Lost Salientblink twiceif you'd like me to mercy kill youRegistered Userregular
edited July 2019
Guyyysss
I finally bought that socket set so I could properly take apart the shitty cheap pedals that came stock on my commuter bike, so I could fix The Evil Clicking
Good news! Cleaning and re-greasing the ball bearings and spindle means the rotation is smooooth and the clicking is gone!
Bad news! The cheap shitty plastic cap that seals the end of the pedal once you've reassembled the spindle and crank won't click back into place securely after reassembling.
So I guess I'm ultimately probably going to get new pedals anyway and I'm considering switching to dual-platform so I can practice clipless when I'm feeling brave but still wear street shoes as needed. This leads to two new questions:
1. Anyone have a reasonably priced dual-platform pedal they can recommend? Or just clipless with enough of a flat surface that I don't need to clip in all the time. Given that this bicycle lives outside for 8-10 hours at a go 4-5 days a week, and cost me ~450 USD, I really don't want to spend more than a hundred bucks on new pedals.
2. Looking for recommendations on a shoe that is stylish enough to be a street shoe but also supports SPDs. I love the shit out of my Chromes but their website right now is suggesting that they've stopped selling anything under a men's size 7 (???). I basically want a shoe that can be worn without looking like I've come from the gym or immediately off of my bicycle, and it's gotta be available in a men's 5/women's 7.5-8/European size 38 or 39.
Lost Salient on
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
Shimano M-324s are the standard 'clipless one side, flat the other' choice, and they're $70 or so. (personally I prefer the clip mechanism of Time ATAC, but those don't come in a half-and-half option -- I rode a bike with M-324s for ages and it was just fine except in really muddy/snowy conditions)
As for shoes, for me personally Diadora shoes fit my feet so they're what I go with -- but like any shoes they come in different shapes as well as sizes, so you'd want to try them on somewhere first. "stylish" is going to be harder, though, bike shoes tend to have a lot of velcro and buckles; mountain biking shoes are probably your best bet there.
At this point I'm most worried about trying to find a 26" thru-axle front wheel.
Depending on how ambitious you want to get, you could build one. As long as you can find a suitable hub and a suitable rim (possibly already attached to wheels).
There are plans online somewhere for building a wheelbuilding jig out of plywood.
Don't do this. You need to buy a proper wheel trying stand and master the art of wheel truing, which is rarely needed. You'll spend more on parts and the stand than for a nice 26 wheel.
Eeeh, I bought a £9 e-book and a spoke tool and built a wheel from scratch using a couple zip ties and the forks as the trueing jig. And six years later that wheel hasn't need touching once. Sure a proper stand is going to have some QoL features but it's not all that tough if I can do it.
And then last year I built a second wheel for a different bike and that's been fine too.
I think I worked out at the time that I save about £50 by getting the parts separately rather than getting a built wheel.
I finally bought that socket set so I could properly take apart the shitty cheap pedals that came stock on my commuter bike, so I could fix The Evil Clicking
Good news! Cleaning and re-greasing the ball bearings and spindle means the rotation is smooooth and the clicking is gone!
Bad news! The cheap shitty plastic cap that seals the end of the pedal once you've reassembled the spindle an overviewd crank won't click back into place securely after reassembling.
So I guess I'm ultimately probably going to get new pedals anyway and I'm considering switching to dual-platform so I can practice clipless when I'm feeling brave but still wear street shoes as needed. This leads to two new questions:
1. Anyone have a reasonably priced dual-platform pedal they can recommend? Or just clipless with enough of a flat surface that I don't need to clip in all the time. Given that this bicycle lives outside for 8-10 hours at a go 4-5 days a week, and cost me ~450 USD, I really don't want to spend more than a hundred bucks on new pedals.
2. Looking for recommendations on a shoe that is stylish enough to be a street shoe but also supports SPDs. I love the shit out of my Chromes but their website right now is suggesting that they've stopped selling anything under a men's size 7 (???). I basically want a shoe that can be worn without looking like I've come from the gym or immediately off of my bicycle, and it's gotta be available in a men's 5/women's 7.5-8/European size 38 or 39.
