Take your airbrush apart and clean it properly then do some tests. Try some known good paints, like your tamiya ones, thinned with proper thinner for the paints in question. By known good, I mean don't use any wierd stuff that might skew your results. Like vallejo primer/model color, or super fancy flip colours.
Focus on getting some good results on those plastic spoons you keep talking about, get to know what works and doesn't.
I'm sure 99% of your frustrating experiences could be alleviated with a bit of trial and error and focusing on one thing at a time. Slow down. Just from this thread alone I get the impression you bounce from thing to thing like a madman. Only to say you don't like painting, that your schemes are never as imagined.
Your knights went alright ( and more importantly you liked them too ), you had a plan, you stuck to it, you didnt go off the deep end too far with wild idead. You worked them to completion
Take your airbrush apart and clean it properly then do some tests. Try some known good paints, like your tamiya ones, thinned with proper thinner for the paints in question. By known good, I mean don't use any wierd stuff that might skew your results. Like vallejo primer/model color, or super fancy flip colours.
Focus on getting some good results on those plastic spoons you keep talking about, get to know what works and doesn't.
I'm sure 99% of your frustrating experiences could be alleviated with a bit of trial and error and focusing on one thing at a time. Slow down. Just from this thread alone I get the impression you bounce from thing to thing like a madman. Only to say you don't like painting, that your schemes are never as imagined.
Your knights went alright ( and more importantly you liked them too ), you had a plan, you stuck to it, you didnt go off the deep end too far with wild idead. You worked them to completion
Yea, I do switch a lot between trying to paint stuff. Mostly I do it because I get frustrated with the other stuff I was trying to paint. The problem I'm running into with using the tamiya clear is that it brush paints like ass but looks good through an airbrush but then that means I need to airbrush the entire model and then paint between the points and armor segments silver again and then paint the chest silver which is going to suck because the gun is glued in. Honestly thinking about just breaking the arms off and gluing them back on later.
Halfway through painting my ogors, I thought of a much cooler color scheme.
So, obviously, the only thing to do was to keep going.
Does the sight of the minis cause angels to weep tears of joy? No. Are they fully painted? Yes.
Real artists ship.
I have a lot of trouble with this. I've stripped the paint of some of my models multiple times now because I ended up not liking the paint scheme. If I don't like it I can't really get myself to continue because I no longer care.
I still want to try and do the fluorescent color thing for my Skaven but I don't know how to shade that and I'm also just not sure how good that would end up looking. Plus I have to do a lot of touch ups since I have to airbrush the fluorescent paint because it brush paints like absolute trash.
I really dislike doing conventional paint schemes for the most part. I'm fine with it for my Space Wolves but for my Necrons and Skaven I'd like to do something more interesting.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
My new airbrush came in today and the hose isn't fitting the compressor. I found a hose adapter set from the company that makes it on amazon but the delivery date is in March and I'm having trouble figuring out what adapters to buy now. I can't find a size for the hose.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I just took it to every hardware store in the area until I found one with the correct fittings and adapters.
I think most inexpensive compressors are a 1/4 inch fitting?
I think mine is 1/4, I can't find the measurements on the amazon page though.
I did end up fixing the issue though. One of the airbrushes that came with the compressor has a hose that fits the new one perfectly so I was able to hook it up. Though I do feel like I need to unscrew the moisture trap and tighten it up again.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
The structures are purple, shading down to a warm red-brown, highlighting up to a purple-pink to straight pink.
The foliage (tree, leaves/crystals?, ground cover) is pink, but the light sources nearby (torches) are casting a hard orange light. This is changing the color of the detail toward orange, or brown in recesses and at transition areas out of the lighting area.
I think I'm gonna ignore painting models for right now and paint up some warcry terrain in this theme. I know I want to do it and it should be fairly straight forward since it is all on buildings. I really appreciate the breakdown for the colors, I am so bad at figuring out what colors to use or how those colors were used like in the picture I posted.
