Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
I also can't seem to detect my third hard drive, but that might just be that when I was cable managing I unplugged it accidentally. But well, it's almost midnight, so reopening the computer is going to be for goddamn tomorrow.
Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
It is very frustrating.
You could try a PS/2 keyboard and mouse if you have that option available.
Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
It is very frustrating.
You could try a PS/2 keyboard and mouse if you have that option available.
Hilariously, this mobo doesn't actually have PS2 ports.
Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
It is very frustrating.
You could try a PS/2 keyboard and mouse if you have that option available.
Hilariously, this mobo doesn't actually have PS2 ports.
Sounds about right.
You might just have to take what files you can from the Win7 partition and repurpose that drive.
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The Escape Goatincorrigible ruminantthey/themRegistered Userregular
Yaaaaay case came in and the glass panel is cracked to hell. Guess I'm going to best buy today.
Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
It is very frustrating.
You could try a PS/2 keyboard and mouse if you have that option available.
Hilariously, this mobo doesn't actually have PS2 ports.
That's probably the standard now.
What am I going to do when I upgrade? I don't think I can handle a new keyboard. I think I've had the same HP-2502 keyboard my entire life; I've certainly used it on every single computer I've ever played a game on.
Well, balls. So, I built the computer. The Win 10 partition works. The Win 7 partition turns on and shows stuff and loads everything except the mouse and keyboard do not work.
I'm assuming it's a motherboard drivers problem, but I can't install new drivers if I can't hit install!
Are the USB headers plugged in to the mobo?
I mean, if they weren't the mouse and keyboard would hardly work in Win10, don't you think?
Besides, I'm plugging at the back directly into the mobo's back panel.
Also, I'm noticing weird temp fluctuations on the CPU. I worry that maybe the cooler did not seat properly, since we kinda had some trouble getting the AM4 holder to actually get in there. What's supposed to be reasonable temps for idle and load on this CPU, given an AIO cooler?
I'd ask what your temps are over ambient, i.e. how warm is it where you are vs what are the temps on the cooler?
It can't hurt to take a look at the cooler and reseat it.
Do the mouse and keyboard work in bios? Maybe hit the reset button on the CMOS?
They work in BIOS, yes. It's only in Win7 they don't work, I'm assuming windows tried to install drivers and derped.
But yeah, it's honestly kind of weird on the temps, because while total idling in Windows I see it go from 37ºC to sometimes up to 52ºC, but then I hit Monster Hunter World, which is reasonably CPU-intensive, and other than a momentary spike to 62ºC at the beginning it... seems to barely go up? As in, I was averaging like 45-50ºC. I guess the Corsair AIO doesn't really bother to do much unless work is being done, so the idle temps are higher than I'm expected to, but gets to work when shit starts.
Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
It is very frustrating.
You could try a PS/2 keyboard and mouse if you have that option available.
Hilariously, this mobo doesn't actually have PS2 ports.
That's probably the standard now.
What am I going to do when I upgrade? I don't think I can handle a new keyboard. I think I've had the same HP-2502 keyboard my entire life; I've certainly used it on every single computer I've ever played a game on.
Yaaaaay case came in and the glass panel is cracked to hell. Guess I'm going to best buy today.
They're swapping it for free but it won't be in until the 20th. There goes my weekend plans ;_;
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
With game installs getting bigger and bigger, I like the idea of just loading the whole fucking game into RAM at the start and just going with that.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited February 2020
I think you'll see high end RAM taper off, but speeds continue to increase. That will be the big performance gains right there. I bet we'll see 16gb of VRAM standard on the 3xxx series Nvidia cards though. I'm out of the PC game testing scene, but are people even seeing big increases with 32gb over 16gb system ram for gaming rigs? If so is it resolution dependent or not?
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
System RAM amount has almost no bearing on gaming performance at any resolution provided you meet some basic minimum (which these days is considered 16GB). It's really about the thousand other things your PC Is doing while playing a game.
@Drascin I'm assuming you're using the USB 2.0 ports at the top of the IO? If your Win7 install isn't new, you may need to load the new motherboard drivers from another computer, if you can do that.
It's a bit crazy, but you may need to pick up an add-in card for either USB 2/1.1 or PS/2 (you can get USB to PS/2 adapters for the kb/mouse) at least until you can get the proper mobo drivers installed. Your board also has headers for USB 2.0/1.1 but I'm still trying to find a screenshot of the header to see if you can maybe plug in part of the USB 3 header to make it USB 2 (though I don't think it works that way).
