Do you know if the connections to the rooms are live? If so, are any to rooms where you have networked devices? Currently in my home, I have a managed switch as my network backbone, and unmanaged switches in the living room and master bedroom to accommodate all the devices in each. If it's feasible to move the router or run a cable over to the rack, you could get a managed switch to get those ports live.
Do you know if the connections to the rooms are live? If so, are any to rooms where you have networked devices? Currently in my home, I have a managed switch as my network backbone, and unmanaged switches in the living room and master bedroom to accommodate all the devices in each. If it's feasible to move the router or run a cable over to the rack, you could get a managed switch to get those ports live.
Running a length of coax with a coupler in the middle is a simple way to move that modem, special if it's just from one side of a basement to the other.
There's a very complicated dance of finances and sanity going on for me at the moment. The punchline is the usual "avoid mixing property and family", but the problem is it's this side of impossible to convince my father that DIY renovating a 100 year old house with bad foundations (bricks with lime mortar on clay) is a waste of time and not saving any money.
There's a very complicated dance of finances and sanity going on for me at the moment. The punchline is the usual "avoid mixing property and family", but the problem is it's this side of impossible to convince my father that DIY renovating a 100 year old house with bad foundations (bricks with lime mortar on clay) is a waste of time and not saving any money.
Tell him if he thinks it can be done better DIY, then he should do it
Just ordered a Nest E thermostat. My heating system is an older single-stage hydronic system with baseboard radiators. Unfortunately, I only have two thermostat wires, R and W. Went with the Nest because it claims it can work without the C wire. Though, my research indicates that it's essentially a 50/50 gamble whether it can steal enough power to keep its batteries charged. Figure I can keep the old thermostat in the closet as a just in-case it fails out during the coldest, and then figure out how to DIY fish thermostat wiring through my walls (finished above and below, so not so simple.)
Simps, we had the Gen 1 Nest and it had a Mini-USB plug (not Micro). I'm assuming the E has a charging connection as well. So if it dies for whatever reason, you just need to plug it into the wall or a battery pack. Or top it off if there's a cold snap coming.
I thought with the Nest systems they basically come with a power pack you install on the furnace end of your system if you do not have a powered thermostat which in turn powers the Nest.
I could be wrong of course considering I do not have one.
My power company is having a massive sale today and had like a 50%+ off on some LED bulbs and smart thermostat so I grabbed the newest ecobee ($249/200->$99) and like 8 LED bulbs ($15->$2).
If any of you have national grid and are in the north east/NY you might want to check them out.
We are besieged! First rain of the season + the ruckus of moving out and moving in to this house has unleashed a plague of earwigs and spiders. Ok, it's like not that many but gross! I've been exterminating them as best I can, but I'll have to take a perimeter run when it dries out with some Ortho or something. Man I hate friggin' earwigs.
In my old house I had a fence that was absolutely infested with earwigs one year. I could go out and kick the fence and would seriously see no less than hundreds of them. It was fucking gross.
I learned a lot about earwigs in those days as I was essentially a one man earwig terminator. Honestly the most effective and cheap way to kill them is with soapy water as it coats their exoskeleton and suffocates them.
Just ordered a Nest E thermostat. My heating system is an older single-stage hydronic system with baseboard radiators. Unfortunately, I only have two thermostat wires, R and W. Went with the Nest because it claims it can work without the C wire. Though, my research indicates that it's essentially a 50/50 gamble whether it can steal enough power to keep its batteries charged. Figure I can keep the old thermostat in the closet as a just in-case it fails out during the coldest, and then figure out how to DIY fish thermostat wiring through my walls (finished above and below, so not so simple.)
If the wires move at all you could use a bunch of electrical tape to wrap new wires to the old and fish them through that way.
Just ordered a Nest E thermostat. My heating system is an older single-stage hydronic system with baseboard radiators. Unfortunately, I only have two thermostat wires, R and W. Went with the Nest because it claims it can work without the C wire. Though, my research indicates that it's essentially a 50/50 gamble whether it can steal enough power to keep its batteries charged. Figure I can keep the old thermostat in the closet as a just in-case it fails out during the coldest, and then figure out how to DIY fish thermostat wiring through my walls (finished above and below, so not so simple.)
If the wires move at all you could use a bunch of electrical tape to wrap new wires to the old and fish them through that way.
If someone stapled the wires, RIP.
Yeah, the wire was zip-tied to the conduit that feeds power to the boiler itself, then heads up into a finished ceiling. I should try to stick my phone up into that cavity and try get a picture inside and see if I can still see zip ties. If it's just in the unfinished closet or if it's behind the drywall too. I mean I'm not beyond ripping out some of the drywall ceiling in my basement, but I'd really rather not, especially if it works without.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
The wire having zip ties on it isn't a big deal. But if they're stapled to studs, they're staying put until you rip open sheetrock.