You might consider platform adapters like the Shimano SM-PD22. They're basically plastic platforms that clip in to an SPD pedal. That way you aren't limited to dual purpose pedals.
For "not obviously bike" shoes, there are some skate-style shoes that are available with SPD compatibility and recessed cleats so that you can walk in them normally. Chrome make some, but as you say, the smallest size they do seems to be an EU40.
Five Ten Kestrel Lace and District models might work for you. Five Ten sizing seems to cover your size in the women's versions (same models, different colour options)
DZR do a couple of classic skate style shoes, and their sizing goes down to EU37
661 seem to have stopped making shoes, so their Filters don't seem to be easy to find anymore, but it looks like there are a couple of (UK) places online that claim have old stock in your size - since you're at the extreme end of the range of sizes they were made in
Shimano also make a couple of reasonably street-looking shoes, particularly the AM and GR series, and their sizing seems to start at EU33
0
Lost Salientblink twiceif you'd like me to mercy kill youRegistered Userregular
Thanks japan! The Five Tens I'd seen in the past were their more athletic shoe lines but the District is pretty much what I'm looking for.
It's kinda wild to me how hard it is to find a cycling shoe with the look I want in my size. o.O This happened to me recently with new hiking shoes, too. I can't decide if it's just that I want a particular style and no other people with small feet do, or what.
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
When I started typing that post I thought there were loads of such shoes about, but actually there are fewer now than I remember
I think most of the big brands have got less self-conscious about making SPD shoes that are obviously bike shoes, plus there is a particular "look" that has developed among the DH/Freeride crowd that used to cleave quite strongly to a kind of urban/skate/bmx aesthetic
Also some companies have just stopped making shoes, which I feel like is probably because they weren't very good at it and the market has moved on - for instance Vans used to make a Rob Warner (a rider who famously hated clips pedals, and never used them) signature SPD shoes but they were dreadful
0
Lost Salientblink twiceif you'd like me to mercy kill youRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
I essentially would like to ride a fair amount and then have a coffee or a beer without looking like HELLO IT IS ME AND MY BICYCLE AND OUR GANG OF FELLOW BICYCLISTS, HEAR US BY OUR CLIP-CLOP but I realize that's a whole... scene... of its own
It is just not my scene
E: at least partially because I don't have any bicycle gang members, I am a gang of one
One and a half if you count my yearly trip with my BFF
Lost Salient on
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
It always fascinated me that they chose to put the male side of the pedal attachment on the shoes instead of the bike making the shoes useless as shoes. Is there any reason it couldn't be reversed?
It always fascinated me that they chose to put the male side of the pedal attachment on the shoes instead of the bike making the shoes useless as shoes. Is there any reason it couldn't be reversed?
It depends on the system. Speedplay kind of do this, but it makes for quite a large and chunky shoe attachment.
SPD (the two bolt mountain bike system as opposed to the 3 bolt road system), TIME ATAC, and the Crank Brothers system all use fairly minimal cleats that can be recessed into the sole. Really this is because mountain bikers generally do need to be able to walk normally in the shoes, sometimes for moderate distances.
I'm not sure you could make a shoe-side mechanism as compact as those.
The other issue is mud/grit resistance. Having the recess in the shoe means that having the mechanism still positively engage when packed with debris becomes a trickier design problem
One of the reasons that two bolt SPD remains so popular, even though it isn't that great in terms of float and is fiddly in terms of adjustment and cleat position, is that it still works reliably when caked in crap
EDIT: for example, this is what speedplay zero cleat mechanisms look like. Left is the standard cleat, right is the "walkable" version of the cleat (this is a slightly unfair comparison since speedplay zeroes are a road system - they're designed on the assumption that you're clipped in the whole time using dedicated road shoes, and won't have to walk more than trivial distances)
Compare and contrast a Crank brothers cleat on a Mavic MTB boot:
I just found a 2010 Stinky Deluxe that looks like it's been in mothballs it's whole life, they're asking 700...
I'm going to go look at it Saturday.
Oh dang, there is also a Santa Cruz Bulllit right around the corner from my house...looks like I'm gonna spend some money this weekend one way or another.
