I know, they're huge. How do take smaller pictures on my phone?
Buy one with less megapixels.
Seriously though, there are apps and hosting sites that will resize photos, also cropping shots to focus just on the model helps a lot too.
I am going to order some supplies in the next two days to begin painting this week. I will be painting minis and scenery for D&D, and to pass the time with the nieces while we are in quarantine.
What should I get? I plan to follow some basic tutorials re: washes, dry brushing, etc (links welcome!), but what supplies will I need?
I'm looking at the Vallejo starter kit, but I don't know what brushes to get, if any specific washes are generally useful, and what other bits would be useful to have. Please advise, and maybe add the info the OP?
I am going to order some supplies in the next two days to begin painting this week. I will be painting minis and scenery for D&D, and to pass the time with the nieces while we are in quarantine.
What should I get? I plan to follow some basic tutorials re: washes, dry brushing, etc (links welcome!), but what supplies will I need?
I'm looking at the Vallejo starter kit, but I don't know what brushes to get, if any specific washes are generally useful, and what other bits would be useful to have. Please advise, and maybe add the info the OP?
Thanks!
Miniac on youtube has a pretty good review of all the basic paint starter sets if you want an all-in-one product to start with rather than buying a bunch of separate paints.
So I've been sitting on finishing this model for awhile because I kept forgetting to buy PVA glue to do the snow effect. I finally ordered it during my Coronacation and got him completed.
Need go back and reblack the rim, got a little slopped with the glue.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
I am going to order some supplies in the next two days to begin painting this week. I will be painting minis and scenery for D&D, and to pass the time with the nieces while we are in quarantine.
What should I get? I plan to follow some basic tutorials re: washes, dry brushing, etc (links welcome!), but what supplies will I need?
I'm looking at the Vallejo starter kit, but I don't know what brushes to get, if any specific washes are generally useful, and what other bits would be useful to have. Please advise, and maybe add the info the OP?
Thanks!
I'm pretty lazy, so I follow the traditional GW painting system (prime, basecoat, wash, highlight, realize you screwed something up and spend the next three hours agonizing over your mistakes, base the model), so this might not be super applicable to you, but here it is anyway:
For paints, I would start off with some basics that are usable for everything (black, white, metallic metal) plus some standard colors like red, blue, green, brown, etc. The Vallejo starter set seems to have a pretty decent spread, but you'll likely want to fill in with a few additional colors. You'll definitely want some washes, at a minimum black and brown (GW's Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade are excellent, I'm sure someone can suggest lower cost alternatives though), plus a lighter tone for skin. Washes are the easiest way to increase the visible detail on your model and make it look more like a miniature elf or dwarf and less like a plastic toy. They're also the easiest way to turn an eh paintjob into a decent one, and a decent one into a good one. You'll want to prime your models if they aren't pre-primed, you can do it by hand with brush on primer (which is time consuming, but you can do it indoors and it's very inexpensive), or you can use a spray on primer. Someone will have to recommend low cost ones because I am a doofus and use $20 Citadel spraycans.
Brush wise you'll want a larger brush for big surfaces, a medium brush for smaller surfaces, and a tiny brush for highlighting or very small details. This is a simplification of course, but you don't need to go out and spend a hundred bucks on brushes when you're first starting out since you'll probably be a lot rougher on them than you will be once you have some practice under your belt. The bigger the brush you use on a surface, the less you'll see brushmarks, but the more difficult it will be to paint small details, so it's good to have a decent spread though. You'll also want a dedicated drybrush, because drybrushing is another easy way to make models and terrain look great without a ton of effort. Drybrushing is really hard on your brushes though, so you don't want to do it with a brand new brush. You can use old brushes that are already thrashed, but a brush designed for dry brushing (with stiffer, denser bristles) will be a solid investment. GW has an "essential brush collection" that is a really solid starter, but it's $54 so it's pretty spendy when you're just getting started. If you were going with GW brushes I'd go with a Medium Base, Medium Layer, Small Layer, and Small Drybrush for individual models, plus a cheap larger craft store brush for your terrain.
