I cloned my 500 ssd to the new m.2 drive but now I have like 488gb of unallocated space. I can't choose to extend the c partition - can't recall how to solve this one...
edit: I got it, had to delete that pesky recovery image between them.
Just as my ADATA M2 SSD arrives, my Crucial SSD dies.
This is a disturbing pattern. Before I take the computer to the guy who sold me the Crucial, it it possible I have a bad PSU? It was 850W. I suppose I could go up to 900W to match my UPS.
Just as my ADATA M2 SSD arrives, my Crucial SSD dies.
This is a disturbing pattern. Before I take the computer to the guy who sold me the Crucial, it it possible I have a bad PSU? It was 850W. I suppose I could go up to 900W to match my UPS.
Well, the mobo's manual doesn't have any beep codes (it's a G1.Sniper B5-CF, I found the manual online). And more weirdly, the beeping only seems to happen in the morning when I first turn on the computer. When I restart and such, or turn it off and on again, it just does the "all okay" quick beep.
Now I wonder if it might be something about the power. See, every night, after turning everything off, I also turn off the multi-socket thing the computer and monitor are plugged to, because, well, I can hear the very soft whine of electric transformers and I want to sleep (it's the same reason I generally leave my phone charging in the living room instead of my room, I can hear the charger and it gets a touch maddening). And "it has spent eight hours unplugged" is about the only difference I can think between turning things off and on again inside a minute and in the morning.
Also, this morning it shifted from one long one short to two long beeps. Odd. Think I'll wait to see what it beeps tomorrow.
That sounds to me like the Mobo battery may be dying.
If you can still here coil whine when the PC is shut down, it's either a bad/dying power strip or something in the PSU.
Still, the fact you fully shut things down at night and the fact the beep code changed tells me the first warning was for low battery and the second is for dying battery. I could be 100% wrong but you've made no other changes.
Well, the mobo's manual doesn't have any beep codes (it's a G1.Sniper B5-CF, I found the manual online). And more weirdly, the beeping only seems to happen in the morning when I first turn on the computer. When I restart and such, or turn it off and on again, it just does the "all okay" quick beep.
Now I wonder if it might be something about the power. See, every night, after turning everything off, I also turn off the multi-socket thing the computer and monitor are plugged to, because, well, I can hear the very soft whine of electric transformers and I want to sleep (it's the same reason I generally leave my phone charging in the living room instead of my room, I can hear the charger and it gets a touch maddening). And "it has spent eight hours unplugged" is about the only difference I can think between turning things off and on again inside a minute and in the morning.
Also, this morning it shifted from one long one short to two long beeps. Odd. Think I'll wait to see what it beeps tomorrow.
Not to be silly, but it's not saying anything on the screen like "Previous AC Power Loss" or what have you? Because the small beep could be the standard "I'm done with POST" beep and the longer beep could be a "Read what's on the screen, silly goose" beep.
You can turn off quick boot or turn on "always stop on all errors" in BIOS and it'll wait for you to hit F1 to get past those.
I cloned my 500 ssd to the new m.2 drive but now I have like 488gb of unallocated space. I can't choose to extend the c partition - can't recall how to solve this one...
edit: I got it, had to delete that pesky recovery image between them.
You don't want to delete the recovery image if you can avoid it. Being able to do a repair or restore install is very nice.
Instead, use GParted to move the recovery image tot he end of the drive and then extend the C drive?
So I was having the blue screen issues with 5700 XT and replaced it with an RTX 2060 Super. Got that installed and had some occasional issues where my system would suddenly drop video out and crash. The system locks up and crashes to black, the case fans stay on but I can't recover without a hard reboot. I thought it was probably a PSU issue, my unit was only 550W and more importantly it only had a single PCI power cable. I've read that even the 2060 can be finicky with a single cable, so I went out and got a 750W with better cabling and now the 8-pin and 6-pin connectors are on their own cables.
That didn't solve the random crash issue either. I can't really pin down what causes it. If I try to run any 3DMark benchmark it crashes immediately, if I play Magic: the Gathering Arena sometimes I can play for hours without a crash, sometimes it crashes 15 minutes into the session. I played Control all morning with settings cranked as high as the 2060 Super can manage and it ran without a hitch.
