that is a lovely green, nice change from the Olive Drab
Thanks! I was never interested in Plague Marines before, but that art panel (reprinted in KT:Commanders) really caught my eye, and suddenly all the Blight Guard models I’d been ignoring since I bought Dark Imperium a few years back jumped to the top of my queue.
I primed white, then airbrushed Sybarite, followed by a 1:2 mix of Biel-tan green: Lahmian Medium. Healthy dry brush of Hellion green (Gauss Blaster Green is the layer version) and a final glaze of 1:4 hex wraith flame:Lahmian Medium.
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
+1
Golden YakBurnished BovineThe sunny beaches of CanadaRegistered Userregular
Did a bunch more 3D printing, developing ways to make modular variants.
All my test prints have given me quite the army of horrible spooky body-horror creatures.
Sometime this month I want to try more humanoid characters with modular equipment and weapons.
Ok you folks are all amazing at this. I got the itch again and I painted up a few orcs today. Nothing special. And I am having a HELL of a time with facial features on these guys (they are Reaper minis are are pretty small in the face) don't know if I just don't have the skill yet or if I need a smaller/finer brush.
Just a few questions for someone whos painted maybe like 10 minis ever. What do you guys use as a work surface and what do you use for pallets? I have been putting news paper down and tossing it out for a work surface, but that feel kind of wasteful. Similarly, I have been using those plastic art pallets from the craft store but after like 2 uses are they useless and gotta get thrown out. I've seen people talking online about home made wet pallets, and I have seen those pallet books that they have at games workshop (which I assume is similar to this at my local craft store?) but I wanted to know what you guys recommend using. I'll post pictures of my like 4 color orcs tomorrow for you all, nothing fancy but I think they turned out pretty good.
Ok you folks are all amazing at this. I got the itch again and I painted up a few orcs today. Nothing special. And I am having a HELL of a time with facial features on these guys (they are Reaper minis are are pretty small in the face) don't know if I just don't have the skill yet or if I need a smaller/finer brush.
Just a few questions for someone whos painted maybe like 10 minis ever. What do you guys use as a work surface and what do you use for pallets? I have been putting news paper down and tossing it out for a work surface, but that feel kind of wasteful. Similarly, I have been using those plastic art pallets from the craft store but after like 2 uses are they useless and gotta get thrown out. I've seen people talking online about home made wet pallets, and I have seen those pallet books that they have at games workshop (which I assume is similar to this at my local craft store?) but I wanted to know what you guys recommend using. I'll post pictures of my like 4 color orcs tomorrow for you all, nothing fancy but I think they turned out pretty good.
I use cardboard from my amazon boxes, they last multiple uses easily.
I'm not sure why you are throwing the plastic pallets out. just keep putting more paint on top of the dried paint to work with? A spare/waste piece of tile works, but I recommend getting a wet palette if you are going to start putting in time. They are cheap (as is the paper to use with them), and when you close them up they keep paint good for days so you can come back to your project. You can make one yourself, but smaller ones are really affordable.In the end I guess they are just a plastic box with a spounge in them. GW can make quality products, but they are way overpriced. You can get a decent wet palette for like $10.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited January 2020
A bunch of people in the Skaven page I'm in on FB have told me to leave the wooden beams on the Gnawholes off and like I kinda want to but I also kind of want to try and rig each beam going over the hole to be rigged with a UV LED diode so I can light them up when I want to. I need to do some testing and see how I might pull that off but I think I can do it.
For your criticism I submit this Plague Marine test model:
The intent is to reproduce the color scheme found in the cover art of Strike Team, and I’m mostly happy with the results.
I wanted the organic mutation parts to look like slimy maggot skin and the horn to look like yellowed nails, but I don’t think I achieved my vision. I’d like a more dynamic horn, maybe going from brown to ivory and then glazed in yellow. I’d also like the fleshy parts to stand out a bit more, maybe painting them an angry inflamed skin? I’m open to suggestions.