You'll also want some sort of paint palette, buying or building a wet palette is the way and the light, and I heartily recommend it, but I've used everything from GW's disposable sheets to the upturned lid from a pringles jar with decent levels of success. Some people use ceramic palettes (an old dinner plate or a single tile would work). You just need something for thinning paint and controlling how much of it is on your brush at any given time, plus a place to do blending if you get into that.
If your nieces are young nieces than you'll definitely want some sort of surface covering for spills. Also, if you are new to building models and you're using super glue I'd recommend getting the gel type instead of the standard liquid type. It doesn't run, so it's more forgiving of mistakes from new modelers or kids. I also always like to have something playing in the background, be it music/old radio shows/podcasts/etc.
The big thing that really completes a model (that a lot of newer painters skip out on) is basing it. You can get a lot of different technical paints to use for basing that make it super easy, as well as grass tufts or other plants, and there are a lot of ways to use other small items as basing material as well. Even if you just slap on some Stirland Mud, drybrush it, and plop on a grass tuft or two your model will look lightyears better than if it was standing on bare plastic. Bases and Faces make models look Aces.
Lastly, there are a ton of introduction to miniature painting videos on youtube. WarhammerTV has some really solid and easy to follow videos showing different painting mechanics (the basecoat, wash, highlight, etc steps I mentioned above), and there are plenty of youtube channels entirely dedicated to mini painting.
Lastly, when you get to the point where you are posting pictures of your models online, you can resize the images easily using anything from professional photo software to MSPaint. You can get a better focus from your camera if you put something flat (preferably a solid color to make it easier to see your model's details), and make sure to turn off your flash. Good luck, have fun, and be sure to post your first models.
SmokeStacks on
+5
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Having trouble deciding which fluorescent paint to use for my plague priest's warpstone on his staff.
The GSW paint is what I used for my gnawholes but it is very thinned down in the bottle while the scale 75 stuff has a gel like consistency like all their other paints. I like the glow more from the GSW stuff but I think it will be harder to paint.
Just want to finish this model.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited March 2020
Project number two knocked off my bench! Some U'rak for the game Star Breach. Yes, they're just GW Orks.
The thing that's interesting to me here is that the armored one on the far left, I painted circa 2000-2002. It was, what I felt, the single best painted model I ever finished back when I played 40k. The three new guys to the right are the ones I just finished, and it's really surprising to me:
1. The depth of techniques I've picked up in almost twenty years, and
2. How well the job on the armored one still holds up. It's kinda cheating that it's a ton of drybrushed metallics, but hey. Whatever!
I'm not super satisfied with the pictures; I had to use some extra light sources b/c my lightbox only has sources from the top, and the color temperature of the extra bulbs wasn't the same. The whole setup was weird. Sorry the backgrounds have a washed-out blueish cast to them, but the models themselves are pretty color-correct. Which, hey, it's browns, greys, and greens, surprising no one. *shrug*
It's actually a little hard to tell, but I ended up painting the hafts in a copper metallic drybrush. I'm super happy with how that worked, because I really didn't want them to just be "wood" but also not just the same as the metal heads.
I did leave one detail off: I intended to make those boys some guns, but never got around to it. Star Breach doesn't really care about WYSIWYG, but I'll eventually stick those on holstered on the backs and for now I'm satisfied.
I will say that converting stormcast paladins is a decent chunk of work. So many lightning bolts to file off and other iconography to cover up but that is to be expected.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Almost done with the nasty rat boy. Added some flourescent dry brush to the smoke, not sure if I actually want to paint the ball the smoke is coming out of bronze or just leave it green.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'd looked at doing some conversions to make stormcast into blood angel units, but it looked like way too much work for exactly that reason.
Yeah but blood Angels have decent units already. The current chaos Chosen unit is resin which means before that it was pewter and the same fucking mold.