It's annoying though because I would like to have a fully stable system again. I used DDU to uninstall my old graphics drivers but maybe I need to do a fresh install of Windows again to be sure I got all of the Radeon drivers out?
Also thinking maybe it's related to the BIOS update issues I had when moving from Ryzen 2 to Ryzen 3 on a B450 mobo? Maybe going to an X570 board would help? I do occasionally hear the device disconnected/USB device unplugged ding from Windows when I've not removed anything. I wonder if there's something in the BIOS not playing nice?
I cloned my 500 ssd to the new m.2 drive but now I have like 488gb of unallocated space. I can't choose to extend the c partition - can't recall how to solve this one...
edit: I got it, had to delete that pesky recovery image between them.
You don't want to delete the recovery image if you can avoid it. Being able to do a repair or restore install is very nice.
Instead, use GParted to move the recovery image tot he end of the drive and then extend the C drive?
That sounds to me like the Mobo battery may be dying.
If you can still here coil whine when the PC is shut down, it's either a bad/dying power strip or something in the PSU.
Still, the fact you fully shut things down at night and the fact the beep code changed tells me the first warning was for low battery and the second is for dying battery. I could be 100% wrong but you've made no other changes.
Understand that I can hear a lot of coil whine on everything. As mentioned, I have to set my phone to charge elsewhere because otherwise the moment the phone becomes fully charged the whine of the charger becomes intolerable for sleeping. I have painfully sensitive ears, to the point that when I tried to have an AIO liquid cooler (an Enermax Liqmax 2) I had to return it within a week because the whine coming from the pump, even through the sound-dampening of a Fractal R4 case, was driving me insane. So the power strip making noise didn't really register as something that might be bad!
The CMOS battery is a definite possibility that hadn't occured to me, though. It's probably worth replacing just to test it, really.
Not to be silly, but it's not saying anything on the screen like "Previous AC Power Loss" or what have you? Because the small beep could be the standard "I'm done with POST" beep and the longer beep could be a "Read what's on the screen, silly goose" beep.
You can turn off quick boot or turn on "always stop on all errors" in BIOS and it'll wait for you to hit F1 to get past those.
Well, it might have been that before, but now it's two very solid long beeps, the POST "all okay" beep is definitely no longer happening on first boot. When restarting or turning off and on again, though, it beeps the "all okay" no problem.
As for messages, well, I've been trying to find where to turn on the "stop on all errors" thing, because even with fast boot off the computer is already on the Loading Windows logo by the time the monitor gets an image, but I'm not really finding it in the strange bios app that this mobo has.
Well, it might have been that before, but now it's two very solid long beeps, the POST "all okay" beep is definitely no longer happening on first boot. When restarting or turning off and on again, though, it beeps the "all okay" no problem.
As for messages, well, I've been trying to find where to turn on the "stop on all errors" thing, because even with fast boot off the computer is already on the Loading Windows logo by the time the monitor gets an image, but I'm not really finding it in the strange bios app that this mobo has.
Turn off Quick Boot?
0
HardtargetThere Are Four LightsVancouverRegistered Userregular
day 3 of this stupid RGB bullshit being on cause I haven't had to reboot my comptuer for any reason.
I'm down to one last mechanical drive as I've added the m2.nvme and cloned my raptor drive to a 500 ssd. Does anyone have experience with hybrid drives - this firecuda could help me clean up some more?
0
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Unless you're getting SAS drives, those little laptop sized drives are not designed for longevity. You're going to be a lot happier with a smaller, super fast ssd and a mongo 3.5in platter drive.
Just as my ADATA M2 SSD arrives, my Crucial SSD dies.
This is a disturbing pattern. Before I take the computer to the guy who sold me the Crucial, it it possible I have a bad PSU? It was 850W. I suppose I could go up to 900W to match my UPS.
What other components are in there?
