That seems like it would be a lot of greenstuff if you're going all GS.
I think you'd want to start with a wire armature since it looks like a pretty big project (for a mini). The armature will provide support until your sculpting material dries enough to support itself. Think big paper clips, maybe a section of coat hanger bent into the right shape (needle nose pliers are your friends here), maybe a short section of 1/4 inch copper tubing if it's going to be really big. You might leave some of the armature exposed at the top end, and you could essentially use that to pin the giant torso into place.
A thick layer of Fimo or Sculpey modeling clay to bulk out the armature and get a rough sculpt, then bake it to harden it up. Much cheaper than GS, and we're not looking for the details just yet.
After that, a thin layer of green stuff for the fine surface details, the scales on the back and belly and whatnot.
Take alu foil and create the rough shape. Make it a lot thinner than the final version. Use milliput and cover the foil. Allow time to cure. Then you can use GS or milliput to make scales or other details if you like.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
+1
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Take alu foil and create the rough shape. Make it a lot thinner than the final version. Use milliput and cover the foil. Allow time to cure. Then you can use GS or milliput to make scales or other details if you like.
All of this. You can also substitute Super Sculpey for both milliput and green stuff in this recipe if you like but still do the two separate layers thing. Also, art shops sell aluminium armature wire if you find the foil isn’t holding its own weight.
Take alu foil and create the rough shape. Make it a lot thinner than the final version. Use milliput and cover the foil. Allow time to cure. Then you can use GS or milliput to make scales or other details if you like.
All of this. You can also substitute Super Sculpey for both milliput and green stuff in this recipe if you like but still do the two separate layers thing. Also, art shops sell aluminium armature wire if you find the foil isn’t holding its own weight.
Indeed.
Also: Milliput dries very solid, especially for big things like this. But, until it cures, it can slump a bit. So, if you do not use an armature, you might need to lean the piece against something to prevent it fram falling over until it has cured.
(Milliput can be sanded very easily, unlike GS (use a mask). I've not used sculpey or fimo, so I can't commend on them.)
Sic transit gloria mundi.
0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Sculpey is rock hard when fired and can be sanded, drilled etc. Last time I tried Fimo, the ‘fired’ condition still had flex so carving and sanding were dodgy at best.
If it helps, Citadel’s in-house sculptors use Sculpey and Green Stuff over armatures. Or they did until they went all-digital anyway.
I wanna make a mini of this guy since I haven't found one online I like enough. I have a Reaper miniatures fire giant top half I could use...
...but I haven't found a snake body to scale with it yet. Any ideas?
What material should I use?
The most I've modded a figure so far is to cut-off fingers and replace them with tentacles, btw.
edit: Tentacles are just reverse snakes with texture on them. Its basically what you want to do just at a different scale with a bit more work.
Greenstuff would work really well for this. If you've worked with it a bit before, making a detailed snake body with scales probably wouldnt be that hard and theres probably some good youtube tutorials for directly making one. I've been watching greenstuff sculpting vids and theres a ton of tricks and cheats to make stuff look great.
I know about the size of that reaper model you are using, you could get away with going greenstuff only, but an armature for the basic structure would be best(I use floral wire, you can get it at hobby shop/walmart in the fake flowers/vase section), and a filler like sculpey as someone else mentioned, then do green stuff for the actual top layer detail. A cheap set of silicone tools for the greenstuff can be had on amazon for like 6-7$ last time I checked.
Also that mini is really fun to convert:
DiannaoChong on
+2
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Does anyone have a go to for buying sand for basing?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
A different, worse colour
Whatever you like. I got some aquarium sand a long while back that wasn't too uniform in texture, and works very well for model basing, since all the grains aren't uniform. Others are very fine and very uniform, which I don't recommend for rough ground.
Does anyone have a go to for buying sand for basing?
Personally, I looked in the model train section of my local hobby store about a decade ago. I've barely made a dent in the bag I got. It was way cheaper than GW or any other TT branded basing material, but virtually indistinguishable after a coat of glue and some dry-brushing.
see317 on
+3
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The video I was looking at used some larger grain sand and then fine grain to fill in gaps before painting.
I wanna go for something tropical so I figured fine grain all over would best but I'm not sure.
I really wish the amazon descriptions were better about the sand.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I got a mix of fine sand, larger pebbles and some very fine dust like material, mixed it with watered down glue and a little bit of flock, and made a basing slurry. Works well for all my needs.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I could only find 50 pound bags of sand at the home depot near me.
