I messed around with contrast a little bit. I didn't take my time just to see how it would look a little rushed. Not the best work I've done but... it really wasn't bad for how long I spent on it.
Colours used:
Skeleton horde/Orc Flesh on the cloak
Tallasar Blue Shoulders
Bascillicum Grey for the armor
Black Templar for the weapon except the middle part with is Volupus Pink
Aethermatic Blue for the gem stone
Iyandan Yellow for the thunderbolts
Magos purple on the beads on the front (kinda rushed those a little)
Apothecary grey on the base except the pot which is Syish Purple. They ran together, I was definitely rushing that part. In the final picture the base was NOT yet dry.
How long did it take to paint it to that standard?
looks a million times better than the sea of grey I am usually presented with across the table.
I have noticed since I started showing up with a fully painted army that my group has made more of an effort with painting, I am hoping Contrast kicks that into gear if it is easy/quick enough for the non-painters.
That? That took me... half an hour-ish I want to say? Maybe even a little less. Probably 30 mins total if I had spent more time on the base.
It does handle a lot differently than paint and you have to be careful at areas where it interfaces if they aren't starting to dry, it can bleed together rather easily.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I painted up one of those models today with contrast. It was quick. The contrast paint is really transparent so I could clearly see some yellow underneath the Space Wolves grey.
The contrast paint being the way it is leads to some very easy wet blending or layering effects. I got a really nice mossy sandstone look to the base.
The Space Wolves grey is weird. It was kind of too transparent with one layer over wraithbone so I did another cost and it basically became Space Marines denim.
The color also looks good over metallics. I put a coat of Space Wolves grey, gryphon hound orange, and aethermatic blue over leadbelcher and they looked pretty solid after drying. I've always wondered what metallic denim would look like.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Why do people primer while the parts are on the spure?
I got a bunch of wraithguard 3 spures or 9 models and a few more aeldari things in the mail as part of a lot someone was selling
I don't know what they primered them with as it slides off when I use the revell glue. I do like the assembly handle because I do need to get tweezers but it makes putting together aeldari and necrons far easier
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Why do people primer while the parts are on the spure?
I got a bunch of wraithguard 3 spures or 9 models and a few more aeldari things in the mail as part of a lot someone was selling
I don't know what they primered them with as it slides off when I use the revell glue. I do like the assembly handle because I do need to get tweezers but it makes putting together aeldari and necrons far easier
I primed my knight and warglaive armor plates on the sprue. It was the easiest way to prime them and do sub assembly.
I have no idea when they are going to do another paint expo at the LGS but I want to enter with more than one model next time. I think I might enter an armiger but that wont really be much different from my knight so I might try a different vehicle.
I do plan on starting on a Ragnar primaris conversion so that will end up being a model I put into the next expo.
Also probably going to do a test of a gold and silver Necron with metallic armor plates tomorrow. Might see if the GW store by me will let me test the contrast paints over the metallic colors so I can see how they look.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I was looking at the gw page for the 10 paint bundle and meh, in € you can reduce the price from 52,20€ to 46€, so basically only the technical paint is free. Only way to increase the the the value is replacing the base colour with retributor armour which is a third more expensive than the other base colours.
Also a good chunk of contrast paints are already out of stock.
So I contrasted again. Spent slightly longer on this one and used some different colours just to see how they would look mostly. I apologize ahead of time for the finger in two of the photos but you can still the model fine. Enjoy the blurry finger. Time spent ~40mins. I did touch up some areas with the wraith bone this time instead of just bleeding it over. I did not wait for some areas to fully dry before painting others and yeah the paints will totally run together, if you're gonna paint two areas make sure one has at least partially dried.
Colours used (base was wraith bone):
Hammer - Aethermatic Blue on the head and end of handle, Volupus Pink for the grip
Gryph-Hound orange for the main part of the Armor
Talassar Blue for the blue of the robe, Apothecary white for the white/grey of the robe
Skeleton Horde for the belt and front part of the best
Iyandan Yellow for the anvils at the abdomen and on the shield
Aethermatic blue was also used on the potion and Scroll of the shield
Ultramarine blue for the top of the shield the shoulderpads and the kneecap
Black Templar for the hammer on the shield
Dark Angels Green for the necklace (was applied a little light)
Shyish Purple for the purple part of the base
Militarum Green for the green part of the base.
Blood Angels red for the top part of the helmet and the flourish.
