StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Does it look better to put basing material around the feet or glue the model to the basing material once it's dry? I'm gonna be using a bunch of the black crackle paint for my Skaven bases and I'm not sure which option will look better.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
crackle paint is not the most durable surface to glue a model to, I would either crackle around the mini or at least pin it if you are going to glue to the crackle.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
edited December 2019
These Slaanesh chariots are pretty fiddly to paint, but I finally got done with it. I wish the supplied base was even close to appropriately sized, but you can't have everything, I suppose.
The top rider is on a magnet so I can swap for a non-hero version as necessary (and old Sigvald there can go on a separate base for use as a Herald or Chaos Lord)
I'm probably gonna want at least one more exalted chariot doing at some point, and maybe a trio of regular seeker chariots, buuut I think I'll wait on starting up any of those, there's such a thing as too many exenterating saw blades, believe it or not.
Halos Nach Tariff on
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
crackle paint is not the most durable surface to glue a model to, I would either crackle around the mini or at least pin it if you are going to glue to the crackle.
I think pinning 80 clanrats and 80 plague monks would end up being way too tedious. Guess I'll do it around the feet.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
For completely unrelated reasons to @Mayday’s post I am starting to add some Alpha Legion to my collection
But since we’re here, gimme dat paint recipe @Mayday
crackle paint is not the most durable surface to glue a model to, I would either crackle around the mini or at least pin it if you are going to glue to the crackle.
I think pinning 80 clanrats and 80 plague monks would end up being way too tedious. Guess I'll do it around the feet.
You could crackle paint the bases, then varnish (which you need to do anyway, crackle paint flakes increadibly easily), and then glue the mini to the varnish?
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
crackle paint is not the most durable surface to glue a model to, I would either crackle around the mini or at least pin it if you are going to glue to the crackle.
I think pinning 80 clanrats and 80 plague monks would end up being way too tedious. Guess I'll do it around the feet.
You could crackle paint the bases, then varnish (which you need to do anyway, crackle paint flakes increadibly easily), and then glue the mini to the varnish?
Yea, I might give that a try. Gonna do some tests when I get home.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
crackle paint is not the most durable surface to glue a model to, I would either crackle around the mini or at least pin it if you are going to glue to the crackle.
I think pinning 80 clanrats and 80 plague monks would end up being way too tedious. Guess I'll do it around the feet.
You could crackle paint the bases, then varnish (which you need to do anyway, crackle paint flakes increadibly easily), and then glue the mini to the varnish?
this is what I did with my poxwalkers, I have 60 of them and need to re-glue at least 1 each time I play.
what I have started doing is placing a couple small plastic risers (yay finally a use for left over sprue) on the base that lift the model a couple of mm so the mini is not sunk into the base and yet still gives a plastic surface to weld to.
Too lazy to take better photos at the moment. It was good timing that I'm waiting on some specialty glue to arrive before continuing with tiny ship - I finished a commission~
Some D&D monster that's the end boss of a campaign or something? It's really weird, anyway. <_<
You bet it is - that's an atropal, one of my favorite big bads for settings grimdark or otherwise horror-tinged. It's essentially what happens when reality has a miscarriage and a god's destiny is thwarted so it's never 'born' and that potential omnipotence rots in the void...
These kinds of hobby paints are water-based, so don't have any volatile solvents to offend the nose. Whatever the scent of the pigments themselves are, you have to stick your nose in the pot to get it. Tamiya paints are alcohol based, but even so, you pretty much have to get your nose to the pot to smell anything.
I use old pill bottles for handles, they generally are a good enough diameter to do the job. You can weight the insides too if you dont want them tipping.
That's what I used to use, but the paint handles are so cheap and actually designed for the job. It's the difference between pounding a nail in with a hammer, or just improvising one.
These Slaanesh chariots are pretty fiddly to paint, but I finally got done with it. I wish the supplied base was even close to appropriately sized, but you can't have everything, I suppose.