+1
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
Almost done with the nasty rat boy. Added some flourescent dry brush to the smoke, not sure if I actually want to paint the ball the smoke is coming out of bronze or just leave it green.
I decided to paint my Sisters of Battle exactly how Duncan does in his new painting academy video (using two very minor color substitutions). Luckily I only had to buy three or four new pots to get the full list.
I knew it was going to be a pain in the ass when I was building them, but my god, painting the inside of their robes is a nightmare. I was super tempted to cut them off of their bases, but struggled through it. I know the old saying is "If you can see it, you can get a brush in there", but ugh. I'll just have to throw some extra Nuln Oil in the deeper spots and hope for the best.
Outside of a Hospitalier I haven't expanded this army past the first army box, the plan is to take it much slower and be more proactive about keeping up with the painting so that it doesn't turn into another half painted army.
I decided to paint my Sisters of Battle exactly how Duncan does in his new painting academy video (using two very minor color substitutions). Luckily I only had to buy three or four new pots to get the full list.
I knew it was going to be a pain in the ass when I was building them, but my god, painting the inside of their robes is a nightmare. I was super tempted to cut them off of their bases, but struggled through it. I know the old saying is "If you can see it, you can get a brush in there", but ugh. I'll just have to throw some extra Nuln Oil in the deeper spots and hope for the best.
Outside of a Hospitalier I haven't expanded this army past the first army box, the plan is to take it much slower and be more proactive about keeping up with the painting so that it doesn't turn into another half painted army.
I've had similar issues with Skitarii Vanguard/Rangers. Luckily with those the cloak is part of the main body piece and the legs are separate, so it's pretty easy to do them in sub-assemblies.
I do kind of wish I'd picked up some Sisters before the lockdown, they look like they'd be fun to paint (not that I need any more half-finished projects).
fray on
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Tried the nuln oil/medium wash but it was a bit to black I think. Next one will be thinner.
I saw a kid get handed a JB poster by who I presume was his parents outside my store today....he tore it in half infront of his horrified parents.....There's hope for our youth yet!
+11
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
I've had similar issues with Skitarii Vanguard/Rangers. Luckily with those the cloak is part of the main body piece and the legs are separate, so it's pretty easy to do them in sub-assemblies.
I do kind of wish I'd picked up some Sisters before the lockdown, they look like they'd be fun to paint (not that I need any more half-finished projects).
I would have done them in sub-assembly, but I built them quick so I could get them into a game. Ended up playing two games with them, one against Custodes (where I got my ass handed to me), and one against GSC (where I handed my opponent his ass). My even bigger mistake was gluing the Seraphim to their flight stands, now I'm going to have to brush prime them like some kind of animal.
Look, if it isn't a chain bayonet then why are we even here?
Ironically that would make more sense!
+1
VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Using the quarantine to be productive - 4 models in 4 days.
Pretty happy with this and I would say that I thought these models were boring when I first got them but having painted most of them I’m actually enjoying it a lot.
Posts
I know, they're huge. How do take smaller pictures on my phone?
Buy one with less megapixels.
Seriously though, there are apps and hosting sites that will resize photos, also cropping shots to focus just on the model helps a lot too.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
For the record, the images load fine on mobile.
On PC, they are big, which just lets me ogle the detail more..
Though considering this is the painting thread maybe worry about image sizes seems silly? I dunno...
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It feels so very off to me. I'm not sure I'm gonna use it for other stuff. I might trash it.
Maybe it is because of the weird consistency of the ulthuan grey I was using.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If I were to guess, it looks like it's thin on pigment, surfactant/flow improver, or both. What was the mix you used?
I followed this recipe from mid winter minis.
I'm concerned I may have messed up the black wash by not adding enough if certain parts.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I am going to order some supplies in the next two days to begin painting this week. I will be painting minis and scenery for D&D, and to pass the time with the nieces while we are in quarantine.
What should I get? I plan to follow some basic tutorials re: washes, dry brushing, etc (links welcome!), but what supplies will I need?
