TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
A different, worse colour
Tested out the Magos Purple contrast paint on a daemonette and it came out pretty much how I hoped it would. Contrast seems uniquely good for GW daemons because they have a lot of texture and are 90% one color
I feel like I'm hitting a bit of a plateau in painting. Anyone got any criticisms for me based on my Chariot above? I feel like I need something to work on and not just a vague sense of "this isn't as great as it could be."
I feel like I'm hitting a bit of a plateau in painting. Anyone got any criticisms for me based on my Chariot above? I feel like I need something to work on and not just a vague sense of "this isn't as great as it could be."
I think your highlighting works already pretty well and will improve further just with practice. What that model could use is some shadows to give it more depth. For a start I'd go with washes. The metals you can give a wash all over I think (black for the silver, brown for the gold), while with the blue armour I would apply some washes only in the recesses. Depending on what effect you want to achieve a dark green or blue or even purple or red could work, with a black wash in the deeper recesses maybe. THink about where differnt materials overly or parts of the armou go over other parts. The areas can use more shadow to seperate the parts from each other.
honovere on
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I feel like I'm hitting a bit of a plateau in painting. Anyone got any criticisms for me based on my Chariot above? I feel like I need something to work on and not just a vague sense of "this isn't as great as it could be."
I think you'd benefit from working on the depth of your shading. You're doing a great job of highlighting things, but it looks like it's base colour + highlight with no working up or extra layers? Bar-none, the easiest place to practice this sort of thing is capes, because of their shapes and general smoothness. It's a lot more difficult to do interesting shading on flat areas without an airbrush (like the chariot's main body, for example), so I'd focus on just trying to get more colour into your details at the moment~
I wish I could offer you some tips on improving metallic areas, but I've never been good at that myself and very, very rarely use metallic colours.
Metal base. Brown/black/red washes just applied over and over. Highlight and add rust. Half the time I don't even wait for them to fully dry. Just aimed more towards the hilt as I applied more.
I feel like I'm hitting a bit of a plateau in painting. Anyone got any criticisms for me based on my Chariot above? I feel like I need something to work on and not just a vague sense of "this isn't as great as it could be."
I think your highlighting works already pretty well and will improve further just with practice. What that model could use is some shadows to give it more depth. For a start I'd go with washes. The metals you can give a wash all over I think (black for the silver, brown for the gold), while with the blue armour I would apply some washes only in the recesses. Depending on what effect you want to achieve a dark green or blue or even purple or red could work, with a black wash in the deeper recesses maybe. THink about where differnt materials overly or parts of the armou go over other parts. The areas can use more shadow to seperate the parts from each other.
Hmm I did use reikland fleshshade on the gold for the warm gold look and of course nuln oil on the leadbelcher.
I used a very thinned down nuln oil on the blue just to try to get the recesses and avoid that smeared look nuln oil can bring. I think layering in general is a good next step though.
I feel like I'm hitting a bit of a plateau in painting. Anyone got any criticisms for me based on my Chariot above? I feel like I need something to work on and not just a vague sense of "this isn't as great as it could be."
I think your highlighting works already pretty well and will improve further just with practice. What that model could use is some shadows to give it more depth. For a start I'd go with washes. The metals you can give a wash all over I think (black for the silver, brown for the gold), while with the blue armour I would apply some washes only in the recesses. Depending on what effect you want to achieve a dark green or blue or even purple or red could work, with a black wash in the deeper recesses maybe. THink about where differnt materials overly or parts of the armou go over other parts. The areas can use more shadow to seperate the parts from each other.
Hmm I did use reikland fleshshade on the gold for the warm gold look and of course nuln oil on the leadbelcher.
I used a very thinned down nuln oil on the blue just to try to get the recesses and avoid that smeared look nuln oil can bring. I think layering in general is a good next step though.
In the recesses you can go with undiluted washes, I think. And for steel or silver you can go pretty heavy all over with extra layer in the recesses. Reikland fleshade is okay for gold all over but for deeper shades, go darker, either brown or if you want to experiment a bit maybe purple, because it contrasts nicely with the yellow part of the gold.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited July 2019
Purple
I think I'll just paint over the silvered edges. I also have some rose and thorn stencils and an airbrush I was going to use, but I'll stick with that and putting silver on the bladed bits of their armor instead of putting a 'razor' edge on every edge of their armor. It's still an idea I like, maybe in the future I'll go back and touch them up that way but for now I like the pinkish red edging/highlighting work I already did
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I feel like I'm hitting a bit of a plateau in painting. Anyone got any criticisms for me based on my Chariot above? I feel like I need something to work on and not just a vague sense of "this isn't as great as it could be."