For basing sand I literally took a tupperware with me when taking kiddo to a public play park with a giant sand pit. Sieved through a tea strainer when I got home to remove any bigger debris and sorted.
Finally had enough free time off in a row that I can dedicate enough time to paint up my Marneus Calgar I got a month ago for my birthday..
This will make the third version of Optimus Prime in my Transformer-Marines.
Not sure what colour to paint the cloak though.
Khorne Red or Kantor Blue. (so basically a darker version of his bodies main colours; Mephiston Red and Caledor Sky ) or a cream colour so the cloak stands out a little from the red and blue?
GaryO on
+1
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Dark green with bright green circuit-like patterns leading to a stencilled Matrix of Leadership done in red and blue.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So if I wanted to paint a more coppery/Mediterranean skin tone, what sort of colors would be good to mix with a base of either a darker brown or a fair skin? When it comes to skin tones I tend not to always have a good feel for how to get the effect I'm after.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So if I wanted to paint a more coppery/Mediterranean skin tone, what sort of colors would be good to mix with a base of either a darker brown or a fair skin? When it comes to skin tones I tend not to always have a good feel for how to get the effect I'm after.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
More specifically I'm asking about what colors mix well to get the same kind of effect you would get with something like Bugman's glow or similar tanned skin bases, as I do not have Bugman's glow or similar tan/mid-range skin tone paints.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
More specifically I'm asking about what colors mix well to get the same kind of effect you would get with something like Bugman's glow or similar tanned skin bases, as I do not have Bugman's glow or similar tan/mid-range skin tone paints.
Because of the overwhelming sense of doom because of my horrible summer I have been painting in bits and fits
But I wanted to try something different hand primering and such
Part of me thought generic rock would have been neat but then I changed my mind and went for a marble but it's now I just don't know what I want to do the veins in?
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
+1
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So, what colors tend to pair/contrast well with orange? I'm going to be painting my splintered fang, and my general idea is to give them copper armor and weapons, and black leather. Aside from that, I'm still not sure what I want to do for the rest of their scheme. I'm thinking a mix of orange and black for their plumes, a mix of orange, black, and purple with the snakes, but I don't know what colors would work well to represent the venom/poison on their weapons, and what secondary metal to use for detail stuff.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So, what colors tend to pair/contrast well with orange? I'm going to be painting my splintered fang, and my general idea is to give them copper armor and weapons, and black leather. Aside from that, I'm still not sure what I want to do for the rest of their scheme. I'm thinking a mix of orange and black for their plumes, a mix of orange, black, and purple with the snakes, but I don't know what colors would work well to represent the venom/poison on their weapons, and what secondary metal to use for detail stuff.
Orange and blue are complementary colors. They get used in everything though design wise(see this websites homepage), including every movie poster for the last ~20 years. But do what you think looks good.
+2
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I remembered there is a hobby store about 20 miles away that does model trains and such so I was able to get the water effect stuff there. I didn't really comprehend how small the bases were gonna be compared to the aquarium plants I bought. The bases I'm working with are 5 25mm, 3 28mm, and 1 40mm. I can still make it work but I wont be able to put as many plants as I had wanted on each base.
So I already started putting some paint on the base, gonna finish that up, let it completely dry and them put some PVA glue and sand on, will that be a good time to add the plants? The last video I wanted for adding something like this was using a hot glue but I was hoping I could get away with stuffing the stems into the sand with PVA glue.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Could not get away with using pva glue with the aquarium plants. Gonna use a hot glue gun.
Does it matter if I water down the pva glue with water or not with adding sand?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Super Glue! the plastic they make the plants with only works with super glue!
Oh, I'll use super glue this weekend. I also didn't glue them in first like a fool.
I've also suddenly got the urge to put in some serious paint work on my Necrons which means clear resin casting for the pieces. I still have the bookmarks for the material to cast with but what do I cast it in? I can't figure out what is best. Something I could reuse preferably.
Also, should I tint the material with acrylic paint or ink?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Tried my hand out on a Blood Angels Terminator. Playing with light and trying to do gold NMM.
I don't think my gold is warm enough but I love the red. My pictures are too bright. I need to get my lighting for pictures figured out. You can't see the jewels at all because of how bright it is.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
Posts
What material should I use?
The most I've modded a figure so far is to cut-off fingers and replace them with tentacles, btw.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
That seems like it would be a lot of greenstuff if you're going all GS.
