Does anyone here either A) Do commission work or know someone who does commission work?
I enjoy collecting armies and playing 40k, and I love painting, but I don't think my time available to paint will ever catch up with what I have collected and built.
I'm cool playing with grey plastic, but it would be cool to have more painted stuff at home... it has me toying with the idea of shipping out some of my plastic for commission paintjobs.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I haven't done any work at all on the terrain since counting the skulls. I think I'm having motivation trouble again. I kind of want to try and figure out how I want to paint my plague monks for now and switch gears but I also don't want to switch until the terrain is done.
Just google Dungeons and Doggies and it pops up. It's a fully set up fan made expansion for DnD where you get to be a dog. They have like 12-18 minis so far.
I will do that. I really like the minis so far.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I haven't done any work at all on the terrain since counting the skulls. I think I'm having motivation trouble again. I kind of want to try and figure out how I want to paint my plague monks for now and switch gears but I also don't want to switch until the terrain is done.
Just google Dungeons and Doggies and it pops up. It's a fully set up fan made expansion for DnD where you get to be a dog. They have like 12-18 minis so far.
I will do that. I really like the minis so far.
I've done two now in about a week. They're lovely models. My biggest issue is you have to give them a super good scrub with soap or Simple Green to get a bad coating of release powder off.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
So I started painting stuff again. Decided to just try for an Ad Mech kill team to start with since I've struggled to stay focused on one army in the past.
Not totally happy with these guys. I'm wondering if Mars-style bases would work better, to complement the red? Also I'm noticing there's kind of a gritty texture on the red especially. Maybe I'm not thinning my paint enough?
fray on
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I decided I'm going to paint my plague monk robes in a teal color and I'm going to paint them as albino lab rats. Still not sure if I want to do colorshift on the metal parts though.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Hey so I'm working on the base for my doggo, and I'm using some of the battlefield grass from army painter. Should I apply all the grass first, let it set up then glue my mini onto the base through it, or glue the mini first and grass around him?
Because I got two squads of Death company for a trade I decided to work on making a small flesh tearers army {since I was quite jealous of the blood angels and successor chapters stuff they get}
But looking to see if others used the pauldrons on the sprue since they are blood angel ish most just I saw bought the assault marines and said they were death company
Hey so I'm working on the base for my doggo, and I'm using some of the battlefield grass from army painter. Should I apply all the grass first, let it set up then glue my mini onto the base through it, or glue the mini first and grass around him?
Grass after
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Hey so I'm working on the base for my doggo, and I'm using some of the battlefield grass from army painter. Should I apply all the grass first, let it set up then glue my mini onto the base through it, or glue the mini first and grass around him?
I decided I'm going to paint my plague monk robes in a teal color and I'm going to paint them as albino lab rats. Still not sure if I want to do colorshift on the metal parts though.
You were planning to use contrast, right?
Contrast requires a very light primer, and color shift a glossy black primer. For the number of plague monks you have to do, I would never use a paint scheme that required to different primers.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I decided I'm going to paint my plague monk robes in a teal color and I'm going to paint them as albino lab rats. Still not sure if I want to do colorshift on the metal parts though.
You were planning to use contrast, right?
Contrast requires a very light primer, and color shift a glossy black primer. For the number of plague monks you have to do, I would never use a paint scheme that required to different primers.
Contrast is pretty much only for the robes and wood.
It is gonna be tedious but potentially worth it. There aren't really that many metal parts besides the swords so it will at the very least be straight forward.
I still need to find something to test brush painting colorshift on as well.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Question how how you guys have your painting setups.. well set up. At the moment I currently use a small bookshelf and my computer desk but I just don't have the room to comfortably have everything accessible and what not.
Do you guys set up a separate station to paint at? I'm thinking of getting a separate desk that abuts my desk with painting gear on it that's also a few inches higher (current desk is short enough that hurts my back when i put both elbows down.)
I've been poking around looking for similar inspiration on my setup. I had the whole right side of this desk filled with small drawers and boxes and stuff and decided I wanted a cleaner space but it's maybe too sparse now? I need some organization for all the tools and bits for the 'assembly' side of the desk, at least.
Either way, having a dedicated table just for hobby stuff is probably the best thing I've done for hobby productivity. It's nice to not have to make space every time I want to do something. The lights are a recent addition and similarly a huge help having two of them.
Yeah, I'm currently hitting that funk of needing to push around my monitors, get my paint rack off a shelf, pallette off a different one, models from here or there where after looking at this and a few different set up's i'll buy a small desk and just have it up against the back of my current one and have the hobby stuff there in bins, saves me rearranging everything when i want to paint.
I decided I'm going to paint my plague monk robes in a teal color and I'm going to paint them as albino lab rats. Still not sure if I want to do colorshift on the metal parts though.
