 2 months before it got sent to storage.
Soon. . .
Its a bummer, because the design of the Exia Repair is my favourite! The broken sword, exposed eye lens and the shroud over the missing arm make for an awesome look, and as a kit it's only readily available in MG (though I believe there are P-Bandai versions available for the other scales)
Saw there are rumours of a full wave of MG Celestial Being Gundams based off the runners for Dynames, maybe there's an Exia 2.0 on the horizon too. I'd love to transplant the Repair parts to a better kit.
I've also been marathoning the anime! It's pretty poor, but it has its moments. I was disappointed to see the Repair look only exists for one scene. ;p
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI_8KqjdKf4&feature=youtu.be
Crosspost question
Basically my model is sweet but looks kind of boring right now is it's baseline "is constructed" state. It's all just 3 solid colors but has a ton of panel lines that I could highlight at least and I'm interested in learning to weather it a bit. Also with the decals, do you recommend the stickers or wet decals more and also do you apply those before or after any sort of painting work?
You want to do any painting before decals, and your clear top coat after to seal everything.
Panel lining is the easiest way to make a model pop a bit. The simplest option is a micron pen (gundam markers makes a great 3 pack) and an eraser for cleanup. There's also liquid panel liner options but those are a bit more involved. Also want to do this before a top coat. The rule of thumb is gray on whites and light colors, black on dark colors, and brown on red and such. I personally prefer to use black on everything because I like the contrast.
Top coat isn't required of course, especially if you're not going to handle the kit a lot.
I've no experience with weathering though.
And there are a lot of weathering tutorials on YouTube if you want to get some ideas.
I will pose this thing in Destroy mode and then never fiddle with it again
Yeah the kit came with both sticker and water decals. I wasn't sure entirely of the difference but assumed the water one would look more like a part of the model and the stickers would look like obviously a sticker but you trade off in amount of work.
And I didn't realize you could do it with micron pens. Is there a specific nib that is preferred? I think I have the whole size range plus some brush ones in black at least. I assumed I'd need some kind of ink wash or painting process for it. Do the pens give you any leeway for cleanup? Because I do have infinite of those from school but it seems like I'd have to have a very practiced hand here. Maybe I'll try it on the dark parts first because I won't need to worry about mistakes and I'll get good practice
1/144 Barbatos Lupus Rex, 1/100 Hi-Nu (these are in my closet)
P-Bandai 1/100 Re-GZ Custom (pre-ordered)
Too many to count (wish list)
These are the ones I bought. Got them over three years ago and the black one is only now starting to give up the ghost.
You can rub them off with an eraser, q-tip, or hell just your thumb, when they are fresh, and will also come off with alcohol if they've set or are down in a crevice you cant reach.
Here's a little video showing the markers and also liquid panel liner. They've got pros and cons but yeah, very hard to permanently mess up with the markers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DTdf4zD6ek
In normal mode I kinda like the smooth white appearance more, and in Destroy mode there's so much other stuff going on and so many open panels that the detail added by lining is not really needed