Please do post once you get going on it! I've a few scale models I pick up and put down over and over, yet to finish one.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I'll try and take a little WIP shot when I get home. Ironically, for what this thread is, I find myself absolutely loving putting things together these days and then just losing interest when it comes to painting. So for now I'm going to enjoy adding little 3mm ladders to things.
Well you are not the only one there. Here's some pictures of stuff just around my desk right now. I do think this is why I am drawn to gunpla on the regular. Easy to follow yet complex enough assemblies with a good looking final product before paint. Also, Lego.
Also, don't be like me, tanks are cool but god do they have just the worst steps in assembly in the form of the drive system.
J on
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Superglue can fume as it dries and cloud transparent plastic. That's why there's special glue for using on things like canopies and windows. It really depends on the glue type though. I just use a little dab of super glue in the holding point for my necron rods and never had any clouding issues.
Hey, care to elaborate on that one?
Alternatively, will polymer glue work?
If you want to try any other type of glue, just put a little dab into the holding positions for the rod and see what it does. So long as you're not just slopping sugerglue on and around the acrylic, you shouldn't have any issues with it fogging, and since it should be a part that never gets any force applied to it, a little bit goes a long way.
So I was going to paint my Chaos army as Alpha legion, but I just couldn't get the turquoise armor right and it frustrated me so much I eventually just put them down. I also get kind of frustrated with picking Legion colors then wanting to play different rules and hearing about how my World Eaters are Alpha legion colors...
Then I saw Dr Daves Lost and Damned on Instagram and thought I could probably take a crack at his scheme, but at a tabletop level more than his showroom level.
The inspiration...
My first test model in his Lost and Damned Scheme. His Lost and Damned are loyalists... I think maybe I'll call my lost Chaos Marines "The Blessed"
ok this is what I use to cut models
A cutting board. my brother does not have an issue with me using it just how it was a cheap cutting board back in the day compared to what you can get for cheap cutting boards now as they ae very questionable to very cheap
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I think I'll hold off on the cutting mat.
I kind of feel like doing some painting this weekend. I also feel like I've neglected my airbrush and should use it for something.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I kind of feel like doing some painting this weekend. I also feel like I've neglected my airbrush and should use it for something.
Do you have a van?
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
My progress isn't particularly exciting so far because I kind of have to wait for some more of these materials to come in before I can work on large parts of the ship. I can build out a few more guns and trim more of the main structure (none of it is glued together since it'll be much easier to add railings while they're in pieces), but otherwise I'm probably going to need to work more on some of my photo-etch parts (like the catapults) while I wait for the structural stuff.
Oh, and ... you know, for a better sense of scale:
My progress isn't particularly exciting so far because I kind of have to wait for some more of these materials to come in before I can work on large parts of the ship. I can build out a few more guns and trim more of the main structure (none of it is glued together since it'll be much easier to add railings while they're in pieces), but otherwise I'm probably going to need to work more on some of my photo-etch parts (like the catapults) while I wait for the structural stuff.
Oh, and ... you know, for a better sense of scale:
Oh, you meant 3mm tall. For some reason I thought you meant The ladder was 3mm wide and I was thinking that was a bit big for the scale you mentioned. Makes sense now.
I figured I'd try basing my new haunted Chaos marines with that new Mordant Earth basing material. It's pretty cool.
Both bases had an 1/8th inch thick layer of the material on the left side and a super skinny layer on the right side... turns out thick is the way to go. The left has a basecoat of a green ink and the right is a basecoat of vallejo game color livery green. The photo doesn't really do them justice, but I'm happy enough with the result I'll probably base the army with the thicker livery green base.
I know Warhammer tv has been doing the model in classic paint the next day in contrast.
