I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.
The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+1
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.
The 'boring' method is only boring to do en masse. I did it for my AoS skellington, not Bonercast, army and it was fun for 10 models. 50 models after that it truly was boring AF.
Something else I just thought of is doing your brass base color, then hitting it with Typhus Corrosion in patches, and then putting in some thinned down Nihilakh Oxide on those patches might look kinda neat.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.
The 'boring' method is only boring to do en masse. I did it for my AoS skellington, not Bonercast, army and it was fun for 10 models. 50 models after that it truly was boring AF.
Something else I just thought of is doing your brass base color, then hitting it with Typhus Corrosion in patches, and then putting in some thinned down Nihilakh Oxide on those patches might look kinda neat.
That could definitely look good. I'll try that and see how I like it.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
Go slow with consecutive layers of a couple different shaders?
Styrofoam Sammich on
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
OR, here's a better idea: wait for someone who's good at painting to give you advice.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.
God, flesh bodies suck.
+1
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.
God, flesh bodies suck.
I wrote that post while looking at my raging psoriasis plaques, so yeah. Flesh bodies do suck.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.
God, flesh bodies suck.
Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.
Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.
God, flesh bodies suck.
Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.
Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.
At first you had my curiosity. But now you have my interest.
+1
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.
God, flesh bodies suck.
Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.
Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.
At first you had my curiosity. But now you have my interest.
Yea this mini has veins on the sides of it’s eyestalks. You better believe I'm painting them blue then washing over them with skin tone.
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.
The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
Considering how vivid the robes are, I'd suggest going with a super rusty, almost orangey-brown for the metals. It'd be a good combination with the robes
I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.
Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.
How does gold or brass rust?
It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.
Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.
I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.
The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
Considering how vivid the robes are, I'd suggest going with a super rusty, almost orangey-brown for the metals. It'd be a good combination with the robes
That is what I decided to do. It is gonna be kind of tough to do though. I wish I had sub assembled them because painting the arms is going to suck. Still need to do another layer on the weapons but after that I'm gonna shade the few warplock bronze parts with either agrax or reikland shade and then gonna get those swords hella rusty.
The albino look isn't going well so far, don't really have anything to work with for this one though.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Pretty quick repost, but I finished Kairos today after a big push last night and this morning. The base doesn't show up correctly in pics, but it's got a cool blue to pink colorshift going on. I was tempted to hit the whole model with it, but I think I'm going to hold off. Basing with some quick and dirty GW product this time was so much easier than that resin base on the great unclean one.
There's a few little things I don't like that I've done with this model, but I think that might just be part of the hobby.
Don't judge the rats till you've done a whole bunch. Make sure you base them first too.
Also his left arm you've gone over with teal but it's furry.
Can't believe I missed the left arm. Thank you for saying something. I tried to do the fur white but I'm not sure it came out how I really wanted but luckily I have 79 more plague monks to paint so I'm sure at some point it will come out how I want it.
I also might add more stormhost silver to the blades.
For the base I was thinking of a kind of warpstone cracked earth thing. I'm thinking of painting the base randomly in warpstone colors and then adding the black crackle paint. Each clan was going to have their own color essentially. Skryre are gonna be blue or orange depending on the color I go with for them.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+7
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
So still pretty early on with detail painting, but I just want to say I think I nailed the eye stalks. I was going to do a skin colored wash over the veins but I think I'm not. I just love how they pop.
I've got a boatload of flesh eater court to paint, and that's probably going to be my next project, but I'm also trying to figure a paint scheme for my space wolves.
I don't like the robin egg blue that they typically are... I can't decide between a dark to medium Grey or a dark grey blue
To work towards a decision I've done two things
1) post about it here in the hope that thoughts into text will help me decide
2) order some new Vallejo paints that I might fall in love with as soon as I see them... A variety of dark Grey's and blues
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Pretty done with this test model. Gonna do a dry brush of incubi darkness on the base and then do black around the rim and calling the test model complete. Pretty happy with how it came out. This is gonna kind of suck though, more detail and precision work than I wanted.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited March 2020
Cross posting, final post of this plague monk. I did the rim in warpstone green. Just need to figure out what varnish to use. I'm not sure and would appreciate suggestions.
Gonna finish that terrain I started before I go into full paint mode on my plague monks.
What are some good colors for Skaven themed terrain? I plan on doing my warcry starter terrain in this theme.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm not a fan of the rim in green, its fighting for my eyes attention over the mini. Everything else is rad and seems easily duplicated for the horde.
Terrain wise, match the sink holes you did already?
Yea, I'm unsure of the green rim. I like it but it does feel kind of off. I just didn't really want to do black like I do with everything and I figured since the base color was warpstone green I'd do the rim to. I don't know though, like I said I do like it but I can see it being a bit off. I'm leaning towards keeping it though.
Sink holes? Do you mean the gnawholes? I did the swirly warp energy in them fluorescent but I don't think I'd be able to apply anything like that on the warcry terrain.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Beholder is done, working on the base right now. I think it turned out quite well. Didnt end up doing the dry skin look, there would have been too many big patches. I ended up painting red “sores” over some of the printer errors.
These have been uploaded on mobile so please yell at me if they’re too big.
Neat but since you have some of the Nolzur's D&D minis I had a few questions. I know they say it's pre primed. I have the Aasimar fighter one that I plan on painting when it gets warmer
But you can just slap on the paint as it would be primed?
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Neat but since you have some of the Nolzur's D&D minis I had a few questions. I know they say it's pre primed. I have the Aasimar fighter one that I plan on painting when it gets warmer
But you can just slap on the paint as it would be primed?