I'm looking at the Vallejo starter kit, but I don't know what brushes to get, if any specific washes are generally useful, and what other bits would be useful to have. Please advise, and maybe add the info the OP?
Thanks!
Miniac on youtube has a pretty good review of all the basic paint starter sets if you want an all-in-one product to start with rather than buying a bunch of separate paints.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Need go back and reblack the rim, got a little slopped with the glue.
I'm pretty lazy, so I follow the traditional GW painting system (prime, basecoat, wash, highlight, realize you screwed something up and spend the next three hours agonizing over your mistakes, base the model), so this might not be super applicable to you, but here it is anyway:
For paints, I would start off with some basics that are usable for everything (black, white, metallic metal) plus some standard colors like red, blue, green, brown, etc. The Vallejo starter set seems to have a pretty decent spread, but you'll likely want to fill in with a few additional colors. You'll definitely want some washes, at a minimum black and brown (GW's Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade are excellent, I'm sure someone can suggest lower cost alternatives though), plus a lighter tone for skin. Washes are the easiest way to increase the visible detail on your model and make it look more like a miniature elf or dwarf and less like a plastic toy. They're also the easiest way to turn an eh paintjob into a decent one, and a decent one into a good one. You'll want to prime your models if they aren't pre-primed, you can do it by hand with brush on primer (which is time consuming, but you can do it indoors and it's very inexpensive), or you can use a spray on primer. Someone will have to recommend low cost ones because I am a doofus and use $20 Citadel spraycans.
Brush wise you'll want a larger brush for big surfaces, a medium brush for smaller surfaces, and a tiny brush for highlighting or very small details. This is a simplification of course, but you don't need to go out and spend a hundred bucks on brushes when you're first starting out since you'll probably be a lot rougher on them than you will be once you have some practice under your belt. The bigger the brush you use on a surface, the less you'll see brushmarks, but the more difficult it will be to paint small details, so it's good to have a decent spread though. You'll also want a dedicated drybrush, because drybrushing is another easy way to make models and terrain look great without a ton of effort. Drybrushing is really hard on your brushes though, so you don't want to do it with a brand new brush. You can use old brushes that are already thrashed, but a brush designed for dry brushing (with stiffer, denser bristles) will be a solid investment. GW has an "essential brush collection" that is a really solid starter, but it's $54 so it's pretty spendy when you're just getting started. If you were going with GW brushes I'd go with a Medium Base, Medium Layer, Small Layer, and Small Drybrush for individual models, plus a cheap larger craft store brush for your terrain.
You'll also want some sort of paint palette, buying or building a wet palette is the way and the light, and I heartily recommend it, but I've used everything from GW's disposable sheets to the upturned lid from a pringles jar with decent levels of success. Some people use ceramic palettes (an old dinner plate or a single tile would work). You just need something for thinning paint and controlling how much of it is on your brush at any given time, plus a place to do blending if you get into that.
If your nieces are young nieces than you'll definitely want some sort of surface covering for spills. Also, if you are new to building models and you're using super glue I'd recommend getting the gel type instead of the standard liquid type. It doesn't run, so it's more forgiving of mistakes from new modelers or kids. I also always like to have something playing in the background, be it music/old radio shows/podcasts/etc.
The big thing that really completes a model (that a lot of newer painters skip out on) is basing it. You can get a lot of different technical paints to use for basing that make it super easy, as well as grass tufts or other plants, and there are a lot of ways to use other small items as basing material as well. Even if you just slap on some Stirland Mud, drybrush it, and plop on a grass tuft or two your model will look lightyears better than if it was standing on bare plastic. Bases and Faces make models look Aces.
Lastly, there are a ton of introduction to miniature painting videos on youtube. WarhammerTV has some really solid and easy to follow videos showing different painting mechanics (the basecoat, wash, highlight, etc steps I mentioned above), and there are plenty of youtube channels entirely dedicated to mini painting.