I think I enjoy the more technical stuff in wargaming. Making interesting bases or making molds for resin copies of stuff. Kit bashing is fun and I want to start learning to properly sculpt green stuff for a project with my Skaven.
My Space Wolves and Space Wolves themed knights are pretty stress free because I know exactly what I'm doing there. I'm also doing my Rusty 17 AdMech in black robes with green and silver trim so that is pretty much decided but my favorite part of the knights was by far figuring out the LED lights for my castellan. I enjoyed that so much.
But yea, I'm doing these warcry buildings up, it is nothing complicated just a lot of dry brushing and building up the colors. Might have some airbrush action as well with the new airbrush. I don't go back to work till Friday so I can probably finish this terrain up.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I think I gotta take a break from painting armies, I specifically picked ogors to not do a hoard army, and doing assembly line painting on just 20 models for the force is destroying me its going so slow. After these guys I gotta do a real nice job on the centerpiece stonehorn, a nice job on a hero, and do up 4 mounted riders.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Also, I should say, with injection moulded plastic, you have a built in advantage; the parting line for the mould is already there for you. If you bed the part down in the blank so that the parting line is exactly where the mould line on the plastic frame was, you should naturally have the absolute minimum of undercuts.
I'll definitely try to line it up as best I can though it is a little awkward since I'm trying to do the entire gun and arm connected to it. For whatever reason there was a hollow spot on the wrist and the gun broke from the arm. I felt like I got the resin in there in time for it to spread through well.
The resin starts to harden really fast.
Also, looking at paint schemes for stuff and since I don't feel like I can manager it for any of my KT/40K stuff I was thinking of painting up the Warcry/AoS terrain I'm going to eventually buy.
The inspiration is the old halloween map for league of legends. Something about how the colors are spread around is getting to me though like there is no rhyme or reason to it.
What would be a food base for this scheme? I was gonna primer it ghost grey and then maybe a dark purple for the base and build up from there with dry brushing.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Also, I should say, with injection moulded plastic, you have a built in advantage; the parting line for the mould is already there for you. If you bed the part down in the blank so that the parting line is exactly where the mould line on the plastic frame was, you should naturally have the absolute minimum of undercuts.
I'll definitely try to line it up as best I can though it is a little awkward since I'm trying to do the entire gun and arm connected to it. For whatever reason there was a hollow spot on the wrist and the gun broke from the arm. I felt like I got the resin in there in time for it to spread through well.
The resin starts to harden really fast.
Also, looking at paint schemes for stuff and since I don't feel like I can manager it for any of my KT/40K stuff I was thinking of painting up the Warcry/AoS terrain I'm going to eventually buy.
The inspiration is the old halloween map for league of legends. Something about how the colors are spread around is getting to me though like there is no rhyme or reason to it.
What would be a food base for this scheme? I was gonna primer it ghost grey and then maybe a dark purple for the base and build up from there with dry brushing.
Assuming you mean "good base", I would think a grey or white primer with a medium-to-dark purple would work well. I say medium with the understanding that you use a red-brown wash in the creases, otherwise if you're just drybrushing you can start with a darker purple.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Also, I should say, with injection moulded plastic, you have a built in advantage; the parting line for the mould is already there for you. If you bed the part down in the blank so that the parting line is exactly where the mould line on the plastic frame was, you should naturally have the absolute minimum of undercuts.
I'll definitely try to line it up as best I can though it is a little awkward since I'm trying to do the entire gun and arm connected to it. For whatever reason there was a hollow spot on the wrist and the gun broke from the arm. I felt like I got the resin in there in time for it to spread through well.
The resin starts to harden really fast.
Also, looking at paint schemes for stuff and since I don't feel like I can manager it for any of my KT/40K stuff I was thinking of painting up the Warcry/AoS terrain I'm going to eventually buy.
The inspiration is the old halloween map for league of legends. Something about how the colors are spread around is getting to me though like there is no rhyme or reason to it.
