Bluefin had a shipment. They took preorders for individuals which went out for delivery last week but it looks like that was it and now it is waiting for retailers to get their shipment. USAGundam got it for $34 + shipping use the code "Google10" for 10% off preorders.
I'm currently fighting with FedEx needing a signature but not informing me when they attempt to deliver this stupid thing. I just redirected it to the local Walgreens hopefully they'll actually leave it there
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Of all the parts of the T-rex, apparently the feet are the least applicable to panel lines. Makes sense, I guess, though I am VERY glad the bottom is black and therefore will not be getting the panel line treatment.
Also I'm quite tired and this took longer than I figured it would.
Don't you just love it when you get some really cool panel lining on the inside of the armor. Like hell yeah I am doing even if no one will ever see it.
+1
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
edited January 2020
hoo boy. I was going strong tonight on just lining up the model... and then I hit the blades. I knew these would be work, but I didn't realize how much. All the extra detail is made possible by some pieces fit inside each other, so the pour type doesn't like it. But more than that.. it was just MESSY, as the pour stuff would slide up to the edge of the teeth where I was holding things.
I only got through one of the blades! I still have to do the second one, and that is the one that snapped when I first assembled the line so I have to be super careful not to break it again. I didn't take a picture post cleanup on the blade though, I'll be doing that when both are done.
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Finished the panel lining! This time I did one blade at a time so I wouldn't lose track of which one I was working on. I also did some touch up on the model's mouth.
I'm super happy with how this turned out. The dust on the model really did no favors to the panel lining, but now I have a really good blacklight flashlight that can help me see how much dust there is.
Honestly Athenor, it looks like an entirely new model thanks to the panel lining! :biggrin:
My 1/144 Sinker is 95% finished (I still need to do the landing gear), but the pic in artificial light (the sun has already gone, so no natural daylight was available) makes the white background look yellowy/browny/beigey.
Anyhew, here are my 3 1/144 zoids, panel lined, on the 3 bases that were supplied in their boxes.
Better pictures under natural light should appear in one of the following days.
Woo! Finished my first robot guy. Only had to take him apart once cause I flipped his ass and front, and only stabbed my thumb hard enough to draw blood once too! I kinda gave up on cleaning the sprues with the exacto knife after the thumb incident. Figured I can just get better with that as I go.
Edit: I found a son for him, but he was only green so I tried "painting" him with some Gundam markers, I probably should have looked up how to do it properly, but he was cheap enough that it doesn't matter how much I beefed it.
Luigi is adopted
What do y'all recommend for painting? Like cleanup or holders or something. Should I paint while they're still on the sprues? Also how do I get it thicker? I waited for it to dry and tried applying multiple coats but it seemed like it was just scraping off the original coating. Should I like spray em down with priming?
Don't use Gundam Markers to paint your models. Gundam markers are an oil based paint, and the oil thinner they use will reactivate any coats that you've put down, resulting in what you've described. You can repaint with acrylic, enamel, or lacquer paints. Enamels and Lacquers generally require good ventilation, while acrylics can be safely painted as-is. Priming is highly recommended before painting, as it gives a better surface for your paint to stick to.
For holders a lot of people buy a bag of alligator clips and glue them on skewers. You can also poster putty on the end of a skewer as well. If you are painting the entire piece then painting while on the sprue doesn't really work cause once you cut it off there will be the unpainted nub marks.
I have apparently done most of the things wrong with this sazabi build. I used the tamiya panel lining ink on naked plastic. then i just put the decals on before finding out about doing a gloss coat to give them something grittier to stick to.
so i think i want to do one thing right for all that this poor chonky boi has had to put up with from me and give it a nice final top coat. when i was at my game store for magic prerelease stuff this weekend it looked like they'd been wiped out on matte and gloss varnishes though so, i assume they'll be restocked soon or I can use a satin finish and not wait. I don't know how much of an overall difference it makes compared to a matte one though
I have apparently done most of the things wrong with this sazabi build. I used the tamiya panel lining ink on naked plastic. then i just put the decals on before finding out about doing a gloss coat to give them something grittier to stick to.
so i think i want to do one thing right for all that this poor chonky boi has had to put up with from me and give it a nice final top coat. when i was at my game store for magic prerelease stuff this weekend it looked like they'd been wiped out on matte and gloss varnishes though so, i assume they'll be restocked soon or I can use a satin finish and not wait. I don't know how much of an overall difference it makes compared to a matte one though
The panel line pens are fine for bare plastic. The paint pens are made for touchup or details, and not broad areas.
