I bought this faucet because it was advertised as fitting 4" to 6" centers.
4.75" isn't 4"...
Oh the instructions are helpful...
"Fits 4" centers if you cut pieces off it."
This isn't uncommon for this kind of stuff. The expectation is that if you can do the work to install the fixture, taking a bit off won't be a big deal.
I think it's where the chain on the old style drop-in drain plug would've passed through. It's just open to the under side of the sink, the front lip has the overflow drain holes in it.
Anyone have experience with exposed tendon anchors on post-tension foundations? The concrete has flaked off a couple of anchors in my foundation, and I’m wondering if I should just clean and patch it myself, or if it’s something that warrants calling a professional in. The foundation did have some work done on it years ago and I haven’t had any issues, but I also have never dealt with a post-tension foundation before and don’t know if you need to call someone as soon as you see an anchor or what.
If it's just the tendon and not the hairpin rebar I think you'd be fine to just grout the end back in.
Granted I've got no personal experience with that kind of foundation.
0
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Anyone here have anything good to say about Nest thermostats?
Ease of installation/use?
Easy to install, even easier to use. I replaced what was probably the original Honeywell thermostat (40 years old in that case) and now have a nice little programable thermostat I can access remotely.
That's everything I wanted out of it.
+1
AegisFear My DanceOvershot Toronto, Landed in OttawaRegistered Userregular
I think it's where the chain on the old style drop-in drain plug would've passed through. It's just open to the under side of the sink, the front lip has the overflow drain holes in it.
For something heavy like a medicine cabinet (vs like a towel rack) how important is it that you attach it to a stud? I want to put one up in my master bath on the short wall next to the sink but the stud placement on that wall isn't such that I could use a stud when hanging it up. Will drywall anchors be enough or should I get some additional wood that I connect perpendicular to the stud and then attach the cabinet to that?
For something heavy like a medicine cabinet (vs like a towel rack) how important is it that you attach it to a stud? I want to put one up in my master bath on the short wall next to the sink but the stud placement on that wall isn't such that I could use a stud when hanging it up. Will drywall anchors be enough or should I get some additional wood that I connect perpendicular to the stud and then attach the cabinet to that?
How heavy is the medicine cabinet? if it's a light aluminum thing I wouldn't be too worried about finding the stud.
If it's heavier, then you should do the latter; joust a piece of wood between the studs and use it to anchor the cabinet in place.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
edited November 2019
Get a prescription for a weight loss drug.
Or just use some big anchors. I've gone with a couple of 50lbers and never had an issue.
Dry wall anchors have weight ratings on them. Put the medicine cabinet on a scale, add say 20 lbs to be on the safe side (for what goes into it), then find an anchor rated for that much weight. Or that much weight divided by two if you are using two anchors.
They make anchors that are rated for like 150 lbs, so I am sure you could find what you need.
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
+1
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I use these for hanging soundbars at jobs because they never hit studs if you're centering them below a TV. They're great for drywall and plaster.
The best method is getting a recessed cabinet so you can open the wall and build a frame for it to sit inside the wall. The second best method is using some sort of strapping either actual strapping or a big chunk of plywood screwed into the studs.
I'd open the wall. Drywall and paint are cheap and you want to avoid using anchors in rooms that have lots of moisture because it will weaken the drywall over time and in 5 or so years that thing will rip itself off the wall even with only band aids in it.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
+2
AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
So I gots me a leaky turlet. Discovered drips in the basement whenever we flush it. I suspect the wax seal is toast, but the flange could be busted too for all I know. Additionally, I have no idea how long this has been going on for so I'm hoping the subfloor isn't fucked. Is this more a DIY situation or is it best to call a plumber?
Got the bathroom silicone'd up. Ultimately it needs to come out, but that can wait till the other bathroom...exists.
+1
AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
Ok so I replaced the wax seal on my leaky turlet. That was thoroughly disgusting. That old wax is a supreme pain in the butt to clean off the flange and the bottom of the toilet. It's so sticky and soaked in urine and turd water from the leaks. I actually opted for a wax free gasket so at least if I have to do this again I won't need to deal with that nasty wax. Setting the toilet and lining it up just right with the drain is hard enough on its own.
The subfloor seemed ok except in some spots right up against the flange and drain pipe. But the flange and pipe seemed pretty solid. It's all cast iron, a little surface rust but otherwise ok. I discovered the true problem though. The flange is not level with the floor, leading to toilet wobble and eventual gasket failure. My plan is to shim the toilet to stop the wobbles. Hopefully that will be the end of it. So far so good though, the basement drips seem to have stopped.