The top rider is on a magnet so I can swap for a non-hero version as necessary (and old Sigvald there can go on a separate base for use as a Herald or Chaos Lord)
I'm probably gonna want at least one more exalted chariot doing at some point, and maybe a trio of regular seeker chariots, buuut I think I'll wait on starting up any of those, there's such a thing as too many exenterating saw blades, believe it or not.
This is amazing, but when did the followers of Slannesh take up farming?
I proxies a few slaanesh chariots in a game earlier this year and they were awesome, but I just can't handle how tiny and fiddly most slaanesh models are. I've broken arms of off four or five daemonettes just moving them on a game board.
I proxies a few slaanesh chariots in a game earlier this year and they were awesome, but I just can't handle how tiny and fiddly most slaanesh models are. I've broken arms of off four or five daemonettes just moving them on a game board.
The Khinerai I really have no idea how to put them away
A good breeze would carry them away
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
crackle paint is not the most durable surface to glue a model to, I would either crackle around the mini or at least pin it if you are going to glue to the crackle.
I think pinning 80 clanrats and 80 plague monks would end up being way too tedious. Guess I'll do it around the feet.
You could crackle paint the bases, then varnish (which you need to do anyway, crackle paint flakes increadibly easily), and then glue the mini to the varnish?
this is what I did with my poxwalkers, I have 60 of them and need to re-glue at least 1 each time I play.
what I have started doing is placing a couple small plastic risers (yay finally a use for left over sprue) on the base that lift the model a couple of mm so the mini is not sunk into the base and yet still gives a plastic surface to weld to.
Did you use plastic glue or super glue before using the risers?
I just slop texture paint on the base, and if it gets on the model then that’s between me and god because no one else is going to notice it.
I don't generally mind if there is texture stuff on the feet but for this I feel like it would be weird if it is around them like that. I feel like it would look better being on top.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
edited December 2019
This is hardly the most interesting thing posted recently, but I think I mentioned I had largely stalled out on the boat while waiting for some new glue to arrive. Well, it arrived about ten days back but I was just swamped. A couple of days off for Christmas vacation have given me enough willpower to finally sit back down and try to accomplish something. Wound up adding a few railing bits and building the first of the large bofors pits. Every time I actually put the pieces together of what I have so far, I feel good about this one~
[edit]
Ooof, looking at this this morning on my PC, that resize app on my phone was rough. Noted for the future. <_<
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited December 2019
Finished up the current detail pieces.
So how can I shade fluorescent colors? Water down a wash so it really only builds up in the recesses or use a darker but similar fluorescent color to shade?
Or maybe I should use normal acrylic colors for the base coat and then highlight with a matching fluorescent?
This is for my Skaven.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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WACriminalDying Is Easy, Young ManLiving Is HarderRegistered Userregular
edited December 2019
So my parents gave me a $50 Amazon card for Christmas. We use Amazon a lot for necessities, so my partner and I agreed I would just add the gift card balance to our shared account and then I could spend $50 wherever I wanted.
As you may have guessed based on the thread we're in, I'm gonna get some painting stuff, because I've found it REALLY relaxing at work. For starters, I need to get a #2 flat brush because the starter kit Amazon sent me had two round brushes instead of 1 flat+1 round. I'm also getting some brush-on white primer because I've got some metal minis from a board game that I'd like to try painting (and also that hedgehog warrior mini I was looking at is metal, so I'll need the primer then). That leaves me with roughly $40 if I shop at Reaper. I don't know if I need to buy any more miniatures at the moment, as I'm still working on the 3 from the starter set and I've got the ones from my board game after that. Then if I shop at Reaper I apparently get a free mini for spending more than $40? Anyway, I'm really interested in expanding my color collection, but I'm looking for advice.
1) Should I be buying any other brushes? My rounds are #0 and #2, and with the #2 flat I feel like I've got what I need until/unless I start working with larger figures, at which point I might buy a bigger flat to cover large areas more quickly.
2) Should I be buying any other accessories/supplies like the primer?