What would be a food base for this scheme? I was gonna primer it ghost grey and then maybe a dark purple for the base and build up from there with dry brushing.
Assuming you mean "good base", I would think a grey or white primer with a medium-to-dark purple would work well. I say medium with the understanding that you use a red-brown wash in the creases, otherwise if you're just drybrushing you can start with a darker purple.
I did, the ginger bread terrain comes later.
I'm not sure if it would be easier to dry brush or air brush. I have been able to get pretty good transitions with an air brush so I might do it with that.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I think I gotta take a break from painting armies, I specifically picked ogors to not do a hoard army, and doing assembly line painting on just 20 models for the force is destroying me its going so slow. After these guys I gotta do a real nice job on the centerpiece stonehorn, a nice job on a hero, and do up 4 mounted riders.
I try to never paint like more than 5 models at the same time. Only exception so far are Bloodbowl teams. With bigger models like Ogors, 20 at the same time would drive me insane.
I think I gotta take a break from painting armies, I specifically picked ogors to not do a hoard army, and doing assembly line painting on just 20 models for the force is destroying me its going so slow. After these guys I gotta do a real nice job on the centerpiece stonehorn, a nice job on a hero, and do up 4 mounted riders.
I try to never paint like more than 5 models at the same time. Only exception so far are Bloodbowl teams. With bigger models like Ogors, 20 at the same time would drive me insane.
Since I got fired I painted most of my tyranid warriors, half the wraithguard I have about 30 black templars most of my kill team about 40 necrons a carnifex. I half did a bunch of other models because I lacked paints or just got stuck
I have not painted anything since Nov because it was too cold to paint
things done today: sculpted titties onto a great unclean one.
I can't stop laughing at the dainty little crown you put on top. It's this great little bit of incongruity.
I hope those toenails are getting painted up nice and pretty.
+1
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited February 2020
So I bought a new nozzle for the airbrush that keeps clogging and it definitely clogs less but it comes out a lot heavier and it is significantly harder to control. I'm worried about fucking up detail as I prime this terrain I'm working on. Gonna switch to my new airbrush when I'm doing more detailed work.
I also feel like I probably should stop airbrushing inside the house entirely. I am doing it in a pretty large room but there are puppies downstairs and I am spraying right into my booth with the fan that sucks up stuff but it still kind of makes me nervous so I might not finish this for a while. Or I could do it in the garage again or outside I guess. I don't know. I just don't feel comfortable airbrushing anymore.
Edit: yea, these details look clogged.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
How do you get the color on the nails/teeth like that?
@Bucketman thanks! The teeth and nails isn't too complicated, you want to start with a darker brown coat then apply progressively lighter colours, finishing with a bone white, but covering less and less of the tooth as you get lighter if that makes sense?
Start with something like Balor brown or Zandri Dust if you're using gw paints, then mixing in a little screaming skull for the next layer, then just pure screaming skull for the tip. Hope that helps!
PSN- AHermano
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited February 2020
Finished the purple base. There are some small spots where the purple didn't fully cover like in corners or deep recesses. I'm thinking I can just leave those to the red/brown wash that is coming up but I'm not 100%, should I do a little brush work and fill those in? Also, with the wash should I do an all over wash or a recess wash? Recess would take longer but I plan on just transitioning the colors with my airbrush instead of drying brushing.
I also think because I want to get the full color pallet of the picture I'm using for inspiration I'm gonna do the roses on the pieces from a dark pink up to a brighter on though I'm not sure how I should pull that off. The skulls I want to act as the light sources where the orange to red transitions happens so I'm gonna do that on each piece. Everything else is gonna go from purple up to pink as I move up the pieces.
The flash makes the purple look a little off. Here are some pics of current progress.
Edit: After thinking about it I think dry brushing might be the way to go. I'm very unsure of which will give me the right look.
Edit: I think once I get everything finished up I am gonna use some contrast medium and certain contrast paints to create a glaze and blend the transitions further.
