Any other southern/south eastern Ohio residents here?
I'm still not used to the whole "pick your electricity provider thing" and I've been trying to find a green energy provider to switch to in April whenever my contract with AEP is up. I'm in Athens county, if that helps.
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I went to replace the bulb on my porch light fixture today. After ten somewhat harrowing minutes high up on a ladder trying to figure out how to get the hanging fixture to open, I was greeted with the following conundrum.
On the left is a sensible, everyday LED light bulb which I was planning on using as the replacement. On the right is some ridiculous dinky bulb that the fixture actually takes. What do you even call that type of socket? I'm trying to look for an LED replacement, but I don't know what you call that socket size.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
I went to replace the bulb on my porch light fixture today. After ten somewhat harrowing minutes high up on a ladder trying to figure out how to get the hanging fixture to open, I was greeted with the following conundrum.
On the left is a sensible, everyday LED light bulb which I was planning on using as the replacement. On the right is some ridiculous dinky bulb that the fixture actually takes. What do you even call that type of socket? I'm trying to look for an LED replacement, but I don't know what you call that socket size.
That's a candelabra bulb. They're pretty common and usually right next to the standard LEDs at the store.
Yeah I'm in Ohio (Dayton area) but unfortunately there's not much in the area to choose from for me. It's all DP&L.
Yeah Dayton is in a zone by itself. I'm pretty sure I'm in the same zone as Columbus.
I’m pretty sure all the actual power comes from AEP’s coal plants no matter what provider you pick
AEP, the top emitter of greenhouse gases currently and in human history
It kinda does, it kinda doesn't.
AEP maintains the transmission lines and the like in my area, and I get a charge from them (seems to be usage based) for that privilege. BUT, I have to pay separately for the actual electricity I consume, and I would like that to at least come from someone generating clean energy. And by separately, I mean I contract with someone else for those watt-hours. I know the actual watt-hours come from the coal plant about 30 miles away, but I would very much like them not to get paid for it while paying someone dumping an equivalent amount of clean energy onto the grid in its place.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
We are all old because we figured that out way too easily.....
I wouldn't have guessed candelabra because when I think candelabra, I don't think outdoor lighting fixtures, I think:
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
edited January 2020
Here's the current state of my workbench/work from home zone. Still need to cut off another inch or so from the chair so I can sit against the backrest and have legs under the bench.
Got some moss and plastic flowers to liven up the place:
Here's the current state of my workbench/work from home zone. Still need to cut off another inch or so from the chair so I can sit against the backrest and have legs under the bench.
Got some moss and plastic flowers to liven up the place:
One of the screwdrivers is leaning the opposite direction of the rest. 2/10.
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
Had my first trip to an IKEA store yesterday. I picked up the Projekt card so I could get the 0% for 6 months on purchases over 500. Went through the store and pretty soon I'd completely lost track of how much was in my cart.
So! It turns out the sockets in the light fixture were probably supposed to be for candelabra bulbs, but poor QC means that only one of them is actually able to retain a bulb, with the bulb cocked at a funny angle. The other bulb sort of stays but doesn't turn on at all.
So! It turns out the sockets in the light fixture were probably supposed to be for candelabra bulbs, but poor QC means that only one of them is actually able to retain a bulb, with the bulb cocked at a funny angle. The other bulb sort of stays but doesn't turn on at all.
tl;dr fixture is trash, will need to be replaced
It could be an E17 base. Candelabra is E12. Here's a helpful graphic with measurements.
I was talking with my mom today and she had a repairman come over to fix her Samsung fridge a few days ago and shortly after he finished repairs the fridge started popping the breaker (it hadn't the entire time she had it up to that point). She called them back and the guy apparently decided to "fix" the problem by swapping the 20 amp breaker for a higher one. My mom doesn't know what he swapped it out for (I'm having her check tomorrow when it's light out since her breaker is on the outside of her house) but I'm pretty sure no matter what he upped it to it's potentially very dangerous, right?