3) I currently have the following Reaper-brand colors:
Pure Black, Mountain Stone, Dragon White
Naga Green, Dragon Blue, Candlelight Yellow
Harvest Brown, Leather Brown, Desert Sand
Polished Silver, Blade Steel
Which means that I definitely need to pick up some representatives from the following categories: Red, Orange, Purple, Gold Metallic, Copper Metallic, Light Fleshtone (I think I can approximate darker fleshtones with what I've got)
Are there any especially good/bad colors I should be aware of? I'm currently looking at the following set:
Heraldic Red
Lava Orange
Clear Purple
New Gold
Fair Skin
Gunmetal Blue
In particular, I'm not sure which is the most versatile gold or copper shade to get. I lean towards New Gold, but is it easy to darken/brown-ify it to create a more subtle tone? For copper and bronze, I just have no idea.
Should I be getting another green? A different red? An aqua color? The metallic black? Rose gold looks fun, but how often will I actually use it? Should I be shopping at a different site entirely?
I have visions of myself in the future with shelves of paint bottles so I can easily get to the perfect shade for a project, but at the moment I mainly need to fill in gaps.
EDIT: Also I have a friend who tells me he paints his minis with Apple Barrel paint. The internet seems mixed on whether that's a good idea or not. It would definitely be cheaper, though, so does anyone here have experience with that?
WACriminal on
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
So my parents gave me a $50 Amazon card for Christmas. We use Amazon a lot for necessities, so my partner and I agreed I would just add the gift card balance to our shared account and then I could spend $50 wherever I wanted.
As you may have guessed based on the thread we're in, I'm gonna get some painting stuff, because I've found it REALLY relaxing at work. For starters, I need to get a #2 flat brush because the starter kit Amazon sent me had two round brushes instead of 1 flat+1 round. I'm also getting some brush-on white primer because I've got some metal minis from a board game that I'd like to try painting (and also that hedgehog warrior mini I was looking at is metal, so I'll need the primer then). That leaves me with roughly $40 if I shop at Reaper. I don't know if I need to buy any more miniatures at the moment, as I'm still working on the 3 from the starter set and I've got the ones from my board game after that. Then if I shop at Reaper I apparently get a free mini for spending more than $40? Anyway, I'm really interested in expanding my color collection, but I'm looking for advice.
1) Should I be buying any other brushes? My rounds are #0 and #2, and with the #2 flat I feel like I've got what I need until/unless I start working with larger figures, at which point I might buy a bigger flat to cover large areas more quickly.
2) Should I be buying any other accessories/supplies like the primer?
3) I currently have the following Reaper-brand colors:
Pure Black, Mountain Stone, Dragon White
Naga Green, Dragon Blue, Candlelight Yellow
Harvest Brown, Leather Brown, Desert Sand
Polished Silver, Blade Steel
Which means that I definitely need to pick up some representatives from the following categories: Red, Orange, Purple, Gold Metallic, Copper Metallic, Light Fleshtone (I think I can approximate darker fleshtones with what I've got)
Are there any especially good/bad colors I should be aware of? I'm currently looking at the following set:
Heraldic Red
Lava Orange
Clear Purple
New Gold
Fair Skin
Gunmetal Blue
In particular, I'm not sure which is the most versatile gold or copper shade to get. I lean towards New Gold, but is it easy to darken/brown-ify it to create a more subtle tone? For copper and bronze, I just have no idea.
Should I be getting another green? A different red? An aqua color? The metallic black? Rose gold looks fun, but how often will I actually use it? Should I be shopping at a different site entirely?
I have visions of myself in the future with shelves of paint bottles so I can easily get to the perfect shade for a project, but at the moment I mainly need to fill in gaps.
EDIT: Also I have a friend who tells me he paints his minis with Apple Barrel paint. The internet seems mixed on whether that's a good idea or not. It would definitely be cheaper, though, so does anyone here have experience with that?
For filling gaps I'd recommend branching out to other brands. Most have really nice paint sets to cover certain things. Scale 75 sells a wide variety of sets for painting metallics, flesh, vehicles, clothes l, etc.
I'm not sure if vallejo has paint sets but they are really good paints. Even if they say airbrush you can easily brush paint with them.