I think your highlighting works already pretty well and will improve further just with practice. What that model could use is some shadows to give it more depth. For a start I'd go with washes. The metals you can give a wash all over I think (black for the silver, brown for the gold), while with the blue armour I would apply some washes only in the recesses. Depending on what effect you want to achieve a dark green or blue or even purple or red could work, with a black wash in the deeper recesses maybe. THink about where differnt materials overly or parts of the armou go over other parts. The areas can use more shadow to seperate the parts from each other.
Hmm I did use reikland fleshshade on the gold for the warm gold look and of course nuln oil on the leadbelcher.
I used a very thinned down nuln oil on the blue just to try to get the recesses and avoid that smeared look nuln oil can bring. I think layering in general is a good next step though.
In the recesses you can go with undiluted washes, I think. And for steel or silver you can go pretty heavy all over with extra layer in the recesses. Reikland fleshade is okay for gold all over but for deeper shades, go darker, either brown or if you want to experiment a bit maybe purple, because it contrasts nicely with the yellow part of the gold.
I've used purple washes before on my orange power armor marines just to get the gold to contrast. A folder gold as opposed to a warmer. Layering washes on a single colour isn't something I've done before and I'll give it a shot in the bear future.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Started the zenithal highlight for my frostgrave warband. Bunch of reaper minis models.
Kind of looking forward to painting these.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Really reading the Harlequin painting quide and just some mental arguments
Part of me wants to try to do it with contrast paint the other by the book {it's not as scary as I thought} But since they don't make ceramite white anymore and I have to get kislev flesh to finish my tyranids I kind of just want to go to the GW store and ask.
But it might be the same employee that talked me into night lords blue to do my kill team without telling me the highlight {tempted to do that oil wash I showed in the painting thread since the more I look at it the more I feel that might work}
But it's other mental arguments of should I get the bronze/brass as well to finish my necrons and do the metals on my harlequins...
Yay for mental loops
Tested out the Magos Purple contrast paint on a daemonette and it came out pretty much how I hoped it would. Contrast seems uniquely good for GW daemons because they have a lot of texture and are 90% one color
That’s an amazing result. I bought a bunch of contrast paints for some friends and family to get into 40k, but we couldn’t get results like that. How did you do it?
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited July 2019
Did the zenithal with grey seer and then wraithbone. I can definitely see the difference but it isn't super noticeable. Hope this goes well for the painting step.
The flash kind of kills the effect a bit.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
That’s an amazing result. I bought a bunch of contrast paints for some friends and family to get into 40k, but we couldn’t get results like that. How did you do it?
-I used the grey seer contrast primer
-I didn't thin it with anything but I did wipe it on a palette to get rid of excess
-After painting it on I used a second brush and tapped it onto areas it was pooling to soak it up
That's all I can think of. Maybe there are other steps I'm not thinking of that could make a difference
Have already started work on my Adepticon team tournament Farsight Enclaves. I'm liking the results so far but I think they just need... something and I don't know what that something is. Obviously basing will make a big difference but the team is still deciding on what to do on that front. Threaded crappy pictures for comment (my picture booth is at a friend's house so shitty windowsill pictures it is).
Crisis Suits
Firewarrior (shoulder pad not attached yet, have a set ordered from shapeways that aren't ready yet)
Jesus Christ he is glopping that stuff on about twice as thick as it should be. All that thick pooling on the flat surfaces is really easily avoidable.
I posted it because it does give a good look at the contrast colors and shows what if someone slapped them on what would like
Still I am tempted to get some of the yellows and green to do the masque of the veiled path harlequins though the book makes it look easy...
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
This is what my brother pulled off with mostly contrast.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited July 2019
I've been trying to think of a way to do a spooky ghost effect for my frostgrave warband but I can't think of how to do it.
I was planning on possibly using hexwraith flame or nighthaunt gloom and glazing it on the legs of the models and around their feet to give a spooky glow.
Has anyone tried this? Has it worked?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've been trying to think of a way to do a spooky ghost effect for my frostgrave warband but I can't think of how to do it.
I was planning on possibly using hexwraith flame or nighthaunt gloom and glazing it on the legs of the models and around their feet to give a spooky glow.
Has anyone tried this? Has it worked?
Nihilakh oxide over white with a white drybrush is instant easy spooky.