I was talking with my mom today and she had a repairman come over to fix her Samsung fridge a few days ago and shortly after he finished repairs the fridge started popping the breaker (it hadn't the entire time she had it up to that point). She called them back and the guy apparently decided to "fix" the problem by swapping the 20 amp breaker for a higher one. My mom doesn't know what he swapped it out for (I'm having her check tomorrow when it's light out since her breaker is on the outside of her house) but I'm pretty sure no matter what he upped it to it's potentially very dangerous, right?
Yeah, that's a red flag. For one thing, the in-wall wiring is (presumably) rated for 20 amp, and you don't want the breaker to have a higher limit than the in-wall wiring. There's a possibility he swapped it out for a different 20A breaker because the existing one was flaky, but I doubt it.
(If it's an old house, the fridge might not be on a dedicated circuit, which could cause overloads when using another high draw appliance in the kitchen, so this isn't necessarily indicative of an internal fault with the fridge, but it's unsettling.)
The house was built in 2017 (newly built 55+ community, I still have no idea why they put the breaker box outside) and the fridge has a dedicated breaker. I had her unplug her fridge for the night just in case what he did was install a higher amperage breaker. 20 amps is plenty for a fridge, especially on a dedicated circuit.
Outdoor breakers aren't a new thing. What state is she in?
It may be worth calling an electrician depending what she finds.
It should be inside because it's a 55+ community and forcing older people to go outside and navigate the side of their house that has no lighting to reach the breaker box is dumb. It's even dumber because she's in Colorado which means during the winter it's basically inaccessible to her. Anyway she got back to me this morning and what he did was swap the GFCI breaker that was there (and came with the house) with a normal one. The way he told my mom what he was intending to do was confused her: what he said was "the fridge breaker (20 amp, GFCI) needs to look like the dryer breaker (30 amp, not GFCI)" and didn't specify that he was talking about the GFCI part so she thought he put a 30 amp one in (or in her words, a "stronger" one). Regardless of all that, the old breaker worked fine for the two years she had that fridge until he did his repairs, so blaming it on the breaker is still skeevy to me. Since the repairs were done through a Home Depot warranty I told her that if she needs to get repairs again in the future (since I think there's still probably something wrong with the fridge) then to request a different repair place than the one that sent that guy if at all possible.
GFCI breakers on dedicated fridge circuits aren't universally praised, as trips can result in food spoiling. The question of whether or not to put a fridge on a GFCI circuit is currently debatable. (I think it's fine.)
What's less debatable is that the fridge worked before, but after getting fixed, will now trip GFCI protection. This sounds a lot like the fridge now has a ground fault. (While GFCI breakers can go bad, there's a tendency to blame the GFCI protection instead of considering that it's working exactly as intended.)
Yep. Either the blower motor or the compressor motor is basically shot.
Also I agree with you @Opty about outdoor breaker boxes. They were probably 100x cheaper for the builder and I don't understand how any area with any sort of Winter or extreme weather can say it's okay to have the box outside. Either way you have to penetrate the structure anyway.
outdoor breaker boxes seems like a horrible idea, what the fuck
It makes more sense in the south, as the weather is less lethal during winter. It absolutely should have lighting, though.
It still rains in the south though.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
I asked a bunch of the nerds in my office (one is the son of a master electrician) and no one could figure out exactly why they would stick the breaker box outdoors. Our best guess is that it's for easy access by emergency services. It's evidently more popular out west.
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I'm still not used to the whole "pick your electricity provider thing" and I've been trying to find a green energy provider to switch to in April whenever my contract with AEP is up. I'm in Athens county, if that helps.
Yeah Dayton is in a zone by itself. I'm pretty sure I'm in the same zone as Columbus.
