Hey, probably a dumb question, but! To function, the 3D printer needs a computer connected physically? Very close to pulling the trigger on an Ender 3 Pro (the price gap on Amazon is small enough to justify getting the big one ;p)
But I'm planning on setting it up in our spare room, and the PC is down in our living room. We have an old laptop, but it's p.busted and unreliable...
It reads from an SD card, yeah.
Optionally you can also set up OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi and control it over wifi, which is what I do.
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mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
I think technically you *can* connect the ender 5 (not sure about ender 3, but the 5 is basically an ender 3 with a different frame) to a PC via USB and send print jobs to it from there using Cura, but yeah I usually use the SD card
I think technically you *can* connect the ender 5 (not sure about ender 3, but the 5 is basically an ender 3 with a different frame) to a PC via USB and send print jobs to it from there using Cura, but yeah I usually use the SD card
Yeah, that's what OctoPrint does - uses USB as a serial connection to send the same gcode from the file.
In other news, printing stuff. This bridging ended up over expectations, it's printing mid-air without supports. We'll see how it looks when done.
Are you still liking the Kossel, Echo? It's on sale today for $200. I'm thinking about snagging one, but I'm tempted to save up and get a Predator.
I absolutely like it, I haven't really printed with my Ender since I got it (mostly due to the not-quite-flat bed). I have some stuff that won't fit on the round bed I'll fire it up again for though.
Got a glass print bed for my Ender 3. Moved the Z home switch up 3mm. Think I have the leveling about right. Need new clips, because the ones I got with the device isn't really cutting it, but oh well.
Thinking I need to bump up the temperatures. The adhesion is... not really there. Is it possible to do so via the device's menu, or is that a setting I have to do in Cura?
Edit: A google search says people are saying to print the first layer very slowly, at a higher temperature, and then later layers at a higher speed and lower temperature. I don't know how to do that. I guess it's a Cura setting?
Edit2: Setting it to 55 degrees did the trick. Can't see how to do so without Curawesome thinking I've broken some setting (it keeps asking me if I want to undo it) but at least it's working. https://imgur.com/yfjV7mU
Here's the underside. I think the glass build plate was definitely a good buy: https://imgur.com/G7k3uLs
mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
For what it's worth I'm printing PLA at a bed temp of 50C and nozzle temp of 185C on the same glass bed and I'm not having any issues with adhesion.
I'm not really an expert here, I think that's Echo at this point, but it looks like the leveling/z-offset is a bit off - there are visible gaps between the lines. So it's possible that there is too much of a gap and it's cooling enough before it hits the bed that it's not adhering?
I got a glass bed to replace the floppy black mat that the printer came with, since I think I scruffed it up too much trying to remove prints. I re-leveled it a bit. I set the bed temperature to 55. I re-leveled it a bit. I re-leveled it a bit. I re-leveled it a bit. I also cleaned the glass with eyeglass cleaner (rubbing alchohol + water) and windex.
I think I actually have it a touch too close now, but it's as good as I am gonna get.
Of course, now I can't get Cura to load / stop crashing. I think the 4.2.1 update notification is causing it. I have Crewawesome Mod installed so...
KiTA on
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
My thing is all constructed! Aah! Gonna swap the magnet sheet out for the glass bed tomorrow (was waiting on some clips for it) and was wondering - how do I make sure the extruder doesn't scratch it? There's the limit switch thing at the bottom left of the frame, do I just move that up the approximate width of the glass bed?
Also! Should I be applying anything to the glass before a print? I've read about hair spray in some places? Should that be standard? Thanks!
My thing is all constructed! Aah! Gonna swap the magnet sheet out for the glass bed tomorrow (was waiting on some clips for it) and was wondering - how do I make sure the extruder doesn't scratch it? There's the limit switch thing at the bottom left of the frame, do I just move that up the approximate width of the glass bed?
Also! Should I be applying anything to the glass before a print? I've read about hair spray in some places? Should that be standard? Thanks!
I don't use anything on top of the glass. The glass plate I got has a black layer on top. Just remember you need to let it cool down to ~40 or so before removing the prints. The glass is only adhesive at the proper temperature -- once it cools off the print won't adhere to the plastic and it's easy as hell to remove.
I will admit being terrified of scratching or cracking it, and I did have a little bit of a brim stick to it just now -- like 2 mm of infinitesimally thin material. The next print covered it and it came up with that print, however.
My thing is all constructed! Aah! Gonna swap the magnet sheet out for the glass bed tomorrow (was waiting on some clips for it) and was wondering - how do I make sure the extruder doesn't scratch it? There's the limit switch thing at the bottom left of the frame, do I just move that up the approximate width of the glass bed?
Also! Should I be applying anything to the glass before a print? I've read about hair spray in some places? Should that be standard? Thanks!