Lastly, when you get to the point where you are posting pictures of your models online, you can resize the images easily using anything from professional photo software to MSPaint. You can get a better focus from your camera if you put something flat (preferably a solid color to make it easier to see your model's details), and make sure to turn off your flash. Good luck, have fun, and be sure to post your first models.
The GSW paint is what I used for my gnawholes but it is very thinned down in the bottle while the scale 75 stuff has a gel like consistency like all their other paints. I like the glow more from the GSW stuff but I think it will be harder to paint.
Just want to finish this model.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The thing that's interesting to me here is that the armored one on the far left, I painted circa 2000-2002. It was, what I felt, the single best painted model I ever finished back when I played 40k. The three new guys to the right are the ones I just finished, and it's really surprising to me:
1. The depth of techniques I've picked up in almost twenty years, and
2. How well the job on the armored one still holds up. It's kinda cheating that it's a ton of drybrushed metallics, but hey. Whatever!
I'm not super satisfied with the pictures; I had to use some extra light sources b/c my lightbox only has sources from the top, and the color temperature of the extra bulbs wasn't the same. The whole setup was weird. Sorry the backgrounds have a washed-out blueish cast to them, but the models themselves are pretty color-correct. Which, hey, it's browns, greys, and greens, surprising no one. *shrug*
It's actually a little hard to tell, but I ended up painting the hafts in a copper metallic drybrush. I'm super happy with how that worked, because I really didn't want them to just be "wood" but also not just the same as the metal heads.
I did leave one detail off: I intended to make those boys some guns, but never got around to it. Star Breach doesn't really care about WYSIWYG, but I'll eventually stick those on holstered on the backs and for now I'm satisfied.
Some standouts then a group shot:
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah but blood Angels have decent units already. The current chaos Chosen unit is resin which means before that it was pewter and the same fucking mold.
That looks fucking rad.
These came out excellent. I love the sneaky little third hand on the dude with the flanged mace.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
The guy with the polearm has a beefier arm.
Obligatory
I knew it was going to be a pain in the ass when I was building them, but my god, painting the inside of their robes is a nightmare. I was super tempted to cut them off of their bases, but struggled through it. I know the old saying is "If you can see it, you can get a brush in there", but ugh. I'll just have to throw some extra Nuln Oil in the deeper spots and hope for the best.
Outside of a Hospitalier I haven't expanded this army past the first army box, the plan is to take it much slower and be more proactive about keeping up with the painting so that it doesn't turn into another half painted army.
A bayonet on a pintle mounted weapon is way above that level. :mad:
Brilliant.
Yeah, that's ridiculous.
It should be an axe blade, that way you can tilt the weapon on the pintle mount in a chopping motion if someone tries climbing up the hull.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I've had similar issues with Skitarii Vanguard/Rangers. Luckily with those the cloak is part of the main body piece and the legs are separate, so it's pretty easy to do them in sub-assemblies.
I do kind of wish I'd picked up some Sisters before the lockdown, they look like they'd be fun to paint (not that I need any more half-finished projects).
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Sir thats the battering ram you just dont understand tactics
Metal boxes we will free them from the metal boxes
In dawn of war that is all I can remember of the chaos run that silly quote
Attempt at making a clone commando
Tried the nuln oil/medium wash but it was a bit to black I think. Next one will be thinner.
That's from the final expac, Soulstorm, which was farmed out to a different dev team.
I would have done them in sub-assembly, but I built them quick so I could get them into a game. Ended up playing two games with them, one against Custodes (where I got my ass handed to me), and one against GSC (where I handed my opponent his ass). My even bigger mistake was gluing the Seraphim to their flight stands, now I'm going to have to brush prime them like some kind of animal.
Looks like carbon scoring to me.
Ironically that would make more sense!
Using the quarantine to be productive - 4 models in 4 days.
Pretty happy with this and I would say that I thought these models were boring when I first got them but having painted most of them I’m actually enjoying it a lot.