The guy who (re)built my PC says he has never seen a Crucial crap out so soon, so he's going to inspect both the SSD and the Corsair 850W power supply, and replace the SSD for free if it really is the problem!
What can I expect to pay (and some suggestions please) for a plain jane PC case that I want to migrate my Dell XPS 8930 into (for better cooling for eventual upgrade from 1070 to 2070).
I don't need flashing lights or any bling, but some USB ports on front/top (and maybe a USB-C port) would be nice, and not super massively large.
What can I expect to pay (and some suggestions please) for a plain jane PC case that I want to migrate my Dell XPS 8930 into (for better cooling for eventual upgrade from 1070 to 2070).
I don't need flashing lights or any bling, but some USB ports on front/top (and maybe a USB-C port) would be nice, and not super massively large.
OTOH, I've found examples of people putting in a 2070 and an extra case fan and it working fine. I don't have a high end i7 so heat shouldn't be too big a deal.
EDIT: Oh, and thanks! Got me looking in the right direction.
I'm down to one last mechanical drive as I've added the m2.nvme and cloned my raptor drive to a 500 ssd. Does anyone have experience with hybrid drives - this firecuda could help me clean up some more?
I have a SSHD. Replaced it once with another SSHD. Think Seagate, but before they called them the Firecuda.
It's not horrible. I think it was causing BSODs (it was the only consistent part) but moving all the files off the 2TB to a new 4TB then formatting the 2TB non-quick seemed to clear it up.
My PC has 4 drives in it. A Samsung EVO 500 boot (Windows, some programs, some games), a 1TB WD Blue 7200 (Windows folders and alt Program Files), a 2TB Seagate SSHD (Literally only Steam, and it's almost full ), and a 4TB WD Blue 5400 RPM (lesbian porn, mostlyimportant downloaded archives data hording).
In any case, yesterday I changed the battery and reseated video card and ram, and good news, the beeping did not happen this morning! I don't know which of the three things did it, but in case it was the battery, thank you @Mugsley because that would not have occured to me.
I am ordering a new PC soon. I'd like some input incase I'm missing something obvious. The research for this is exhaustive/exhausting. Some parts are picked because I am paying for assembly at a store, which means I have to order everything there. Prices are decent there though, and their selection fairly large.
My goals here:
I want a decent gaming machine for 3-4 years, currently 1080p but considering a monitor switch to 1440p/*sync. I don't want to overclock, I don't want to tweak settings if I can help it. I appreciate quietness.
MSI B450-A PRO MAX B450, socket AM4 - Only 1 PCI 16x, but I don't more? I understand MSI is the best "budget" mobo brand at the moment. AMD Ryzen 5 3600 socket AM4 processor - Everyone seems to agree this is the sweetspot Gelid Solutions Rev.4 Tranquillo cpu-cooler - Hadn't heard of this brand, but it landed near the top of 2 tests I read for "budget coolers that outperform stock" GIGABYTE Radeon RX 5700 XT GAMING OC 8G - Another agreed upon sweetspot seems to test as a quiet, idle and load be quiet! Pure Power 11 700W, 700 Watt PSU - Advice here seemed to vary a lot. This seems a well regarded brand, more than enough juice. Corsair 16 GB DDR4-3200 Kit CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16, Vengeance LPX - 3200 seems the max for the mobo Kingston A2000, 1 TB SSD - 1TB should allow me to place 10 big modern games on it before I have to start swapping files.
Seagate BarraCuda, 4 TB HDD. - Big and Cheap, and mostly used to store games I am currently not playing (since my internet is not superfast, offloading downloaded games is faster than redownloading), or games that take no time to load anyway. Corsair Carbide 200R window tower - It's a black case with no frills, which is what I want. be quiet! Pure Wings 2 120mm case fan - The case comes with 2, I understand 3 is optimal (?)
I am ordering a new PC soon. I'd like some input incase I'm missing something obvious. The research for this is exhaustive. Some parts are picked because I am paying for assembly at a store, which means I have to order everything there. Prices are decent there though, and their selection fairly large.