For darkening gold it is very easy with a good shade wash. I've only ever used GW shade wash and agrax earth shade is crazy good with gold. Or reikland flesh shade is also nice. Or you can also give the gold a nice tint using a purple shade wash.
The gold on this was retributor gold that I then shaded using agrax.
For apple barrel paints, after google searching it looks like the only real thing to consider is the pigmentation. It looks like acrylic canvas paints have less pigmentation which means more layers which can cause the paint to create a texture while acrylic mini payments are more pigmented. Could be totally wrong though but that is what I've been seeing.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Trucking along with my piggy boys. This guy was a blast to pick out bits for.
Base is original metal Butcher with grafted on plastic ogre arms, head is greenstuffed ogre bellower head, and the kiddie-sack (hobbits?) is from the gargant/giant kit.
Vallejo burnt iron is a one-stop shop for dirty metal/steel. It's easily my favorite metallic paint.
If you get the airbrush version of it, it's already perfectly thinned for brush use.
Also, a lot of miniature work is small detail work, but you don't necessarily need small brushes. You can get a lot done with bigger brushes that have really small tips. My absolute favorite are my Winsor & Newton kolinsky sable brushes. You can get various sizes on ebay for really good prices.
Pin washing or line paneling or whatever you want to call it
The sad thing about my brushes some did not make it though the years.
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
Hey, does anyone have any insights into painting copper?
I'm doing up some Iron Golem for my sister and she wants their armour done in oxidised copper instead of the studio red scheme, I've got them primed with Boltgun Metal, and I'm thinking to start I wanna hit them with a brown wash coat or two, then a light drybrush of Hashut Copper, pick out any details with Stormhost Silver, then go back to start oxidising any suitable areas, has anyone got any better tips or ways of doing that?
Hey, does anyone have any insights into painting copper?
I'm doing up some Iron Golem for my sister and she wants their armour done in oxidised copper instead of the studio red scheme, I've got them primed with Boltgun Metal, and I'm thinking to start I wanna hit them with a brown wash coat or two, then a light drybrush of Hashut Copper, pick out any details with Stormhost Silver, then go back to start oxidising any suitable areas, has anyone got any better tips or ways of doing that?
A brass in the harlequin book is
Brass scorpion wash reikland fleshshadehightlight with sycorax bronze and a find highlight of runefang for a darker bronze start with warplock and do the previous
The Necron Overlord they did he got a bright copper on it's cape https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUaUTcWasMQ
At about at 5.50 with Screaming Bell-Hasupt Copper-reikland as a recessed shade- edge highlight with runefang
I was asking previously about poured resin bases so I can make a swamp base... it was for this guy that I'm calling a work in progress. I think I'm done with paints though...
I've ordered resin so I can pour a swampy base for him with a space marine drowning or something...
I'm particularly happy with how gross his toenails are
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I wasn't sure if I wanted to pick up the Beastgrave set for Warhammer Underworlds, I have the previous two boxes and it's a fun game, but I don't really play enough to justify it, fortunately for me I wound up with a copy as a birthday/christmas gift, so the decision is taken out of my hands! Maybe I'll try and hit up some actual tournies/events with this new season rather than just playing at home (I am very excited for the Daughters of Khaine warband which we know is coming!) Here are the minis from the set all painted up and ready to go:
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Do you guys have any recommendations for a good drybrush? I feel like my current options (a bunch of beat-up old brushes of various shapes) are getting in the way of some of my smaller-scale drybrush work, and would like something that can be a bit more targeted when working on something only 2" tall.
I've tried a bunch of artist grade brushes for drybrushing and I keep coming back to the Large/Med/Small games-workshop drybrushes as working the best for doing drybrushed edge highlights.
The only alternative I've found that works really well is Elf brand makeup brushes (Canadian brand I think... they're just very cheap makeup brushes). I've got a couple that are very small and round that do an amazing job on natural surfaces like daemon skin or animal fur. They're less effective for things like space marine armor or anything with a sharp edge, but for skin/flesh/hide they give an incredibly natural highlight (irony of ironies with them being makeup brushes). The only downside with them is they shed pigment very quickly compared to regular drybrushes so you have to dab and wipe them a lot more frequently, which can be annoying.