Edit: I might be misunderstanding what inks are. I mixed inktensity red and mahogany from scale 75 and watered it down a bit and it was very overpowering and also kind of bubbly. Not sure what that is about. I think I need to give my dry brush and large shade brush a real good washing.
Edit: Also kind of worried because the shade brush scrapped off some of the purple paint and I had let it sit for about half an hour before even trying anything. I'm worried if I dry brush it is going to scrape the paint off real easy.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I'd been meaning to post an update for a few days. Work on the model has certainly been slow, but man do I really enjoy it and get into it when I find the time for it. Not the best pictures since I rushed to take them and not miss my bus, but they show what has changed. The majority of things aren't actually attached (this is actually a big shift to my usual process; I feel dirty :P ), and maybe about half of the pictured pieces are "finished" assembly. I just really like putting small shit together, guys.
Finished the purple base. There are some small spots where the purple didn't fully cover like in corners or deep recesses. I'm thinking I can just leave those to the red/brown wash that is coming up but I'm not 100%, should I do a little brush work and fill those in? Also, with the wash should I do an all over wash or a recess wash? Recess would take longer but I plan on just transitioning the colors with my airbrush instead of drying brushing.
I also think because I want to get the full color pallet of the picture I'm using for inspiration I'm gonna do the roses on the pieces from a dark pink up to a brighter on though I'm not sure how I should pull that off. The skulls I want to act as the light sources where the orange to red transitions happens so I'm gonna do that on each piece. Everything else is gonna go from purple up to pink as I move up the pieces.
The flash makes the purple look a little off. Here are some pics of current progress.
Edit: After thinking about it I think dry brushing might be the way to go. I'm very unsure of which will give me the right look.
Edit: I think once I get everything finished up I am gonna use some contrast medium and certain contrast paints to create a glaze and blend the transitions further.
Edit: I might be misunderstanding what inks are. I mixed inktensity red and mahogany from scale 75 and watered it down a bit and it was very overpowering and also kind of bubbly. Not sure what that is about. I think I need to give my dry brush and large shade brush a real good washing.
Edit: Also kind of worried because the shade brush scrapped off some of the purple paint and I had let it sit for about half an hour before even trying anything. I'm worried if I dry brush it is going to scrape the paint off real easy.
Could always tone it down with a brown wash to get some shading on there. It might look different with some texture.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
edited February 2020
I'm not going to say you did it "wrong" because I think painting processes can be varied quite easily for different results, but I feel like the easier way to approach it would have been to start with either a black prime + white highlighting (leaving you those dark recesses which are currently brighter for your models), or doing a pass with some dark grey on top of your white where you tried to specifically fill in some of the recesses so you could build that natural darkness. As-is, I feel like you're now working outside-in, which definitely isn't ideal. You can try a wash, but I don't think it's going to give you an even enough effect to cover the issue as you see it. Getting in there with a brush (or another pass with the airbrush where you focus on the white areas, maybe using a slightly darkened version of your colour while doing so) seems likely to give you the desired result.
---
Digging up your source above, I think you have too bright a colour to start with, but maybe it'll even out once you get in the extremely light parts. You should probably focus on a single test piece and see if you like the results.
I'm not going to say you did it "wrong" because I think painting processes can be varied quite easily for different results, but I feel like the easier way to approach it would have been to start with either a black prime + white highlighting (leaving you those dark recesses which are currently brighter for your models), or doing a pass with some dark grey on top of your white where you tried to specifically fill in some of the recesses so you could build that natural darkness. As-is, I feel like you're now working outside-in, which definitely isn't ideal. You can try a wash, but I don't think it's going to give you an even enough effect to cover the issue as you see it. Getting in there with a brush (or another pass with the airbrush where you focus on the white areas, maybe using a slightly darkened version of your colour while doing so) seems likely to give you the desired result.
---
Digging up your source above, I think you have too bright a colour to start with, but maybe it'll even out once you get in the extremely light parts. You should probably focus on a single test piece and see if you like the results.