First rainstorm of the season survived (and monster 7 day storm no less). No leaks or weird runoff, so I'm feeling pretty good. Still gotta get up and clean out the gutters for realsies when it all dries, though.
Pest control and tree trimming scheduled. Now it's time to go to home depot and bed bath and beyond and just pretend I'm on some kind of game show that I definitely won't have to pay for later...ugh...yay?
Progress. A relatively large amount of money will disappear to capital gains tax, but the result will be I guess me and Bulgarian girl can demolish this house and build a new one with modern features like concrete foundations, actual cement in the brick mortar, and no random asbestos fibre cement panels on like, one-wall just to make it more expensive and dangerous to renovate.
Progress. A relatively large amount of money will disappear to capital gains tax, but the result will be I guess me and Bulgarian girl can demolish this house and build a new one with modern features like concrete foundations, actual cement in the brick mortar, and no random asbestos fibre cement panels on like, one-wall just to make it more expensive and dangerous to renovate.
the piece of mind you get from building new is pretty solid
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
What's the best way to deal with burying abandoned low voltage wiring in walls? Finally got around to tearing out the bedroom closet to renovate it. Finally got around to sawing through the hinges of this strange lockbox we never got a key to. Turns out it wasn't just some sort of lockbox, it was a control panel for some long abandoned security system. I don't even know where the sensors/zones might be. Battery backup was long dead. I'm not reading anything over .05v AC on any of the wires. Do I just cut everything to different lengths, and tape it all up and shove back inside the wall like I would do with abandoned telephone lines? At least on of the lines is marked at least a source from a 110v AC transformer, but that reads dead. However who the hell knows what switch or whatever (there's a lot of switches we have that we can't figure out what they do) would activate it.
Does anyone know of a corner tv-mount that can change height? I'm thinking about mounting a TV to an L shaped wall that is about 4 feet tall, if mounted in the corner I could easily elevate it to a comfortable height and put a small desk or corner media stand beneath it. I've always kind of just rigged things that look like shit because I lived in apartments, I'd like to do something classy(er) this time.
The other option is just getting a traditional corner entertainment cabinet and bolting the tv to the top of it using the little stand it comes with. My problem is that I have cats who will definitely knock the TV over if it's not secured to something.
Edit: The other option is mounting above the gas fireplace, I'm hesitant though. I'd have to get a mount that allows you to pull forward and lower the TV so it's at an appropriate height and I don't like the idea of wrenching on whatever securing device/screws would be going into a thin wall with a vent for a fireplace.
Does anyone know of a corner tv-mount that can change height? I'm thinking about mounting a TV to an L shaped wall that is about 4 feet tall, if mounted in the corner I could easily elevate it to a comfortable height and put a small desk or corner media stand beneath it. I've always kind of just rigged things that look like shit because I lived in apartments, I'd like to do something classy(er) this time.
The other option is just getting a traditional corner entertainment cabinet and bolting the tv to the top of it using the little stand it comes with. My problem is that I have cats who will definitely knock the TV over if it's not secured to something.
Edit: The other option is mounting above the gas fireplace, I'm hesitant though. I'd have to get a mount that allows you to pull forward and lower the TV so it's at an appropriate height and I don't like the idea of wrenching on whatever securing device/screws would be going into a thin wall with a vent for a fireplace.
I can't see a reason that it couldn't just be mounted to one of the walls and turned appropriately. I guess the biggest thing would be distance from the mounted location on the wall to the corner would have to work out just right. True corner mounts seem like they'd be easier to guarantee they're square, but there don't seem to be any that are height adjustable.
Depends on exactly what you mean by "change height". Just plugging in "corner tv wall mount" into Amazon will get you mounts galore, and some of them will let you tilt the TV up or down some degrees. I don't know if any of them will actually let you freely raise or lower though.
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
@Simpsonia you could take some pics and ask an electrician, but the sensor wires can likely be abandoned in place. You may need to spend a good day trying to ferret out the transformer or switching all the switches, one at a time, and checking for voltage
Does anyone know of a corner tv-mount that can change height? I'm thinking about mounting a TV to an L shaped wall that is about 4 feet tall, if mounted in the corner I could easily elevate it to a comfortable height and put a small desk or corner media stand beneath it. I've always kind of just rigged things that look like shit because I lived in apartments, I'd like to do something classy(er) this time.
The other option is just getting a traditional corner entertainment cabinet and bolting the tv to the top of it using the little stand it comes with. My problem is that I have cats who will definitely knock the TV over if it's not secured to something.