I wash them just like i would an unpainted mini before priming but yes otherwise i paint right on them.
I typically use Vallejo and GW, but I saw a project online I'd like to replicate on some armor but it uses a really specific color (decayed metal) that I can't seem to find outside of a $40 set (alchemy something or other).
I'm sure I could find a use for the rest of the metallics in the set, but I don't really want to splash out $40 plus shipping without knowing what I'm getting.
I'm also stuck at work and can't watch youtube review tonight
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited March 2020
Scale75 metallics are the absolute tits; probably some of the best available.
The rest of the range is great too, the caveat being that they're gel-based so a wet palette is a good idea and they dry incredibly matte which is not to many tastes. Coverage is decent and they thin well but it can be tricky to find the right balance for what you want to do. They tend to not separate nearly so much as Vallejo.
They also do a Fantasy & Games range that dries more satin. The black from that range is probably the best black I've ever used. The metallics and inks are shared between the ranges.
EDIT: are you in the US? Hit up Competition Minis, he does free shipping on orders over $49 and carries, like, all the paint.
Well hell, that's the review I was looking for. I really don't like GW metallics for the most part. I've gotten a ton of mileage from some of the Vallejo line... good to hear scale is better than that.
I've never used a gel based paint... do you still thin with water or would airbrush thinner or lahmian medium be a better option?
Posts
I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.
The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The 'boring' method is only boring to do en masse. I did it for my AoS skellington, not Bonercast, army and it was fun for 10 models. 50 models after that it truly was boring AF.
Something else I just thought of is doing your brass base color, then hitting it with Typhus Corrosion in patches, and then putting in some thinned down Nihilakh Oxide on those patches might look kinda neat.
That could definitely look good. I'll try that and see how I like it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I love that Plague Monk's robes.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Go slow with consecutive layers of a couple different shaders?
If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.
Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.
OR, here's a better idea: wait for someone who's good at painting to give you advice.
Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.
God, flesh bodies suck.
I wrote that post while looking at my raging psoriasis plaques, so yeah. Flesh bodies do suck.
Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.
Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.
This is the mini in question.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
At first you had my curiosity. But now you have my interest.
Yea this mini has veins on the sides of it’s eyestalks. You better believe I'm painting them blue then washing over them with skin tone.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Considering how vivid the robes are, I'd suggest going with a super rusty, almost orangey-brown for the metals. It'd be a good combination with the robes
That is what I decided to do. It is gonna be kind of tough to do though. I wish I had sub assembled them because painting the arms is going to suck. Still need to do another layer on the weapons but after that I'm gonna shade the few warplock bronze parts with either agrax or reikland shade and then gonna get those swords hella rusty.
The albino look isn't going well so far, don't really have anything to work with for this one though.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Also his left arm you've gone over with teal but it's furry.
PSN- AHermano
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
There's a few little things I don't like that I've done with this model, but I think that might just be part of the hobby.
All in all I'm pretty happy.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Can't believe I missed the left arm. Thank you for saying something. I tried to do the fur white but I'm not sure it came out how I really wanted but luckily I have 79 more plague monks to paint so I'm sure at some point it will come out how I want it.
I also might add more stormhost silver to the blades.
For the base I was thinking of a kind of warpstone cracked earth thing. I'm thinking of painting the base randomly in warpstone colors and then adding the black crackle paint. Each clan was going to have their own color essentially. Skryre are gonna be blue or orange depending on the color I go with for them.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I don't like the robin egg blue that they typically are... I can't decide between a dark to medium Grey or a dark grey blue
To work towards a decision I've done two things
1) post about it here in the hope that thoughts into text will help me decide
2) order some new Vallejo paints that I might fall in love with as soon as I see them... A variety of dark Grey's and blues
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gonna finish that terrain I started before I go into full paint mode on my plague monks.
What are some good colors for Skaven themed terrain? I plan on doing my warcry starter terrain in this theme.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Terrain wise, match the sink holes you did already?
Yea, I'm unsure of the green rim. I like it but it does feel kind of off. I just didn't really want to do black like I do with everything and I figured since the base color was warpstone green I'd do the rim to. I don't know though, like I said I do like it but I can see it being a bit off. I'm leaning towards keeping it though.
Sink holes? Do you mean the gnawholes? I did the swirly warp energy in them fluorescent but I don't think I'd be able to apply anything like that on the warcry terrain.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
These have been uploaded on mobile so please yell at me if they’re too big.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
But you can just slap on the paint as it would be primed?
I wash them just like i would an unpainted mini before priming but yes otherwise i paint right on them.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Here is the first model I painted: (Album is here)
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It also works for Snickers
It sort've makes sense when you read the last couple of posts.
I typically use Vallejo and GW, but I saw a project online I'd like to replicate on some armor but it uses a really specific color (decayed metal) that I can't seem to find outside of a $40 set (alchemy something or other).
I'm sure I could find a use for the rest of the metallics in the set, but I don't really want to splash out $40 plus shipping without knowing what I'm getting.
I'm also stuck at work and can't watch youtube review tonight
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
The rest of the range is great too, the caveat being that they're gel-based so a wet palette is a good idea and they dry incredibly matte which is not to many tastes. Coverage is decent and they thin well but it can be tricky to find the right balance for what you want to do. They tend to not separate nearly so much as Vallejo.
They also do a Fantasy & Games range that dries more satin. The black from that range is probably the best black I've ever used. The metallics and inks are shared between the ranges.
EDIT: are you in the US? Hit up Competition Minis, he does free shipping on orders over $49 and carries, like, all the paint.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I've never used a gel based paint... do you still thin with water or would airbrush thinner or lahmian medium be a better option?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6