They are clearly going for the high end Model 3 or Model S crowd with the Mustang E. I mean, you could be forgiven for thinking the interior was that of a Model S. I don't think Ford is trying to win over any piston Mustang converts. I love the design and styling. It's probably be a blast to drive and will absolutely destroy a piston mustang at the track. I'm more looking forward to seeing what Ford's next few EV offerings will be. Can they followup the Mustang E with a Focus E or a Fiesta E? I know a lot of people who are looking forward to Ford's EV Pickup that's on the horizon. They've got a lot of ground to cover, though. Tesla has a decade headstart and a near cult-like following. LIkewise GM and Nissan are way ahead. Even BMW, VW and Mini will (or already have) have products people can and will buy. Ford on the other hand has never made a fully electrified vehicle outside of shitty compliance cars. I hope their experience with plug in hybrids will help kickstart the conversion.
Highly unlikely, considering the raised ride height and the fact that the base V8 outguns all of the claimed straight line specs of the EV. I suspect even the cheapest Ecoboost models would beat it around a track.
It looks like the fastest Shelby GT Mustang has a 0-60 of 3.3 sec. The normal GT is around 3.8 sec. The top model of Mustang EV will do it in 3.5 sec. Where are you getting your figures from?
Hmm I must be mistaken, I thought I had seen 5 seconds for 0-60. 3.5 is a different story, though I think it will still fall behind on a track due to tall ride height.
Pretty much any designation applied to high performance cars eventually just becomes generic halo model branding.
For instance, Honda Type-Rs were at one point thinly veiled homologation specials for production racing classes. Thinner glass for weight saving, no stereo, factory strut braces, three way adjustable dampers, and so forth. Now it's a trim level.
Similarly Seat Cupra models, Mercedes AMG, BMW M-Sport, Mini Cooper, etc.
Eventually they all just mean "this is the expensive one" with little to no connection to the original meaning of the mark.
Pretty much any designation applied to high performance cars eventually just becomes generic halo model branding.
For instance, Honda Type-Rs were at one point thinly veiled homologation specials for production racing classes. Thinner glass for weight saving, no stereo, factory strut braces, three way adjustable dampers, and so forth. Now it's a trim level.
Similarly Seat Cupra models, Mercedes AMG, BMW M-Sport, Mini Cooper, etc.
Eventually they all just mean "this is the expensive one" with little to no connection to the original meaning of the mark.
What Ford is doing here is not using a common trim level across all models or using the trim level as shorthand like your examples. They are using the same model name for different models of cars. That is, they aren't doing like a Mustang Mach E and Focus Mach E so for shorthand they might all be generically called Ford Mach E's, they are instead doing Mustang (2-door coupe) and Mustang (SUV).
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
That's exactly what Seat did with the Cupra mark, Volvo did with Polestar, or Citroen did with DS.
They became sub brands with their own models, whereas previously they had been individual models or model designations.
No, Ford is not turning some Trim name like "Mach" or Model name like "Mustang" into a separate Make like your examples. Like I said, they are confusingly slapping one very well known sportscar Model name on a completely separate hatchback Model and then will be selling both as the same Ford Mustang name because they apparently hired Homer Simpson as a brand manager. This isn't Ford selling the same "Mustang" model just with a different drivetrain like the Ford Mustang Mach-E naming convention might imply and actually would make sense.
Polestar for example was its own completely separate racing and tuning company that Volvo only purchased just a few years ago. Polestar tuned and trim-badged Volvos (eg: Volvo (make) S60 (model) Polestar (trim) or Volvo V60 Polestar) were sold by Polestar themselves, they weren't made or sold by Volvo. Similar to Saleen and Ford. And now that Polestar is owned by Volvo, it's being used as an independent manufacturer name, i.e., their cars are not called the Volvo (make) Polestar (model) 1 or Volvo Polestar 2, it's just a Polestar (make) 1 (model) or Polestar 2. Their 2-door coupe "1" and 4-door sedan "2" models do not both have the same name, which is what Ford is doing, because that would be stupid and confusing.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Does anyone have decent knowledge when it comes to selling cars for salvage?
I sold my '98 Malibu for $250 to salvage with blown airbags and head gasket that was about to completely go in 2012.
Now I have a '03 Buick Century that I need to get rid of that has electrical gremlins and a head gasket that isn't done for but would probably need to be replaced before the engine could be repurposed. Except everything I'm finding online is like $30-$60 and that seems, um, a tad low.