I really like that green, it looks very good.
For the guts depending on how much you want them to stand out my brother usually paints them fleshy and then covers them in blood for the blood god or nurgle's rot to make them look extra nurgely. Just not sure how gross you want to get the gross bois.
Alternate color Death Guard are my favorite. When season 3 of Space Marine Heroes gets to the US I plan on buying some and trying some cool color schemes with them.
Alright, not the best but for my like 6th-9th paints not the worst.
[/spolier]
Those Orcs look good. I like how the blood on the sword looks.
As far as your other post about painting faces and what to use for painting. A good wet pallet is fantastic. A home made one is literally as easy as getting a small Tupperware container, some folded up paper towel to hold the water and a sheet of parchment baking paper to put on top and smear paint onto.
I did eventually upgrade to a brand wet pallet and it has been noticeably better but the home made version always did me well. I also use a booth I bought for airbrushing as my primary paint surface and if I'm not using that I'll use cardboard.
For painting faces I 100% recommend contrast paints from GW. I'm lazy as fuck when it comes to faces. I'm honestly lazy as fuck when it comes to any small details so I try to cut as many corners as I can. I basically only paint bone with skeleton horde contrast and rocks with basilicanum grey.
If you do want to get that real nice classic paint method look on the faces then I recommend giving some of the Warhammer TV painting tutorials a watch. They are really good about going into detail for painting stuff and they have an absurd amount of videos that are really useful.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I actually grabbed 2 of the Contrast paints this past weekend. The wife and I were up on the other side of Chicago and swung by the GamesWorkshop store in Palatine, Illinois. They had a good selection and the dude was super helpful and friendly (oddly enough he use to run the Orland Park location and has helped me several times in the past). He recommended I give the contract paints a try.
Also I guess the one closest to me in Orland Park is the #1 store in the nation. I know some people prefer Valjaro paints or the P3 paints but I've really liked all my Citadel paints and I enjoy being able to see them in person at a store to pick my colors as opposed to buying them online.
A bunch of people in the Skaven page I'm in on FB have told me to leave the wooden beams on the Gnawholes off and like I kinda want to but I also kind of want to try and rig each beam going over the hole to be rigged with a UV LED diode so I can light them up when I want to. I need to do some testing and see how I might pull that off but I think I can do it.
Leave them in. On top of the lighting potential, the concept that these inter-dimensional magic wormholes bored through the aether of the cosmos by ruinous sorcery are all held up with rickety wooden support beams is hilariously Skaven.
Oh hey another of the half million question I have for all of you. Its too cold to spray prime, so I got some Liqutex Professional grade Gesso, black and white. I did 2 parts Gesso to 1 part water more or less, but it was really thin. Do you guys thin your Gesso?
I grab an alchohol based primer from vallejo and put it straight on (you cant really thin it with water, you'd need actual thinner). The black usually comes out good but the white comes out really streaky and I am questioning if using the white is worth the hassle, I'm about to run some tests using contrast paints and im crossing my fingers there.
If you are painting reaper bones material(which is what I think I see above), you don't have to prime at all. For better results, wash the minis to make sure you get rid of all the mold release stuff on them or your paints can go on like super thinned water color and get splotchy. Putting on a really thick layer of primer will wreck the details of the mini if you aren't careful, and contrast paints can be thick and are meant to go on thick. A lot of this hobby is trial and error sometimes, and learning when to do the thing vs not do the thing for a specific effect.
edit: one of the tests im going to do this week is contrast on bones/on primed bones/ on base coated bones&primed base coated bones, I'll try to post the results but it sounds like you are getting to painting faster than I.
Oh hey another of the half million question I have for all of you. Its too cold to spray prime, so I got some Liqutex Professional grade Gesso, black and white. I did 2 parts Gesso to 1 part water more or less, but it was really thin. Do you guys thin your Gesso?