Head of the hammer looks great! I'm unconvinced however stormcast and marines make the best test models. Though I guess the push fit nature of the sculpts is the main reason they are the demo test cases.
Head of the hammer looks great! I'm unconvinced however stormcast and marines make the best test models. Though I guess the push fit nature of the sculpts is the main reason they are the demo test cases.
GMG is doing a youtube mini series on the new paints where he tests them on different things, and he said they actually work very well on stuff like Infinity minis and less well on chunky flat surfaces like space marines, funnily enough.
Head of the hammer looks great! I'm unconvinced however stormcast and marines make the best test models. Though I guess the push fit nature of the sculpts is the main reason they are the demo test cases.
GMG is doing a youtube mini series on the new paints where he tests them on different things, and he said they actually work very well on stuff like Infinity minis and less well on chunky flat surfaces like space marines, funnily enough.
Head of the hammer looks great! I'm unconvinced however stormcast and marines make the best test models. Though I guess the push fit nature of the sculpts is the main reason they are the demo test cases.
GMG is doing a youtube mini series on the new paints where he tests them on different things, and he said they actually work very well on stuff like Infinity minis and less well on chunky flat surfaces like space marines, funnily enough.
Head of the hammer looks great! I'm unconvinced however stormcast and marines make the best test models. Though I guess the push fit nature of the sculpts is the main reason they are the demo test cases.
Anything with large, flat areas is going to look bad with contrast just like with washes. It's going to pool in places it shouldn't and look splotchy. I have yet to see a space marine or stormcast painted with contrast that actually looks good. Surely it's possible but it probably requires more careful application and adding in medium but at that point why not just paint normally?
Head of the hammer looks great! I'm unconvinced however stormcast and marines make the best test models. Though I guess the push fit nature of the sculpts is the main reason they are the demo test cases.
GMG is doing a youtube mini series on the new paints where he tests them on different things, and he said they actually work very well on stuff like Infinity minis and less well on chunky flat surfaces like space marines, funnily enough.
Ooohhh I really like the idea of a NOD themed GSC army. "Peace through power. Oh and the star gods."
Both ancient cults dedicated to harnessing the power of tyberiumranids
Clearly the Patriarch has to be Kane then.
Gonna need some converting.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Man, I dunno. I guess I'll wait until we start seeing more models painted this way at a volume of scale, but the overall look of contrast paints just doesn't do it for me at all. So far it really doesn't seem any better than someone who does solid blocks of colour with no shading - they both look wrong for different reasons.
Has anyone been doing tests with them over a basic zenith highlight prime job? Or are they absolutely designed to only go on over a spectrum of light grey to white?
Man, I dunno. I guess I'll wait until we start seeing more models painted this way at a volume of scale, but the overall look of contrast paints just doesn't do it for me at all. So far it really doesn't seem any better than someone who does solid blocks of colour with no shading - they both look wrong for different reasons.
Has anyone been doing tests with them over a basic zenith highlight prime job? Or are they absolutely designed to only go on over a spectrum of light grey to white?
It's not just for looks. It's also about ease. Using contrast paints is very easy to do and a lot quicker to get a model tabletop ready.
And yeah I've seen some Zenith but it was at my local store. You can even use contrast on a metallic based model.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Well, yes, that's what I'm getting at - it doesn't feel like it's much about looks at all and is entirely a product pitched on ease of use to get ... a result.
I understand helping people get something to the table that isn't just grey plastic, but something about this line and the push for it just seems off. What I've also said is that I'm willing to wait for more things to be painted and be proven wrong.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
At a base level contrast pretty much seems to be pretty similar to just applying a coloured wash over a basecoat, and you're then free to highlight over the top of it, which is how I start a lot of minis in any case so I'm interested in that aspect as a time-save if nothing else.
But people are starting to experiment and it definitely seems to have some further value if you know your way round a paintbrush.
Personally contrasts are going to speed up horde troop choices that I don't care to spend hundreds of hours painting and to make some small stuff like bolters belts and pouches and such go faster.
While most of the demo pieces have been showing off how you can do an entire model very quickly with just contrast paints, I'm just super excited to work it into a greater repertoire of paints and techniques. The demonstrations are going ham on just contrast paints because that's what they're trying to show off.
Personally contrasts are going to speed up horde troop choices that I don't care to spend hundreds of hours painting and to make some small stuff like bolters belts and pouches and such go faster.
