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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?

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Posts

  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    I agree, but I don’t know how to fix it with the time I have left.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Do you have some texture paint or large flock (fill in the top with white glue or something)? Basically, just something that you could apply around your stones to build up the height before applying a layer of mud again.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Really liking this lamp so far. Gonna get the booth today as well. Might do some painting later tonight.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    Do you have some texture paint or large flock (fill in the top with white glue or something)? Basically, just something that you could apply around your stones to build up the height before applying a layer of mud again.

    I switched to Stirland mud, and that seems to retain volume better. Fingers crossed, I’m going to be cutting it close. Not going to have time to varnish it unfortunately...

    These are gifts that I’m making and I’m leaving the state on Wednesday, so I’m wrapping them up and giving them out tonight.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    Do any of y'all have any knowledge regarding wet palettes? I think it's probably about time I looked at updating from scraping my paint off of a white tile.
    Are there any decent brands to look at, or am I better off just DIY-ing it, and if so does anyone know of any decent tutorials for doing so?
    Cheers!

  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    edited June 2019
    A different, worse colour
    I use a red grass games one. Would recommend.

    Its probably overpriced. Of course you could DIY one, but you know what. Its lovely.

    J on
  • MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    1. Take a very shallow box or better yet, a lid.
    2. Put some gauze in there and soak it with water. Make sure the surface is flat and pour out anything that can be poured out (just keep the water that the gauze has soaked).
    3. Put some sticker paper (the type of paper that stickers are transported on) on that gauze, shiny side up. Don't use a super thick sticker paper.

    That's it. I use some other material instead of the gauze that I plundered from my first aid kit, but I don't know what it's called. You could also probably use a thin sponge.
    Here's what I've got:
    aIxIn5d.jpg

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    I've been DIY for a few years now, and it's easy and harmless to try. You can always pick up something fancier afterwards if you're not satisfied.

    Literally, mine have been:
    - Plastic pocket from a blister pack of some kind (the ones I have enjoyed the most are the ones Fantasy Flight LCGs come in)
    - The sponge from a blister pack
    - Cut sheets of parchment paper on top

    That's it. You can see it in the picture I posted of my workspace on the previous page. Obvious notes on this are that it's small - which can be good or bad depending on how much of a pain you find it to switch sheets VS how much space you have for your setup - and that it doesn't _really_ close so it'll always be exposed to air, thus preventing you from keeping paint for days and also it will evaporate clean of water in about 36 hours.

  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    Has anyone tried out the new Horus and lupercal greens from GW yet?

    I really want to see how they look on a model and not just a swatch. My lgs doesn't have them in stock.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Has anyone tried out the new Horus and lupercal greens from GW yet?

    I really want to see how they look on a model and not just a swatch. My lgs doesn't have them in stock.

    I am curious about Word Bearer's red as well

    Grey Knight Sliver is a light sliver with a tint of blue

    ln0r2lxql6dn.png

    I have yet to use the Night lords blue as I don't know if I want to try it off a grey or white primer

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I have the death world trees from the Deathwatch KT starter and I wanted to paint one up with neon colors and another one with color shift and then decide which I like better and do the third in my favorite color scheme.

    What is a good color for the trunk when doing this? I feel like the color shift would look better with a non color shifted trunk but I can't decide what color to do for either.

    Any suggestions?

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    I feel like I’d you’re doing bright colors for the foliage then a really deep black-green would work for the trunk to make the rest even brighter. Put streaks of the brighter colors in the ridges of the trunks as highlights.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Badablack wrote: »
    I feel like I’d you’re doing bright colors for the foliage then a really deep black-green would work for the trunk to make the rest even brighter. Put streaks of the brighter colors in the ridges of the trunks as highlights.

    Or a more neutral grey-green or grey-brown depending on how the leaves are going to look.

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I really need to get a lamp as painting by the light on the couch or by the glow of the computer screen is not helping
    ixyamarqs3dp.png

  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    Purple
    Here's my UCM ships, mostly done. There's definitely touch up and detail stuff I could do with them, but for the most part I'm pleased with how they came out

    GP9TmL1.jpg

    kSDw7mr.jpg

    k83bY0S.jpg

    Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Hot.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    This is what I bought for the colors for the trees.
    39jL9mz.jpg

    I'm thinking of using orange, green, yellow, pink, and red for parts of the trees.