Depends on the mini and the paint you can hand prime
I don't really use gesso on minis
I grab an alchohol based primer from vallejo and put it straight on (you cant really thin it with water, you'd need actual thinner). The black usually comes out good but the white comes out really streaky and I am questioning if using the white is worth the hassle, I'm about to run some tests using contrast paints and im crossing my fingers there.
If you are painting reaper bones material(which is what I think I see above), you don't have to prime at all. For better results, wash the minis to make sure you get rid of all the mold release stuff on them or your paints can go on like super thinned water color and get splotchy. Putting on a really thick layer of primer will wreck the details of the mini if you aren't careful, and contrast paints can be thick and are meant to go on thick. A lot of this hobby is trial and error sometimes, and learning when to do the thing vs not do the thing for a specific effect.
edit: one of the tests im going to do this week is contrast on bones/on primed bones/ on base coated bones&primed base coated bones, I'll try to post the results but it sounds like you are getting to painting faster than I.
Vallejo grey primer is super close to white, with better coverage, and is maybe a couple shades lighter than the GW grey contrast primer, but works just as well for cooler tones.
I've had a few people tell me you should still prine the reaper and "preprimed" D&D minis. And I saw some people saying gesso is good for a paint on primer. Guess we'll see how they all turn out. Those guys all had a thin layer of black gesso.
I've had a few people tell me you should still prine the reaper and "preprimed" D&D minis. And I saw some people saying gesso is good for a paint on primer. Guess we'll see how they all turn out. Those guys all had a thin layer of black gesso.
I got at Target for some odd reason they had the Aasimar fighters Nolzur's mini I have yet to paint it as it's been too cold. It looks primed but I am still very curious about them
+1
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
A bunch of people in the Skaven page I'm in on FB have told me to leave the wooden beams on the Gnawholes off and like I kinda want to but I also kind of want to try and rig each beam going over the hole to be rigged with a UV LED diode so I can light them up when I want to. I need to do some testing and see how I might pull that off but I think I can do it.
Leave them in. On top of the lighting potential, the concept that these inter-dimensional magic wormholes bored through the aether of the cosmos by ruinous sorcery are all held up with rickety wooden support beams is hilariously Skaven.
..."That's so Skaven!" must be a thing.
Yea, it feels very in theme. I just need to clip out a set and try to figure out how I'll put in the lights. I might try to bore out a channel and then cover it with green stuff once the wires are in.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Still I am now very curious how I can do the veiled path in contrast paint. Also what black is Corvus Black? A darker black than Chaos? Or Darker than Abaddon or somewhere in-between?
+2
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I ordered the last set of colorshift paints from green stuff world on Friday to complete the set and they haven't shipped them yet. Usually they are so fast. I hope my email about their white fluorescent paint basically being chalk isn't messing things up.
I'm still unsure what to do as far as painting my colorshifed Tau. I should probably focus on finishing the Gnawholes but I keep thinking about my poor Tau that I haven't touched in months.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Corvus Black is really dark neutral gray. It is intended to give a starting point for black that still allows for shading.
I was looking at it to do the proto black templars. I also had an idea to do a few of them in a different way.
Since I am making my imperial first Horus Heresy force proto black templars I am going to do half? or so still in the yellow armor most in the black armor yellow pauldrons and helm
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
After trying to take some pictures of my Tau that I've used colorshift paints on I've decided that I very much do not like how they look which sucks because it is a pretty decent quantity of painted up minis.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.
Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.
GW paints are definitely fine. I think it mostly comes down to what color you want and how you want it to dry. I have GW classic and contrast paints, vallejo game air and metallic, I have scale 75 paints and inks, and I have the green stuff world colorshift and fluorescent paints.
Just depends on what you want to do and which brand will give you the desired color in the end.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Sticking with Citadel paints is going to make following their guides and videos easier if you're doing that. Vallejo are slightly better value for money, and the model air mettalics are fantastic, but there's no need to move on from GW paints if you're starting out
So when I dove back into the hobby a couple years back, I swore by reaper paints, you could get a ton for very little and they worked(and dropper bottles were a plus). But man are they chalky in comparison to GW's satin finish. I still think they have their uses, but stay away from their metallics, they just tend to do bad things for some reason when I try to do anything with them.