I do feel as it goes on it's better to use both as some of the contrast I feel work better in certain areas than base. layer wash highlight highlight highlight
Horrible horrible models were really the only thing keeping me from battletech for so long, especially after falling in love with the mechwarrior games so much. With Mechwarrior Online and the Battletech PC game sharing the same fantastic updated designs (seriously, PGI knocks it out of the park breathing new life into terrible ancient mech designs), the tabletop game had some big boots to fill.
But honestly I think Catalyst has done a real good job with these. Their new models are at least on par with the PC game redesigns, and probably even a little better for minis because they're simpler.
Their next wave of models is looking fantastic and I can't wait to get some more. https://www.facebook.com/battletechgame/posts/10156598646593148
+3
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Hey all, I'm looking for a skaven model that will glow under UV light but something large-ish to fit as a center piece inside of a PC case. Do you guys have particular ventors you buy your unpainted models from? From the Games Workshop store I'm looking at a Warp Lightning Cannon that could fit the bill, but I thought I'd ask you smart folks if there's something I just haven't come across for me to browse. Forgeworld had nadda for skaven models that interested me...
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Really starting to get frustrated with my airbrush. I know I cleaned it last time I used it.
Started it up today to do a quick prime on two small pieces. It was immediately speckling and before I even finished the first small piece it started to clog. I used airflow improver to try and prevent this but it didn't help at all.
I never had issues like this with the stock airbrush my pump came with.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I like these updated mech models a lot. The originals looked like weird sculpy clay blobs.
I feel the same way for the most part, but my personal pet peeve is when the feet of a model stick out over the rim of their base. It's why I rebased a bunch of my Ork Boyz to 32s (the new Boy standard instead of the old 25mm Boy standard) even though it makes them less effective as a melee horde army.
So I was kind of stuck and tired out something
I don't know what to paint the cape as blue is well not something I want to do but I just don't know
Now with less blurry pics
Brainleech on
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
I actually meant to put this post here, and not in the 40K thread, although probably that means most people have seen it anyways.
I'm hoping someone might be able to help me source a replacement drybrush. I bought one of the Citadel small drybrushes a hell of a long time ago, and I have worn that tiny thing out. Unfortunately, GW stopped making that particular type a long time ago as well.
You can see in the picture how small the old style was, and how huge the current one is. The thing was, that little drybrush was amazing for doing small details, faces, other very delicate and fiddly highlight tasks, which I why I used it until nothing was left. The contemporary S drybrush is like, 4x times bigger than the one I was using when it was new.
Would anybody have a line on the non-GW branded types of these brushes, or a similarly sized stiff bristle brush that could be used for drybrushing? The part number was 99199999032 if that helps at all.
I like these updated mech models a lot. The originals looked like weird sculpy clay blobs.
I feel the same way for the most part, but my personal pet peeve is when the feet of a model stick out over the rim of their base. It's why I rebased a bunch of my Ork Boyz to 32s (the new Boy standard instead of the old 25mm Boy standard) even though it makes them less effective as a melee horde army.
Totally agree, but BT is unfortunately stuck with the problem because it's a hex-based game. The scale is also extremely abstracted; a 50 ton medium mech is almost the same size as a 100 ton assault mech.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Was the Raven in the first wave release? You've gotta paint one for me, Dude.
I’d like to see a battletech ‘skirmish’ game at a somewhat larger scale. Not nearly Titanicus scale but something with mechs that can come in multiple sizes. Dreadnought sized Atlases and so on for 1-4 mechs a side.
It’s mostly just an excuse for big highly detailed mechs though.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I’d like to see a battletech ‘skirmish’ game at a somewhat larger scale. Not nearly Titanicus scale but something with mechs that can come in multiple sizes. Dreadnought sized Atlases and so on for 1-4 mechs a side.
It’s mostly just an excuse for big highly detailed mechs though.
That's easy: use 1/60th scale models. It's a whole thing.
And then weep that you had to take out a second mortgage on your property just to afford the models.
Posts
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Also, don't be like me, tanks are cool but god do they have just the worst steps in assembly in the form of the drive system.
