StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited January 2020
I think I'm gonna go boring with my Necrons and just do a leadbelcher base and paint from there.
Gonna paint the shoulder pads Abaddon black and then edge highlight with orange, green, or blue and then just call it done.
I really don't like painting. I never feel satisfied with paint schemes.
The only ones I ever felt were how I wanted are my knights.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited January 2020
Is there any company that sells metallic colors like green stuff world? Specifically ones like blue and such? I checked scale 75 and vallejo but didn't see anything. I might try tamiya clear paints or GW clear paints over silver again but I'm not sure I want to just yet.
Also, can anyone recommend an airbrush? I'm tired of the one I have clogging nonstop.
The brush even clogged with the fluorescent paint and those paints are pretty thin as is.
I'm so frustrated with all things painting. I just wanted to test some colors on some plastic spoons to see how they came out.
Is the brushing being apparently a .38mm tip the issue? I don't think the compressor is the problem.
Could the stuff I'm using to clean it be causing the issues? I've been using simple green.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Scale 75 do a metallic blue, I’m pretty sure. Check their alchemy range?
Yeah, here.
Is there any company that sells metallic colors like green stuff world? Specifically ones like blue and such? I checked scale 75 and vallejo but didn't see anything. I might try tamiya clear paints or GW clear paints over silver again but I'm not sure I want to just yet.
I have a couple of colored metallics from Warcolours. Depending on your goal I think Tamiya clear paints might be better though, the ones from Warcolours look a lot like "silver, but mixed with pigment".
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
The easiest way I've found to make a metallic the color you want is ink. It tints the paint without altering the metallic effect. It also thins it a bit and a tiny amount is all you need.
But now that Contrast is a thing and GW sells glossy clear paints just do whatever is most accessible.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The metallic range scale 75 has is good but limited. I was interesting in the green stuff world for the amount of colors they have.
I do have tamiya clear paints and the GW clear air paints and I was going to test out which looked better over what base metallic but that is when I got extremely frustrated with my airbrush and brush painting gloss black primer that had flow improver in it onto a plastic spoon is not worth the trouble.
I will try out that vallejo metallic medium with some inks and see if that looks how I want.
I am also going to be buying a new airbrush on Friday and I have 5 days in a row off starting Friday so I'll have some time to run the airbrush through some tests.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'll run airpaint or thinned acrylic through my airbrush and give it a good rinse plus a splash of airbrush cleaner afterwards.
Anytime I run primer through it though it gets a deep clean. Full strip and scrub down the metal parts, nozzle, cap, etc with a brass brush from a gun cleaning kit to get the crap out. The most common problem spot on my paasche is the end cap collecting bits of dried primer or paint and causing buildup inside the end cap.
I'll run airpaint or thinned acrylic through my airbrush and give it a good rinse plus a splash of airbrush cleaner afterwards.
Anytime I run primer through it though it gets a deep clean. Full strip and scrub down the metal parts, nozzle, cap, etc with a brass brush from a gun cleaning kit to get the crap out. The most common problem spot on my paasche is the end cap collecting bits of dried primer or paint and causing buildup inside the end cap.
Yea, I clean my paasche out fully after every use no matter what I run through it because it clogs so easily. I use flow improver and everything as well and it still just clogs and causes spackling or webbing. The brush isn't even a year old, I bought it in July of 2019.
I'm getting a mr hobby creos airbrush next. I talked to the dude who runs the next leveling painting channel for advice on airbrushes and he recommend this one to me.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I tried contrast cyan (whatever it's called) and BA red over ledbelcher. Especially the cyan became a very nice metallic blue. The red also looked good, but not quite as metallic.
I'll run airpaint or thinned acrylic through my airbrush and give it a good rinse plus a splash of airbrush cleaner afterwards.
Anytime I run primer through it though it gets a deep clean. Full strip and scrub down the metal parts, nozzle, cap, etc with a brass brush from a gun cleaning kit to get the crap out. The most common problem spot on my paasche is the end cap collecting bits of dried primer or paint and causing buildup inside the end cap.
Yea, I clean my paasche out fully after every use no matter what I run through it because it clogs so easily. I use flow improver and everything as well and it still just clogs and causes spackling or webbing. The brush isn't even a year old, I bought it in July of 2019.
I'm getting a mr hobby creos airbrush next. I talked to the dude who runs the next leveling painting channel for advice on airbrushes and he recommend this one to me.
