You can make the notification go away by click+hold+swipe off the side.
Yes, this is extremely stupid.
No, I don't know of any other way to do it.
Yeah, I found that out myself last night. It's not so bad when it's just a single notification. But friends holding a converstion in a discord server might send 2-5 in quick succession. Which is real annoying when there's a ui button behind the notifications that I need to press to continue the game.
Thanks for looking at the question, both of you. I'm thinking I'll just keep notifications off most of the time, it was only out of convenience that I was looking for a way to keep them (but out of the way), since a single short message I can read before the notification goes away and I wouldn't have to click away from a game every time.
Focus Assist settings lets you set what goes on with notifications while you're in a game.
You can make the notification go away by click+hold+swipe off the side.
Yes, this is extremely stupid.
No, I don't know of any other way to do it.
Yeah, I found that out myself last night. It's not so bad when it's just a single notification. But friends holding a converstion in a discord server might send 2-5 in quick succession. Which is real annoying when there's a ui button behind the notifications that I need to press to continue the game.
Thanks for looking at the question, both of you. I'm thinking I'll just keep notifications off most of the time, it was only out of convenience that I was looking for a way to keep them (but out of the way), since a single short message I can read before the notification goes away and I wouldn't have to click away from a game every time.
You could turn off notifications only for discord. There is also something called focus assist mode you can turn on that will stop notifications only while you have it on. There is also a way to disable notifications only while you are in certain programs, but I don't know how to enable that for a specific app.
You can make the notification go away by click+hold+swipe off the side.
Yes, this is extremely stupid.
No, I don't know of any other way to do it.
Yeah, I found that out myself last night. It's not so bad when it's just a single notification. But friends holding a converstion in a discord server might send 2-5 in quick succession. Which is real annoying when there's a ui button behind the notifications that I need to press to continue the game.
Thanks for looking at the question, both of you. I'm thinking I'll just keep notifications off most of the time, it was only out of convenience that I was looking for a way to keep them (but out of the way), since a single short message I can read before the notification goes away and I wouldn't have to click away from a game every time.
You could turn off notifications only for discord. There is also something called focus assist mode you can turn on that will stop notifications only while you have it on. There is also a way to disable notifications only while you are in certain programs, but I don't know how to enable that for a specific app.
Yeah. I looked at Focus Assist. That determines I’m in a game by it being full-screened. Given that I will take borderless windowed always and forever unless there is no other option, it’s of limited usefulness.
You can make the notification go away by click+hold+swipe off the side.
Yes, this is extremely stupid.
No, I don't know of any other way to do it.
Yeah, I found that out myself last night. It's not so bad when it's just a single notification. But friends holding a converstion in a discord server might send 2-5 in quick succession. Which is real annoying when there's a ui button behind the notifications that I need to press to continue the game.
Thanks for looking at the question, both of you. I'm thinking I'll just keep notifications off most of the time, it was only out of convenience that I was looking for a way to keep them (but out of the way), since a single short message I can read before the notification goes away and I wouldn't have to click away from a game every time.
You could turn off notifications only for discord. There is also something called focus assist mode you can turn on that will stop notifications only while you have it on. There is also a way to disable notifications only while you are in certain programs, but I don't know how to enable that for a specific app.
Yeah. I looked at Focus Assist. That determines I’m in a game by it being full-screened. Given that I will take borderless windowed always and forever unless there is no other option, it’s of limited usefulness.
You can turn it on manually by right clicking the notification button in the task bar.
Ok, so I've got a problem. Someone mentioned in this thread that you can now set volume output per app as a new feature.
Before the update, I did very much just that, but via the regular old audio mixer. Ever since the update, it seems like whatever settings I had saved on old apps seems to "carry over" even though I set the apps to 100% in the new feature, and at level with everything else in the audio mixer. This is especially a problem in Diablo and Overwatch, which I turned really low so I could listen to a podcast. I can't for the life of me get them to a normal volume, the green bars in the audio mixer reach a fraction of the set volume, so the actual app audio output (or rather *set* output) seems to be the issue, but every option I tried didn't crank it to what it ostensibly should.