You were planning to use contrast, right?
Contrast requires a very light primer, and color shift a glossy black primer. For the number of plague monks you have to do, I would never use a paint scheme that required to different primers.
Color shifting metal is different and the primer more or less doesnt matter(on the metal bits) because the metallic is solid enough coat anyways. Also colorshift on metallic takes a lot of coats to get a good effect, but I think Stragint tested all that already and knows what hes in for. On plague monks if its just basically the knives it should be easy enough to swipe both sides and do it all in batches.
DiannaoChong on
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Does anyone here either A) Do commission work or know someone who does commission work?
I enjoy collecting armies and playing 40k, and I love painting, but I don't think my time available to paint will ever catch up with what I have collected and built.
I'm cool playing with grey plastic, but it would be cool to have more painted stuff at home... it has me toying with the idea of shipping out some of my plastic for commission paintjobs.
Does anyone here either A) Do commission work or know someone who does commission work?
I enjoy collecting armies and playing 40k, and I love painting, but I don't think my time available to paint will ever catch up with what I have collected and built.
I'm cool playing with grey plastic, but it would be cool to have more painted stuff at home... it has me toying with the idea of shipping out some of my plastic for commission paintjobs.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited February 2020
So the colorshift paint I am using on the test model is coming out as a pretty nice turquoise/teal color on wraithbone primer. I've done 4 or 5 coats so far and absolutely no colorshift is occuring. I figured it wouldn't have the same color but not that it wouldn't work at all. The other half of the model that I brush painted the gloss black primer with one coat is doing ever so slightly better. I can at least see extremely faint shifting so after about 4 or 5 coats I think I'll have the desired level. Just gotta keep it super thin.
Brush painting the primer sucked though. I added a bit of water to it but it was so thin. Took me almost 4 coats but I still think the sharpest edges of this test model were only faintly tinted black and still poked through. Next test I'm not gonna thin the primer.
Edit: Two things
Definitely want to thin the primer. I painted some thinned and unthinned primer on a sprue piece. The unthinned was not good.
Other thing, I don't think the new colorshift paints I bought are working. I tried running them through an airbrush on some spoons and it looks real bad. Basically sparkly colored metallics. No shifting at all. At least none that I can see. I'm not sure what is wrong.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
so my gaming groups 40k Orc and Eldar players are getting married.
I would like to do themed cake toppers for them.
anyone know where I could get my hands on a female orc mini? (or a guy I could convert without too much trouble) prefer wearing a dress but I can greenstuff that if I have to.
would prefer proper 40k looking orc rather than sexy green muscle lady with bad dental if I can.
so my gaming groups 40k Orc and Eldar players are getting married.
I would like to do themed cake toppers for them.
anyone know where I could get my hands on a female orc mini? (or a guy I could convert without too much trouble) prefer wearing a dress but I can greenstuff that if I have to.
would prefer proper 40k looking orc rather than sexy green muscle lady with bad dental if I can.
The only GW female orc minis I can think of are old cheerleader models for Blood Bowl.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I'd forgotten them. I seem to recall there was an older, shall we say saggier, model. Also fewer clothes.
Chrysis on
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Finished up the test model for the paint scheme for my pestilens.
I did a zenithal, chaos black with Wraithbone from above.
I used some terradon turquoise mixed with contrast medium as the base coat. I did two coats of it. Next I did a dry brush with sotek green and then temple guard blue. I like how it came out and I think it will look good with the albino lab rat plan I have thanks to a friend of mine.
I might buy another bottle if contrast medium and pour half of it into my current bottle and then pour half if the terradon turquoise into the half empty contrast bottle so I don't have to keep mixing stuff.
Also, with the huge failure in the colorshift paint (I emailed green stuff world about the apparently defunct paint) I think I'll just make all the metal on at least the pestilens models hella rusty.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+2
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
GSW’s shifting paints only work over a dark background. They have videos on their site demonstrating this. The answer you’re gonna get back is “apply over gloss black background” or similar. Assuming they don’t try to sue you for copyright infringement, at least.
GSW’s shifting paints only work over a dark background. They have videos on their site demonstrating this. The answer you’re gonna get back is “apply over gloss black background” or similar. Assuming they don’t try to sue you for copyright infringement, at least.
Yea, that is why I included all I did with the paint. Applied over gloss black by brush and airbrush. Did it both thinned with flow improver and without in the airbrush. I covered my bases to hopefully avoid questions and work towards a solution.
When I did the colorshift paint from the series 1 and 2 paints from GSW over my Tau kill team it came out great. This series 3 set is just not working. The one I was most looking forward to, evil forest, doesn't work in the slightest. It is just a green paint, no shifting into the red at all. The painted named pinky blue came out as a sparkly silver.