Is the best bet to just start calling local places?
Does anyone have decent knowledge when it comes to selling cars for salvage?
I sold my '98 Malibu for $250 to salvage with blown airbags and head gasket that was about to completely go in 2012.
Now I have a '03 Buick Century that I need to get rid of that has electrical gremlins and a head gasket that isn't done for but would probably need to be replaced before the engine could be repurposed. Except everything I'm finding online is like $30-$60 and that seems, um, a tad low.
Is the best bet to just start calling local places?
If your local high school/vo-tech has an auto repair program, you can see about donating the car - they're usually looking for clunkers that their students can wrench on.
Does anyone have decent knowledge when it comes to selling cars for salvage?
I sold my '98 Malibu for $250 to salvage with blown airbags and head gasket that was about to completely go in 2012.
Now I have a '03 Buick Century that I need to get rid of that has electrical gremlins and a head gasket that isn't done for but would probably need to be replaced before the engine could be repurposed. Except everything I'm finding online is like $30-$60 and that seems, um, a tad low.
Is the best bet to just start calling local places?
If your local high school/vo-tech has an auto repair program, you can see about donating the car - they're usually looking for clunkers that their students can wrench on.
If you have anything like this nearby please do so. You'll get a thing to put on your taxes if you don't need the money and it'll do some real good.
It's about goddamn time Ford made a full EV. I just wish it was a $30k EV Fiesta not a $50k (before rebates) muscle car.
I am so frustrated at the lack of options for small, cheap EVs in the US. We're not getting the VW ID3. The Kia and Hyundai EVs are both crossovers and start in the high $30ks before tax rebate. You still can't get a $35k Model 3. Even if you could, Tesla losing the full $7500 tax rebate makes the value prospect all the less attractive. If the BMW i3 were about 30k cheaper, it might be on the short list.
What does that leave us with? The Nissan Leaf and the upcoming Mini Cooper SE. Now there is some pretty valid criticism that can be leveled at both of the Leaf and the Mini. The Leaf is kind of wimpy at the $30k price point. It doesn't exactly thrill with it's handling. The biggest problem, and the deal breaker for me, is the lack of thermal management on the battery system. The battery compartment does have a heater to keep the sweet electrolytic juices from freezing up, there is no way to get rid of heat once it's generated. This severely limits it's charging and performance capabilities, mostly on longer trips.
That mini does look pretty cool compared to a number of the other EVs out there. However, if you think the Leaf is kind of wimpy with 236 lb/ft of torque and a 0-60 in 7.4, I don't think the Mini Cooper SE will wow you with it's 199 lb/ft of torque and 0-60 of 7.3
A few other things: I think you can still get the Model 3 for $35k, you just have to order it in a store. They intentionally made it harder to order because money. The federal credit isn't completely gone but it is only $1,875 at this point and is gone Jan 1st. Then there are a few other option I think you may have missed. The VW e-golf is available in some states in the US for $32k and it isn't too hard to buy a car from out of state. Then there is the Hyndai IONIQ EV which I don't think is a crossover and is available for ~$30k.
I think it is hard to get to the quality you would normally expect out of a ICE ~$30-40k car because the EVs with ~100 mile range have battery packs that are a little less than $10k. I'm assuming that cost goes up linearly with increase in range. To get the costs down I'm sure they have to cut corners in other areas that a typical ICE car doesn't have to. On top of that I don't know if most people who are looking at lower end EVs are really looking for sporty and fun to drive. It seems like it would be difficult to thread the needle between a ride that is sporty and one that is comfortable without throwing on an expensive adjustable suspension. I've had the chance to drive a Leaf gen 1 and 2, Model 3, Prius Prime, and Bolt. Out of all those the Bolt had the most comical suspension. When I punched it in sport mode the rear springs compressed so much I felt like I went from looking at the road to looking at the sky.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
Does anyone have decent knowledge when it comes to selling cars for salvage?
I sold my '98 Malibu for $250 to salvage with blown airbags and head gasket that was about to completely go in 2012.
Now I have a '03 Buick Century that I need to get rid of that has electrical gremlins and a head gasket that isn't done for but would probably need to be replaced before the engine could be repurposed. Except everything I'm finding online is like $30-$60 and that seems, um, a tad low.
Is the best bet to just start calling local places?