It was one of my debates about my necrons and tyranid armies as the only thing stopping me right now is where do I put them after I am done. As this is one of the big things pushing me to get an airbrush to do this and primer coats
Just a heads up, if you airbrush contrast paints, you won't get the "autoshading" aspect of it.
that is not surprising.
Pushing Washes through an Airbrush does the same thing, you just get a nice even coverage without the flow effect.
From what I have seen, each coat of Contrast through an Airbrush has a pretty significant impact on the strength of the colour. could be some neat effects gained after a little experimentation.
Like all paint I can't see this becoming my only paint, but it will be a handy tool in my collection for doing specific things. combined with other styles of paints I can see it being neat addition.
At a base level contrast pretty much seems to be pretty similar to just applying a coloured wash over a basecoat, and you're then free to highlight over the top of it, which is how I start a lot of minis in any case so I'm interested in that aspect as a time-save if nothing else.
But people are starting to experiment and it definitely seems to have some further value if you know your way round a paintbrush.
Except this completely removes the effects of contrast paints. He's just working with glazes which is how most people do NMM anyway. So, again, why not just paint normally?
At a base level contrast pretty much seems to be pretty similar to just applying a coloured wash over a basecoat, and you're then free to highlight over the top of it, which is how I start a lot of minis in any case so I'm interested in that aspect as a time-save if nothing else.
But people are starting to experiment and it definitely seems to have some further value if you know your way round a paintbrush.
Except this completely removes the effects of contrast paints. He's just working with glazes which is how most people do NMM anyway. So, again, why not just paint normally?
Speed seems like the reason to use contrast. He says in his tutorial for the leg that it was much quicker.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Well, yes, that's what I'm getting at - it doesn't feel like it's much about looks at all and is entirely a product pitched on ease of use to get ... a result.
I understand helping people get something to the table that isn't just grey plastic, but something about this line and the push for it just seems off. What I've also said is that I'm willing to wait for more things to be painted and be proven wrong.
The only thing I can think that might be ‘off’ is that it’s not a product designed for you so you feel left out. People wanting a quicker, easier way to get ‘a result’ because they have a daunting amount of bare plastic they play with are a huge market! Let them be excited.
That, feels about the sum of it for me anyway. I wish I was more excited about this new paint, but im just like, what. Maybe once more average Joes like myself work it into their routines I can get a better feel for if it is any use to me.
All the examples I see are opposite ends of the spectrum. 30 mins mess machines and clearly super talented peeps who could pull off shit like that nmm with finger paints if they wanted to.
Anyway, heres a spooky lad I knocked out real quick.
The paints are going to be awesome for pumping out those horde armies and or making base coats quicker, as is I can see my self using them and than spending an inordinate amount of time on my highlights and layers
Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
My LGS can't guarantee their stock of contrast paint so they aren't doing pre orders which is a bummer. I wanted to pre order the whole line and use my 20% off discount for spending a certain amount in store.
I'm a little bummed out.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
Gonna make sure next time to hit all the details.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Colours used:
Skeleton horde/Orc Flesh on the cloak
Tallasar Blue Shoulders
Bascillicum Grey for the armor
Black Templar for the weapon except the middle part with is Volupus Pink
Aethermatic Blue for the gem stone
Iyandan Yellow for the thunderbolts
Magos purple on the beads on the front (kinda rushed those a little)
Apothecary grey on the base except the pot which is Syish Purple. They ran together, I was definitely rushing that part. In the final picture the base was NOT yet dry.
looks a million times better than the sea of grey I am usually presented with across the table.
I have noticed since I started showing up with a fully painted army that my group has made more of an effort with painting, I am hoping Contrast kicks that into gear if it is easy/quick enough for the non-painters.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
It does handle a lot differently than paint and you have to be careful at areas where it interfaces if they aren't starting to dry, it can bleed together rather easily.
The contrast paint being the way it is leads to some very easy wet blending or layering effects. I got a really nice mossy sandstone look to the base.
The Space Wolves grey is weird. It was kind of too transparent with one layer over wraithbone so I did another cost and it basically became Space Marines denim.
The color also looks good over metallics. I put a coat of Space Wolves grey, gryphon hound orange, and aethermatic blue over leadbelcher and they looked pretty solid after drying. I've always wondered what metallic denim would look like.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I got a bunch of wraithguard 3 spures or 9 models and a few more aeldari things in the mail as part of a lot someone was selling
I don't know what they primered them with as it slides off when I use the revell glue. I do like the assembly handle because I do need to get tweezers but it makes putting together aeldari and necrons far easier
I primed my knight and warglaive armor plates on the sprue. It was the easiest way to prime them and do sub assembly.