1818 to 1890s Bicycle Models (from 1915 documentary) https://youtu.be/WI6lgUlEUFU 3:53 1915 film from France (subtitles are localized to Dutch) showcasing the progression of Victorian bicycles. Worked on footage and added in music for ambiance. The song is "Who" by Henry W. Lange, uploaded by acousticedison. Thanks to EYE
0:08: The Draison bicycle was invented in 1818, so only a century ago, by baron Drais de Saurbron.
0:27: The type of bicycle that lies inbetween type Draison and the bicycle of 1850. An improved steering wheel and a brake have been implemented.
0:46: In 1863 Piero Lallement invented pedals, which worked on the front wheel.
0:58: Around 1868 a third wheel was implemented. These tricycles were heavier, but they were also safer than bicycles.
1:05: Between 1867 en 1870 several improvements were implemented. Bicycles with rubber tires already existed.
1:31: In 1875 a frame was built from hollow pipes, according to the findings of engineer Trieffault.
1:49: People wanted to live according to ''the pulse of the time'', and the front wheel was made as big as possible.
2:10: In 1878 Renard made a front wheel of over 7 feet high. This neckbreaking endeavor made people fed up.
2:55: In the beginning of 1879 Rosseau replaced the big front wheel with a smaller version, and the chain was implemented as driving force.
3:20: The bicycle of today.
In San Diego they had old timey bikes the big wheel up front to ride by the beach. It's awkward but if you know how they are like the ones with the 2.55 area with a chain
they had one with a 4 foot front wheel that is awkward to steer but fun and different from a usual bike
Thus this was my 3rd date with Tabitha where we made fools of ourselves on Victorian style bikes
I recently bought a new bike and there is some vibration in the pedal when I'm on the down swing. Is that normal or should I be worried. I was going to try one more ride before calling the bike shop but figured someone may have some experience with it here.
That sounds a bit odd, I wouldn't expect anything like that from a new bike. Could be slightly loose connection between the pedal spindle and the crank arm which is easy to fix if you have a pedal wrench or a 15mm wrench slim enough to engage the spindle flats. Normal torque for that is about 30 ft lbs (~40Nm), so give it a good gronk. The left pedal is reverse threaded.
If there is play in the pedal spindle bearing, then you definitely need to see the shop, that usually isn't an easy fix.
Debris in your clip-less setup is another possible culprit if you are riding clip-less.
Also have a look and see the rear wheel is seated well in the drop-outs, you can get a little vibration feedback in the pedals if something is out whack and the rear wheel isn't tracking correctly.
That sounds a bit odd, I wouldn't expect anything like that from a new bike. Could be slightly loose connection between the pedal spindle and the crank arm which is easy to fix if you have a pedal wrench or a 15mm wrench slim enough to engage the spindle flats. Normal torque for that is about 30 ft lbs (~40Nm), so give it a good gronk. The left pedal is reverse threaded.
If there is play in the pedal spindle bearing, then you definitely need to see the shop, that usually isn't an easy fix.
Debris in your clip-less setup is another possible culprit if you are riding clip-less.
Also have a look and see the rear wheel is seated well in the drop-outs, you can get a little vibration feedback in the pedals if something is out whack and the rear wheel isn't tracking correctly.
I am not clipless and I'll check some of the other suggestions. Thanks!
I recently decided that after nearly 10 years it was time to get back on the bike. I went out and picked up my very first cyclocross bike with all the fixings! I am absolutely loving it so far but I nearly killed myself biking with pedal clips the first time I went out.
I'll get a clipless (I hate this term, surely you "clip" into them!) bike someday and I think it'll scare the crap out of me. I've never fallen on a bike, at least on a road, and that's only going to increase the risks.
When I first got clipless pedals I literally just rode back and forth on some grass for like half an hour clipping in and out until I was sure I had the motion correct. Didn't help when doing a panicy unclip at a stop signs at all, I still overthought what was going on -- but it did help when I came up on a corner a bit too fast and suddenly found that I was a:not clipped in any more, b:standing on the path, and c:my bike was in a bush:
I'll get a clipless (I hate this term, surely you "clip" into them!) bike someday and I think it'll scare the crap out of me. I've never fallen on a bike, at least on a road, and that's only going to increase the risks.