If your local high school/vo-tech has an auto repair program, you can see about donating the car - they're usually looking for clunkers that their students can wrench on.
Our local high schools use the students cars for the basics (literally I knew kids who took the class just to avoid basic maintenance costs) along with having deals with salvage yards for donations but that's not a bad idea.
Getting something for it would be nice but mostly I just want to get rid of it because having to move it semi-regularly is a hassle and having it gone before the real snow hits would be a huge plus.
On an unrelated note I washed the new car and I'm already half regretting buying a black vehicle because of course it rained today and now my car looks worse than it did on Saturday.
I always thought the curse was a superstition and yet
My first car was black. I said never again, but now I have a car a green dark enough it might as well be black, lol. Such a pain in the ass to keep clean, but it looks amazing when it's clean.
I got very into detailing my car this summer, and did a popular combo of wax and sealant of Jescar Powerlock and Collinite 845 to get me through the winter. However, I think I'm going to ceramic coat it this spring after a full correction. I didn't particularly enjoy the process and time commitment of multiple layers of sealant and wax on a white car. If I can get 2 years+ protection in half the time it took me to do what I did before I'm all for it. A spray on sealant with an in brand topper would also be an easier and more affordable option (something like Sonax PNS + BSD), but I'm still leaning towards one of the many prosumer ceramic coatings available.
I just mean the fox body is not a muscle car. At all. Even a little. Regardless of what's under the hood.
Muscle car as a term is incredibly vague and the definition gets thrown around like "artisanal" is to small batch products. One I've seen mentioned is that a lot of older muscle cars were cars that had the body of a family sedan but with a powerful engine as opposed to a body designed as a sports car while Mustangs are in the different category of pony car that they're largely responsible for. Admittedly that term does not sound as good in marketing though.
Sssshhh, don't tell them I told you, but I just took a survey from Subaru for current owners and it was like 15 questions only on the topic of names for an all electric SUV. Guess I'm in the buyer's market again soon.
As a Subaru owner since 2007, Subaru disappointed me by being on the administration side on the lawsuit against California. Moving to full electric drivetrains might help dampen that.
I don’t think that for the way I use it (relatively frequent 4-8 hour round trips, carrying a bunch of gear, with no charging infrastructure at the destination), an electric SUV makes sense yet. I hope our next passenger car is electric though, if the Corolla ever dies.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I don’t think that for the way I use it (relatively frequent 4-8 hour round trips, carrying a bunch of gear, with no charging infrastructure at the destination), an electric SUV makes sense yet. I hope our next passenger car is electric though, if the Corolla ever dies.
As a Subaru owner since 2007, Subaru disappointed me by being on the administration side on the lawsuit against California. Moving to full electric drivetrains might help dampen that.
I've owned nothing but Subarus since 96. Pissed me off so much
Does anyone have a recommendation for a dashcam, I've been thinking about getting one for a while but I have no idea where to start or really how to install. I guess I'll need to run cables under the headliner? Fun.
I myself have this kinda setup in my car. Records both front and back cameras, and syncs the file names so it's easy to find the same time frame on both. Useless at night since mine is mounted so low, but I use the rear camera feed as a rearview mirror under normal conditions.
Running the wires for the front cam seem easy enough in most cars. In my wife's car the A-pillar trim just snaps off, and there's enough of a gap in between the headliner to stuff the cable behind, and enough of a crack between the dash to route cable with the rest of the wiring. Unless you have an obscure car I can't imagine it's hard to find guided directions on how to do it all.
Get it ceramic coated, a quick rinse down with a hose will wash all the dirt right off. Makes keeping the car clean much easier.
I had the SS ceramic coated and after that, would consider it mandatory for any "nice" car I buy in the future.
How did you go about doing this? Is it a specialty shop that does it, an auto-body place? I have no interest in trying to do anything like this myself, as it would turn out looking like a kindergartener's art project.
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L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Get it ceramic coated, a quick rinse down with a hose will wash all the dirt right off. Makes keeping the car clean much easier.
I had the SS ceramic coated and after that, would consider it mandatory for any "nice" car I buy in the future.
How did you go about doing this? Is it a specialty shop that does it, an auto-body place? I have no interest in trying to do anything like this myself, as it would turn out looking like a kindergartener's art project.
Get it ceramic coated, a quick rinse down with a hose will wash all the dirt right off. Makes keeping the car clean much easier.
I had the SS ceramic coated and after that, would consider it mandatory for any "nice" car I buy in the future.
