My local shop had sold out of contrast black already by the time I got there, but the rest of my list was still in. Substituted it for the darkest brown as closest available alternative.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So far I'm liking how my UCM ships are turning out
But no two are the exact same shade of green >.>
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Stopped into my LGS last night on the way home from work to grab a Ryza rust and they had the new rack up with all the contrast paints out.... except they weren't allowed to sell me any :rotate:
They were nice enough to set aside the paints I want so that I can grab them today on the way home from work. Super stoked to try these out tonight.
First contrast try out. Pretty nice! Unsurprisingly, great on big uniform areas like the base but areas with lots of small details still need a lot of going back to clean up. Did a bit of dry brushing to bring out things like the scars as the darkest brown (cygor) had not been so great at leaving the raised areas lighter.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Got 1 of each paint and 1 rattle can of grey seer and wraithbone.
Turns out the LGS managed to get a last minute order fulfilled and had 18 of each color.
I switched my work shift with someone so I go in later but was able to get the paint this morning but I don't get off til 8:30. Wish I could paint at work.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Oh, hey, you may have missed it today in all the Contrast hoopla but GW also released their new instant lava paint today. Called Mordant Earth, it’s a crackling technical paint like Agrellan Earth or Martian Ironearth, but it’s black. So that’s two or three steps saved at least.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
I am trying to paint a stripe in the same place on the top/bottom/side of this ship and it is causing me actual mental pain trying to visualize how to get it to line up on both sides. I don't know why,
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
For those that follow Ashe Barker of GMG he did abut 7 videos showing off how the contrast paints work on different thing setc and than the last video was him painting a Nurgle guy from AoS and how he worked them up from the initial wash etc! Only drawback I’m hearing is they take twice as long to dry.
Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."
I bought the cards for the drakken underworld but not the models i feel in retrospect it was a mistake.
Now i am in a debate about the 10 colors for 57 deal gw is running as i just don't k ow what base paints to get
So contrast are dark magic. I have painted more cultist this morning than I have for months. They are so easy to do.
This about an hour/hour and a half with basing of work. I am using a celestra grey base on black primer because these cultist have been black primed for ages. It works wonders. I just paint out the colored regions like the flesh or the pink or the leather. Dry a bit, drop in contrast. And move on. Finish with the weapons and base. Its so easy.
+8
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited June 2019
Purple
This might be a dumb question but I've heard conflicting information. Is Lahmian Medium good for making my own washes? (and if so, what sort of ratio works well?
Edit: Also I've got a cleaned up dropper from an old bottle of vitamin D I was thinking of using to better control how much water and medium I add to stuff.
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Put together the running Space Marines hero model I had laying around to test out the orange on, I want to paint my Nomad army orange.
I fucked up the prime so hard. I don't know if it is because Phoenix is a heat nightmare right now or spraying in bursts was a bad idea but it went on too thick. Painted the orange anyway, just a test model.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
This might be a dumb question but I've heard conflicting information. Is Lahmian Medium good for making my own washes? (and if so, what sort of ratio works well?
Edit: Also I've got a cleaned up dropper from an old bottle of vitamin D I was thinking of using to better control how much water and medium I add to stuff.
Lahmian medium is more for glazes. It reduces the opacity without changing the flow or drying properties. You need something like Vallejo matte medium. Maybe also a drying retardant?
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Yellow is always a PITA but best to start with an off-white (cream) base - then you can either patiently layer up using thinned yellow paints or cheat and use the new GW Contrast yellows. OR cheat harder and use an airbrush. Basically, brushing on yellow is hard, find a way not to if you can.
Basically what I was thinking was keeping that rust color for the bottom half and doing yellow on top for the first model (im open to suggestions on that)
For the contrast, I guess my best bet would be to scrape off the rust I have already and do a base of white instead?
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
No need to scrape it off; a decent opaque (Vallejo Model Colour or Citadel Base) white or bone colour will go right over that easily enough.
If you fancy trying for something other than pure flat yellow you can use a bit of sponge to apply the base colour first, building it up in random layers and leaving some of the rust showing through before applying your yellow top coat to get an aged/beaten effect.
Scrolling through all the surface primers that Vallejo has, is there anything that anyone has seen that approximates the new contrast wraithbone base paint? Trying to find a less expensive way to prime that color than GW rattle cans.
I have white and grey Vallejo surface primer, the white is a huge pain in the ass and is very white, not a cream. The grey I think is closer to Grey Seer and isn't what I want either.
I just want an airbrush friendly primer that's close to wraithbone so I'm not having to prime and basecoat in two steps.
E - I saw Vallejo has a "skeleton bone" primer but it looks much darker than wraithbone judging by the swatches?
Scrolling through all the surface primers that Vallejo has, is there anything that anyone has seen that approximates the new contrast wraithbone base paint? Trying to find a less expensive way to prime that color than GW rattle cans.
I have white and grey Vallejo surface primer, the white is a huge pain in the ass and is very white, not a cream. The grey I think is closer to Grey Seer and isn't what I want either.