"Clipless" is relative to traditional toe clips. Their biggest advantage over that arrangement is the ability to get your foot out of them without having to undo a strap with a buckle.
Does anyone actually tighten the strap on traditional-style toeclips? I had an older road bike that came with those, and I never tightened the strap up at all, I just set it to the point where my foot would go in easily and called it a day -- I didn't realise people were ever re-adjusting them when riding.
I remove the straps completely, but they're supposed to be tight around the shoe to add force to the pedal motion on the upwards pull. I can't imagine anyone nowadays wanting that level of performance without just going all-in on clipless.
Does anyone actually tighten the strap on traditional-style toeclips? I had an older road bike that came with those, and I never tightened the strap up at all, I just set it to the point where my foot would go in easily and called it a day -- I didn't realise people were ever re-adjusting them when riding.
Only really people who were also using them with cleats (usually just a thing with a groove that hooked over the back of a traditional metal pedal). Without tightening them that doesn't work to hold your foot in the right fore-and-aft position
It was much more of a thing in racing (and of course, inevitably, among recreational cyclists who bought racing gear) but they died out in the eighties as clipless designs became available
You still see some track riders using them, but obviously they have someone there to prop them up
0
Descendant XSkyrim is my god now.Outpost 31Registered Userregular
I’ve been riding my bike to work for the past four years or so and every now and then I get the urge to check out new stuff, so yesterday I went to the bike shop.
Big mistake.
Now I desperately need to buy either a Cannondale Bad Boy 1 or a Marin Fairfax SC 4.
Garry: I know you gentlemen have been through a lot, but when you find the time I'd rather not spend the rest of the winter TIED TO THIS FUCKING COUCH!
I’ve been riding my bike to work for the past four years or so and every now and then I get the urge to check out new stuff, so yesterday I went to the bike shop.
Big mistake.
Now I desperately need to buy either a Cannondale Bad Boy 1 or a Marin Fairfax SC 4.
So I've been thinking for a long time about getting a road bike, I currently have a very entry level hybrid that I used to use for light commuting, mild trail riding, and some 15-20 mile trips on paved bike trails, and now I use my e-bike to commute to work a couple times a week. As summer winds down I'd sure like to start doing more un-assisted bike riding, and maybe I'm assuming too much of an improvement with a proper road bike, but I'm tempted by having a lighter, trimmer bike with drop bars etc.
The REI labor day sale is going on and it's mostly either too rich for my blood or a little too low end for me to think it's a step up from my hybrid, but their Co-op Cycles brand Ard 1.2 gravel bike for $1,050 seems like a good deal. Does anyone have experience with the brand? A gravel bike isn't exactly what I'm looking for, but I would find it convenient to occasionally ride on dirt, crushed gravel, or the occasional tree root, plus I'm not about to go touring.
A related question: I find that on both of my current bikes, I pretty much always ride in the top two gears on flats, it's just too easy any lower than that. Is that common? I don't think I have terribly strong legs. Or would I need to think about upgrading to a different crankset so that I ride more typically in the middle options that give me access to real power boosts at the top gear?
PSN: Kurahoshi1
0
Descendant XSkyrim is my god now.Outpost 31Registered Userregular
I'm pretty sure that you're supposed to be in the top two gears on flats just to maximize your work/speed ratio.
I'm also pretty sure that I know next to nothing about how this shit works and that someone will be here to provide the correct answer in no time.
Garry: I know you gentlemen have been through a lot, but when you find the time I'd rather not spend the rest of the winter TIED TO THIS FUCKING COUCH!
0
Tynnanseldom correct, never unsureRegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
It’s hard to give a specific answer without knowing the sizing of your chainring and cassette, but being in high gear after getting up to speed in the flats isn’t unreasonable.
Also it matters what cadence you’re using. Are you around 90 rpm when you’re cruising?
Tynnan on
+1
Descendant XSkyrim is my god now.Outpost 31Registered Userregular
edited August 2019
Welp, I’m buying that 2018 Cannondale Bad Boy 1 next week. I took it on a ride today and was immediately impressed by the responsiveness of the belt drive.