I think I might have damaged my GPU when I transfered it over for this new build. It's fine when idling, but once it gets under load, it sounds like it's rattling off kilter
i mean 8gb of RAM was considered perfectly fine from 2010 up until 2017/18.
a ton of people are still making do with 8gb.
Linus installed 2TB of ram on a special mobo and opened hundreds (thousands?) of google chrome tabs. the PC got super slow and crashy long long before the ram got to 50%. CPU also was not maxed, but the pc simply could not deal with it.
I remember turning off a billion processes and services in 2004 just to get Far Cry 1 playable with decent load times. We're so far beyond that, even with "not too much" ram.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited February 2020
Chrome tabs effectively use an OS process each, that's how they are isolated. He likely ran in to kernel level limits on processes and open network connections. Seeing how many Chrome tabs you can open isn't exactly the first test I'd reach for trying to stress out 2TB of RAM but I guess it's a fun demonstration of overloading the system with requests for resource handles.
FWIW, I just took a spin in docker on WSL2 and it happily ate up a good 15 gigs of memory before I shut it down (and then didn't release it until I reset the computer).
@Drascin There may be a option in your bios to change your USB ports to a legacy mode that will allow them to work in windows 7. I can't guarantee that there is one, but it's worth checking.
@Drascin There may be a option in your bios to change your USB ports to a legacy mode that will allow them to work in windows 7. I can't guarantee that there is one, but it's worth checking.
Yes, it looks like you need to go into the BIOS and enable advanced mode (F2), then go to Settings>IO Ports>USB Configuration and make sure "Legacy USB Support" and "Port 60/64 Emulation" are enabled.
A couple months ago, I swapped my boot SSD with an M2 from Sabrent (relatively) painlessly.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
A couple months ago, I swapped my boot SSD with an M2 from Sabrent (relatively) painlessly.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
When I had a Z97 board, I used this cheap adapter to put my NVME drive in a PCI-e slot instead of the onboard m2 slot. It seemed to work just as fast/well.
This should leave you the other PCI-e slot for your wireless card.
A couple months ago, I swapped my boot SSD with an M2 from Sabrent (relatively) painlessly.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
When I had a Z97 board, I used this cheap adapter to put my NVME drive in a PCI-e slot instead of the onboard m2 slot. It seemed to work just as fast/well.
This should leave you the other PCI-e slot for your wireless card.
Wow. That's definitely not a solution I ever thought of, I didn't even know you could get Nvme to PCI-Ex adapters. I'm not 100% certain I could get it working, especially since I never had two PCI-ex devices simultaneously active on my motherboard, but that's still a pretty cool solution. Some of the reviews suggest this might actually be preferable to the M2 slots on older motherboards (like the Z97-A)...
Do you remember having to go into your BIOS and switch off from M2 mode when you installed it?
A couple months ago, I swapped my boot SSD with an M2 from Sabrent (relatively) painlessly.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
When I had a Z97 board, I used this cheap adapter to put my NVME drive in a PCI-e slot instead of the onboard m2 slot. It seemed to work just as fast/well.
This should leave you the other PCI-e slot for your wireless card.
Wow. That's definitely not a solution I ever thought of, I didn't even know you could get Nvme to PCI-Ex adapters. I'm not 100% certain I could get it working, especially since I never had two PCI-ex devices simultaneously active on my motherboard, but that's still a pretty cool solution, even if there probably is some performance loss.
You could also look into other non-wifi options. Powerline adapters have worked well for lots of people in the networking thread. In my house I've had very good luck with google wifi mesh networking (you can plug a computer into one of the satellite APs via ethernet).
A couple months ago, I swapped my boot SSD with an M2 from Sabrent (relatively) painlessly.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
When I had a Z97 board, I used this cheap adapter to put my NVME drive in a PCI-e slot instead of the onboard m2 slot. It seemed to work just as fast/well.
This should leave you the other PCI-e slot for your wireless card.
Wow. That's definitely not a solution I ever thought of, I didn't even know you could get Nvme to PCI-Ex adapters. I'm not 100% certain I could get it working, especially since I never had two PCI-ex devices simultaneously active on my motherboard, but that's still a pretty cool solution, even if there probably is some performance loss.