Edit: The other option is mounting above the gas fireplace, I'm hesitant though. I'd have to get a mount that allows you to pull forward and lower the TV so it's at an appropriate height and I don't like the idea of wrenching on whatever securing device/screws would be going into a thin wall with a vent for a fireplace.
Look for VESA arm mounts (and check what size your TV's VESA mount interface is.)
Edit: After looking at your corner, you've got a number of solutions there. You can mount an arm, but you could also mount a pole support there which a mount could be attached. Or you can get a console that has a mounting rail integrated that fits the space.
Edit: The other option is mounting above the gas fireplace, I'm hesitant though. I'd have to get a mount that allows you to pull forward and lower the TV so it's at an appropriate height and I don't like the idea of wrenching on whatever securing device/screws would be going into a thin wall with a vent for a fireplace.
What about a pole mount that you can hang from the ceiling, immediately in front of the wall above the fireplace? You'd probably want to get above that ceiling so you can brace it properly, but it's what I was considering doing at my old house. I wanted a TV above my fireplace, but it was a wall made of stones and I couldn't properly mount the TV to it.
Jesus that's a tough spot. If you are interested in going over the fireplace, though, you need this and this. These mounts are amazing.
That makes mantle mounting seem way more an option than the other kits I've seen. How far down does it drop when fully lowered?
I guess I'll have to pull off the face/grill of the fireplace when I get a chance and peer up it to see how the actual ventilation is oriented in that column.
dispatch.o on
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Jesus that's a tough spot. If you are interested in going over the fireplace, though, you need this and this. These mounts are amazing.
That makes mantle mounting seem way more an option than the other kits I've seen. How far down does it drop when fully lowered?
I guess I'll have to pull off the face/grill of the fireplace when I get a chance and peer up it to see how the actual ventilation is oriented in that column.
They call out 29" of travel, so almost two and a half feet. Enough to put it over most mantels and be able to pull the TV down to near eye level, but it depends on how high the mantel is obviously.
What's the best way to deal with burying abandoned low voltage wiring in walls? Finally got around to tearing out the bedroom closet to renovate it. Finally got around to sawing through the hinges of this strange lockbox we never got a key to. Turns out it wasn't just some sort of lockbox, it was a control panel for some long abandoned security system. I don't even know where the sensors/zones might be. Battery backup was long dead. I'm not reading anything over .05v AC on any of the wires. Do I just cut everything to different lengths, and tape it all up and shove back inside the wall like I would do with abandoned telephone lines? At least on of the lines is marked at least a source from a 110v AC transformer, but that reads dead. However who the hell knows what switch or whatever (there's a lot of switches we have that we can't figure out what they do) would activate it.
You can cut them to whatever length you want, but you should cap each individual wire if you don't know where it goes.
What's the best way to deal with burying abandoned low voltage wiring in walls? Finally got around to tearing out the bedroom closet to renovate it. Finally got around to sawing through the hinges of this strange lockbox we never got a key to. Turns out it wasn't just some sort of lockbox, it was a control panel for some long abandoned security system. I don't even know where the sensors/zones might be. Battery backup was long dead. I'm not reading anything over .05v AC on any of the wires. Do I just cut everything to different lengths, and tape it all up and shove back inside the wall like I would do with abandoned telephone lines? At least on of the lines is marked at least a source from a 110v AC transformer, but that reads dead. However who the hell knows what switch or whatever (there's a lot of switches we have that we can't figure out what they do) would activate it.
You can cut them to whatever length you want, but you should cap each individual wire if you don't know where it goes.
You typically don't need to cap telephone type low voltage wires, from everything I've read (also too small of a wire for any wire nut I've found). But after going to the hivemind at /r/homeimprovement a security system tech convinced me to install a recessed gang box and cap the wires that would go to a potential transformer. Which lead to me driving to Home Depot at 8am because the wife needed the car at 9.
On the plus side my oscillating multi-tool made the perfect hole for the new recessed box. On the downside, I found out (after burning through my first wood cutting blade) that I not only have wood lath, but metal mesh lath on my walls too. This means that the metal-finding stud-finder I had been looking at will not work and the only reliable way I have now is to drill pilot holes and fish around with a coat hanger to find one.
So if anyone asks 'should I buy a house or continue to rent?'. I will supply this little antidote.
Was finally a nice day to get all the rest of the leaves that the trees shit out before real winter sets in.
Got up on the roof to blow out all the gutters. First story goes well. Get 3/4 of the uppers story done, it's a ranch style home with a master bedroom addition built as the second story, and I had to use this little step stool to be able to reach the upper gutters.
Fast forward to one of the legs snapping on it, me slamming face first into the roof.
Then sliding down in slow 'mo and slipping off, luckily kinda grabbing the gutters to slow my fall. As I fall 12 feet onto my driveway. Landing pretty much fully on my right elbow.