Posts
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
The top rider is on a magnet so I can swap for a non-hero version as necessary (and old Sigvald there can go on a separate base for use as a Herald or Chaos Lord)
I'm probably gonna want at least one more exalted chariot doing at some point, and maybe a trio of regular seeker chariots, buuut I think I'll wait on starting up any of those, there's such a thing as too many exenterating saw blades, believe it or not.
I think pinning 80 clanrats and 80 plague monks would end up being way too tedious. Guess I'll do it around the feet.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
But since we’re here, gimme dat paint recipe @Mayday
You could crackle paint the bases, then varnish (which you need to do anyway, crackle paint flakes increadibly easily), and then glue the mini to the varnish?
Yea, I might give that a try. Gonna do some tests when I get home.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
this is what I did with my poxwalkers, I have 60 of them and need to re-glue at least 1 each time I play.
what I have started doing is placing a couple small plastic risers (yay finally a use for left over sprue) on the base that lift the model a couple of mm so the mini is not sunk into the base and yet still gives a plastic surface to weld to.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
You bet it is - that's an atropal, one of my favorite big bads for settings grimdark or otherwise horror-tinged. It's essentially what happens when reality has a miscarriage and a god's destiny is thwarted so it's never 'born' and that potential omnipotence rots in the void...
These kinds of hobby paints are water-based, so don't have any volatile solvents to offend the nose. Whatever the scent of the pigments themselves are, you have to stick your nose in the pot to get it. Tamiya paints are alcohol based, but even so, you pretty much have to get your nose to the pot to smell anything.
That's what I used to use, but the paint handles are so cheap and actually designed for the job. It's the difference between pounding a nail in with a hammer, or just improvising one.
Those would be amazing for Tzeentch horrors of any color.
This is amazing, but when did the followers of Slannesh take up farming?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
The Khinerai I really have no idea how to put them away
A good breeze would carry them away
Ah, no, see, common mistake, you're thinking of the very different (and definitely not just the same kit turned sideways), the Hellflayer of Slaanesh:
The exalted chariot is more of a sexy lawnmower.
Did you use plastic glue or super glue before using the risers?
I don't generally mind if there is texture stuff on the feet but for this I feel like it would be weird if it is around them like that. I feel like it would look better being on top.
Basically doing this.
https://youtu.be/cmat5LQoP-c
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
so long as you apply the texture paint carefully and don't cover the riser you can glue the mini on after the base is completed.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
[edit]
Ooof, looking at this this morning on my PC, that resize app on my phone was rough. Noted for the future. <_<
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
So how can I shade fluorescent colors? Water down a wash so it really only builds up in the recesses or use a darker but similar fluorescent color to shade?
Or maybe I should use normal acrylic colors for the base coat and then highlight with a matching fluorescent?
This is for my Skaven.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
As you may have guessed based on the thread we're in, I'm gonna get some painting stuff, because I've found it REALLY relaxing at work. For starters, I need to get a #2 flat brush because the starter kit Amazon sent me had two round brushes instead of 1 flat+1 round. I'm also getting some brush-on white primer because I've got some metal minis from a board game that I'd like to try painting (and also that hedgehog warrior mini I was looking at is metal, so I'll need the primer then). That leaves me with roughly $40 if I shop at Reaper. I don't know if I need to buy any more miniatures at the moment, as I'm still working on the 3 from the starter set and I've got the ones from my board game after that. Then if I shop at Reaper I apparently get a free mini for spending more than $40? Anyway, I'm really interested in expanding my color collection, but I'm looking for advice.
1) Should I be buying any other brushes? My rounds are #0 and #2, and with the #2 flat I feel like I've got what I need until/unless I start working with larger figures, at which point I might buy a bigger flat to cover large areas more quickly.
2) Should I be buying any other accessories/supplies like the primer?