If your paasche is like mine the nozzle and tip are all metal. Maybe try dropping it into some acetone to see if there's something jamming it up.
The last time I had a problem with mine it was an absolutely tiny bit of paint dried in the inside of the nozzle cone near the hole where the needle slides in and out. I had to scrape it out with a toothpick after letting it soak in cleaner for a bit and after it came out it was actually a pretty substantial chunk of dried primer/paint, even though it didn't look like much pre-clean.
So for a while now I haven't been wanting to play my holy grail copy of the StarCraft board game, because I painted all the miniatures and the spray varnish came out very tacky, and no solution has proved permanent. There's just some reaction that makes it so anything I put on there eventually reverts back to a soft, tacky grossness that damages the paint.
Well I finally did some proper investigating and found a solution! Testors makes a brush-on dullcote, which isn't commonly available in my area but was pretty cheap off the internet.
Good news: it has completely and reliably solved the tackiness issue, and the miniatures are really handle-able and protected-feeling.
Bad news: using a brush-on varnish is incredibly tedious and makes me feel like a primitive.
Worse news: The lacquer-based varnish is safe when used as an aerosol spray, but when brushed on, the prolonged dry time makes the stuff essentially a solvent for the paintjob underneath, so until it dries completely, the underlying coats of paint are incredibly easy to destroy. You also have to be very delicate and thoughtful when applying it.
Weird news?: Some of the paint on the miniatures ends up crackling under the dullcote no matter what... but I think I'm actually fine with it? The StarCraft miniatures aren't exactly the most detailed and stylish ever made, and particularly the zerg minis are in desperate need of a little extra texture, which the crackle supplies.
Is the issue (with everything going tacky) with the paint, or with the original varnish, d'you think? Just curious because I know next to nothing about painting miniatures, and that sounds like a pitfall I'd like to avoid if possible.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
So for a while now I haven't been wanting to play my holy grail copy of the StarCraft board game, because I painted all the miniatures and the spray varnish came out very tacky, and no solution has proved permanent. There's just some reaction that makes it so anything I put on there eventually reverts back to a soft, tacky grossness that damages the paint.
Well I finally did some proper investigating and found a solution! Testors makes a brush-on dullcote, which isn't commonly available in my area but was pretty cheap off the internet.
Good news: it has completely and reliably solved the tackiness issue, and the miniatures are really handle-able and protected-feeling.
Bad news: using a brush-on varnish is incredibly tedious and makes me feel like a primitive.
Worse news: The lacquer-based varnish is safe when used as an aerosol spray, but when brushed on, the prolonged dry time makes the stuff essentially a solvent for the paintjob underneath, so until it dries completely, the underlying coats of paint are incredibly easy to destroy. You also have to be very delicate and thoughtful when applying it.
Weird news?: Some of the paint on the miniatures ends up crackling under the dullcote no matter what... but I think I'm actually fine with it? The StarCraft miniatures aren't exactly the most detailed and stylish ever made, and particularly the zerg minis are in desperate need of a little extra texture, which the crackle supplies.
Is the issue (with everything going tacky) with the paint, or with the original varnish, d'you think? Just curious because I know next to nothing about painting miniatures, and that sounds like a pitfall I'd like to avoid if possible.
In my experience, tackiness like that is almost certainly the lacquer or varnish.
I'm not 100% sure, because I've used that same can of aerosol spray on the same paints on other miniatures and they've turned out fine. I've been led to believe it has something to do with the minis and the plastic they're made of or maybe a release agent or something coating them which causes some reaction that runs up through the paint and varnish. I really don't know. I washed the minis before painting them, but it happened to some degree to almost all of them from that game.
GW have always had a knack for making trolls really great painting projects. They have lots of interesting planes and weird shapes, but they're not overly burdened with annoying little details. And you can pretty much paint them any color you can think of and they'll still look natural (well, natural for a troll).
GW have always had a knack for making trolls really great painting projects. They have lots of interesting planes and weird shapes, but they're not overly burdened with annoying little details. And you can pretty much paint them any color you can think of and they'll still look natural (well, natural for a troll).
Anyway yourss look absolutely killer, Hermano.
Yeah they've got a ton of character and they're a joy to paint, I remember the old metal Rock Trolls being similarly fun
How hot is too hot for paint? It floats anywhere between 73 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit in my house.