+1
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Ok so I replaced the wax seal on my leaky turlet. That was thoroughly disgusting. That old wax is a supreme pain in the butt to clean off the flange and the bottom of the toilet. It's so sticky and soaked in urine and turd water from the leaks. I actually opted for a wax free gasket so at least if I have to do this again I won't need to deal with that nasty wax. Setting the toilet and lining it up just right with the drain is hard enough on its own.
The subfloor seemed ok except in some spots right up against the flange and drain pipe. But the flange and pipe seemed pretty solid. It's all cast iron, a little surface rust but otherwise ok. I discovered the true problem though. The flange is not level with the floor, leading to toilet wobble and eventual gasket failure. My plan is to shim the toilet to stop the wobbles. Hopefully that will be the end of it. So far so good though, the basement drips seem to have stopped.
As long as the subfloor wasn't actually rotten, it will all dry out and be fine. Even if it is a bit rotten, it will still all dry out.
Spent all day re-framing my garage roof. Old owner removed a bunch of joists to install the garage door opener track. Which, of course, lead to the rafters kicking out the top plate and wall where the joist was acting as a rafter tie. Re-installed new joists, and turned the existing joists into trusses so that I could safely remove another part of one of the joists so I could create a golf hitting station in my garage for the 6 months a year it's too cold to swing outside.
My step-dad, a retired contractor was on hand to give all the expertise, but couldn't really do much work anymore due to arthritis, so I pretty much did it all. Apparently, being a professional desk jockey does not prepare one for construction work. Using a pro-grade pneumatic nailgun for 7 hours straight has left me unable to lift my arms...
Weird issue, first time replacing electrical outlets.
The kitchen outlets are all in a series, and I’m installing a gfci outlet at the first outlet. Got it in fine, flipped the breaker back on, and now I’m getting power at the downstream outlets, but not the new GFCI outlet. Did I mix up a wire somewhere, or is this possibly an issue with the GFCI outlet itself? I’ve tried resetting/testing with no luck.
I’m about to uninstall the outlet and use a multimeter to make sure I’ve got the right wires in the right place (next time I’ll be sure to do this the first time), but again, first time doing this, so it’s possible I’m on the wrong track.
Edit: Right wires, outlet installed upside down. Ugh.
Edit edit: Nope. Now no power anywhere on the line.
Weird issue, first time replacing electrical outlets.
The kitchen outlets are all in a series, and I’m installing a gfci outlet at the first outlet. Got it in fine, flipped the breaker back on, and now I’m getting power at the downstream outlets, but not the new GFCI outlet. Did I mix up a wire somewhere, or is this possibly an issue with the GFCI outlet itself? I’ve tried resetting/testing with no luck.
I’m about to uninstall the outlet and use a multimeter to make sure I’ve got the right wires in the right place (next time I’ll be sure to do this the first time), but again, first time doing this, so it’s possible I’m on the wrong track.
Edit: Right wires, outlet installed upside down. Ugh.
Edit edit: Nope. Now no power anywhere on the line.
Huh.
Solved! Mixed up the neutral wires first time around, then did a bunch of dumb things before figuring that out.
Weird issue, first time replacing electrical outlets.
The kitchen outlets are all in a series, and I’m installing a gfci outlet at the first outlet. Got it in fine, flipped the breaker back on, and now I’m getting power at the downstream outlets, but not the new GFCI outlet. Did I mix up a wire somewhere, or is this possibly an issue with the GFCI outlet itself? I’ve tried resetting/testing with no luck.
I’m about to uninstall the outlet and use a multimeter to make sure I’ve got the right wires in the right place (next time I’ll be sure to do this the first time), but again, first time doing this, so it’s possible I’m on the wrong track.
Edit: Right wires, outlet installed upside down. Ugh.
Edit edit: Nope. Now no power anywhere on the line.
Huh.
Solved! Mixed up the neutral wires first time around, then did a bunch of dumb things before figuring that out.
First time I installed a GFCI I did the same thing. Misread the instructions and got the outlet upside down and upstream wires and downstream backwards. The GFCI lights up green to start if you did it wrong, but red to start if you installed it correctly, then you reset to get it functioning the first time. Spent a good hour on that one.
@AbsoluteZero they make little plastic shims to level toilets, grab some of them, you'll never level off a toilet without a full reno of the space usually
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
+1
MortiousThe Nightmare BeginsMove to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
Someone got tired of constantly looking for extension cords.
Cool, I think I get that most of the year. Will try something come spring and see how it goes. I'm interested if anyone has experience with differing setups or recommendations, etc.