I figured the purple I used was too dark. I could do a shade of druhkari violet and then start laying brighter colors from there as I move up the piece.
I'm just really not sure where to go from here. I'm also unsure of the colors I need. For the building I'm doing that purple going up the stairs and it looks like there is some blue right before the transition into the sort of pink color but I'm not sure.
I do wish I had done this a little smarter though. I started with a ghost grey prime and I could have done a white prime with zenithal highlights and then gone from there.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
edited February 2020
Focus on trying to get the feel of the effect instead of just replicating it precisely. One of the big things that's subtle in that image is that there's actually a lot of variety in the base-level brightness, which you don't currently have (and I think you'll notice that as you go). A bit of varying your tones could give you a more comfortable base to work from. I still think you should touch up your recesses first though. That's step one.
Beyond that, I think you'd also get a lot of mileage out of using a chunky / damaged sponge to dab a stone texture. The image looks absolutely rife with that kind of patterning. Seems easier to do than a drybrush, and would still let you do an edge highlight to finish as desired.
Damn, did I fuck up this paint project by starting with a purple base? I feel like I've messed it up.
Personally, I would have done one piece as a test scheme first before committing. Honestly I think you'ill be fine.
Hard agree on both points, AND I think you could and should do one test piece before you go full assembly line on the rest of the pieces.
Just do the thing, and stop worrying about fucking it up before you've even proven that you will.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Yea, I really really really need to stop going HAM when I start a project.
I'm still gonna work on it and see what I can do and if I can make it work. Worst case scenario is I did screw up the scheme I wanted and I switch to something else with a purple base and do that and then try the scheme I wanted on something else. Maybe the warcry starter terrain if I can find it separate from the box.
Focus on trying to get the feel of the effect instead of just replicating it precisely. One of the big things that's subtle in that image is that there's actually a lot of variety in the base-level brightness, which you don't currently have (and I think you'll notice that as you go). A bit of varying your tones could give you a more comfortable base to work from. I still think you should touch up your recesses first though. That's step one.
Beyond that, I think you'd also get a lot of mileage out of using a chunky / damaged sponge to dab a stone texture. The image looks absolutely rife with that kind of patterning. Seems easier to do than a drybrush, and would still let you do an edge highlight to finish as desired.
I need to fix up the piece I tested the first shade with so I can get all the recesses with a brush and fill those in and you said a darker purple would be better to use?
I'm not 100% sure by what you mean with the sponge.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yea, I really really really need to stop going HAM when I start a project.
I'm still gonna work on it and see what I can do and if I can make it work. Worst case scenario is I did screw up the scheme I wanted and I switch to something else with a purple base and do that and then try the scheme I wanted on something else. Maybe the warcry starter terrain if I can find it separate from the box.
Focus on trying to get the feel of the effect instead of just replicating it precisely. One of the big things that's subtle in that image is that there's actually a lot of variety in the base-level brightness, which you don't currently have (and I think you'll notice that as you go). A bit of varying your tones could give you a more comfortable base to work from. I still think you should touch up your recesses first though. That's step one.
Beyond that, I think you'd also get a lot of mileage out of using a chunky / damaged sponge to dab a stone texture. The image looks absolutely rife with that kind of patterning. Seems easier to do than a drybrush, and would still let you do an edge highlight to finish as desired.
I need to fix up the piece I tested the first shade with so I can get all the recesses with a brush and fill those in and you said a darker purple would be better to use?
I'm not 100% sure by what you mean with the sponge.
WIP on a chickenman... I started with the default screamer pink -> pink horror and similar blue highlights on the wings but it looked super bland so I took a leap of faith and started highlighting with green and yellow and skink blue on the pink. I think it looks pretty good so far.
I'm also learning that while I like the look of a painted squad of dudes, I really enjoy painting larger models.
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Focus on getting some good results on those plastic spoons you keep talking about, get to know what works and doesn't.