This is the stuff I was thinking of.
If you want to try any other type of glue, just put a little dab into the holding positions for the rod and see what it does. So long as you're not just slopping sugerglue on and around the acrylic, you shouldn't have any issues with it fogging, and since it should be a part that never gets any force applied to it, a little bit goes a long way.
Then I saw Dr Daves Lost and Damned on Instagram and thought I could probably take a crack at his scheme, but at a tabletop level more than his showroom level.
The inspiration...
My first test model in his Lost and Damned Scheme. His Lost and Damned are loyalists... I think maybe I'll call my lost Chaos Marines "The Blessed"
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
This scheme is actually pretty easy and fun to paint.
Now I just need to figure out how I want to base them.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
why green heads?
I tried to do some spooky green energy peeking through some basing material and it didn't really work
I might try that new mordant earth basing material to get it right
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Creepy warp possessed armor... Based of another guys version of the legion of the damned from reddit
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
A cutting board. my brother does not have an issue with me using it just how it was a cheap cutting board back in the day compared to what you can get for cheap cutting boards now as they ae very questionable to very cheap
I kind of feel like doing some painting this weekend. I also feel like I've neglected my airbrush and should use it for something.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Do you have a van?
Oh, and ... you know, for a better sense of scale:
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
H. Jon Benjamin does.
Oh, you meant 3mm tall. For some reason I thought you meant The ladder was 3mm wide and I was thinking that was a bit big for the scale you mentioned. Makes sense now.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Both bases had an 1/8th inch thick layer of the material on the left side and a super skinny layer on the right side... turns out thick is the way to go. The left has a basecoat of a green ink and the right is a basecoat of vallejo game color livery green. The photo doesn't really do them justice, but I'm happy enough with the result I'll probably base the army with the thicker livery green base.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I do feel as it goes on it's better to use both as some of the contrast I feel work better in certain areas than base. layer wash highlight highlight highlight
But honestly I think Catalyst has done a real good job with these. Their new models are at least on par with the PC game redesigns, and probably even a little better for minis because they're simpler.
Their next wave of models is looking fantastic and I can't wait to get some more.
https://www.facebook.com/battletechgame/posts/10156598646593148
Started it up today to do a quick prime on two small pieces. It was immediately speckling and before I even finished the first small piece it started to clog. I used airflow improver to try and prevent this but it didn't help at all.
I never had issues like this with the stock airbrush my pump came with.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I feel the same way for the most part, but my personal pet peeve is when the feet of a model stick out over the rim of their base. It's why I rebased a bunch of my Ork Boyz to 32s (the new Boy standard instead of the old 25mm Boy standard) even though it makes them less effective as a melee horde army.
I don't know what to paint the cape as blue is well not something I want to do but I just don't know
Now with less blurry pics
I'm hoping someone might be able to help me source a replacement drybrush. I bought one of the Citadel small drybrushes a hell of a long time ago, and I have worn that tiny thing out. Unfortunately, GW stopped making that particular type a long time ago as well.
You can see in the picture how small the old style was, and how huge the current one is. The thing was, that little drybrush was amazing for doing small details, faces, other very delicate and fiddly highlight tasks, which I why I used it until nothing was left. The contemporary S drybrush is like, 4x times bigger than the one I was using when it was new.
Would anybody have a line on the non-GW branded types of these brushes, or a similarly sized stiff bristle brush that could be used for drybrushing? The part number was 99199999032 if that helps at all.
Totally agree, but BT is unfortunately stuck with the problem because it's a hex-based game. The scale is also extremely abstracted; a 50 ton medium mech is almost the same size as a 100 ton assault mech.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It’s mostly just an excuse for big highly detailed mechs though.
That's easy: use 1/60th scale models. It's a whole thing.
And then weep that you had to take out a second mortgage on your property just to afford the models.
So, not much different from a GW hobby?