Putting aside how crazy it is to have an open bathroom, that shower's even more crazy. No walls or mounting for curtains or anything. Just gonna spray out into the hallway I guess.
Posts
This isn't uncommon for this kind of stuff. The expectation is that if you can do the work to install the fixture, taking a bit off won't be a big deal.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
It even looks happier than the old faucet.
Assume the middle hole is to feed the power for the temp-based LEDs?
Granted I've got no personal experience with that kind of foundation.
Easy to install, even easier to use. I replaced what was probably the original Honeywell thermostat (40 years old in that case) and now have a nice little programable thermostat I can access remotely.
That's everything I wanted out of it.
So that's what those holes are for.
Currently DMing: None
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[5e] Dural Melairkyn - AC 18 | HP 40 | Melee +5/1d8+3 | Spell +4/DC 12
How heavy is the medicine cabinet? if it's a light aluminum thing I wouldn't be too worried about finding the stud.
If it's heavier, then you should do the latter; joust a piece of wood between the studs and use it to anchor the cabinet in place.
Or just use some big anchors. I've gone with a couple of 50lbers and never had an issue.
Can you build a cleat that anchors to both studs but is covered by the cabinet?
They make anchors that are rated for like 150 lbs, so I am sure you could find what you need.
I'd open the wall. Drywall and paint are cheap and you want to avoid using anchors in rooms that have lots of moisture because it will weaken the drywall over time and in 5 or so years that thing will rip itself off the wall even with only band aids in it.
But if it's the flange or a joint in the pipe just get a plumber at that point.
The subfloor seemed ok except in some spots right up against the flange and drain pipe. But the flange and pipe seemed pretty solid. It's all cast iron, a little surface rust but otherwise ok. I discovered the true problem though. The flange is not level with the floor, leading to toilet wobble and eventual gasket failure. My plan is to shim the toilet to stop the wobbles. Hopefully that will be the end of it. So far so good though, the basement drips seem to have stopped.
As long as the subfloor wasn't actually rotten, it will all dry out and be fine. Even if it is a bit rotten, it will still all dry out.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
My step-dad, a retired contractor was on hand to give all the expertise, but couldn't really do much work anymore due to arthritis, so I pretty much did it all. Apparently, being a professional desk jockey does not prepare one for construction work. Using a pro-grade pneumatic nailgun for 7 hours straight has left me unable to lift my arms...
The kitchen outlets are all in a series, and I’m installing a gfci outlet at the first outlet. Got it in fine, flipped the breaker back on, and now I’m getting power at the downstream outlets, but not the new GFCI outlet. Did I mix up a wire somewhere, or is this possibly an issue with the GFCI outlet itself? I’ve tried resetting/testing with no luck.
I’m about to uninstall the outlet and use a multimeter to make sure I’ve got the right wires in the right place (next time I’ll be sure to do this the first time), but again, first time doing this, so it’s possible I’m on the wrong track.
Edit: Right wires, outlet installed upside down. Ugh.
Edit edit: Nope. Now no power anywhere on the line.
Huh.
I don't think a window will give enough light for herbs to grow? At least from cursory googling.
Is it a light filtering thing? My windows get a lot of light. They're east facing, but it remains bright most of the day.
I think you need at least 6 hours of sun, so if your window can do that, you're probably alright?
https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-herbs-indoors-on-a-sunny-windowsill-1403425
Solved! Mixed up the neutral wires first time around, then did a bunch of dumb things before figuring that out.
I'll say that my attempts to grow some potted herbs I picked up by the window a few months back did not go as well as I had hoped.
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3DS: 3454-0268-5595 Battle.net: SteelAngel#1772
First time I installed a GFCI I did the same thing. Misread the instructions and got the outlet upside down and upstream wires and downstream backwards. The GFCI lights up green to start if you did it wrong, but red to start if you installed it correctly, then you reset to get it functioning the first time. Spent a good hour on that one.
https://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/homed/houses/117195254/why-so-many-sockets-263m-uk-home-with-hundreds-of-power-points-creates-confusion
It’s not a very important country most of the time
http://steamcommunity.com/id/mortious
Also those lights on the walls look like showerheads.
They are shower heads, because water + hardwood floors+ unlimited current=one hell of a party
― John Quincy Adams
You'll probably be dead by then, though.
And that house will probably have morphed into a single ginormous BS 1363 outlet.
~ Buckaroo Banzai
Cool, I think I get that most of the year. Will try something come spring and see how it goes. I'm interested if anyone has experience with differing setups or recommendations, etc.
Putting aside how crazy it is to have an open bathroom, that shower's even more crazy. No walls or mounting for curtains or anything. Just gonna spray out into the hallway I guess.