On the left is a sensible, everyday LED light bulb which I was planning on using as the replacement. On the right is some ridiculous dinky bulb that the fixture actually takes. What do you even call that type of socket? I'm trying to look for an LED replacement, but I don't know what you call that socket size.
Maybe a B11 or E12? Hard to say in the picture.
That's a candelabra bulb. They're pretty common and usually right next to the standard LEDs at the store.
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FZ1221 in Google comes up Candelabra size, yeah.
A truth universally acknowledged.
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I’m pretty sure all the actual power comes from AEP’s coal plants no matter what provider you pick
AEP, the top emitter of greenhouse gases currently and in human history
It kinda does, it kinda doesn't.
AEP maintains the transmission lines and the like in my area, and I get a charge from them (seems to be usage based) for that privilege. BUT, I have to pay separately for the actual electricity I consume, and I would like that to at least come from someone generating clean energy. And by separately, I mean I contract with someone else for those watt-hours. I know the actual watt-hours come from the coal plant about 30 miles away, but I would very much like them not to get paid for it while paying someone dumping an equivalent amount of clean energy onto the grid in its place.
The last time I changed my candelabra was to convert it from gas to electricity.
I wouldn't have guessed candelabra because when I think candelabra, I don't think outdoor lighting fixtures, I think:
Got some moss and plastic flowers to liven up the place:
One of the screwdrivers is leaning the opposite direction of the rest. 2/10.
There's one too few holes, so two have to share.
At checkout? $501.
tl;dr fixture is trash, will need to be replaced
It could be an E17 base. Candelabra is E12. Here's a helpful graphic with measurements.
:edit: Here's an even better one.
Also their jams. I dont know where else in North America i can buy lingonberry or cloudberry jam.
Yeah, that's a red flag. For one thing, the in-wall wiring is (presumably) rated for 20 amp, and you don't want the breaker to have a higher limit than the in-wall wiring. There's a possibility he swapped it out for a different 20A breaker because the existing one was flaky, but I doubt it.
(If it's an old house, the fridge might not be on a dedicated circuit, which could cause overloads when using another high draw appliance in the kitchen, so this isn't necessarily indicative of an internal fault with the fridge, but it's unsettling.)
It may be worth calling an electrician depending what she finds.
It should be inside because it's a 55+ community and forcing older people to go outside and navigate the side of their house that has no lighting to reach the breaker box is dumb. It's even dumber because she's in Colorado which means during the winter it's basically inaccessible to her. Anyway she got back to me this morning and what he did was swap the GFCI breaker that was there (and came with the house) with a normal one. The way he told my mom what he was intending to do was confused her: what he said was "the fridge breaker (20 amp, GFCI) needs to look like the dryer breaker (30 amp, not GFCI)" and didn't specify that he was talking about the GFCI part so she thought he put a 30 amp one in (or in her words, a "stronger" one). Regardless of all that, the old breaker worked fine for the two years she had that fridge until he did his repairs, so blaming it on the breaker is still skeevy to me. Since the repairs were done through a Home Depot warranty I told her that if she needs to get repairs again in the future (since I think there's still probably something wrong with the fridge) then to request a different repair place than the one that sent that guy if at all possible.
What's less debatable is that the fridge worked before, but after getting fixed, will now trip GFCI protection. This sounds a lot like the fridge now has a ground fault. (While GFCI breakers can go bad, there's a tendency to blame the GFCI protection instead of considering that it's working exactly as intended.)
Also I agree with you @Opty about outdoor breaker boxes. They were probably 100x cheaper for the builder and I don't understand how any area with any sort of Winter or extreme weather can say it's okay to have the box outside. Either way you have to penetrate the structure anyway.
They make it way easier for enemy commando groups to cut power to your home when they infiltrate. Am I the only one who watched Patriot Games!?
It makes more sense in the south, as the weather is less lethal during winter. It absolutely should have lighting, though.
It still rains in the south though.
Just, wow. Outdoor electrical panel? Are there like, no building codes in the USA? holy hell.