+1
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.
GW paints are outstanding. The pots are shit. Coat d' Arms and P3 paints are also outstanding and come in good pots (CtD, P3 & GW paints are all produced by HMG in the UK). CtD is actually the old Citadel line with updated names in most cases, eg: Boltgun Metal = Gun Metal.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I decided to try and clean off the Tau. Gonna have them sit in a bath of simple green, I might also by a sonic cleaner. I just want to clean them off and start over.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Working on my pork chops (ironguts). I saw an ogre army converted to be the Monty Python Knights, and ever since I always loved the idea of mock nobility.
Because of a piece seller doing an odd deal I had to get 3 of Icepelt last year. So my brother was building Wolf guard from leftover parts . I decided to make a primaris wolf guard for him
I jsut need to fix some of the joints with green stuff when it gets warmer
+3
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The Tau are coming surprisingly clean after only 24 hours in simple green.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Thanks! I was never interested in Plague Marines before, but that art panel (reprinted in KT:Commanders) really caught my eye, and suddenly all the Blight Guard models I’d been ignoring since I bought Dark Imperium a few years back jumped to the top of my queue.
I primed white, then airbrushed Sybarite, followed by a 1:2 mix of Biel-tan green: Lahmian Medium. Healthy dry brush of Hellion green (Gauss Blaster Green is the layer version) and a final glaze of 1:4 hex wraith flame:Lahmian Medium.
All my test prints have given me quite the army of horrible spooky body-horror creatures.
Sometime this month I want to try more humanoid characters with modular equipment and weapons.
This is shit. I hate this. Why is this so bad. Wait now it's not terrible. I kind of like this! Next model: start all over again.
Just a few questions for someone whos painted maybe like 10 minis ever. What do you guys use as a work surface and what do you use for pallets? I have been putting news paper down and tossing it out for a work surface, but that feel kind of wasteful. Similarly, I have been using those plastic art pallets from the craft store but after like 2 uses are they useless and gotta get thrown out. I've seen people talking online about home made wet pallets, and I have seen those pallet books that they have at games workshop (which I assume is similar to this at my local craft store?) but I wanted to know what you guys recommend using. I'll post pictures of my like 4 color orcs tomorrow for you all, nothing fancy but I think they turned out pretty good.
"Perfect is the enemy of good"
also that is a real clean looking job
I use cardboard from my amazon boxes, they last multiple uses easily.
I'm not sure why you are throwing the plastic pallets out. just keep putting more paint on top of the dried paint to work with? A spare/waste piece of tile works, but I recommend getting a wet palette if you are going to start putting in time. They are cheap (as is the paper to use with them), and when you close them up they keep paint good for days so you can come back to your project. You can make one yourself, but smaller ones are really affordable.In the end I guess they are just a plastic box with a spounge in them. GW can make quality products, but they are way overpriced. You can get a decent wet palette for like $10.
I really like that green, it looks very good.
For the guts depending on how much you want them to stand out my brother usually paints them fleshy and then covers them in blood for the blood god or nurgle's rot to make them look extra nurgely. Just not sure how gross you want to get the gross bois.
Alternate color Death Guard are my favorite. When season 3 of Space Marine Heroes gets to the US I plan on buying some and trying some cool color schemes with them.
I really like this blue. I really need to start painting my Dreadnoughts. I have so many of them.
Those Orcs look good. I like how the blood on the sword looks.
As far as your other post about painting faces and what to use for painting. A good wet pallet is fantastic. A home made one is literally as easy as getting a small Tupperware container, some folded up paper towel to hold the water and a sheet of parchment baking paper to put on top and smear paint onto.