Descendant X on
Garry: I know you gentlemen have been through a lot, but when you find the time I'd rather not spend the rest of the winter TIED TO THIS FUCKING COUCH!
+3
Descendant XSkyrim is my god now.Outpost 31Registered Userregular
And now it's mine.
Got it at cost + 5% tax = $1900 MooseBucks because it had been sitting around in the shop for a year and it had been a special order to begin with. It's fantastic. Everything works immediately and effortlessly.
And the lefty fork:
Now I'm looking for a bike trainer to use over the winter. Does anyone have any recommendations for a decent trainer that will work with a solid rear axle and costs about $100 - $200 beaverpelts?
Garry: I know you gentlemen have been through a lot, but when you find the time I'd rather not spend the rest of the winter TIED TO THIS FUCKING COUCH!
Now I'm looking for a bike trainer to use over the winter. Does anyone have any recommendations for a decent trainer that will work with a solid rear axle and costs about $100 - $200 beaverpelts?
I've got one of these Elite units. It's noisy as all heck and the resistance lever doesn't strap on properly but it's cheap and cheerful and does the job of giving you resistance. I know wiggle do international shipping but you might need to see if there's a local stockist. Everyone I asked said that Elite make the best of the cheap turbo trainers
SporkAndrew on
The one about the fucking space hairdresser and the cowboy. He's got a tinfoil pal and a pedal bin
Got it at cost + 5% tax = $1900 MooseBucks because it had been sitting around in the shop for a year and it had been a special order to begin with. It's fantastic. Everything works immediately and effortlessly.
And the lefty fork:
Now I'm looking for a bike trainer to use over the winter. Does anyone have any recommendations for a decent trainer that will work with a solid rear axle and costs about $100 - $200 beaverpelts?
Maybe you can report how the G-One tires fare? My new bike has Spicers on it and I'm not sure how those will hold op once autumn and slushy winter comes around.
Descendant XSkyrim is my god now.Outpost 31Registered Userregular
Yup. It’s in my house when it’s not in use and my workplace has dedicated bike spaces in an underground car park.
Garry: I know you gentlemen have been through a lot, but when you find the time I'd rather not spend the rest of the winter TIED TO THIS FUCKING COUCH!
Posts
I finally bought that socket set so I could properly take apart the shitty cheap pedals that came stock on my commuter bike, so I could fix The Evil Clicking
Good news! Cleaning and re-greasing the ball bearings and spindle means the rotation is smooooth and the clicking is gone!
Bad news! The cheap shitty plastic cap that seals the end of the pedal once you've reassembled the spindle and crank won't click back into place securely after reassembling.
So I guess I'm ultimately probably going to get new pedals anyway and I'm considering switching to dual-platform so I can practice clipless when I'm feeling brave but still wear street shoes as needed. This leads to two new questions:
1. Anyone have a reasonably priced dual-platform pedal they can recommend? Or just clipless with enough of a flat surface that I don't need to clip in all the time. Given that this bicycle lives outside for 8-10 hours at a go 4-5 days a week, and cost me ~450 USD, I really don't want to spend more than a hundred bucks on new pedals.
2. Looking for recommendations on a shoe that is stylish enough to be a street shoe but also supports SPDs. I love the shit out of my Chromes but their website right now is suggesting that they've stopped selling anything under a men's size 7 (???). I basically want a shoe that can be worn without looking like I've come from the gym or immediately off of my bicycle, and it's gotta be available in a men's 5/women's 7.5-8/European size 38 or 39.
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
As for shoes, for me personally Diadora shoes fit my feet so they're what I go with -- but like any shoes they come in different shapes as well as sizes, so you'd want to try them on somewhere first. "stylish" is going to be harder, though, bike shoes tend to have a lot of velcro and buckles; mountain biking shoes are probably your best bet there.
PSN: Robo_Wizard1
The guy says the fork is messed up but it feels all right to me, if just a little soft.