You could also look into other non-wifi options. Powerline adapters have worked well for lots of people in the networking thread. In my house I've had very good luck with google wifi mesh networking (you can plug a computer into one of the satellite APs via ethernet).
I may not have explained it well: I normally use wired ethernet for my desktop PC. But wireless projection, and a few other specific use cases, don't work over wired connections. Only wireless ones. In effect, some of Windows 10's own wireless-only functionality is disabled because since going into M2 mode, my desktop has no wireless capacity (bluetooth doesn't count).
Yeah, it's kind of a pain, but it's common enough that I bought an ASUS Wireless AC card (with BT) in the first place.
EDIT: Not to knock your suggestion, @Pixelated Pixie , but I found a PCI-express x4 solution that had a review by a user using the Z97-A (and considering I have three of those, and only two PCI-Ex slots, I might as well use them). Really, I'd be willing to pay the (modest) price for a adapter if it's any improvement over the base M2 speeds on Z97-A (which are unsurprisingly not that fast).
A couple months ago, I swapped my boot SSD with an M2 from Sabrent (relatively) painlessly.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
When I had a Z97 board, I used this cheap adapter to put my NVME drive in a PCI-e slot instead of the onboard m2 slot. It seemed to work just as fast/well.
This should leave you the other PCI-e slot for your wireless card.
Wow. That's definitely not a solution I ever thought of, I didn't even know you could get Nvme to PCI-Ex adapters. I'm not 100% certain I could get it working, especially since I never had two PCI-ex devices simultaneously active on my motherboard, but that's still a pretty cool solution, even if there probably is some performance loss.
You could also look into other non-wifi options. Powerline adapters have worked well for lots of people in the networking thread. In my house I've had very good luck with google wifi mesh networking (you can plug a computer into one of the satellite APs via ethernet).
I may not have explained it well: I normally use wired ethernet for my desktop PC. But wireless projection, and a few other specific use cases, don't work over wired connections. Only wireless ones. In effect, some of Windows 10's own wireless-only functionality is disabled because since going into M2 mode, my desktop has no wireless capacity (bluetooth doesn't count).
Yeah, it's kind of a pain, but it's common enough that I bought an ASUS Wireless AC card (with BT) in the first place.
EDIT: Not to knock your suggestion, Pixelated Pixie , but I found a PCI-express x4 solution that had a review by a user using the Z97-A (and considering I have three of those, and only two PCI-Ex slots, I might as well use them). Really, I'd be willing to pay the (modest) price for a adapter if it's any improvement over the base M2 speeds on Z97-A (which are unsurprisingly not that fast).
You can put a 1x card in a 16x slot if you want to. If I had seen this earlier I would have asked, using an M.2 drive disables every other PCI-E slot on your motherboard other than the 16X graphics card slot?
So what's my best bet for one of those fancy SSDs that connect via a socket on the motherboard than via SATA?
I have a Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero Motherboard, so it's got the PCIE 4 stuff. I was leaning towards a 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, but I'm not sure if that's the one that'll use the port to the best?
So what's my best bet for one of those fancy SSDs that connect via a socket on the motherboard than via SATA?
I have a Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero Motherboard, so it's got the PCIE 4 stuff. I was leaning towards a 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, but I'm not sure if that's the one that'll use the port to the best?
There's really not an advantage for the first gen PCIE4 drives. Even AMD aren't recommending them for Threadripper 3990 reviews because they're optimised for throughout not IOPs.
That board should have 2 M.2 sockets - get a mid range Nvme like the Adata, Sabrent or Pioneer with TLC flash, that should hold you fine until PCiE4 options become a bit better IMO
I took you guys advice and picked up Control. First thing i did was max out all the settings to see what i could do. the games been running great for the most part, but one thing that i keep running into and im not sure if its just how the game is, or if one of my settings is off. if i go into a darkened room, its like pitch black. I mean like there is almost no ambient light from the room or hallway i just left showing into the new room. maybe this is just going for realism (or surrealism in this games case) the only thing i see inside are small lights like from the loot caches or a monitor screen, but even those should be casting more light into the room then they actually are. I tried lowering all the shadow features in the settings, dont see any changes. any idea what setting could be causing this?
It's a Z97 board, which I'm fairly certain was one of the first generation of boards with M.2 slots.