At first I thought the issues was that I was brushing painting the colorshift paint but then I checked the website and it said brush painting was fine. Then I tested then all through an airbrush.
It's whatever, I'll see what happens with GSW. I was really hoping for something more interesting that dirty/rusty weapons on my plague monks but oh well at this point.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I managed to turn the start kit box iron golem warband into 1000 pts exactly with a few minor conversions (it's about 970 if built to instructions).
This legionnary should have had a shield, but I repurposed a leftover arm from the signifer/prefector and the bolas he's supposed to have in his belt. So now he's a legionnary with bolas.
This signifer should have been a legionnare with shield and hammer. The old hammer arm is holding the icon (the hand is comically oversized, so it'll be painted as a glove). The new hammer arm is a replacement for the shield arm, with the hammer from the signifer and a left-over arm from the untamed beasts.
The others were built as stock.
List is Dominar, Breacher, Drillmaster, Signifer, Prefector, Armator, 2x bolas legionnary.
(Stock is Dominar, Breacher, Drillmaster, Signifer or Prefector, Armator, bolas or twin hammer legionnary, 2x shield legionnary.)
I finally finished building (but not painting) two custom ogor heroes. I mentioned in the fantasy thread a desire to make candy-themed ogors, so here's my counts-as butcher, the Candyman.
He has a chef's hat on his head, the staff will be painted as a giant candy cane, his backpack front pocket and apron pocket holds more candy canes (there will be some on his base, too). The giant club thing is a chupa chup-style lollipop, and an old-fashioned one (as well as a bar of chokolate and yet another candy cane) is in his backpack.
I also made a two-headed chaos ogre ogor as a counts-as firebelly. Their right half is female and it's left half is male, like slaanesh daemons.
I call them Mogor the Ogor.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Im super glad i tried the gloss technique over the matte clear coat. It doesn't show up a ton in the photo but in hand the health potions, his tongue and nose, and a couple other spots really shine.
Work in progress chickenman... finally finished coat number one on all the gold widgets. Every time I think I've finished something I notice something I still need to paint, so I've sat back and written a list of what I still need to do on him to finish him. Hoping this week... my wife is at work tomorrow night, so that might be the final push. Washes are drying right now, so I think it's time to play some Apex.
My suspicion is that ryza rust would sort of blend into the background color of a gold-colored metal, and not provide an interesting contrast. I haven't tried it to see, though, and I've been wrong about that sort of thing before.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
edited February 2020
Knocked this guy out this week
Vanguard on
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
Gold shouldn’t but brass is just an alloy of base metals so how it rusts will be dependent on them. Typically though it will rust verdigris green due to the copper content.
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
Gold shouldn’t but brass is just an alloy of base metals so how it rusts will be dependent on them. Typically though it will rust verdigris green due to the copper content.
I know that I was on my phone replying and waiting till I came home to talk about Verdigris
As it's doable with little effort
But I feel doing it in bits and pieces would be a better look than on all
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
On an unrelated note, I've been churning through some boners (spoiler'd because they're probably fuckhuge and I'm too lazy to re-size them):
Posts
I enjoy collecting armies and playing 40k, and I love painting, but I don't think my time available to paint will ever catch up with what I have collected and built.
I'm cool playing with grey plastic, but it would be cool to have more painted stuff at home... it has me toying with the idea of shipping out some of my plastic for commission paintjobs.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I will do that. I really like the minis so far.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've done two now in about a week. They're lovely models. My biggest issue is you have to give them a super good scrub with soap or Simple Green to get a bad coating of release powder off.
Not totally happy with these guys. I'm wondering if Mars-style bases would work better, to complement the red? Also I'm noticing there's kind of a gritty texture on the red especially. Maybe I'm not thinning my paint enough?
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
But looking to see if others used the pauldrons on the sprue since they are blood angel ish most just I saw bought the assault marines and said they were death company
Grass after
Awesome thanks
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
You were planning to use contrast, right?
Contrast requires a very light primer, and color shift a glossy black primer. For the number of plague monks you have to do, I would never use a paint scheme that required to different primers.
Contrast is pretty much only for the robes and wood.
It is gonna be tedious but potentially worth it. There aren't really that many metal parts besides the swords so it will at the very least be straight forward.
I still need to find something to test brush painting colorshift on as well.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah, I'm currently hitting that funk of needing to push around my monitors, get my paint rack off a shelf, pallette off a different one, models from here or there where after looking at this and a few different set up's i'll buy a small desk and just have it up against the back of my current one and have the hobby stuff there in bins, saves me rearranging everything when i want to paint.
Want to play co-op games? Feel free to hit me up!
Ayyyup.