Reinstalled the audio drivers already, didn't do jack :S
Trying to make sure I understand properly: Going to sound settings->App volume and device preferences and turning everything up/down doesn't do anything?
Trying to make sure I understand properly: Going to sound settings->App volume and device preferences and turning everything up/down doesn't do anything?
Correct. Sort of. Imagine this:
Before the update, I had Diablo 3 set at 5% volume in the audio mixer (Diablo was, for some reason, superloud before relative to other programs). Windows got updated. Diablo is, according to the mixer, at the same level as everything else, but just as quiet as I had it set before. In sound settings -> App volume it is at 100%. I clicked the "reset all" button there, reinstalled the audio drivers, fiddled with the in-game audio settings, I can not get the volume up
sorry if I'm making this sound more confusing than it already is ^^
That sounds annoying and just a guess for something to check: The levels of your speakers/headphones in sound control panel? That would be effecting everything, but who knows.
Ok, switching on "loudness equalization" (I believe it's called, my OS is not set to English) in audio enhancements did the trick. Which is funny, because before I had to make sure all those enhancements are deactivated, because that caused issues.
Well, I personally prefer things not to reboot on their own.
A couple of laptops ago (so about a decade back, give or take) I had a machine that, a handful of times, would wake itself up out of sleep mode (!) and reboot itself in my goddamn laptop bag. More than once I only became aware that it had done that when it was already trying to cook itself to death.
This was before the age of SSDs so I kept it in sleep so I didn't have to wait an age for it to boot up. But I've never had another machine pull itself out of sleep for a reboot of its own volition. And this wasn't with any visible pending updates or anything, either.
It did have Vista, but I don't recall that ever being a complaint made about Vista.
My 37LG50, the first LCD television I ever owned, developed a glitch in its remote sensor (which had to be replaced more than once). It caused the television to power up at night (when I still had cable television, and was routing it through my Xbox One).
It started when I lived in a particularly small 1 bedroom apartment. Nothing to make you up out of bed at 2 in the morning like your television turning on to Adult Swim or whatever you were watching, full volume.
Well, I personally prefer things not to reboot on their own.
Neither do I. But the Update function is supposed to be able to. Considering that I had to leave the fucking thing on all night to download, then leave the damned thing on while I go to work to install, the very least it could have done was completely finish the whole process while I was away.
Upgraded to 1903, took just over an hour from starting the download to being done. Which I think was a bit longer than 1803 took?
Obviously I don't have 1803 running now to compare, but is it my imagination or is the outline of the default mouse pointer slightly slimmer now? (The thinking wheel certainly is.) It might just not be scaling the same as it did or something (I've got a 1440p display running at 150% scaling because laptop). The resizeable pointer is an interesting addition but it goes up in rather bigger jumps than I'd expected. And the biggest size is just hilarious.
This is so fucking dumb. I shouldn't have to disable SpeedStep and Turbo Mode in my BIOS to get 1903 to run. Also I'm making some assumptions but I'm guessing that's also why I was on 1803 instead of 1809.
0
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
This is so fucking dumb. I shouldn't have to disable SpeedStep and Turbo Mode in my BIOS to get 1903 to run. Also I'm making some assumptions but I'm guessing that's also why I was on 1803 instead of 1809.
Do you have a USB storage device inserted? I know that's a big hangup for the install.
I never got 1809 either. I know the initial release was blocked for my laptop model because of a known issue, but it just never happened after I assume (?) it would have probably been fixed.
Funnily enough that exact issue - the display not coming back on after waking up from sleep mode - is one my previous laptop had under Win7, and I just worked around it by never using sleep mode!
This is so fucking dumb. I shouldn't have to disable SpeedStep and Turbo Mode in my BIOS to get 1903 to run. Also I'm making some assumptions but I'm guessing that's also why I was on 1803 instead of 1809.
Do you have a USB storage device inserted? I know that's a big hangup for the install.
That was a hangup for mine as well, but removing it and rebooting still didn't allow for an update and I didn't see any other bulletins that affected my PC. It eventually updated a bit over a week ago.