Eeeh, I bought a £9 e-book and a spoke tool and built a wheel from scratch using a couple zip ties and the forks as the trueing jig. And six years later that wheel hasn't need touching once. Sure a proper stand is going to have some QoL features but it's not all that tough if I can do it.
And then last year I built a second wheel for a different bike and that's been fine too.
I think I worked out at the time that I save about £50 by getting the parts separately rather than getting a built wheel.
You might consider platform adapters like the Shimano SM-PD22. They're basically plastic platforms that clip in to an SPD pedal. That way you aren't limited to dual purpose pedals.
For "not obviously bike" shoes, there are some skate-style shoes that are available with SPD compatibility and recessed cleats so that you can walk in them normally. Chrome make some, but as you say, the smallest size they do seems to be an EU40.
Five Ten Kestrel Lace and District models might work for you. Five Ten sizing seems to cover your size in the women's versions (same models, different colour options)
DZR do a couple of classic skate style shoes, and their sizing goes down to EU37
661 seem to have stopped making shoes, so their Filters don't seem to be easy to find anymore, but it looks like there are a couple of (UK) places online that claim have old stock in your size - since you're at the extreme end of the range of sizes they were made in
Shimano also make a couple of reasonably street-looking shoes, particularly the AM and GR series, and their sizing seems to start at EU33
It's kinda wild to me how hard it is to find a cycling shoe with the look I want in my size. o.O This happened to me recently with new hiking shoes, too. I can't decide if it's just that I want a particular style and no other people with small feet do, or what.
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
I think most of the big brands have got less self-conscious about making SPD shoes that are obviously bike shoes, plus there is a particular "look" that has developed among the DH/Freeride crowd that used to cleave quite strongly to a kind of urban/skate/bmx aesthetic
Also some companies have just stopped making shoes, which I feel like is probably because they weren't very good at it and the market has moved on - for instance Vans used to make a Rob Warner (a rider who famously hated clips pedals, and never used them) signature SPD shoes but they were dreadful
It is just not my scene
E: at least partially because I don't have any bicycle gang members, I am a gang of one
One and a half if you count my yearly trip with my BFF
"Sandra has a good solid anti-murderer vibe. My skin felt very secure and sufficiently attached to my body when I met her. Also my organs." HAIL SATAN
It depends on the system. Speedplay kind of do this, but it makes for quite a large and chunky shoe attachment.
SPD (the two bolt mountain bike system as opposed to the 3 bolt road system), TIME ATAC, and the Crank Brothers system all use fairly minimal cleats that can be recessed into the sole. Really this is because mountain bikers generally do need to be able to walk normally in the shoes, sometimes for moderate distances.
I'm not sure you could make a shoe-side mechanism as compact as those.
The other issue is mud/grit resistance. Having the recess in the shoe means that having the mechanism still positively engage when packed with debris becomes a trickier design problem
One of the reasons that two bolt SPD remains so popular, even though it isn't that great in terms of float and is fiddly in terms of adjustment and cleat position, is that it still works reliably when caked in crap
EDIT: for example, this is what speedplay zero cleat mechanisms look like. Left is the standard cleat, right is the "walkable" version of the cleat (this is a slightly unfair comparison since speedplay zeroes are a road system - they're designed on the assumption that you're clipped in the whole time using dedicated road shoes, and won't have to walk more than trivial distances)
Compare and contrast a Crank brothers cleat on a Mavic MTB boot:
I'm going to go look at it Saturday.
Oh dang, there is also a Santa Cruz Bulllit right around the corner from my house...looks like I'm gonna spend some money this weekend one way or another.
3:53
1915 film from France (subtitles are localized to Dutch) showcasing the progression of Victorian bicycles. Worked on footage and added in music for ambiance. The song is "Who" by Henry W. Lange, uploaded by acousticedison. Thanks to EYE
0:08: The Draison bicycle was invented in 1818, so only a century ago, by baron Drais de Saurbron.
0:27: The type of bicycle that lies inbetween type Draison and the bicycle of 1850. An improved steering wheel and a brake have been implemented.
0:46: In 1863 Piero Lallement invented pedals, which worked on the front wheel.
0:58: Around 1868 a third wheel was implemented. These tricycles were heavier, but they were also safer than bicycles.