Indeed
Color shifting metal is different and the primer more or less doesnt matter(on the metal bits) because the metallic is solid enough coat anyways. Also colorshift on metallic takes a lot of coats to get a good effect, but I think Stragint tested all that already and knows what hes in for. On plague monks if its just basically the knives it should be easy enough to swipe both sides and do it all in batches.
I know the guys involved with this outfit: https://www.darkbunnycreatives.com/
I highly recommend them, especially after checking out their Daemon Mortarion freehanded wings.
Ooooohhhhhh maaaaaaan do I love that squig army!
They do some really incredible work.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Brush painting the primer sucked though. I added a bit of water to it but it was so thin. Took me almost 4 coats but I still think the sharpest edges of this test model were only faintly tinted black and still poked through. Next test I'm not gonna thin the primer.
Edit: Two things
Definitely want to thin the primer. I painted some thinned and unthinned primer on a sprue piece. The unthinned was not good.
Other thing, I don't think the new colorshift paints I bought are working. I tried running them through an airbrush on some spoons and it looks real bad. Basically sparkly colored metallics. No shifting at all. At least none that I can see. I'm not sure what is wrong.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I would like to do themed cake toppers for them.
anyone know where I could get my hands on a female orc mini? (or a guy I could convert without too much trouble) prefer wearing a dress but I can greenstuff that if I have to.
would prefer proper 40k looking orc rather than sexy green muscle lady with bad dental if I can.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
The only GW female orc minis I can think of are old cheerleader models for Blood Bowl.
https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Blood-Bowl-Orc-Cheerleaders-2018?_requestid=4456415
I did a zenithal, chaos black with Wraithbone from above.
I used some terradon turquoise mixed with contrast medium as the base coat. I did two coats of it. Next I did a dry brush with sotek green and then temple guard blue. I like how it came out and I think it will look good with the albino lab rat plan I have thanks to a friend of mine.
I might buy another bottle if contrast medium and pour half of it into my current bottle and then pour half if the terradon turquoise into the half empty contrast bottle so I don't have to keep mixing stuff.
Also, with the huge failure in the colorshift paint (I emailed green stuff world about the apparently defunct paint) I think I'll just make all the metal on at least the pestilens models hella rusty.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Yea, that is why I included all I did with the paint. Applied over gloss black by brush and airbrush. Did it both thinned with flow improver and without in the airbrush. I covered my bases to hopefully avoid questions and work towards a solution.
When I did the colorshift paint from the series 1 and 2 paints from GSW over my Tau kill team it came out great. This series 3 set is just not working. The one I was most looking forward to, evil forest, doesn't work in the slightest. It is just a green paint, no shifting into the red at all. The painted named pinky blue came out as a sparkly silver.
At first I thought the issues was that I was brushing painting the colorshift paint but then I checked the website and it said brush painting was fine. Then I tested then all through an airbrush.
It's whatever, I'll see what happens with GSW. I was really hoping for something more interesting that dirty/rusty weapons on my plague monks but oh well at this point.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
This legionnary should have had a shield, but I repurposed a leftover arm from the signifer/prefector and the bolas he's supposed to have in his belt. So now he's a legionnary with bolas.
This signifer should have been a legionnare with shield and hammer. The old hammer arm is holding the icon (the hand is comically oversized, so it'll be painted as a glove). The new hammer arm is a replacement for the shield arm, with the hammer from the signifer and a left-over arm from the untamed beasts.
The others were built as stock.
List is Dominar, Breacher, Drillmaster, Signifer, Prefector, Armator, 2x bolas legionnary.
(Stock is Dominar, Breacher, Drillmaster, Signifer or Prefector, Armator, bolas or twin hammer legionnary, 2x shield legionnary.)
He has a chef's hat on his head, the staff will be painted as a giant candy cane, his backpack front pocket and apron pocket holds more candy canes (there will be some on his base, too). The giant club thing is a chupa chup-style lollipop, and an old-fashioned one (as well as a bar of chokolate and yet another candy cane) is in his backpack.
I also made a two-headed chaos ogre ogor as a counts-as firebelly. Their right half is female and it's left half is male, like slaanesh daemons.
I call them Mogor the Ogor.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Now just be sure not to rub the paint off by giving such a good boy so many pats. ;P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Knocked this guy out this week
Gold shouldn’t but brass is just an alloy of base metals so how it rusts will be dependent on them. Typically though it will rust verdigris green due to the copper content.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I know that I was on my phone replying and waiting till I came home to talk about Verdigris
As it's doable with little effort
But I feel doing it in bits and pieces would be a better look than on all
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
On an unrelated note, I've been churning through some boners (spoiler'd because they're probably fuckhuge and I'm too lazy to re-size them):