I'm sure 99% of your frustrating experiences could be alleviated with a bit of trial and error and focusing on one thing at a time. Slow down. Just from this thread alone I get the impression you bounce from thing to thing like a madman. Only to say you don't like painting, that your schemes are never as imagined.
Your knights went alright ( and more importantly you liked them too ), you had a plan, you stuck to it, you didnt go off the deep end too far with wild idead. You worked them to completion
Halfway through painting my ogors, I thought of a much cooler color scheme.
So, obviously, the only thing to do was to keep going.
Does the sight of the minis cause angels to weep tears of joy? No. Are they fully painted? Yes.
Real artists ship.
Yea, I do switch a lot between trying to paint stuff. Mostly I do it because I get frustrated with the other stuff I was trying to paint. The problem I'm running into with using the tamiya clear is that it brush paints like ass but looks good through an airbrush but then that means I need to airbrush the entire model and then paint between the points and armor segments silver again and then paint the chest silver which is going to suck because the gun is glued in. Honestly thinking about just breaking the arms off and gluing them back on later.
I have a lot of trouble with this. I've stripped the paint of some of my models multiple times now because I ended up not liking the paint scheme. If I don't like it I can't really get myself to continue because I no longer care.
I still want to try and do the fluorescent color thing for my Skaven but I don't know how to shade that and I'm also just not sure how good that would end up looking. Plus I have to do a lot of touch ups since I have to airbrush the fluorescent paint because it brush paints like absolute trash.
I really dislike doing conventional paint schemes for the most part. I'm fine with it for my Space Wolves but for my Necrons and Skaven I'd like to do something more interesting.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I just took it to every hardware store in the area until I found one with the correct fittings and adapters.
I think most inexpensive compressors are a 1/4 inch fitting?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I think mine is 1/4, I can't find the measurements on the amazon page though.
I did end up fixing the issue though. One of the airbrushes that came with the compressor has a hose that fits the new one perfectly so I was able to hook it up. Though I do feel like I need to unscrew the moisture trap and tighten it up again.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I can't stop laughing at the dainty little crown you put on top. It's this great little bit of incongruity.
Kudos to @Sharp101 for printing the crown on his fancy new liquid resin 3d printer. I plan on heavily abusing this aspect of our friendship.
I think I'm gonna ignore painting models for right now and paint up some warcry terrain in this theme. I know I want to do it and it should be fairly straight forward since it is all on buildings. I really appreciate the breakdown for the colors, I am so bad at figuring out what colors to use or how those colors were used like in the picture I posted.
I think I enjoy the more technical stuff in wargaming. Making interesting bases or making molds for resin copies of stuff. Kit bashing is fun and I want to start learning to properly sculpt green stuff for a project with my Skaven.
My Space Wolves and Space Wolves themed knights are pretty stress free because I know exactly what I'm doing there. I'm also doing my Rusty 17 AdMech in black robes with green and silver trim so that is pretty much decided but my favorite part of the knights was by far figuring out the LED lights for my castellan. I enjoyed that so much.
But yea, I'm doing these warcry buildings up, it is nothing complicated just a lot of dry brushing and building up the colors. Might have some airbrush action as well with the new airbrush. I don't go back to work till Friday so I can probably finish this terrain up.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What would be a food base for this scheme? I was gonna primer it ghost grey and then maybe a dark purple for the base and build up from there with dry brushing.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Assuming you mean "good base", I would think a grey or white primer with a medium-to-dark purple would work well. I say medium with the understanding that you use a red-brown wash in the creases, otherwise if you're just drybrushing you can start with a darker purple.
I did, the ginger bread terrain comes later.
I'm not sure if it would be easier to dry brush or air brush. I have been able to get pretty good transitions with an air brush so I might do it with that.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I try to never paint like more than 5 models at the same time. Only exception so far are Bloodbowl teams. With bigger models like Ogors, 20 at the same time would drive me insane.