How did you go about doing this? Is it a specialty shop that does it, an auto-body place? I have no interest in trying to do anything like this myself, as it would turn out looking like a kindergartener's art project.
If you want to get it professionally done there are a lot of factors that can effect the total cost, but at a bare minimum expect $750-1000. Doing a ceramic coat requires a lot of pre-application labor in the washing, decontamination (chemical and physical), at least a one if not multi-stage paint correction, and then the application of the coating itself. Typically a 1-2 day at least time frame too.
A Google search of your area should turn up some results of local detailing shops or independant mobile detailers. Check for reviews and the detailer's social media to see what the quality of their work looks like.
There are some really good synthetic spray sealants you can apply at home that really only require a thoroughly cleaned car to apply and last 6-8 months. You'll have an upfront cost of $100 or so for some good decontamination and car wash stuff, and then $20-60 for a good sealant. Easily something you could do in a couple of hours without any worry of messing anything up.
There's a huge resource of channels on Youtube to get you started on basic wash techniques and methods to apply your sealant of choice. Apex Detail, Forensic Detailing, Car Cleaning Guru, FAB Automotive, Miranda Detailing, and Wilson Auto Detailing are all good channels to learn about products, techniques, and comparisons. Some are more product shill prone then others (Wilson Detailing is very much so at times), but the rest of the are either not at all or minimally so.
I can also understand not wanting to do it yourself and if you don't space or access to a hose. There are rinseless and waterless solutions that work very well, but they're harder to do if you're not comfortable or familiar with the techniques and procedures. Most people are happy to pay for professionals to do it, and you could also just have someone do a thorough cleaning inside and our, a one step correction, and sealant application for $200-300. Some places may be doing winter prep special packages in that price range.
Get it ceramic coated, a quick rinse down with a hose will wash all the dirt right off. Makes keeping the car clean much easier.
I had the SS ceramic coated and after that, would consider it mandatory for any "nice" car I buy in the future.
How did you go about doing this? Is it a specialty shop that does it, an auto-body place? I have no interest in trying to do anything like this myself, as it would turn out looking like a kindergartener's art project.
I'm lucky enough to know somebody who was formerly a detailer for a local Ferrari dealership, and does work on the side, so I paid him to do it. Typically you would go through a detailing shop.
As Cormac noted, there's a fair amount of prep work that needs to be done - clay bar/polish to get to a clean surface before the product is applied. Not sure on the going rate these days.
Get it ceramic coated, a quick rinse down with a hose will wash all the dirt right off. Makes keeping the car clean much easier.
I had the SS ceramic coated and after that, would consider it mandatory for any "nice" car I buy in the future.
How did you go about doing this? Is it a specialty shop that does it, an auto-body place? I have no interest in trying to do anything like this myself, as it would turn out looking like a kindergartener's art project.
I'm lucky enough to know somebody who was formerly a detailer for a local Ferrari dealership, and does work on the side, so I paid him to do it. Typically you would go through a detailing shop.
As Cormac noted, there's a fair amount of prep work that needs to be done - clay bar/polish to get to a clean surface before the product is applied. Not sure on the going rate these days.
My brother does this professionally and it runs usually between $200-$600 depending on what you want done, and potential upcharges for rare cars or finicky paints.
Ninja Snarl PMy helmet is my burden.Ninja Snarl: Gone, but not forgotten.Registered Userregular
I love the way that truck looks, so much more distinctive than all the bland crap on the road these days. It's even got a stainless steel body, which is perfect for flux dispersal when constructing a time travel vehicle!
About the only real gripe I have is that the model with the 500-mile range is $70k. The next model down is $50k for a perfectly reasonable 300 mile range (pretty much the minimum range I'd want out of any vehicle) and AWD; don't really see the base model as an option because why bother with a truck that's only RWD? Not quite enough for me to buy it, but it would be damned tempting if that 500-mile range was on the $50k model.
I really wish it had an 8' bed, the specs state that the 'vault'/bed is only 6.5' so no hauling drywall. Otherwise it seems to check all the boxes at the mid-level/2 motor trim level to legit replace a full size pickup.
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It looks like the fastest Shelby GT Mustang has a 0-60 of 3.3 sec. The normal GT is around 3.8 sec. The top model of Mustang EV will do it in 3.5 sec. Where are you getting your figures from?