Don't think it's broken, but fuck, I broke my leaf blower.
" I am a warrior, so that my son may be a merchant, so that his son may be a poet.”
― John Quincy Adams
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
edited December 2019
Stories like that are why I will never, ever get on my roof.
Posts
Running a length of coax with a coupler in the middle is a simple way to move that modem, special if it's just from one side of a basement to the other.
Why
Think of all the money you could be making losing, with a bitcoin mining operation an expensive space heater!
Tell him if he thinks it can be done better DIY, then he should do it
Legends of Runeterra: MNCdover #moc
Switch ID: MNC Dover SW-1154-3107-1051
Steam ID
Twitch Page
I could be wrong of course considering I do not have one.
If any of you have national grid and are in the north east/NY you might want to check them out.
https://marketplace.nationalgridus.com/
I learned a lot about earwigs in those days as I was essentially a one man earwig terminator. Honestly the most effective and cheap way to kill them is with soapy water as it coats their exoskeleton and suffocates them.
If the wires move at all you could use a bunch of electrical tape to wrap new wires to the old and fish them through that way.
If someone stapled the wires, RIP.
Yeah, the wire was zip-tied to the conduit that feeds power to the boiler itself, then heads up into a finished ceiling. I should try to stick my phone up into that cavity and try get a picture inside and see if I can still see zip ties. If it's just in the unfinished closet or if it's behind the drywall too. I mean I'm not beyond ripping out some of the drywall ceiling in my basement, but I'd really rather not, especially if it works without.
Pest control and tree trimming scheduled. Now it's time to go to home depot and bed bath and beyond and just pretend I'm on some kind of game show that I definitely won't have to pay for later...ugh...yay?
I just hope KFC is still open.
the piece of mind you get from building new is pretty solid
The other option is just getting a traditional corner entertainment cabinet and bolting the tv to the top of it using the little stand it comes with. My problem is that I have cats who will definitely knock the TV over if it's not secured to something.
image of corner
Edit: The other option is mounting above the gas fireplace, I'm hesitant though. I'd have to get a mount that allows you to pull forward and lower the TV so it's at an appropriate height and I don't like the idea of wrenching on whatever securing device/screws would be going into a thin wall with a vent for a fireplace.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=16125&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-3vgMyk5gIVD4TICh1FwwYAEAkYASABEgIJfvD_BwE
?
Look for VESA arm mounts (and check what size your TV's VESA mount interface is.)
Edit: After looking at your corner, you've got a number of solutions there. You can mount an arm, but you could also mount a pole support there which a mount could be attached. Or you can get a console that has a mounting rail integrated that fits the space.
What about a pole mount that you can hang from the ceiling, immediately in front of the wall above the fireplace? You'd probably want to get above that ceiling so you can brace it properly, but it's what I was considering doing at my old house. I wanted a TV above my fireplace, but it was a wall made of stones and I couldn't properly mount the TV to it.
Something like this.
That makes mantle mounting seem way more an option than the other kits I've seen. How far down does it drop when fully lowered?
I guess I'll have to pull off the face/grill of the fireplace when I get a chance and peer up it to see how the actual ventilation is oriented in that column.
They call out 29" of travel, so almost two and a half feet. Enough to put it over most mantels and be able to pull the TV down to near eye level, but it depends on how high the mantel is obviously.
You can cut them to whatever length you want, but you should cap each individual wire if you don't know where it goes.
You typically don't need to cap telephone type low voltage wires, from everything I've read (also too small of a wire for any wire nut I've found). But after going to the hivemind at /r/homeimprovement a security system tech convinced me to install a recessed gang box and cap the wires that would go to a potential transformer. Which lead to me driving to Home Depot at 8am because the wife needed the car at 9.
On the plus side my oscillating multi-tool made the perfect hole for the new recessed box. On the downside, I found out (after burning through my first wood cutting blade) that I not only have wood lath, but metal mesh lath on my walls too. This means that the metal-finding stud-finder I had been looking at will not work and the only reliable way I have now is to drill pilot holes and fish around with a coat hanger to find one.
Was finally a nice day to get all the rest of the leaves that the trees shit out before real winter sets in.
Got up on the roof to blow out all the gutters. First story goes well. Get 3/4 of the uppers story done, it's a ranch style home with a master bedroom addition built as the second story, and I had to use this little step stool to be able to reach the upper gutters.
Fast forward to one of the legs snapping on it, me slamming face first into the roof.
Then sliding down in slow 'mo and slipping off, luckily kinda grabbing the gutters to slow my fall. As I fall 12 feet onto my driveway. Landing pretty much fully on my right elbow.
Don't think it's broken, but fuck, I broke my leaf blower.
― John Quincy Adams