Yeah, though I'm taking it for granted that a PCI-Express 16 slot should still work.The board can do Tri-SLI for god sakes.
(I'm prepared to be proven wrong, so I also ordered a well-recommended USB AC adapter for about the same price.)
I'd have to dig it up. In this case, it's more about how many PCIE lanes the board and CPU can support. For example, tri-SLI will run at either 1*x16 + 2*x8 or 2*x8 + 2*x4 depending on CPU. (ref https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150_ )
I'm trying to dig into how many lanes your CPU and board specifically support but I can't find it.
We may be talking about two different things. My point is that the board handles M.2 integration differently than some other boards; and the CPU can only handle so much I/O. For example, my B450 Tomahawk MAX disables the SATA 5 and 6 ports to enable the singular NVMe M.2. In the case of your board, it sounds like either the M.2 was duct taped on as a selling feature, or the way it's implemented into the chipset is just....odd (i.e. I would expect SATA ports to be disabled instead of the x1 or x2 PCIe slots). My assumption is the chipset designers made the assumption people would take more advantage of the SATA slots than the extra PCIe slots.
And like others have said, you can definitely plug your current PCIe card into one of the x16 slots and it should work just fine.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I took you guys advice and picked up Control. First thing i did was max out all the settings to see what i could do. the games been running great for the most part, but one thing that i keep running into and im not sure if its just how the game is, or if one of my settings is off. if i go into a darkened room, its like pitch black. I mean like there is almost no ambient light from the room or hallway i just left showing into the new room. maybe this is just going for realism (or surrealism in this games case) the only thing i see inside are small lights like from the loot caches or a monitor screen, but even those should be casting more light into the room then they actually are. I tried lowering all the shadow features in the settings, dont see any changes. any idea what setting could be causing this?
It's a Z97 board, which I'm fairly certain was one of the first generation of boards with M.2 slots.
Yeah, though I'm taking it for granted that a PCI-Express 16 slot should still work.The board can do Tri-SLI for god sakes.
(I'm prepared to be proven wrong, so I also ordered a well-recommended USB AC adapter for about the same price.)
I'd have to dig it up. In this case, it's more about how many PCIE lanes the board and CPU can support. For example, tri-SLI will run at either 1*x16 + 2*x8 or 2*x8 + 2*x4 depending on CPU. (ref https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150_ )
I'm trying to dig into how many lanes your CPU and board specifically support but I can't find it.
We may be talking about two different things. My point is that the board handles M.2 integration differently than some other boards; and the CPU can only handle so much I/O. For example, my B450 Tomahawk MAX disables the SATA 5 and 6 ports to enable the singular NVMe M.2. In the case of your board, it sounds like either the M.2 was duct taped on as a selling feature, or the way it's implemented into the chipset is just....odd (i.e. I would expect SATA ports to be disabled instead of the x1 or x2 PCIe slots). My assumption is the chipset designers made the assumption people would take more advantage of the SATA slots than the extra PCIe slots.
And like others have said, you can definitely plug your current PCIe card into one of the x16 slots and it should work just fine.
True. I clearly don't understand all the nuances, but I'm prepared for it to still not work. That being said, a speed improvement over the PCI Adapter (which some have referenced) over the M2 slot would justify the low price (of course, it could also see a speed disadvantage), even if it doesn't let me simultaneously use the AC wifi expansion.
The USB AC antenna with BT was the second option.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Hmmmm I'm surprised to see reports of Nvidia's next gen cards - ampere - possibly be launched during GTC, that's only in March.
I'm thinking we'll get some info and maybe a launch date, but still, I'm dying to see what those benchmarks look like.
I'm dreading to see what those MSRP's look like
If Nvidia--and by extension, effectively everyone else--wants to keep me priced out of ray-tracing as a standard, well, that's their prerogative. I've had a UHD monitor for four years now, and my GTX 1080 Ti hasn't shown any signs of slowing down. And there are consoles...
I took you guys advice and picked up Control. First thing i did was max out all the settings to see what i could do. the games been running great for the most part, but one thing that i keep running into and im not sure if its just how the game is, or if one of my settings is off. if i go into a darkened room, its like pitch black. I mean like there is almost no ambient light from the room or hallway i just left showing into the new room. maybe this is just going for realism (or surrealism in this games case) the only thing i see inside are small lights like from the loot caches or a monitor screen, but even those should be casting more light into the room then they actually are. I tried lowering all the shadow features in the settings, dont see any changes. any idea what setting could be causing this?