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
If a 2 door hatchback gets to be called a Mustang Mach E, I assume they'll call a small 4-door hatchback something even stupider like Mustang Boss E.
For instance, Honda Type-Rs were at one point thinly veiled homologation specials for production racing classes. Thinner glass for weight saving, no stereo, factory strut braces, three way adjustable dampers, and so forth. Now it's a trim level.
Similarly Seat Cupra models, Mercedes AMG, BMW M-Sport, Mini Cooper, etc.
Eventually they all just mean "this is the expensive one" with little to no connection to the original meaning of the mark.
What Ford is doing here is not using a common trim level across all models or using the trim level as shorthand like your examples. They are using the same model name for different models of cars. That is, they aren't doing like a Mustang Mach E and Focus Mach E so for shorthand they might all be generically called Ford Mach E's, they are instead doing Mustang (2-door coupe) and Mustang (SUV).
They became sub brands with their own models, whereas previously they had been individual models or model designations.
No, Ford is not turning some Trim name like "Mach" or Model name like "Mustang" into a separate Make like your examples. Like I said, they are confusingly slapping one very well known sportscar Model name on a completely separate hatchback Model and then will be selling both as the same Ford Mustang name because they apparently hired Homer Simpson as a brand manager. This isn't Ford selling the same "Mustang" model just with a different drivetrain like the Ford Mustang Mach-E naming convention might imply and actually would make sense.
Polestar for example was its own completely separate racing and tuning company that Volvo only purchased just a few years ago. Polestar tuned and trim-badged Volvos (eg: Volvo (make) S60 (model) Polestar (trim) or Volvo V60 Polestar) were sold by Polestar themselves, they weren't made or sold by Volvo. Similar to Saleen and Ford. And now that Polestar is owned by Volvo, it's being used as an independent manufacturer name, i.e., their cars are not called the Volvo (make) Polestar (model) 1 or Volvo Polestar 2, it's just a Polestar (make) 1 (model) or Polestar 2. Their 2-door coupe "1" and 4-door sedan "2" models do not both have the same name, which is what Ford is doing, because that would be stupid and confusing.
I sold my '98 Malibu for $250 to salvage with blown airbags and head gasket that was about to completely go in 2012.
Now I have a '03 Buick Century that I need to get rid of that has electrical gremlins and a head gasket that isn't done for but would probably need to be replaced before the engine could be repurposed. Except everything I'm finding online is like $30-$60 and that seems, um, a tad low.
Is the best bet to just start calling local places?
If your local high school/vo-tech has an auto repair program, you can see about donating the car - they're usually looking for clunkers that their students can wrench on.
Seems like you could do better listing it on Craigslist for $250 as a parts car.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
If you have anything like this nearby please do so. You'll get a thing to put on your taxes if you don't need the money and it'll do some real good.
That mini does look pretty cool compared to a number of the other EVs out there. However, if you think the Leaf is kind of wimpy with 236 lb/ft of torque and a 0-60 in 7.4, I don't think the Mini Cooper SE will wow you with it's 199 lb/ft of torque and 0-60 of 7.3
A few other things: I think you can still get the Model 3 for $35k, you just have to order it in a store. They intentionally made it harder to order because money. The federal credit isn't completely gone but it is only $1,875 at this point and is gone Jan 1st. Then there are a few other option I think you may have missed. The VW e-golf is available in some states in the US for $32k and it isn't too hard to buy a car from out of state. Then there is the Hyndai IONIQ EV which I don't think is a crossover and is available for ~$30k.
I think it is hard to get to the quality you would normally expect out of a ICE ~$30-40k car because the EVs with ~100 mile range have battery packs that are a little less than $10k. I'm assuming that cost goes up linearly with increase in range. To get the costs down I'm sure they have to cut corners in other areas that a typical ICE car doesn't have to. On top of that I don't know if most people who are looking at lower end EVs are really looking for sporty and fun to drive. It seems like it would be difficult to thread the needle between a ride that is sporty and one that is comfortable without throwing on an expensive adjustable suspension. I've had the chance to drive a Leaf gen 1 and 2, Model 3, Prius Prime, and Bolt. Out of all those the Bolt had the most comical suspension. When I punched it in sport mode the rear springs compressed so much I felt like I went from looking at the road to looking at the sky.
Our local high schools use the students cars for the basics (literally I knew kids who took the class just to avoid basic maintenance costs) along with having deals with salvage yards for donations but that's not a bad idea.