I did eventually upgrade to a brand wet pallet and it has been noticeably better but the home made version always did me well. I also use a booth I bought for airbrushing as my primary paint surface and if I'm not using that I'll use cardboard.
For painting faces I 100% recommend contrast paints from GW. I'm lazy as fuck when it comes to faces. I'm honestly lazy as fuck when it comes to any small details so I try to cut as many corners as I can. I basically only paint bone with skeleton horde contrast and rocks with basilicanum grey.
If you do want to get that real nice classic paint method look on the faces then I recommend giving some of the Warhammer TV painting tutorials a watch. They are really good about going into detail for painting stuff and they have an absurd amount of videos that are really useful.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
No, no, you got it wrong. Chaos, xenos and heretics are the enemies of good.
Also I guess the one closest to me in Orland Park is the #1 store in the nation. I know some people prefer Valjaro paints or the P3 paints but I've really liked all my Citadel paints and I enjoy being able to see them in person at a store to pick my colors as opposed to buying them online.
Leave them in. On top of the lighting potential, the concept that these inter-dimensional magic wormholes bored through the aether of the cosmos by ruinous sorcery are all held up with rickety wooden support beams is hilariously Skaven.
..."That's so Skaven!" must be a thing.
If you are painting reaper bones material(which is what I think I see above), you don't have to prime at all. For better results, wash the minis to make sure you get rid of all the mold release stuff on them or your paints can go on like super thinned water color and get splotchy. Putting on a really thick layer of primer will wreck the details of the mini if you aren't careful, and contrast paints can be thick and are meant to go on thick. A lot of this hobby is trial and error sometimes, and learning when to do the thing vs not do the thing for a specific effect.
edit: one of the tests im going to do this week is contrast on bones/on primed bones/ on base coated bones&primed base coated bones, I'll try to post the results but it sounds like you are getting to painting faster than I.
Depends on the mini and the paint you can hand prime
I don't really use gesso on minis
Vallejo grey primer is super close to white, with better coverage, and is maybe a couple shades lighter than the GW grey contrast primer, but works just as well for cooler tones.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I got at Target for some odd reason they had the Aasimar fighters Nolzur's mini I have yet to paint it as it's been too cold. It looks primed but I am still very curious about them
Yea, it feels very in theme. I just need to clip out a set and try to figure out how I'll put in the lights. I might try to bore out a channel and then cover it with green stuff once the wires are in.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDAwEBIRazs
Still I am now very curious how I can do the veiled path in contrast paint. Also what black is Corvus Black? A darker black than Chaos? Or Darker than Abaddon or somewhere in-between?
I'm still unsure what to do as far as painting my colorshifed Tau. I should probably focus on finishing the Gnawholes but I keep thinking about my poor Tau that I haven't touched in months.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I was looking at it to do the proto black templars. I also had an idea to do a few of them in a different way.
Since I am making my imperial first Horus Heresy force proto black templars I am going to do half? or so still in the yellow armor most in the black armor yellow pauldrons and helm
New Chaos models are very nice, although the push fit makes sub assemblies a nightmare, so the Knights are going to be a pain to paint
PSN- AHermano
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Maybe I also need a set-up for making photos.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You sort of can on the app, I was really using it on my phone because I don't want to post pics the size of Belgium or mess around resizing it
Non Instagram one-
PSN- AHermano
GW paints are definitely fine. I think it mostly comes down to what color you want and how you want it to dry. I have GW classic and contrast paints, vallejo game air and metallic, I have scale 75 paints and inks, and I have the green stuff world colorshift and fluorescent paints.
Just depends on what you want to do and which brand will give you the desired color in the end.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
PSN- AHermano
GW paints are outstanding. The pots are shit. Coat d' Arms and P3 paints are also outstanding and come in good pots (CtD, P3 & GW paints are all produced by HMG in the UK). CtD is actually the old Citadel line with updated names in most cases, eg: Boltgun Metal = Gun Metal.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I jsut need to fix some of the joints with green stuff when it gets warmer
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.