I gently brushed ulthuan grey round where my ghosts touch the basing material.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited July 2019
Purple
So I was thinking about getting a respirator before I do airbrushing, and one that was recommended was the 3M Paint Project Respirator. One thing I'm curious about is the bit where it says "for workplace/occupational use only"
WTF is that about
Edit: I assume that means "it's only graded for workplace/occupational use" but it's worded a bit... oddly.
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So I was thinking about getting a respirator before I do airbrushing, and one that was recommended was the 3M Paint Project Respirator. One thing I'm curious about is the bit where it says "for workplace/occupational use only"
WTF is that about.
Nasty stuff
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So I was thinking about getting a respirator before I do airbrushing, and one that was recommended was the 3M Paint Project Respirator. One thing I'm curious about is the bit where it says "for workplace/occupational use only"
WTF is that about.
Nasty stuff
Like "This filters paint, not poison gas"?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So I was thinking about getting a respirator before I do airbrushing, and one that was recommended was the 3M Paint Project Respirator. One thing I'm curious about is the bit where it says "for workplace/occupational use only"
Posts
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I think your highlighting works already pretty well and will improve further just with practice. What that model could use is some shadows to give it more depth. For a start I'd go with washes. The metals you can give a wash all over I think (black for the silver, brown for the gold), while with the blue armour I would apply some washes only in the recesses. Depending on what effect you want to achieve a dark green or blue or even purple or red could work, with a black wash in the deeper recesses maybe. THink about where differnt materials overly or parts of the armou go over other parts. The areas can use more shadow to seperate the parts from each other.
I wish I could offer you some tips on improving metallic areas, but I've never been good at that myself and very, very rarely use metallic colours.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Metal base. Brown/black/red washes just applied over and over. Highlight and add rust. Half the time I don't even wait for them to fully dry. Just aimed more towards the hilt as I applied more.
I used a very thinned down nuln oil on the blue just to try to get the recesses and avoid that smeared look nuln oil can bring. I think layering in general is a good next step though.
In the recesses you can go with undiluted washes, I think. And for steel or silver you can go pretty heavy all over with extra layer in the recesses. Reikland fleshade is okay for gold all over but for deeper shades, go darker, either brown or if you want to experiment a bit maybe purple, because it contrasts nicely with the yellow part of the gold.
I've used purple washes before on my orange power armor marines just to get the gold to contrast. A folder gold as opposed to a warmer. Layering washes on a single colour isn't something I've done before and I'll give it a shot in the bear future.
Kind of looking forward to painting these.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Part of me wants to try to do it with contrast paint the other by the book {it's not as scary as I thought} But since they don't make ceramite white anymore and I have to get kislev flesh to finish my tyranids I kind of just want to go to the GW store and ask.
But it might be the same employee that talked me into night lords blue to do my kill team without telling me the highlight {tempted to do that oil wash I showed in the painting thread since the more I look at it the more I feel that might work}
But it's other mental arguments of should I get the bronze/brass as well to finish my necrons and do the metals on my harlequins...
Yay for mental loops
That’s an amazing result. I bought a bunch of contrast paints for some friends and family to get into 40k, but we couldn’t get results like that. How did you do it?
The flash kind of kills the effect a bit.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
-I used the grey seer contrast primer
-I didn't thin it with anything but I did wipe it on a palette to get rid of excess
-After painting it on I used a second brush and tapped it onto areas it was pooling to soak it up
That's all I can think of. Maybe there are other steps I'm not thinking of that could make a difference
Crisis Suits
Firewarrior (shoulder pad not attached yet, have a set ordered from shapeways that aren't ready yet)
I'm an idiot. I somehow completely forgot about them.
I know I am just curious what they replaced it with
Truly the dark gods are capricious and their blessings unpredictable.
Don't worry about it.
Conversely, it's to represent how truly sinister he is.
Arms? I feel like you are confused about this knight.
Jesus Christ he is glopping that stuff on about twice as thick as it should be. All that thick pooling on the flat surfaces is really easily avoidable.
Still I am tempted to get some of the yellows and green to do the masque of the veiled path harlequins though the book makes it look easy...
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I was planning on possibly using hexwraith flame or nighthaunt gloom and glazing it on the legs of the models and around their feet to give a spooky glow.
Has anyone tried this? Has it worked?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Nihilakh oxide over white with a white drybrush is instant easy spooky.
WTF is that about
Edit: I assume that means "it's only graded for workplace/occupational use" but it's worded a bit... oddly.
Nasty stuff
Like "This filters paint, not poison gas"?
Some poison gases