    Plan is to prime them white and I think the gryphon charger grey for contrast is a pretty good grey green so I might use that for the trunk.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Purple
    I saw the alien trees painted using contrast paints with colors like that in Twitter. Those should look really good.

    asxcjbppb2eo.jpg
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Should I put the trees on a base?

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I am interested to see how you get on with the scale75 paints. I have that set but mostly use em for small stuff. Cool set likes.

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    I'm curious about the line, but not so curious I could justify buying them. Hope they work out for you~

  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    edited June 2019
    A different, worse colour
    They are quite thick. Very transparent, the white is actually metallic, makes a great spot highlight.

    Thin em plenty and apply in LOADS of layers.

    J on
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Finding a way to only get paint on the leaves of the first tree I'm airbrushing is annoying and slowing me down. I think I'm gonna try using paper to catch any paint that might hit anything but the leaves. Put a hole in the center of the paper with a cut to it and slide in right under the leaves.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    Purple
    I'm trying to decide what kind of wash would work best on a bronze/brass mix. I want to keep it metallic but honestly I don't usually use washes on metallic paints, so I don't really know what to expect. Will it make it more matte/less shiny, are there "metallic washes" I could be using?

    Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Purple
    Gloss washes. Agrax gloss is probably okay for bronze. I prefer green tones for brass but that's just me.

    PSN/NNID/Steam: Dr_Keenbean
    3DS: 1650-8480-6786
    Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Probably a question for @J more than anyone else I actively know of, but I have more questions about peoples' experiences with Micro Set / Micro Sol ... I only flag J because I know he's also worked with Gunpla, but big whatevers.

    Now that I've applied some much newer decals (than the ones I had used with those decades-old airplane models) to the A-wings and done my passes, it still feels like Sol isn't really breaking them down. Some seem better affected than others, though it's not a huge difference, and I put on a second top coat this morning to try and level out the still visible seam before I start weathering. Is that degree of border visibility normal, or should I be expecting them to actually look like paint?

    (Honestly, with this one it's more a concern because of the weathering - I know I'll get visible seams and have to work around those areas specifically. It wouldn't really matter if it was a clean model)

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    In my experience the visibility of the seam really depends on the quality/thickness o the decal sheet. I used some age old decals from some Revell model that ended up almost seamless and some other newer decals where the seems where pretty visible.

    Getting one or two coats of varnish on top of the decal helps with the seams.

  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited June 2019
    A different, worse colour
    I just finished putting decals on 30 marines (4 decals each). While microset/sol are pretty much required for any sort of non-flat decal application, I found they do take a bit of finagling and a lot of steps to get the best results (which i found do look pretty much painted on. I cant see any seams or edges on mine).

    - gloss coat the application area. This will help decal seal more closely because of the smoother surface.
    -Apply some micro-set. I'm not sure exactly what microset does aside smell like vinegar, but I think it has lower surface-tension than water, so your decal wont float around as much when you're trying to place it.
    -Place decal. duh. I use needlenosed tweezers and find they work quite well.
    -Wait for a bit of the microset to dry so the decal doesnt move around as much in the next step.
    -dab a blob of microsol on the decal, but dont bother with trying to shape it much (you'll probably just dislodge the decal). This is just to start the microsol softening up the decal. As it dries, the decal will naturally start to shape to the application area.
    -Wait 5-10 min, and then apply another coat of microsol, this time using a soft brush to soften out any bumps or creases. The decal should be nice and gel-like.
    -^ repeat previous step until the decal is compleatly smoothed onto the surface. Depending on the shape of the application area or size of the decal, this can take a lot of passes. Most of my marine pads took 3 or 4 coats to fully "melt" down the decal.
    -Allow area to fully dry, then apply another layer of gloss varnish over the decal. This will seal it in place and eliminate whatever edges are still visible.
    -Depending on what your intended finish will be, apply a matte or satin varnish over everything.

    If you don't do any of the gloss/varnishing steps, you will definitely get visible seams. Microsol just helps with shaping the decal, varnish is what "blends" the decal material onto the model's material.