Getting something for it would be nice but mostly I just want to get rid of it because having to move it semi-regularly is a hassle and having it gone before the real snow hits would be a huge plus.
On an unrelated note I washed the new car and I'm already half regretting buying a black vehicle because of course it rained today and now my car looks worse than it did on Saturday.
I always thought the curse was a superstition and yet
My next car might have to not be.
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I had the SS ceramic coated and after that, would consider it mandatory for any "nice" car I buy in the future.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Muscle car as a term is incredibly vague and the definition gets thrown around like "artisanal" is to small batch products. One I've seen mentioned is that a lot of older muscle cars were cars that had the body of a family sedan but with a powerful engine as opposed to a body designed as a sports car while Mustangs are in the different category of pony car that they're largely responsible for. Admittedly that term does not sound as good in marketing though.
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Diesel would be your best bet.
I've owned nothing but Subarus since 96. Pissed me off so much
I myself have this kinda setup in my car. Records both front and back cameras, and syncs the file names so it's easy to find the same time frame on both. Useless at night since mine is mounted so low, but I use the rear camera feed as a rearview mirror under normal conditions.
Running the wires for the front cam seem easy enough in most cars. In my wife's car the A-pillar trim just snaps off, and there's enough of a gap in between the headliner to stuff the cable behind, and enough of a crack between the dash to route cable with the rest of the wiring. Unless you have an obscure car I can't imagine it's hard to find guided directions on how to do it all.
How did you go about doing this? Is it a specialty shop that does it, an auto-body place? I have no interest in trying to do anything like this myself, as it would turn out looking like a kindergartener's art project.
If you want to get it professionally done there are a lot of factors that can effect the total cost, but at a bare minimum expect $750-1000. Doing a ceramic coat requires a lot of pre-application labor in the washing, decontamination (chemical and physical), at least a one if not multi-stage paint correction, and then the application of the coating itself. Typically a 1-2 day at least time frame too.
A Google search of your area should turn up some results of local detailing shops or independant mobile detailers. Check for reviews and the detailer's social media to see what the quality of their work looks like.
There are some really good synthetic spray sealants you can apply at home that really only require a thoroughly cleaned car to apply and last 6-8 months. You'll have an upfront cost of $100 or so for some good decontamination and car wash stuff, and then $20-60 for a good sealant. Easily something you could do in a couple of hours without any worry of messing anything up.
There's a huge resource of channels on Youtube to get you started on basic wash techniques and methods to apply your sealant of choice. Apex Detail, Forensic Detailing, Car Cleaning Guru, FAB Automotive, Miranda Detailing, and Wilson Auto Detailing are all good channels to learn about products, techniques, and comparisons. Some are more product shill prone then others (Wilson Detailing is very much so at times), but the rest of the are either not at all or minimally so.
I can also understand not wanting to do it yourself and if you don't space or access to a hose. There are rinseless and waterless solutions that work very well, but they're harder to do if you're not comfortable or familiar with the techniques and procedures. Most people are happy to pay for professionals to do it, and you could also just have someone do a thorough cleaning inside and our, a one step correction, and sealant application for $200-300. Some places may be doing winter prep special packages in that price range.
I'm lucky enough to know somebody who was formerly a detailer for a local Ferrari dealership, and does work on the side, so I paid him to do it. Typically you would go through a detailing shop.
As Cormac noted, there's a fair amount of prep work that needs to be done - clay bar/polish to get to a clean surface before the product is applied. Not sure on the going rate these days.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
My brother does this professionally and it runs usually between $200-$600 depending on what you want done, and potential upcharges for rare cars or finicky paints.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
It's so ugly I thought it was a joke at first. The stats are great, but just....wow
https://www.tesla.com/cybertruck
Starts at 40k, top model has 500 mile range, 14k towing capacity, 2.9s 0-60, 100 cubic feet storage.
And it looks like what someone in 1950 would have thought a 2020 car would look like.
EDIT: The more I look at it the less ugly I think it looks. Gunna look weird as shit on the road though, super unique.
About the only real gripe I have is that the model with the 500-mile range is $70k. The next model down is $50k for a perfectly reasonable 300 mile range (pretty much the minimum range I'd want out of any vehicle) and AWD; don't really see the base model as an option because why bother with a truck that's only RWD? Not quite enough for me to buy it, but it would be damned tempting if that 500-mile range was on the $50k model.