1:05: Between 1867 en 1870 several improvements were implemented. Bicycles with rubber tires already existed.
1:31: In 1875 a frame was built from hollow pipes, according to the findings of engineer Trieffault.
1:49: People wanted to live according to ''the pulse of the time'', and the front wheel was made as big as possible.
2:10: In 1878 Renard made a front wheel of over 7 feet high. This neckbreaking endeavor made people fed up.
2:55: In the beginning of 1879 Rosseau replaced the big front wheel with a smaller version, and the chain was implemented as driving force.
3:20: The bicycle of today.
This will be here until I receive an apology or Weedlordvegeta get any consequences for being a bully
they had one with a 4 foot front wheel that is awkward to steer but fun and different from a usual bike
Thus this was my 3rd date with Tabitha where we made fools of ourselves on Victorian style bikes
https://www.utrecht.nl/city-of-utrecht/mobility/cycling/bicycle-parking/bicycle-parking-stationsplein/
If there is play in the pedal spindle bearing, then you definitely need to see the shop, that usually isn't an easy fix.
Debris in your clip-less setup is another possible culprit if you are riding clip-less.
Also have a look and see the rear wheel is seated well in the drop-outs, you can get a little vibration feedback in the pedals if something is out whack and the rear wheel isn't tracking correctly.
I am not clipless and I'll check some of the other suggestions. Thanks!
I recently decided that after nearly 10 years it was time to get back on the bike. I went out and picked up my very first cyclocross bike with all the fixings! I am absolutely loving it so far but I nearly killed myself biking with pedal clips the first time I went out.
"Clipless" is relative to traditional toe clips. Their biggest advantage over that arrangement is the ability to get your foot out of them without having to undo a strap with a buckle.
Only really people who were also using them with cleats (usually just a thing with a groove that hooked over the back of a traditional metal pedal). Without tightening them that doesn't work to hold your foot in the right fore-and-aft position
It was much more of a thing in racing (and of course, inevitably, among recreational cyclists who bought racing gear) but they died out in the eighties as clipless designs became available
You still see some track riders using them, but obviously they have someone there to prop them up
Big mistake.
Now I desperately need to buy either a Cannondale Bad Boy 1 or a Marin Fairfax SC 4.
That is a sexy bike, wow.
The REI labor day sale is going on and it's mostly either too rich for my blood or a little too low end for me to think it's a step up from my hybrid, but their Co-op Cycles brand Ard 1.2 gravel bike for $1,050 seems like a good deal. Does anyone have experience with the brand? A gravel bike isn't exactly what I'm looking for, but I would find it convenient to occasionally ride on dirt, crushed gravel, or the occasional tree root, plus I'm not about to go touring.
A related question: I find that on both of my current bikes, I pretty much always ride in the top two gears on flats, it's just too easy any lower than that. Is that common? I don't think I have terribly strong legs. Or would I need to think about upgrading to a different crankset so that I ride more typically in the middle options that give me access to real power boosts at the top gear?
I'm also pretty sure that I know next to nothing about how this shit works and that someone will be here to provide the correct answer in no time.
Also it matters what cadence you’re using. Are you around 90 rpm when you’re cruising?
Got it at cost + 5% tax = $1900 MooseBucks because it had been sitting around in the shop for a year and it had been a special order to begin with. It's fantastic. Everything works immediately and effortlessly.
And the lefty fork:
Now I'm looking for a bike trainer to use over the winter. Does anyone have any recommendations for a decent trainer that will work with a solid rear axle and costs about $100 - $200 beaverpelts?
I've got one of these Elite units. It's noisy as all heck and the resistance lever doesn't strap on properly but it's cheap and cheerful and does the job of giving you resistance. I know wiggle do international shipping but you might need to see if there's a local stockist. Everyone I asked said that Elite make the best of the cheap turbo trainers
Maybe you can report how the G-One tires fare? My new bike has Spicers on it and I'm not sure how those will hold op once autumn and slushy winter comes around.
NEW YORK FAHGETTABOUDIT CHAIN 1415
https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/products/product-information/current-key/999492.html#