Rollers are red, chargers are blue....omae wa mou shindeiru
0
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I think I ended up forcing it with the media creation tool.
has 1809 been removed? I was going to update to 1809 today, but every link from every google hit I've seen so far no longer goes to 1809, but to 1903 instead.
EDIT: sigh, found a link to a MS download page for the media creation tool and was clearly labeled on the file as being for 1809, but nope. It's actually 1903. Oh well. I normally like to wait 6 months, but we'll see how this goes
Also, for those of you still on 1803 (or older), microsoft is now starting to push 1903 to those versions. For those that are on 1809, you still have to manually initiate the upgrade.
@Mugsley poked me over this direction, but it wasn't in the op and a handful of searches didn't clue me in. Or I'm blind.
Getting a complete new PC refresh on Tuesday / Wednesday, going from an Intel Ivybridge to an AMD Ryzen 3k. Somehow, I don't think it'll boot if I just toss the drive in and pray.
Software license wise, I've gone from a comped copy of 7 Ultimate from my job at the time, to Windows 8 Pro digital directly from Microsoft ($40) back in 2013, to the free Windows 10 Pro upgrade.
I'm running the media creation wizard right now so I'll have that ready. My PC is setup as a 500GB SSD with a 1TB, a 2TB SSHD, and a 4TB, with my Users folders and some software being on the 1TB drive, Steam on the 2TB, and "stuff" (all my old reformats et all) on the 4TB drive.
My plan is to just put the new PC together, put the SSD in all by it's lonesome, and run the USB to do a clean install on the new machine. I have my Windows 8 CD key, as well as what apparently is a generic Windows 10 key. I have signed into my Microsoft account on my Windows 10 PC.
How hard is it going to be to move my license over to the new system? Looking into it, I either use a slmgr command line command to de-register my PC and then register the new PC? Or since I upgraded from Windows 8 Pro, I just use my Windows 8 Pro key?
I will be moving the PSU over from the old PC to the new one, so anything that I need to do on the old PC beforehand, I'd like to do before shutting down that last time.
Edit: Also, apparently I'm on 1803. Woo.
KiTA on
0
Options
OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
You may be able to just move the drive over. I did that 5 or 6 years ago when I went from some AMD quad core to my current i5-3570K. If you want to give it a shot, I'd say go for just flipping the drive over and see what happens, and if it doesn't work, then go with the bare install route.
+1
Options
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Howdy thread, I've got a maybe futzy install of windows 10 in my machine. However I'm trying to get it to go through the boot recovery utility but I'm getting stuck as I set the computer up as a lanbox but don't remember the dumb password I set for friends to use.
Is there a way to bypass the login requirement and run the utility or nuke it and run a fresh install
Posts
Focus Assist settings lets you set what goes on with notifications while you're in a game.
You could turn off notifications only for discord. There is also something called focus assist mode you can turn on that will stop notifications only while you have it on. There is also a way to disable notifications only while you are in certain programs, but I don't know how to enable that for a specific app.
Yeah. I looked at Focus Assist. That determines I’m in a game by it being full-screened. Given that I will take borderless windowed always and forever unless there is no other option, it’s of limited usefulness.
You can turn it on manually by right clicking the notification button in the task bar.
Before the update, I did very much just that, but via the regular old audio mixer. Ever since the update, it seems like whatever settings I had saved on old apps seems to "carry over" even though I set the apps to 100% in the new feature, and at level with everything else in the audio mixer. This is especially a problem in Diablo and Overwatch, which I turned really low so I could listen to a podcast. I can't for the life of me get them to a normal volume, the green bars in the audio mixer reach a fraction of the set volume, so the actual app audio output (or rather *set* output) seems to be the issue, but every option I tried didn't crank it to what it ostensibly should.
Reinstalled the audio drivers already, didn't do jack :S
Correct. Sort of. Imagine this:
Before the update, I had Diablo 3 set at 5% volume in the audio mixer (Diablo was, for some reason, superloud before relative to other programs). Windows got updated. Diablo is, according to the mixer, at the same level as everything else, but just as quiet as I had it set before. In sound settings -> App volume it is at 100%. I clicked the "reset all" button there, reinstalled the audio drivers, fiddled with the in-game audio settings, I can not get the volume up
sorry if I'm making this sound more confusing than it already is ^^
I'll probably try and redownload Overwatch, see if that does anything, because, uh, I'd like to hear things in-game
I'm hearing things again! Yay!