If you want to paint entire pieces with a chisel tip Gundam Marker GSI Creos does make an airbrush that was specifically designed for Gundam Markers but you are probably better off getting a real airbrush.
0
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Gunpla build club was great tonight! Lots of people were impressed seeing the Gojulas in person. I'm kinda mad at myself for not taking a close look at the Perfect Grade Zaku II that was being worked on, but I am sure I'll get another chance.
Only negative: A new dad and his daughter came by and were working on a MG Shen Long that she got as a Christmas gift. Unfortunately, one of the pieces for the head went flying, and we couldn't find it after 15-20 minutes of searching all over. It's one of the white crest pieces.. I think D1 8 we settled on. The dad's probably going to just buy a replacement part, but that's gonna be expensive and I felt really bad that no one could help them out.
Only negative: A new dad and his daughter came by and were working on a MG Shen Long that she got as a Christmas gift. Unfortunately, one of the pieces for the head went flying, and we couldn't find it after 15-20 minutes of searching all over. It's one of the white crest pieces.. I think D1 8 we settled on. The dad's probably going to just buy a replacement part, but that's gonna be expensive and I felt really bad that no one could help them out.
Is there a way to get/buy official replacement sprues these days? A while ago - boy, over a decade now - I received a Perfect Grade PG RX-78-2 as a gift, and one sprue was missing but another sprue had a duplicate. I remember that I got the missing sprue in the mail, somehow, but I can't for the life of me remember how. I'm reasonably sure that I didn't just buy the sprue off of some shady dealer in an Internet alley; I'm fairly sure that I got it from an official source, but I can't remember if it was from Bandai directly, or from a store selling replacements, or what.
Btw I'm asking because I saw the waterslides for the RG Sinanju at my hobby shop. I was never happy with the stickers on mine. So I'm going to pull them off, clean up, and apply the waterslides.
Alcohol doesn't harm plastic(the cheap stuff comes in plastic) and evaporates on its own so it is perfectly safe. Since you are adding waterslides on an old model you will want to wipe it down anyway to make sure it is dust free.
Posts
Steam
https://bandai-hobby.net/item/3510/ <- Link for those who can't see the Twitter page.
Yeah I was wondering about that. Made me almost think that it was a second kit you needed to buy.
Steam: betsuni7
I'm currently fighting with FedEx needing a signature but not informing me when they attempt to deliver this stupid thing. I just redirected it to the local Walgreens hopefully they'll actually leave it there
Steam
Also I'm quite tired and this took longer than I figured it would.
I only got through one of the blades! I still have to do the second one, and that is the one that snapped when I first assembled the line so I have to be super careful not to break it again. I didn't take a picture post cleanup on the blade though, I'll be doing that when both are done.
I'm super happy with how this turned out. The dust on the model really did no favors to the panel lining, but now I have a really good blacklight flashlight that can help me see how much dust there is.
My 1/144 Sinker is 95% finished (I still need to do the landing gear), but the pic in artificial light (the sun has already gone, so no natural daylight was available) makes the white background look yellowy/browny/beigey.
Anyhew, here are my 3 1/144 zoids, panel lined, on the 3 bases that were supplied in their boxes.
Better pictures under natural light should appear in one of the following days.
Edit: I found a son for him, but he was only green so I tried "painting" him with some Gundam markers, I probably should have looked up how to do it properly, but he was cheap enough that it doesn't matter how much I beefed it.
Luigi is adopted
What do y'all recommend for painting? Like cleanup or holders or something. Should I paint while they're still on the sprues? Also how do I get it thicker? I waited for it to dry and tried applying multiple coats but it seemed like it was just scraping off the original coating. Should I like spray em down with priming?
so i think i want to do one thing right for all that this poor chonky boi has had to put up with from me and give it a nice final top coat. when i was at my game store for magic prerelease stuff this weekend it looked like they'd been wiped out on matte and gloss varnishes though so, i assume they'll be restocked soon or I can use a satin finish and not wait. I don't know how much of an overall difference it makes compared to a matte one though
The panel line pens are fine for bare plastic. The paint pens are made for touchup or details, and not broad areas.
Only negative: A new dad and his daughter came by and were working on a MG Shen Long that she got as a Christmas gift. Unfortunately, one of the pieces for the head went flying, and we couldn't find it after 15-20 minutes of searching all over. It's one of the white crest pieces.. I think D1 8 we settled on. The dad's probably going to just buy a replacement part, but that's gonna be expensive and I felt really bad that no one could help them out.
Store thing.
Is there any paint? Something like Everclear or rubbing alcohol will probably work but will take any paint with it.
Thanks y'all.
wouldn't mind getting one of those zakus as a kit