I don't use anything on top of the glass. The glass plate I got has a black layer on top. Just remember you need to let it cool down to ~40 or so before removing the prints. The glass is only adhesive at the proper temperature -- once it cools off the print won't adhere to the plastic and it's easy as hell to remove.
I will admit being terrified of scratching or cracking it, and I did have a little bit of a brim stick to it just now -- like 2 mm of infinitesimally thin material. The next print covered it and it came up with that print, however.
Some of the mechanical guys use a 3D printer at work (I think it's a ultimaker 3), and they also found that they couldn't keep the prints/plate hot enough unless they covered the opening in the front with insulation. They just cut some of the stiff building insulation from home depot and made a make shift front door. But we were also doing HIPS printing material instead of PLA or whatever you guys are using.
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
...first problem! Hah. So what went wrong with the top surface here?
Edit: fixed link? Had to start using Flickr cause Imgur borked, and I dunno how to link pics. ;P
The picture's not in super great focus, but it looks like your printer ran out of filament mid-print, or was unable to keep pushing it through? Not sure...
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
...huh! I was gonna say naw, that I still had plenty of filament, but I just checked; it fell off the loop (it's the pla that game with the printer, no spool) and was pulled tight into the extruder. Maybe it did run out at the last layer?
Also, haven't calibrated the extruder yet. Should do that, but it requires connecting a PC to it, and that seems tough!
...huh! I was gonna say naw, that I still had plenty of filament, but I just checked; it fell off the loop (it's the pla that game with the printer, no spool) and was pulled tight into the extruder. Maybe it did run out at the last layer?
Also, haven't calibrated the extruder yet. Should do that, but it requires connecting a PC to it, and that seems tough!
You don't need a PC to do it, supposedly you measure out X MM or CM or something, and use a sharpie marker, and measure it that way to get the numbers. I haven't calibrated mine, which is probably why my prints have string issues.
So my Maker Select V2 is on stock firmware which is apparently lacking runaway temp prevention. But it has no boot loader so the firmware update process involves an Adruino. Apparently it might be possible with OctoPrint. Really don't want to end up bricking this thing.
First I tried printing some stabilizer parts. I had 4 pieces on one print to save hassle of multiple prints, but one failed and ruined the batch. Fortunately it failed early in the print. Reset things for one at a time and everything was looking good. Quick trip to pick my kid up and came home to this.
To paraphrase something I read a few days ago: "the first rule of 3d printing: your print will fail immediately after it was last observed"
Lots of relevelling and tweaking temps for a new roll of filament and prints were coming out solid.
With that set I decided to mess around a bit with the OctoLapse plug-in. It's a pretty cool effect even with crappy lighting. https://imgur.com/a/lOGex2O
Oooh, I need to setup something like that. It'd be neat to occasionally capture timelapses. And I have a RPi doing nothing atm.
Also crossposting from the arts and crafts thread:
Had a few setbacks. The insert was supposed to be made of wood which would've been a nice contrast I think. The stripes on the bits that dont have the insert have a bit of red, and my intent was to have cherry in there that has a deeper red color. The wood portion kept breaking (had 4 different ones break on me).
Ended up just trying to 3d print them. I think it looked pretty neat having the solid plastic color with the wood. Still have a bunch more work to do, but I'm really liking how this is turning out.
Decided to finally try 3D printing. Got a Creality CR10S Pro on the way as it seemed to have decent reviews and included some upgrades that many people seem to end up doing anyway on other models.
Any recommendations on places to download a decent Cura profile(s) to use as a starting point? The hundred different parameters to configure are a little overwhelming and most aren't even set in the included defaults to give a hint where to begin.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
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It reads from an SD card, yeah.
Optionally you can also set up OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi and control it over wifi, which is what I do.
Yeah, that's what OctoPrint does - uses USB as a serial connection to send the same gcode from the file.
In other news, printing stuff. This bridging ended up over expectations, it's printing mid-air without supports. We'll see how it looks when done.
I absolutely like it, I haven't really printed with my Ender since I got it (mostly due to the not-quite-flat bed). I have some stuff that won't fit on the round bed I'll fire it up again for though.
https://imgur.com/Lm5uuRO
Thinking I need to bump up the temperatures. The adhesion is... not really there. Is it possible to do so via the device's menu, or is that a setting I have to do in Cura?
Edit: A google search says people are saying to print the first layer very slowly, at a higher temperature, and then later layers at a higher speed and lower temperature. I don't know how to do that. I guess it's a Cura setting?
Edit2: Setting it to 55 degrees did the trick. Can't see how to do so without Curawesome thinking I've broken some setting (it keeps asking me if I want to undo it) but at least it's working. https://imgur.com/yfjV7mU
Here's the underside. I think the glass build plate was definitely a good buy: https://imgur.com/G7k3uLs
https://imgur.com/iydkJdR
Tried with a raft/skirt/whatever they call it
https://imgur.com/NGR4dMh
https://imgur.com/woJixbN
Should I knock the temp up to 60C?