    McGibs on
    website_header.jpg
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Yeah, I had a semi-gloss base (I was out of gloss and figured it was worth the experiment) and followed exactly that process. I applied at least 7 applications of Micro-Sol but wasn't seeing a tangible result so figured it was about as good as I was going to get. I guess it would be worth experimenting again later and trying 10-15 just to see how it goes.
    Ah well, for now I am where I am. Everyone cross your fingers that the second coat does its job. :P

  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    I didn’t have microset/microsol doing mine and had to content myself with cutting a bunch of small incisions. I did the multiple layers of varnish though. I’ll probably give those directions a chance for the next round.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I don't have anything to add beyond that Bandai decals are also quite thick.

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    That's actually helpful because of how few I've encountered otherwise. I'll keep that in mind going forward.

  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Do you have any photos of what they look like currently?

    And speaking of be-decaled marines, here they are!
    After about two solid months of painting every day, my Retro Marines are finally table top ready for my big tournament in 2 weeks. Still need to do the displayboard, and whatever lenses/highlighting I can fit in, but I'm pretty proud of what I got considering it was all grey plastic at the start of May.
    3yn01oftptay.jpg

    website_header.jpg
  • NipsNips He/Him Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Purple
    Does anyone here have any experience with fixing when spray varnish frosts up on the model?

    I specifically (and foolishly) used an old-ish can of Army Painter Anti-Shine Matte spray, and (like a dummy because I've had this problem with this can before) it left a pretty noticable frosting.

    I've tried at least two methods to fix this (gloss over the frost to fix it; reapply the matte and heat gently to reactivate the varnish) to exactly zero success.

    Unless someone here has an amazing insight, I think I'm left with doing a paint-over on some of the more offending parts of these models, and then calling it done.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Did some work on the first death world tree. Liking it so far. Some of the orange side still shows some white through. Might hit it with some more of the orange. Gonna clean up the blue and orange on the trunk with Wraithbone base later and then start on the trunk and details. I also might leave the trunk connected to the leaves alone since getting those might be rough.

    PK5Mdzt.jpg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • RiusRius Globex CEO Nobody ever says ItalyRegistered User regular
    I have those trees to paint myself and I've been thinking of doing them with Contrast, so I appreciate you posting your progress pics <3

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    One of the interesting roads I went down that I have yet to see and now I am very curious about is painting Harlequin, with contrast or with a combo of classic paint

    As you can get that washed out green yellow of the Masque of the Veiled Path

  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles But we decide which is right and which is an illusion.Registered User regular
    edited June 2019
    A different, worse colour
    McGibs wrote: »
    Do you have any photos of what they look like currently?

    And speaking of be-decaled marines, here they are!
    After about two solid months of painting every day, my Retro Marines are finally table top ready for my big tournament in 2 weeks. Still need to do the displayboard, and whatever lenses/highlighting I can fit in, but I'm pretty proud of what I got considering it was all grey plastic at the start of May.
    3yn01oftptay.jpg

    @McGibs I don't suppose that Genestealer Cult vehicle you were modifying as a counts-as choice for this army is photo-ready?

    This is such a cool theme, I was actually thinking a few days ago about asking if you had any progress updates for it.

    H3Knuckles on
    If you're curious about my icon; it's an update of the early Lego Castle theme's "Black Falcons" faction.
    camo_sig2-400.png
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    GSC Ridgerunners with the wheels removed would make killer Land Speeders.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited June 2019
    A different, worse colour
    This is the beastie in question (of which I have two of)
    admech-razerback.jpg

    I was originally going to run them as lazer-backs (doesnt look it, but its almost exactly the same dimensions as a rhino hull), but the venerable dreads ended up stealing their anti-tank thunder so I havn't found a place for them yet.
    I miiiight make them into laser-destroyer demolishers or something with a bit more punch... but sadly it doesn't look like rhino-chassis vehicles are going to get new love anytime soon. They're too small to run as sicaran chassis or the venator tank destroyer would be a shoe in.
    Maybe if I end up with an admech allied detachment I'll run them as the new hovertanks? Those look pretty gnarly. My local meta comp is pretty weighted against soup lists, so I'd be at a CP penalty for pretty much any tournament I went to.

    McGibs on
    website_header.jpg
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