3) I currently have the following Reaper-brand colors:
Naga Green, Dragon Blue, Candlelight Yellow
Harvest Brown, Leather Brown, Desert Sand
Polished Silver, Blade Steel
Are there any especially good/bad colors I should be aware of? I'm currently looking at the following set:
Lava Orange
Clear Purple
New Gold
Fair Skin
Gunmetal Blue
Should I be getting another green? A different red? An aqua color? The metallic black? Rose gold looks fun, but how often will I actually use it? Should I be shopping at a different site entirely?
I have visions of myself in the future with shelves of paint bottles so I can easily get to the perfect shade for a project, but at the moment I mainly need to fill in gaps.
EDIT: Also I have a friend who tells me he paints his minis with Apple Barrel paint. The internet seems mixed on whether that's a good idea or not. It would definitely be cheaper, though, so does anyone here have experience with that?
For filling gaps I'd recommend branching out to other brands. Most have really nice paint sets to cover certain things. Scale 75 sells a wide variety of sets for painting metallics, flesh, vehicles, clothes l, etc.
I'm not sure if vallejo has paint sets but they are really good paints. Even if they say airbrush you can easily brush paint with them.
For darkening gold it is very easy with a good shade wash. I've only ever used GW shade wash and agrax earth shade is crazy good with gold. Or reikland flesh shade is also nice. Or you can also give the gold a nice tint using a purple shade wash.
The gold on this was retributor gold that I then shaded using agrax.
For apple barrel paints, after google searching it looks like the only real thing to consider is the pigmentation. It looks like acrylic canvas paints have less pigmentation which means more layers which can cause the paint to create a texture while acrylic mini payments are more pigmented. Could be totally wrong though but that is what I've been seeing.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Base is original metal Butcher with grafted on plastic ogre arms, head is greenstuffed ogre bellower head, and the kiddie-sack (hobbits?) is from the gargant/giant kit.
Vallejo burnt iron is a one-stop shop for dirty metal/steel. It's easily my favorite metallic paint.
If you get the airbrush version of it, it's already perfectly thinned for brush use.
Also, a lot of miniature work is small detail work, but you don't necessarily need small brushes. You can get a lot done with bigger brushes that have really small tips. My absolute favorite are my Winsor & Newton kolinsky sable brushes. You can get various sizes on ebay for really good prices.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of ink paints? Scale 75 has these inktensity paints but I'm not sure if I should buy any or not.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The sad thing about my brushes some did not make it though the years.
I'm doing up some Iron Golem for my sister and she wants their armour done in oxidised copper instead of the studio red scheme, I've got them primed with Boltgun Metal, and I'm thinking to start I wanna hit them with a brown wash coat or two, then a light drybrush of Hashut Copper, pick out any details with Stormhost Silver, then go back to start oxidising any suitable areas, has anyone got any better tips or ways of doing that?
A brass in the harlequin book is
Brass scorpion wash reikland fleshshadehightlight with sycorax bronze and a find highlight of runefang for a darker bronze start with warplock and do the previous
The Necron Overlord they did he got a bright copper on it's cape
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUaUTcWasMQ
At about at 5.50 with Screaming Bell-Hasupt Copper-reikland as a recessed shade- edge highlight with runefang
Makes me want to do a full diorama
I have seen people do snow globes
The carving fork hand is ironic and perfect... that's a fantastic mini.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yea, one thick coat finally got to him.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've ordered resin so I can pour a swampy base for him with a space marine drowning or something...
I'm particularly happy with how gross his toenails are
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I saw on Facebook they were looking for social media managers. So I am now curious.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The only alternative I've found that works really well is Elf brand makeup brushes (Canadian brand I think... they're just very cheap makeup brushes). I've got a couple that are very small and round that do an amazing job on natural surfaces like daemon skin or animal fur. They're less effective for things like space marine armor or anything with a sharp edge, but for skin/flesh/hide they give an incredibly natural highlight (irony of ironies with them being makeup brushes). The only downside with them is they shed pigment very quickly compared to regular drybrushes so you have to dab and wipe them a lot more frequently, which can be annoying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6