I'm curious because the stuff I have for making silicone molds had a hard layer at the top and they've been sitting in the house for months now.
Well this last summer was in the 90's when I was trying to paint my necrons and when I started to paint again
So I had to wait till night where it would be in the 70's
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I think I'm gonna get some mdf board and paint up some buildings to get back into painting. Just not sure if I want to use an airbrush or brushes.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
How hot is too hot for paint? It floats anywhere between 73 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit in my house.
I'm curious because the stuff I have for making silicone molds had a hard layer at the top and they've been sitting in the house for months now.
My dude, it reaches 110+ F (outside) here when I paint sometimes, you'll be good at 85. Of course my paint dries on a dry palette before I can get a brush in it sometimes, but it's doable.
Humidity and extreme temps can have an effect on like spray priming for sure, but otherwise you should be fine to brush paint. I don't do airbrushing but I am pretty sure room temp is fine as long as its not 100% humidity indoors or something
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Arizona usually doesn't have much humidity so I'm good to go there. Just the part A of the two part silicone mold stuff hardening up worried me about my paint.
The cast I made came out decently. Kind of a paint to make a mold for this.
Gotta glue it back to the arm though since it broke.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Kind of stressing about buying a new airbrush. The current one I have is a .38 nozzle and the new one is .3 and apparently either should be fine for priming and general painting but my current one doesn't seem to be.
Is it possible to get a zenithal highlight using metallics? I was thinking of doing one with my Necrons.
Also primed and washed the resin copy arquebus. There was clearly an issue in the mold where it did not line up when I put it together. Hopefully the next one is better. I need to find a better material to use over this soft red clay when making the first half of the mold. It sticks pretty well to the silicone.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Kind of stressing about buying a new airbrush. The current one I have is a .38 nozzle and the new one is .3 and apparently either should be fine for priming and general painting but my current one doesn't seem to be.
Is it possible to get a zenithal highlight using metallics? I was thinking of doing one with my Necrons.
Also primed and washed the resin copy arquebus. There was clearly an issue in the mold where it did not line up when I put it together. Hopefully the next one is better. I need to find a better material to use over this soft red clay when making the first half of the mold. It sticks pretty well to the silicone.
You need to release the blank as well as the part when you’re pouring the first half. Also, cut registration marks into the clay before pouring to get the edge alignment better; a bunch of short troughs perpendicular to the long axis of the part. They don’t even have to touch the part itself if you don’t want to.
What's the problem you are having? With the airbrush
It is clogging nonstop no matter what kind of paint I use. I do a full breakdown clean after every use and I have to keep breaking it down while using it to clear clogs.
Kind of stressing about buying a new airbrush. The current one I have is a .38 nozzle and the new one is .3 and apparently either should be fine for priming and general painting but my current one doesn't seem to be.
Is it possible to get a zenithal highlight using metallics? I was thinking of doing one with my Necrons.
Also primed and washed the resin copy arquebus. There was clearly an issue in the mold where it did not line up when I put it together. Hopefully the next one is better. I need to find a better material to use over this soft red clay when making the first half of the mold. It sticks pretty well to the silicone.
You need to release the blank as well as the part when you’re pouring the first half. Also, cut registration marks into the clay before pouring to get the edge alignment better; a bunch of short troughs perpendicular to the long axis of the part. They don’t even have to touch the part itself if you don’t want to.
I'll do that for the next mold I make, thank you.
When you say release, do you mean use mold release for the clay/silicone part of the process as well?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Yes, that exactly.
Pain in the ass but silicone is notorious for sticking to absolutely everything (technically even the release, but it’s sacrificial and separates from itself).
As for the registration, you want nice clean geometric grooves to get a solid image from. I say perpendicular to the long axis because that’s where most of the movement is going to be; along that axis. So you want ‘barriers’ to stop that.
Zenithal highlight with metallic paint should work fine. The colour itself doesn't really matter along as the highlight colour is lighter than the base colour. For something like alpha legion ou often even use different colours, like blue from below and green from the top.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
I used legos embedded in the mold pieces for alignment holders, and astroglide worked quite well as a mold release.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Yes, that exactly.
Pain in the ass but silicone is notorious for sticking to absolutely everything (technically even the release, but it’s sacrificial and separates from itself).
As for the registration, you want nice clean geometric grooves to get a solid image from. I say perpendicular to the long axis because that’s where most of the movement is going to be; along that axis. So you want ‘barriers’ to stop that.