I have no idea when they are going to do another paint expo at the LGS but I want to enter with more than one model next time. I think I might enter an armiger but that wont really be much different from my knight so I might try a different vehicle.
I do plan on starting on a Ragnar primaris conversion so that will end up being a model I put into the next expo.
Also probably going to do a test of a gold and silver Necron with metallic armor plates tomorrow. Might see if the GW store by me will let me test the contrast paints over the metallic colors so I can see how they look.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
whoops, fixed the link
It got pasted in funny, just delete the extra https part and try again? Like so:
These are taken from this gallery.
https://imgur.com/a/5MZq3oJ
So I actually know what stuff looks like on models I am getting my list together now.
Also a good chunk of contrast paints are already out of stock.
Was aiming for some mix of Engineers from Prometheus and the Brotherhood of NOD
Colours used (base was wraith bone):
Hammer - Aethermatic Blue on the head and end of handle, Volupus Pink for the grip
Gryph-Hound orange for the main part of the Armor
Talassar Blue for the blue of the robe, Apothecary white for the white/grey of the robe
Skeleton Horde for the belt and front part of the best
Iyandan Yellow for the anvils at the abdomen and on the shield
Aethermatic blue was also used on the potion and Scroll of the shield
Ultramarine blue for the top of the shield the shoulderpads and the kneecap
Black Templar for the hammer on the shield
Dark Angels Green for the necklace (was applied a little light)
Shyish Purple for the purple part of the base
Militarum Green for the green part of the base.
Blood Angels red for the top part of the helmet and the flourish.
GMG is doing a youtube mini series on the new paints where he tests them on different things, and he said they actually work very well on stuff like Infinity minis and less well on chunky flat surfaces like space marines, funnily enough.
Both ancient cults dedicated to harnessing the power of tyberiumranids
Clearly the Patriarch has to be Kane then.
Anything with large, flat areas is going to look bad with contrast just like with washes. It's going to pool in places it shouldn't and look splotchy. I have yet to see a space marine or stormcast painted with contrast that actually looks good. Surely it's possible but it probably requires more careful application and adding in medium but at that point why not just paint normally?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
You do have to be super careful about pooling though. You can see on the back of the cape where I needed to be more careful.
Gonna need some converting.
Has anyone been doing tests with them over a basic zenith highlight prime job? Or are they absolutely designed to only go on over a spectrum of light grey to white?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
It's not just for looks. It's also about ease. Using contrast paints is very easy to do and a lot quicker to get a model tabletop ready.
And yeah I've seen some Zenith but it was at my local store. You can even use contrast on a metallic based model.
I understand helping people get something to the table that isn't just grey plastic, but something about this line and the push for it just seems off. What I've also said is that I'm willing to wait for more things to be painted and be proven wrong.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
But people are starting to experiment and it definitely seems to have some further value if you know your way round a paintbrush.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It was one of my debates about my necrons and tyranid armies as the only thing stopping me right now is where do I put them after I am done. As this is one of the big things pushing me to get an airbrush to do this and primer coats
Pushing Washes through an Airbrush does the same thing, you just get a nice even coverage without the flow effect.
From what I have seen, each coat of Contrast through an Airbrush has a pretty significant impact on the strength of the colour. could be some neat effects gained after a little experimentation.
Like all paint I can't see this becoming my only paint, but it will be a handy tool in my collection for doing specific things. combined with other styles of paints I can see it being neat addition.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Except this completely removes the effects of contrast paints. He's just working with glazes which is how most people do NMM anyway. So, again, why not just paint normally?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Speed seems like the reason to use contrast. He says in his tutorial for the leg that it was much quicker.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The only thing I can think that might be ‘off’ is that it’s not a product designed for you so you feel left out. People wanting a quicker, easier way to get ‘a result’ because they have a daunting amount of bare plastic they play with are a huge market! Let them be excited.
All the examples I see are opposite ends of the spectrum. 30 mins mess machines and clearly super talented peeps who could pull off shit like that nmm with finger paints if they wanted to.
Anyway, heres a spooky lad I knocked out real quick.
I'm a little bummed out.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.