My goals here:
I want a decent gaming machine for 3-4 years, currently 1080p but considering a monitor switch to 1440p/*sync. I don't want to overclock, I don't want to tweak settings if I can help it. I appreciate quietness.
MSI B450-A PRO MAX B450, socket AM4 - Only 1 PCI 16x, but I don't more? I understand MSI is the best "budget" mobo brand at the moment. AMD Ryzen 5 3600 socket AM4 processor - Everyone seems to agree this is the sweetspot Gelid Solutions Rev.4 Tranquillo cpu-cooler - Hadn't heard of this brand, but it landed near the top of 2 tests I read for "budget coolers that outperform stock" GIGABYTE Radeon RX 5700 XT GAMING OC 8G - Another agreed upon sweetspot seems to test as a quiet, idle and load be quiet! Pure Power 11 700W, 700 Watt PSU - Advice here seemed to vary a lot. This seems a well regarded brand, more than enough juice. Corsair 16 GB DDR4-3200 Kit CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16, Vengeance LPX - 3200 seems the max for the mobo Kingston A2000, 1 TB SSD - 1TB should allow me to place 10 big modern games on it before I have to start swapping files.
Seagate BarraCuda, 4 TB HDD. - Big and Cheap, and mostly used to store games I am currently not playing (since my internet is not superfast, offloading downloaded games is faster than redownloading), or games that take no time to load anyway. Corsair Carbide 200R window tower - It's a black case with no frills, which is what I want. be quiet! Pure Wings 2 120mm case fan - The case comes with 2, I understand 3 is optimal (?)
Where is the PC being built and do they offer a website to make choices? Also what is your budget? I think most parts here are solid, the 700w PSU seems like overkill to me though, probably save some cash dropping that down to 550w. I wouldn't think you needed extra fans unless you find the Corsair case fans very loud.
This is all done in the Netherlands, where prices are skyhigh. This list was built on Alternate.nl, which is reputable store both for parts and builder service. I tried to do "what part is reasonable for this - try to find benchmarks/tests -> is the best part available" and usually end up with the
This totals about €1400, which is probably the equivalent of a $1200 build for Americans, price of the parts. That includes a builder Win10. (Which is €110)
I understand that PSUs are optimal if they aren't stretched, and lose capacity over time. Which is why I was looking in the "650-700W" category
Solid build all around there SanderJK. Personally I would probably go with a 2070 Super because of RTX and much more stable drivers and the free copy of Control which highlights raytracing very well but know that would raise the price a bit which might not be acceptable.
Honestly if you're not planning to overclock, the stock cooler will be more than adequate.
You won't need more than one x16 slot unless you plan to SLI (which I don't recommend).
Depending how soon you plan to build this, you may want to look to a Nvidia GPU due to the growing pains AMD is having with their graphics drivers (see previous 3-4 pages of this thread).
They are probably close enough in price you won't see a noticable change in the final, but you can check the following RAM brands: Crucial, G.Skill, Kingston, Micron, Mushkin
agree that 700w is overkill. 550 is more than enough to power that system. the only reason to get a high wattage PSU on that kind of system is if you get a super efficient one that doesn't run the fan below a certain load, which will keep it silent a good chunk of the time.
Thanks for the advice.
I dropped the PSU to 600W, same brand, dropped the extra fan. And pressed the order button.
I was waffling about RTX with the 2070 Super. The price difference was €140. Basically for that feature, since they benchmark quite similar.
But I was already 100 bucks over my target spend.
So I pressed pay.
Tomorrow I'll get the shipping eta narrowed. (They are quite busy at the moment, because of all the new hardware).
Posts
edit: I got it, had to delete that pesky recovery image between them.
This is a disturbing pattern. Before I take the computer to the guy who sold me the Crucial, it it possible I have a bad PSU? It was 850W. I suppose I could go up to 900W to match my UPS.
What other components are in there?
That sounds to me like the Mobo battery may be dying.
If you can still here coil whine when the PC is shut down, it's either a bad/dying power strip or something in the PSU.
Still, the fact you fully shut things down at night and the fact the beep code changed tells me the first warning was for low battery and the second is for dying battery. I could be 100% wrong but you've made no other changes.