Awesome, thank you. I'm feeling a lot more confident going into the next attempt here.
Zenithal highlight with metallic paint should work fine. The colour itself doesn't really matter along as the highlight colour is lighter than the base colour. For something like alpha legion ou often even use different colours, like blue from below and green from the top.
I was probably gonna do burnt iron or gunmetal grey from vallejo as the base, gotta see which is darker and then I'll mix that will silver or just go to silver and then chrome.
Is there a good way to brush paint the clear acrylics like the tamiya clear or the GW air clear paints? I tried brush painting some on a test spoon and it is so streaky. I was using the large GW shade brush.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Also, I should say, with injection moulded plastic, you have a built in advantage; the parting line for the mould is already there for you. If you bed the part down in the blank so that the parting line is exactly where the mould line on the plastic frame was, you should naturally have the absolute minimum of undercuts.
Also, I should say, with injection moulded plastic, you have a built in advantage; the parting line for the mould is already there for you. If you bed the part down in the blank so that the parting line is exactly where the mould line on the plastic frame was, you should naturally have the absolute minimum of undercuts.
I'll definitely try to line it up as best I can though it is a little awkward since I'm trying to do the entire gun and arm connected to it. For whatever reason there was a hollow spot on the wrist and the gun broke from the arm. I felt like I got the resin in there in time for it to spread through well.
The resin starts to harden really fast.
Also, looking at paint schemes for stuff and since I don't feel like I can manager it for any of my KT/40K stuff I was thinking of painting up the Warcry/AoS terrain I'm going to eventually buy.
The inspiration is the old halloween map for league of legends. Something about how the colors are spread around is getting to me though like there is no rhyme or reason to it.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited February 2020
Looking at that picture, here's what I see.
The structures are purple, shading down to a warm red-brown, highlighting up to a purple-pink to straight pink.
The foliage (tree, leaves/crystals?, ground cover) is pink, but the light sources nearby (torches) are casting a hard orange light. This is changing the color of the detail toward orange, or brown in recesses and at transition areas out of the lighting area.
Final Troggoth done, might have to pick up a Troggboss soon, these were so nice to paint
PSN- AHermano
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Just made a huge push on the Mortek guard I’ve been working on. So close to the finish line - all I have left is some edge highlighting on the shields, highlighting 2 banners, the base work, and then some touch ups.
Getting this out the way first means I feel like I will finally be able to have a fully painted army? After this, it’s all larger models like stalkers, harvesters, death riders or heroes.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited February 2020
Painting these clear paints onto stuff just doesn't look any good.
I very badly need to organize my paint setup.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
Gonna paint the shoulder pads Abaddon black and then edge highlight with orange, green, or blue and then just call it done.
I really don't like painting. I never feel satisfied with paint schemes.
The only ones I ever felt were how I wanted are my knights.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Also, can anyone recommend an airbrush? I'm tired of the one I have clogging nonstop.
The brush even clogged with the fluorescent paint and those paints are pretty thin as is.
I'm so frustrated with all things painting. I just wanted to test some colors on some plastic spoons to see how they came out.
Is the brushing being apparently a .38mm tip the issue? I don't think the compressor is the problem.
Could the stuff I'm using to clean it be causing the issues? I've been using simple green.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah, here.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I have a couple of colored metallics from Warcolours. Depending on your goal I think Tamiya clear paints might be better though, the ones from Warcolours look a lot like "silver, but mixed with pigment".
But now that Contrast is a thing and GW sells glossy clear paints just do whatever is most accessible.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I do have tamiya clear paints and the GW clear air paints and I was going to test out which looked better over what base metallic but that is when I got extremely frustrated with my airbrush and brush painting gloss black primer that had flow improver in it onto a plastic spoon is not worth the trouble.
I will try out that vallejo metallic medium with some inks and see if that looks how I want.
I am also going to be buying a new airbrush on Friday and I have 5 days in a row off starting Friday so I'll have some time to run the airbrush through some tests.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Anytime I run primer through it though it gets a deep clean. Full strip and scrub down the metal parts, nozzle, cap, etc with a brass brush from a gun cleaning kit to get the crap out. The most common problem spot on my paasche is the end cap collecting bits of dried primer or paint and causing buildup inside the end cap.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yea, I clean my paasche out fully after every use no matter what I run through it because it clogs so easily. I use flow improver and everything as well and it still just clogs and causes spackling or webbing. The brush isn't even a year old, I bought it in July of 2019.