Since I got fired I painted most of my tyranid warriors, half the wraithguard I have about 30 black templars most of my kill team about 40 necrons a carnifex. I half did a bunch of other models because I lacked paints or just got stuck
I have not painted anything since Nov because it was too cold to paint
I hope those toenails are getting painted up nice and pretty.
I also feel like I probably should stop airbrushing inside the house entirely. I am doing it in a pretty large room but there are puppies downstairs and I am spraying right into my booth with the fan that sucks up stuff but it still kind of makes me nervous so I might not finish this for a while. Or I could do it in the garage again or outside I guess. I don't know. I just don't feel comfortable airbrushing anymore.
Edit: yea, these details look clogged.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
gunna need some pictures of these puppies
Its been a fun few weeks
instagram.com/shiftedmatrix
How do you get the color on the nails/teeth like that?
@Bucketman thanks! The teeth and nails isn't too complicated, you want to start with a darker brown coat then apply progressively lighter colours, finishing with a bone white, but covering less and less of the tooth as you get lighter if that makes sense?
Start with something like Balor brown or Zandri Dust if you're using gw paints, then mixing in a little screaming skull for the next layer, then just pure screaming skull for the tip. Hope that helps!
PSN- AHermano
They came out pretty good.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I also think because I want to get the full color pallet of the picture I'm using for inspiration I'm gonna do the roses on the pieces from a dark pink up to a brighter on though I'm not sure how I should pull that off. The skulls I want to act as the light sources where the orange to red transitions happens so I'm gonna do that on each piece. Everything else is gonna go from purple up to pink as I move up the pieces.
The flash makes the purple look a little off. Here are some pics of current progress.
Edit: After thinking about it I think dry brushing might be the way to go. I'm very unsure of which will give me the right look.
Edit: I think once I get everything finished up I am gonna use some contrast medium and certain contrast paints to create a glaze and blend the transitions further.
Edit: I might be misunderstanding what inks are. I mixed inktensity red and mahogany from scale 75 and watered it down a bit and it was very overpowering and also kind of bubbly. Not sure what that is about. I think I need to give my dry brush and large shade brush a real good washing.
Edit: Also kind of worried because the shade brush scrapped off some of the purple paint and I had let it sit for about half an hour before even trying anything. I'm worried if I dry brush it is going to scrape the paint off real easy.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
You could always varnish them before drybrushing.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Digging up your source above, I think you have too bright a colour to start with, but maybe it'll even out once you get in the extremely light parts. You should probably focus on a single test piece and see if you like the results.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I figured the purple I used was too dark. I could do a shade of druhkari violet and then start laying brighter colors from there as I move up the piece.
I'm just really not sure where to go from here. I'm also unsure of the colors I need. For the building I'm doing that purple going up the stairs and it looks like there is some blue right before the transition into the sort of pink color but I'm not sure.
I do wish I had done this a little smarter though. I started with a ghost grey prime and I could have done a white prime with zenithal highlights and then gone from there.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Beyond that, I think you'd also get a lot of mileage out of using a chunky / damaged sponge to dab a stone texture. The image looks absolutely rife with that kind of patterning. Seems easier to do than a drybrush, and would still let you do an edge highlight to finish as desired.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Personally, I would have done one piece as a test scheme first before committing. Honestly I think you'ill be fine.
Hard agree on both points, AND I think you could and should do one test piece before you go full assembly line on the rest of the pieces.
Just do the thing, and stop worrying about fucking it up before you've even proven that you will.
I'm still gonna work on it and see what I can do and if I can make it work. Worst case scenario is I did screw up the scheme I wanted and I switch to something else with a purple base and do that and then try the scheme I wanted on something else. Maybe the warcry starter terrain if I can find it separate from the box.
I need to fix up the piece I tested the first shade with so I can get all the recesses with a brush and fill those in and you said a darker purple would be better to use?
I'm not 100% sure by what you mean with the sponge.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Home despot has the ideal on a larger scale
I'm also learning that while I like the look of a painted squad of dudes, I really enjoy painting larger models.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6