Not to be silly, but it's not saying anything on the screen like "Previous AC Power Loss" or what have you? Because the small beep could be the standard "I'm done with POST" beep and the longer beep could be a "Read what's on the screen, silly goose" beep.
You can turn off quick boot or turn on "always stop on all errors" in BIOS and it'll wait for you to hit F1 to get past those.
You don't want to delete the recovery image if you can avoid it. Being able to do a repair or restore install is very nice.
Instead, use GParted to move the recovery image tot he end of the drive and then extend the C drive?
https://www.disk-partition.com/windows-10/windows-10-move-recovery-partition-4348.html
https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/help-extend-volume-blocked-by-recovery-partition-how-to-move-partitions-around.2565001/
Also: Holy balls, the Microsoft forums are worthless. Each and every answer is either an AI bot or someone from Europe reading from a script. Poorly.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/extend-system-drive-but-recovery-partition-is-in/865ff33e-dd9e-48ce-a29d-b08551fbae8a
That didn't solve the random crash issue either. I can't really pin down what causes it. If I try to run any 3DMark benchmark it crashes immediately, if I play Magic: the Gathering Arena sometimes I can play for hours without a crash, sometimes it crashes 15 minutes into the session. I played Control all morning with settings cranked as high as the 2060 Super can manage and it ran without a hitch.
It's annoying though because I would like to have a fully stable system again. I used DDU to uninstall my old graphics drivers but maybe I need to do a fresh install of Windows again to be sure I got all of the Radeon drivers out?
Also thinking maybe it's related to the BIOS update issues I had when moving from Ryzen 2 to Ryzen 3 on a B450 mobo? Maybe going to an X570 board would help? I do occasionally hear the device disconnected/USB device unplugged ding from Windows when I've not removed anything. I wonder if there's something in the BIOS not playing nice?
So long as you have it on a usb drive you don't need the recovery partition, does make life easier for it to be there I guess.
Understand that I can hear a lot of coil whine on everything. As mentioned, I have to set my phone to charge elsewhere because otherwise the moment the phone becomes fully charged the whine of the charger becomes intolerable for sleeping. I have painfully sensitive ears, to the point that when I tried to have an AIO liquid cooler (an Enermax Liqmax 2) I had to return it within a week because the whine coming from the pump, even through the sound-dampening of a Fractal R4 case, was driving me insane. So the power strip making noise didn't really register as something that might be bad!
The CMOS battery is a definite possibility that hadn't occured to me, though. It's probably worth replacing just to test it, really.
Well, it might have been that before, but now it's two very solid long beeps, the POST "all okay" beep is definitely no longer happening on first boot. When restarting or turning off and on again, though, it beeps the "all okay" no problem.
As for messages, well, I've been trying to find where to turn on the "stop on all errors" thing, because even with fast boot off the computer is already on the Loading Windows logo by the time the monitor gets an image, but I'm not really finding it in the strange bios app that this mobo has.
Turn off Quick Boot?
this is my life now I guess
That's one of the first signs of PSU failure
Even just for cheap storage to replace a 3.5 HDD?
What's the point of replacing one mechanical drive with another one that has a tiny SSD bolted to it?
Unless you're getting SAS drives, those little laptop sized drives are not designed for longevity. You're going to be a lot happier with a smaller, super fast ssd and a mongo 3.5in platter drive.
The guy who (re)built my PC says he has never seen a Crucial crap out so soon, so he's going to inspect both the SSD and the Corsair 850W power supply, and replace the SSD for free if it really is the problem!
I don't need flashing lights or any bling, but some USB ports on front/top (and maybe a USB-C port) would be nice, and not super massively large.
Do you want the good news or the bad news?
https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/servicetag/0-MHpsRFc4QWQ1QmQ1TEdEMzZ6dHpZUT090/overview
EDIT:
Looks like the case isn't the thing so much as some of the jumpers/plugs yea: https://www.dell.com/community/XPS-Desktops/XPS-8930-Case-Swap-CPU-Liquid-Cooler-temps-Upgrade-summary/td-p/7284370
OTOH, I've found examples of people putting in a 2070 and an extra case fan and it working fine. I don't have a high end i7 so heat shouldn't be too big a deal.