Ambient occlusion?
Or you can try upping the contrast maybe
general brightness levels just make it a washed out black, so unless the game itself is doing this on purpose, i think its just a setting. none of the other games ive tried on it are doing this but most of them are pretty old or not really using the super aspects of the card.
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Ryzen isn't compatible with Win 7. That may be a big reason the peripherals don't work.
I think you should be fine with your temps. You may be able to adjust the curve of the pump/fans and get it to cool more/set the target temps down, but what you've got should be okay.
The drivers I downloaded for the mobo, which is an AM4 board for Ryzen 3000s, do say Windows 7/8/10. It's just I can't actually install them. Because I have no mouse or keyboard.
It is very frustrating.
You could try a PS/2 keyboard and mouse if you have that option available.
Hilariously, this mobo doesn't actually have PS2 ports.
Sounds about right.
You might just have to take what files you can from the Win7 partition and repurpose that drive.
That's probably the standard now.
What am I going to do when I upgrade? I don't think I can handle a new keyboard. I think I've had the same HP-2502 keyboard my entire life; I've certainly used it on every single computer I've ever played a game on.
They still make usb-ps2 converters, right?
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10934
I use this for an IBM Spacesaver II /w trackpoint that I found.
They're swapping it for free but it won't be in until the 20th. There goes my weekend plans ;_;
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
If the Win7 partition is new, you may just need to add USB3 drivers to get it working. Something like this could potentially work, but you'll need access to a disk drive. http://woshub.com/adding-usb-3-0-controller-drivers-to-windows-7-install-media/
It's a bit crazy, but you may need to pick up an add-in card for either USB 2/1.1 or PS/2 (you can get USB to PS/2 adapters for the kb/mouse) at least until you can get the proper mobo drivers installed. Your board also has headers for USB 2.0/1.1 but I'm still trying to find a screenshot of the header to see if you can maybe plug in part of the USB 3 header to make it USB 2 (though I don't think it works that way).
a ton of people are still making do with 8gb.
Linus installed 2TB of ram on a special mobo and opened hundreds (thousands?) of google chrome tabs. the PC got super slow and crashy long long before the ram got to 50%. CPU also was not maxed, but the pc simply could not deal with it.
I remember turning off a billion processes and services in 2004 just to get Far Cry 1 playable with decent load times. We're so far beyond that, even with "not too much" ram.
Yes, it looks like you need to go into the BIOS and enable advanced mode (F2), then go to Settings>IO Ports>USB Configuration and make sure "Legacy USB Support" and "Port 60/64 Emulation" are enabled.
Today, I realized that I'd been living in ignorance: M2 mode on my motherboard disables both PCI-Ex slots (x1 and x2) on my motherboard. So my wireless card was effectively a USB-Bluetooth device that fits up one of my slots, to my mild embarrassment.
There doesn't seem to be any way around this (swapping between both PCI-E slots made no difference, and switching from M2 mode makes the Sabrent 1TB Rocket useless). I think my Z97-A is just old and not intended for this use case.
Is there anything else I should do besides looking up non-crappy alternatives? Conversely, would anyone like to recommend me a non-crappy Wireless Card (Wifi+Bluetooth) that uses USB (or "Not PCI-E", I guess).
When I had a Z97 board, I used this cheap adapter to put my NVME drive in a PCI-e slot instead of the onboard m2 slot. It seemed to work just as fast/well.
This should leave you the other PCI-e slot for your wireless card.
Wow. That's definitely not a solution I ever thought of, I didn't even know you could get Nvme to PCI-Ex adapters. I'm not 100% certain I could get it working, especially since I never had two PCI-ex devices simultaneously active on my motherboard, but that's still a pretty cool solution. Some of the reviews suggest this might actually be preferable to the M2 slots on older motherboards (like the Z97-A)...
Do you remember having to go into your BIOS and switch off from M2 mode when you installed it?
EDIT: Wow, this is a whole rabbit hole to dive down into. You could pair an M2 with something like this if you wanted more USB 3.0 ports.
You could also look into other non-wifi options. Powerline adapters have worked well for lots of people in the networking thread. In my house I've had very good luck with google wifi mesh networking (you can plug a computer into one of the satellite APs via ethernet).