I think you'd want to start with a wire armature since it looks like a pretty big project (for a mini). The armature will provide support until your sculpting material dries enough to support itself. Think big paper clips, maybe a section of coat hanger bent into the right shape (needle nose pliers are your friends here), maybe a short section of 1/4 inch copper tubing if it's going to be really big. You might leave some of the armature exposed at the top end, and you could essentially use that to pin the giant torso into place.
A thick layer of Fimo or Sculpey modeling clay to bulk out the armature and get a rough sculpt, then bake it to harden it up. Much cheaper than GS, and we're not looking for the details just yet.
After that, a thin layer of green stuff for the fine surface details, the scales on the back and belly and whatnot.
All of this. You can also substitute Super Sculpey for both milliput and green stuff in this recipe if you like but still do the two separate layers thing. Also, art shops sell aluminium armature wire if you find the foil isn’t holding its own weight.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Indeed.
Also: Milliput dries very solid, especially for big things like this. But, until it cures, it can slump a bit. So, if you do not use an armature, you might need to lean the piece against something to prevent it fram falling over until it has cured.
(Milliput can be sanded very easily, unlike GS (use a mask). I've not used sculpey or fimo, so I can't commend on them.)
If it helps, Citadel’s in-house sculptors use Sculpey and Green Stuff over armatures. Or they did until they went all-digital anyway.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
edit: Tentacles are just reverse snakes with texture on them. Its basically what you want to do just at a different scale with a bit more work.
Greenstuff would work really well for this. If you've worked with it a bit before, making a detailed snake body with scales probably wouldnt be that hard and theres probably some good youtube tutorials for directly making one. I've been watching greenstuff sculpting vids and theres a ton of tricks and cheats to make stuff look great.
I know about the size of that reaper model you are using, you could get away with going greenstuff only, but an armature for the basic structure would be best(I use floral wire, you can get it at hobby shop/walmart in the fake flowers/vase section), and a filler like sculpey as someone else mentioned, then do green stuff for the actual top layer detail. A cheap set of silicone tools for the greenstuff can be had on amazon for like 6-7$ last time I checked.
Also that mini is really fun to convert:
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Personally, I looked in the model train section of my local hobby store about a decade ago. I've barely made a dent in the bag I got. It was way cheaper than GW or any other TT branded basing material, but virtually indistinguishable after a coat of glue and some dry-brushing.
I wanna go for something tropical so I figured fine grain all over would best but I'm not sure.
I really wish the amazon descriptions were better about the sand.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Go to home despot or any of the home redo places as they have different grades of sand and aggregate
Just gonna grab some aquaria sand.
Carib Sea ACS05820 Super Natural Moonlight Sand for Aquarium, 5-Pound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDYZQ8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NSDCDb4BSHM0Q
I feel weirdly stressed about painting these models. I really wish I knew why. Maybe it is because I'm doing sub assembly.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
This will make the third version of Optimus Prime in my Transformer-Marines.
Not sure what colour to paint the cloak though.
Khorne Red or Kantor Blue. (so basically a darker version of his bodies main colours; Mephiston Red and Caledor Sky ) or a cream colour so the cloak stands out a little from the red and blue?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuPSbjAjhKQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQOhGm1uA2s
It's a vast look on youtube
Then get the chatty girl
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-F-Ulu9KuY
But I wanted to try something different hand primering and such
Part of me thought generic rock would have been neat but then I changed my mind and went for a marble but it's now I just don't know what I want to do the veins in?
I dont think my painting skills are good enough to pull that off!
Slapped on pretty quick but quite happy with the result.
Is there a good and easy alternative to get?
https://youtu.be/6xI1ISN2yAw
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Amazon has them all!
And Michael's/JoAnns has similar things also
Orange and blue are complementary colors. They get used in everything though design wise(see this websites homepage), including every movie poster for the last ~20 years. But do what you think looks good.
So I already started putting some paint on the base, gonna finish that up, let it completely dry and them put some PVA glue and sand on, will that be a good time to add the plants? The last video I wanted for adding something like this was using a hot glue but I was hoping I could get away with stuffing the stems into the sand with PVA glue.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Does it matter if I water down the pva glue with water or not with adding sand?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Oh, I'll use super glue this weekend. I also didn't glue them in first like a fool.
I've also suddenly got the urge to put in some serious paint work on my Necrons which means clear resin casting for the pieces. I still have the bookmarks for the material to cast with but what do I cast it in? I can't figure out what is best. Something I could reuse preferably.
Also, should I tint the material with acrylic paint or ink?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I don't think my gold is warm enough but I love the red. My pictures are too bright. I need to get my lighting for pictures figured out. You can't see the jewels at all because of how bright it is.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.