EDIT: Oh, and thanks! Got me looking in the right direction.
I have a SSHD. Replaced it once with another SSHD. Think Seagate, but before they called them the Firecuda.
It's not horrible. I think it was causing BSODs (it was the only consistent part) but moving all the files off the 2TB to a new 4TB then formatting the 2TB non-quick seemed to clear it up.
My PC has 4 drives in it. A Samsung EVO 500 boot (Windows, some programs, some games), a 1TB WD Blue 7200 (Windows folders and alt Program Files), a 2TB Seagate SSHD (Literally only Steam, and it's almost full
I did explicitly say it's already turned off!
In any case, yesterday I changed the battery and reseated video card and ram, and good news, the beeping did not happen this morning! I don't know which of the three things did it, but in case it was the battery, thank you @Mugsley because that would not have occured to me.
My goals here:
I want a decent gaming machine for 3-4 years, currently 1080p but considering a monitor switch to 1440p/*sync. I don't want to overclock, I don't want to tweak settings if I can help it. I appreciate quietness.
MSI B450-A PRO MAX B450, socket AM4 - Only 1 PCI 16x, but I don't more? I understand MSI is the best "budget" mobo brand at the moment.
AMD Ryzen 5 3600 socket AM4 processor - Everyone seems to agree this is the sweetspot
Gelid Solutions Rev.4 Tranquillo cpu-cooler - Hadn't heard of this brand, but it landed near the top of 2 tests I read for "budget coolers that outperform stock"
GIGABYTE Radeon RX 5700 XT GAMING OC 8G - Another agreed upon sweetspot seems to test as a quiet, idle and load
be quiet! Pure Power 11 700W, 700 Watt PSU - Advice here seemed to vary a lot. This seems a well regarded brand, more than enough juice.
Corsair 16 GB DDR4-3200 Kit CMK16GX4M2Z3200C16, Vengeance LPX - 3200 seems the max for the mobo
Kingston A2000, 1 TB SSD - 1TB should allow me to place 10 big modern games on it before I have to start swapping files.
Seagate BarraCuda, 4 TB HDD. - Big and Cheap, and mostly used to store games I am currently not playing (since my internet is not superfast, offloading downloaded games is faster than redownloading), or games that take no time to load anyway.
Corsair Carbide 200R window tower - It's a black case with no frills, which is what I want.
be quiet! Pure Wings 2 120mm case fan - The case comes with 2, I understand 3 is optimal (?)
Where is the PC being built and do they offer a website to make choices? Also what is your budget? I think most parts here are solid, the 700w PSU seems like overkill to me though, probably save some cash dropping that down to 550w. I wouldn't think you needed extra fans unless you find the Corsair case fans very loud.
This totals about €1400, which is probably the equivalent of a $1200 build for Americans, price of the parts. That includes a builder Win10. (Which is €110)
I understand that PSUs are optimal if they aren't stretched, and lose capacity over time. Which is why I was looking in the "650-700W" category
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
You won't need more than one x16 slot unless you plan to SLI (which I don't recommend).
Depending how soon you plan to build this, you may want to look to a Nvidia GPU due to the growing pains AMD is having with their graphics drivers (see previous 3-4 pages of this thread).
They are probably close enough in price you won't see a noticable change in the final, but you can check the following RAM brands: Crucial, G.Skill, Kingston, Micron, Mushkin
AMD Boost update and new Ryzen Master version
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
I dropped the PSU to 600W, same brand, dropped the extra fan. And pressed the order button.
I was waffling about RTX with the 2070 Super. The price difference was €140. Basically for that feature, since they benchmark quite similar.
But I was already 100 bucks over my target spend.
So I pressed pay.
Tomorrow I'll get the shipping eta narrowed. (They are quite busy at the moment, because of all the new hardware).
Buy it for the stability if the competitor isn’t .
Also while a 550w psu will get the job done, there’s nothing wrong with wanting some breathing room.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356