I may not have explained it well: I normally use wired ethernet for my desktop PC. But wireless projection, and a few other specific use cases, don't work over wired connections. Only wireless ones. In effect, some of Windows 10's own wireless-only functionality is disabled because since going into M2 mode, my desktop has no wireless capacity (bluetooth doesn't count).
Yeah, it's kind of a pain, but it's common enough that I bought an ASUS Wireless AC card (with BT) in the first place.
EDIT: Not to knock your suggestion, @Pixelated Pixie , but I found a PCI-express x4 solution that had a review by a user using the Z97-A (and considering I have three of those, and only two PCI-Ex slots, I might as well use them). Really, I'd be willing to pay the (modest) price for a adapter if it's any improvement over the base M2 speeds on Z97-A (which are unsurprisingly not that fast).
You can put a 1x card in a 16x slot if you want to. If I had seen this earlier I would have asked, using an M.2 drive disables every other PCI-E slot on your motherboard other than the 16X graphics card slot?
Yeah, though I'm taking it for granted that a PCI-Express 16 slot should still work.The board can do Tri-SLI for god sakes.
(I'm prepared to be proven wrong, so I also ordered a well-recommended USB AC adapter for about the same price.)
I have a Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero Motherboard, so it's got the PCIE 4 stuff. I was leaning towards a 1TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus, but I'm not sure if that's the one that'll use the port to the best?
There's really not an advantage for the first gen PCIE4 drives. Even AMD aren't recommending them for Threadripper 3990 reviews because they're optimised for throughout not IOPs.
That board should have 2 M.2 sockets - get a mid range Nvme like the Adata, Sabrent or Pioneer with TLC flash, that should hold you fine until PCiE4 options become a bit better IMO
got a 2080 super and a PG278AQ Asus monitor.
I took you guys advice and picked up Control. First thing i did was max out all the settings to see what i could do. the games been running great for the most part, but one thing that i keep running into and im not sure if its just how the game is, or if one of my settings is off. if i go into a darkened room, its like pitch black. I mean like there is almost no ambient light from the room or hallway i just left showing into the new room. maybe this is just going for realism (or surrealism in this games case) the only thing i see inside are small lights like from the loot caches or a monitor screen, but even those should be casting more light into the room then they actually are. I tried lowering all the shadow features in the settings, dont see any changes. any idea what setting could be causing this?
I'd have to dig it up. In this case, it's more about how many PCIE lanes the board and CPU can support. For example, tri-SLI will run at either 1*x16 + 2*x8 or 2*x8 + 2*x4 depending on CPU. (ref https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150_ )
I'm trying to dig into how many lanes your CPU and board specifically support but I can't find it.
We may be talking about two different things. My point is that the board handles M.2 integration differently than some other boards; and the CPU can only handle so much I/O. For example, my B450 Tomahawk MAX disables the SATA 5 and 6 ports to enable the singular NVMe M.2. In the case of your board, it sounds like either the M.2 was duct taped on as a selling feature, or the way it's implemented into the chipset is just....odd (i.e. I would expect SATA ports to be disabled instead of the x1 or x2 PCIe slots). My assumption is the chipset designers made the assumption people would take more advantage of the SATA slots than the extra PCIe slots.
And like others have said, you can definitely plug your current PCIe card into one of the x16 slots and it should work just fine.
Ambient occlusion?
Or you can try upping the contrast maybe
I'm thinking we'll get some info and maybe a launch date, but still, I'm dying to see what those benchmarks look like.
True. I clearly don't understand all the nuances, but I'm prepared for it to still not work. That being said, a speed improvement over the PCI Adapter (which some have referenced) over the M2 slot would justify the low price (of course, it could also see a speed disadvantage), even if it doesn't let me simultaneously use the AC wifi expansion.
The USB AC antenna with BT was the second option.
I'm dreading to see what those MSRP's look like
If Nvidia--and by extension, effectively everyone else--wants to keep me priced out of ray-tracing as a standard, well, that's their prerogative. I've had a UHD monitor for four years now, and my GTX 1080 Ti hasn't shown any signs of slowing down. And there are consoles...
general brightness levels just make it a washed out black, so unless the game itself is doing this on purpose, i think its just a setting. none of the other games ive tried on it are doing this but most of them are pretty old or not really using the super aspects of the card.