I just want an airbrush friendly primer that's close to wraithbone so I'm not having to prime and basecoat in two steps.
E - I saw Vallejo has a "skeleton bone" primer but it looks much darker than wraithbone judging by the swatches?
Skeleton bone is a pretty tan looking color.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+1
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
This might be a dumb question but I've heard conflicting information. Is Lahmian Medium good for making my own washes? (and if so, what sort of ratio works well?
Edit: Also I've got a cleaned up dropper from an old bottle of vitamin D I was thinking of using to better control how much water and medium I add to stuff.
Lahmian medium is more for glazes. It reduces the opacity without changing the flow or drying properties. You need something like Vallejo matte medium. Maybe also a drying retardant?
Hmm well I'll probably resort to the good old fashioned water and dish-soap for now.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited June 2019
Used grey seer and then the black contrast paint for the cloth on one of my Tau for KT. Not too pleased with it.
I think the black pin wash I did (poorly) are taking away from the black contrast paint.
Besides the drone, stealthsuit, and useless shotgun fire warrior I pin washed I think I'm gonna leave the rest alone. They might be mono color but I like it and I've suddenly lost a lot of the desire to do the detail work.
I'm actually having a hard time wanting to paint at all which sucks because I just got all those paints.
I wanted to paint my Infinity models with some orange but the orange contrast paint looks so weird on both wraithbone and grey seer.
I've hit a wall as far as painting. Hopefully doing up this Ragnar primaris conversion will revitalize me.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
His post really makes me feel good about picking up contrasts for my Orks
Glad he tried a couple of skin tones in there as well
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Kinda want to see some yellow armor in contrast since that's what I'm hoping to hook my friend with.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
But no two are the exact same shade of green >.>
They were nice enough to set aside the paints I want so that I can grab them today on the way home from work. Super stoked to try these out tonight.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
First contrast try out. Pretty nice! Unsurprisingly, great on big uniform areas like the base but areas with lots of small details still need a lot of going back to clean up. Did a bit of dry brushing to bring out things like the scars as the darkest brown (cygor) had not been so great at leaving the raised areas lighter.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Turns out the LGS managed to get a last minute order fulfilled and had 18 of each color.
I switched my work shift with someone so I go in later but was able to get the paint this morning but I don't get off til 8:30. Wish I could paint at work.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Now i am in a debate about the 10 colors for 57 deal gw is running as i just don't k ow what base paints to get
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Free shipping in the UK always a plus.
This about an hour/hour and a half with basing of work. I am using a celestra grey base on black primer because these cultist have been black primed for ages. It works wonders. I just paint out the colored regions like the flesh or the pink or the leather. Dry a bit, drop in contrast. And move on. Finish with the weapons and base. Its so easy.
Edit: Also I've got a cleaned up dropper from an old bottle of vitamin D I was thinking of using to better control how much water and medium I add to stuff.
I fucked up the prime so hard. I don't know if it is because Phoenix is a heat nightmare right now or spraying in bursts was a bad idea but it went on too thick. Painted the orange anyway, just a test model.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Lahmian medium is more for glazes. It reduces the opacity without changing the flow or drying properties. You need something like Vallejo matte medium. Maybe also a drying retardant?
Any advice for painting yellow
Im trying to paint a rusty yellow space truck but oof forgot how much yellow sucks
It will sound just kind of off but really the new contrast yellows are kind of creepy magic and I am not sure else how to describe them.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Might as well post the model
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Basically what I was thinking was keeping that rust color for the bottom half and doing yellow on top for the first model (im open to suggestions on that)
For the contrast, I guess my best bet would be to scrape off the rust I have already and do a base of white instead?
If you fancy trying for something other than pure flat yellow you can use a bit of sponge to apply the base colour first, building it up in random layers and leaving some of the rust showing through before applying your yellow top coat to get an aged/beaten effect.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Well time to track down a Nazdreg yellow
Undercoat with bone/flesh colour. That's all I got. Does not help with the rusty effect though.
Maybe I should try a different scheme and save this for the second one
Maybe a light blue?
I have white and grey Vallejo surface primer, the white is a huge pain in the ass and is very white, not a cream. The grey I think is closer to Grey Seer and isn't what I want either.
I just want an airbrush friendly primer that's close to wraithbone so I'm not having to prime and basecoat in two steps.
E - I saw Vallejo has a "skeleton bone" primer but it looks much darker than wraithbone judging by the swatches?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Skeleton bone is a pretty tan looking color.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Hmm well I'll probably resort to the good old fashioned water and dish-soap for now.
I think the black pin wash I did (poorly) are taking away from the black contrast paint.
Besides the drone, stealthsuit, and useless shotgun fire warrior I pin washed I think I'm gonna leave the rest alone. They might be mono color but I like it and I've suddenly lost a lot of the desire to do the detail work.
I'm actually having a hard time wanting to paint at all which sucks because I just got all those paints.
I wanted to paint my Infinity models with some orange but the orange contrast paint looks so weird on both wraithbone and grey seer.
I've hit a wall as far as painting. Hopefully doing up this Ragnar primaris conversion will revitalize me.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.