I'm getting a mr hobby creos airbrush next. I talked to the dude who runs the next leveling painting channel for advice on airbrushes and he recommend this one to me.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If your paasche is like mine the nozzle and tip are all metal. Maybe try dropping it into some acetone to see if there's something jamming it up.
The last time I had a problem with mine it was an absolutely tiny bit of paint dried in the inside of the nozzle cone near the hole where the needle slides in and out. I had to scrape it out with a toothpick after letting it soak in cleaner for a bit and after it came out it was actually a pretty substantial chunk of dried primer/paint, even though it didn't look like much pre-clean.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Is the issue (with everything going tacky) with the paint, or with the original varnish, d'you think? Just curious because I know next to nothing about painting miniatures, and that sounds like a pitfall I'd like to avoid if possible.
In my experience, tackiness like that is almost certainly the lacquer or varnish.
PSN- AHermano
Anyway yours look absolutely killer, Hermano.
Yeah they've got a ton of character and they're a joy to paint, I remember the old metal Rock Trolls being similarly fun
Ha, thanks!
PSN- AHermano
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I'm curious because the stuff I have for making silicone molds had a hard layer at the top and they've been sitting in the house for months now.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Well this last summer was in the 90's when I was trying to paint my necrons and when I started to paint again
So I had to wait till night where it would be in the 70's
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
My dude, it reaches 110+ F (outside) here when I paint sometimes, you'll be good at 85. Of course my paint dries on a dry palette before I can get a brush in it sometimes, but it's doable.
The cast I made came out decently. Kind of a paint to make a mold for this.
Gotta glue it back to the arm though since it broke.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Is it possible to get a zenithal highlight using metallics? I was thinking of doing one with my Necrons.
Also primed and washed the resin copy arquebus. There was clearly an issue in the mold where it did not line up when I put it together. Hopefully the next one is better. I need to find a better material to use over this soft red clay when making the first half of the mold. It sticks pretty well to the silicone.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You need to release the blank as well as the part when you’re pouring the first half. Also, cut registration marks into the clay before pouring to get the edge alignment better; a bunch of short troughs perpendicular to the long axis of the part. They don’t even have to touch the part itself if you don’t want to.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
It is clogging nonstop no matter what kind of paint I use. I do a full breakdown clean after every use and I have to keep breaking it down while using it to clear clogs.
I'll do that for the next mold I make, thank you.
When you say release, do you mean use mold release for the clay/silicone part of the process as well?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Pain in the ass but silicone is notorious for sticking to absolutely everything (technically even the release, but it’s sacrificial and separates from itself).
As for the registration, you want nice clean geometric grooves to get a solid image from. I say perpendicular to the long axis because that’s where most of the movement is going to be; along that axis. So you want ‘barriers’ to stop that.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Awesome, thank you. I'm feeling a lot more confident going into the next attempt here.
I was probably gonna do burnt iron or gunmetal grey from vallejo as the base, gotta see which is darker and then I'll mix that will silver or just go to silver and then chrome.
Is there a good way to brush paint the clear acrylics like the tamiya clear or the GW air clear paints? I tried brush painting some on a test spoon and it is so streaky. I was using the large GW shade brush.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I'll definitely try to line it up as best I can though it is a little awkward since I'm trying to do the entire gun and arm connected to it. For whatever reason there was a hollow spot on the wrist and the gun broke from the arm. I felt like I got the resin in there in time for it to spread through well.
The resin starts to harden really fast.
Also, looking at paint schemes for stuff and since I don't feel like I can manager it for any of my KT/40K stuff I was thinking of painting up the Warcry/AoS terrain I'm going to eventually buy.
The inspiration is the old halloween map for league of legends. Something about how the colors are spread around is getting to me though like there is no rhyme or reason to it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The structures are purple, shading down to a warm red-brown, highlighting up to a purple-pink to straight pink.
The foliage (tree, leaves/crystals?, ground cover) is pink, but the light sources nearby (torches) are casting a hard orange light. This is changing the color of the detail toward orange, or brown in recesses and at transition areas out of the lighting area.
PSN- AHermano
Getting this out the way first means I feel like I will finally be able to have a fully painted army? After this, it’s all larger models like stalkers, harvesters, death riders or heroes.
I very badly need to organize my paint setup.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.