I'm not really an expert here, I think that's Echo at this point, but it looks like the leveling/z-offset is a bit off - there are visible gaps between the lines. So it's possible that there is too much of a gap and it's cooling enough before it hits the bed that it's not adhering?
https://imgur.com/G7k3uLs
That looks like it could go a teeeeeeny little bit further down, yeah.
Not built yet, but I gotta say, this seems like a very fun project (which creates projects...)
Yo Echo where'd ya get that green filament? It seems like the rarest colour! :P
After a couple days of trying to remember/figure it out, I just went ahead and quickly modeleded and printed my own.
Worked out pretty well.
Steam ID: Good Life
I'm gonna need a link for the STL for that jobby on the left holding the paint pot open.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
11 carts + 2 SD cards in a Mario ? block is cool too. Need to give it some paint, and I am hoping to find a version for DS / 3DS carts.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319115
Depends on which revision you're speaking of.
I got a glass bed to replace the floppy black mat that the printer came with, since I think I scruffed it up too much trying to remove prints. I re-leveled it a bit. I set the bed temperature to 55. I re-leveled it a bit. I re-leveled it a bit. I re-leveled it a bit. I also cleaned the glass with eyeglass cleaner (rubbing alchohol + water) and windex.
I think I actually have it a touch too close now, but it's as good as I am gonna get.
Of course, now I can't get Cura to load / stop crashing. I think the 4.2.1 update notification is causing it. I have Crewawesome Mod installed so...
Also! Should I be applying anything to the glass before a print? I've read about hair spray in some places? Should that be standard? Thanks!
Hairspray is one option, so is glue and painters tape. You may not need anything, though, if you get the temps/level etc right.
I don't use anything on top of the glass. The glass plate I got has a black layer on top. Just remember you need to let it cool down to ~40 or so before removing the prints. The glass is only adhesive at the proper temperature -- once it cools off the print won't adhere to the plastic and it's easy as hell to remove.
I will admit being terrified of scratching or cracking it, and I did have a little bit of a brim stick to it just now -- like 2 mm of infinitesimally thin material. The next print covered it and it came up with that print, however.
Some of the mechanical guys use a 3D printer at work (I think it's a ultimaker 3), and they also found that they couldn't keep the prints/plate hot enough unless they covered the opening in the front with insulation. They just cut some of the stiff building insulation from home depot and made a make shift front door. But we were also doing HIPS printing material instead of PLA or whatever you guys are using.
https://flic.kr/p/2gX1oP4
...first problem! Hah. So what went wrong with the top surface here?
Edit: fixed link? Had to start using Flickr cause Imgur borked, and I dunno how to link pics. ;P
403, you must be logged in to view this
The picture's not in super great focus, but it looks like your printer ran out of filament mid-print, or was unable to keep pushing it through? Not sure...
Also, haven't calibrated the extruder yet. Should do that, but it requires connecting a PC to it, and that seems tough!
You don't need a PC to do it, supposedly you measure out X MM or CM or something, and use a sharpie marker, and measure it that way to get the numbers. I haven't calibrated mine, which is probably why my prints have string issues.
But yeah mine fell into the extruder and got pulled tight, too. So I printed one of these just in case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932
A'ight, ran it again with no changes, just made sure the PLA actually made it through this time. Without calibration, this already looks p.good!
(I think that purple streak is from where I marked the spool with permanent marker trying to calibrate the extruder ;P)
Steam ID: Good Life
Not very good print quality in the video though.
In completely unrelated news, a couple of hours before this I decided to order a WhamBam flexplate.
First I tried printing some stabilizer parts. I had 4 pieces on one print to save hassle of multiple prints, but one failed and ruined the batch. Fortunately it failed early in the print. Reset things for one at a time and everything was looking good. Quick trip to pick my kid up and came home to this.
To paraphrase something I read a few days ago: "the first rule of 3d printing: your print will fail immediately after it was last observed"
Lots of relevelling and tweaking temps for a new roll of filament and prints were coming out solid.
With that set I decided to mess around a bit with the OctoLapse plug-in. It's a pretty cool effect even with crappy lighting.
https://imgur.com/a/lOGex2O
Steam ID: Good Life
https://imgur.com/sObqfJ0
I need to make a few of these, so I ended up using it to test out a few the of different options in OctoLapse.
https://imgur.com/a/jRXm0U5
Center Right makes a nice clean video, but added lots of stringing to the print.
https://imgur.com/ncwDk0O
Steam ID: Good Life
Also crossposting from the arts and crafts thread:
Working on files from this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:527736
Any recommendations on places to download a decent Cura profile(s) to use as a starting point? The hundred different parameters to configure are a little overwhelming and most aren't even set in the included defaults to give a hint where to begin.