On the other hand, it did not take an entire night. But I also finally got my PC to reach +200 mbps over wired ethernet, after weeks of confusion.
It was at ~94% downloaded when I left.
A couple of laptops ago (so about a decade back, give or take) I had a machine that, a handful of times, would wake itself up out of sleep mode (!) and reboot itself in my goddamn laptop bag. More than once I only became aware that it had done that when it was already trying to cook itself to death.
This was before the age of SSDs so I kept it in sleep so I didn't have to wait an age for it to boot up. But I've never had another machine pull itself out of sleep for a reboot of its own volition. And this wasn't with any visible pending updates or anything, either.
Steam | XBL
My 37LG50, the first LCD television I ever owned, developed a glitch in its remote sensor (which had to be replaced more than once). It caused the television to power up at night (when I still had cable television, and was routing it through my Xbox One).
It started when I lived in a particularly small 1 bedroom apartment. Nothing to make you up out of bed at 2 in the morning like your television turning on to Adult Swim or whatever you were watching, full volume.
Neither do I. But the Update function is supposed to be able to. Considering that I had to leave the fucking thing on all night to download, then leave the damned thing on while I go to work to install, the very least it could have done was completely finish the whole process while I was away.
Obviously I don't have 1803 running now to compare, but is it my imagination or is the outline of the default mouse pointer slightly slimmer now? (The thinking wheel certainly is.) It might just not be scaling the same as it did or something (I've got a 1440p display running at 150% scaling because laptop). The resizeable pointer is an interesting addition but it goes up in rather bigger jumps than I'd expected. And the biggest size is just hilarious.
Steam | XBL
Do you have a USB storage device inserted? I know that's a big hangup for the install.
Funnily enough that exact issue - the display not coming back on after waking up from sleep mode - is one my previous laptop had under Win7, and I just worked around it by never using sleep mode!
Steam | XBL
EDIT: sigh, found a link to a MS download page for the media creation tool and was clearly labeled on the file as being for 1809, but nope. It's actually 1903. Oh well. I normally like to wait 6 months, but we'll see how this goes
Enlist in Star Citizen! Citizenship must be earned!
Getting a complete new PC refresh on Tuesday / Wednesday, going from an Intel Ivybridge to an AMD Ryzen 3k. Somehow, I don't think it'll boot if I just toss the drive in and pray.
Software license wise, I've gone from a comped copy of 7 Ultimate from my job at the time, to Windows 8 Pro digital directly from Microsoft ($40) back in 2013, to the free Windows 10 Pro upgrade.
I'm running the media creation wizard right now so I'll have that ready. My PC is setup as a 500GB SSD with a 1TB, a 2TB SSHD, and a 4TB, with my Users folders and some software being on the 1TB drive, Steam on the 2TB, and "stuff" (all my old reformats et all) on the 4TB drive.
My plan is to just put the new PC together, put the SSD in all by it's lonesome, and run the USB to do a clean install on the new machine. I have my Windows 8 CD key, as well as what apparently is a generic Windows 10 key. I have signed into my Microsoft account on my Windows 10 PC.
How hard is it going to be to move my license over to the new system? Looking into it, I either use a slmgr command line command to de-register my PC and then register the new PC? Or since I upgraded from Windows 8 Pro, I just use my Windows 8 Pro key?
I will be moving the PSU over from the old PC to the new one, so anything that I need to do on the old PC beforehand, I'd like to do before shutting down that last time.
Edit: Also, apparently I'm on 1803. Woo.
Is there anything I need to do in order to make certain there won't be any issues using my license on the new machine?
May have to call and say you replaced the motherboard if it won't activate, they seem to be good about that.
Is there a way to bypass the login requirement and run the utility or nuke it and run a fresh install
Want to play co-op games? Feel free to hit me up!
If you've signed into a Microsoft account with your current machine, you shouldn't have any problem on the new one.