Yeah, my primary PC use is gaming. My goal is to build a rig capable of smoothly running Star Citizen (and other things) at max. My current rig, which is 8 years old and has an i5 processor and a 1050 Ti is pretty much incapable of running Star Citizen.
As Soggy said, the 3900X is a much, much better buy overall than the 9900K right now. It's within a couple of % on IPC/single threaded performance, but blows the i9 away in anything multi-threaded....which Star Citizen is. More and more games will start to take advantage of multi-core CPU's this generation than ever before. Unless you just absolutely must have an Intel system the 3900X at <500 USD is a no brainer right now.
How much sense would it make to upgrade from a 1080 (plain jane) to a 2080 super? Would the difference be very noticeable?
I'm finding that the 1080 isn't quite giving the performance at 1440p that I want, but not sure if I should just hold out for the 3080 (or whatever the next next number is)...
Chipmunks are like nature's nipple clamps, I guess?
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
The 2080 Super is a bit stronger than a 1080 Ti, which was quite a bit beefier than a 1080. So you’re looking at a decent performance bump. Is it a 700 dollar performance bump? That’s up to you.
If you’re looking to pull the trigger right now it’s probably fine. We’re still months and months from new GPU’s even getting announced officially, especially with the human malware situation.
You will never notice those timing differences. Not even a little bit.
I just wanted to be sure it would work and be worthwhile - will this RAM work in an upgrade if I buy a new cpu/mobo later in the year?
In a year, probably? DDR5 is on the somewhat visible horizon but given that we're in March of 2020, we're dealing with a global economic crisis and we've heard almost no rumblings about it...I wouldn't bet on it. Even if it were to be available by years end, which is the dates I'm seeing, you're looking at a transition process where DDR4 won't just disappear or be worthless.
Passed Men86+ test
Let it run through a high stress Prime95 Test
Sat it on HW Monitor for like 2 hours. no odd temps or voltages
Also got a few bluescreens indicating a hardware issue. But nothing helpful
1. Backup your data. Something may be dieing...
2. With your data backed up, consider doing a full reinstall of Win10. A Clean install only takes about an hour and only needs an internet connection. Obviously setting up to what you want installed is more variable.
This greatly reduces that there is anything wrong on the software side.
Under which circumstances is it crashing? Only under high load?
Just randomly. Almost exclusively when doing nothing but surfing. Didn't freeze or crash during Prime95 or CPU-Z Stress tests even running for hours
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Passed Men86+ test
Let it run through a high stress Prime95 Test
Sat it on HW Monitor for like 2 hours. no odd temps or voltages
Also got a few bluescreens indicating a hardware issue. But nothing helpful
1. Backup your data. Something may be dieing...
2. With your data backed up, consider doing a full reinstall of Win10. A Clean install only takes about an hour and only needs an internet connection. Obviously setting up to what you want installed is more variable.
This greatly reduces that there is anything wrong on the software side.
Under which circumstances is it crashing? Only under high load?
Just randomly. Almost exclusively when doing nothing but surfing. Didn't freeze or crash during Prime95 or CPU-Z Stress tests even running for hours
GPU acceleration is a thing now in most browsers. I would turn that off first (here is the way for firefox).
Soggybiscuit on
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
I ordered 2 monitors from Amazon, anticipating to be exclusively teleworking. Instead, the exact opposite has happened. I'm debating keeping them and setting them up for the kids.
Kids are currently using my old Monoprice 27" mons that each take up 3/4 of their desks.
Prices are in Canadian dollars, and the video card, RAM and SSD have already been bought, courtesy of a late-night "what if the price increases tomorrow?!" fear.
Prices are in Canadian dollars, and the video card, RAM and SSD have already been bought, courtesy of a late-night "what if the price increases tomorrow?!" fear.
If you wanted to shave a few bucks off, I would get the B450 Tomahawk MAX.
I would also get something other than EVGA's absolute bargian basement PSU. I know LOL RGB, but this PSU is actually deemed pretty good by the LTT PSU tier list.
Available but won't ship for a month: USB-C to DP cable. Amazon thinks this isn't a critical item, but to someone who needs one to hook a laptop to a monitor for remote work, yeah, it kinda is.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
@Soggybiscuit can you get an adapter via Staples or Best Buy?
Long shot: is there a Microcenter within a half day's drive that work will pay you to travel?
I found a cable on NewEgg, for 2 x the price with shipping. I bought that instead. I'm actually in Ohio, and I'm about 1.5 hours from Columbus, but stay-in-place orders and all kinda makes it hard to go there. Additionally, Microcenter Columbus was cleaned out of adapter cables except for one that was about $80. Hooray.
EDIT: Staples had a store in Athens, but in their infinite wisdom, because summer was slow each year, they decided to close it. It's now a Planet Fitness, which is closed right now.
They have a couple webcams as well but they are in store only purchases.
Soggybiscuit on
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
@Soggybiscuit can you get an adapter via Staples or Best Buy?
Long shot: is there a Microcenter within a half day's drive that work will pay you to travel?
I live within 20 minutes of a MicroCenter. For an adapter I could attempt to mail it out to you, but I'm not sure they're open because all the counties here are on a shelter in place order.
Just ordered my first m.2! A 970 Evo Plus from Samsung. Expecting some nice improvement from my 8~ year old solid state.
+1
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Dr. ChaosPost nuclear nuisanceRegistered Userregular
edited March 2020
Anyone know of a good guide on how to install a new motherboard and get it all wired up? Most of the videos I've found are short eight minute videos where they quickly speed through everything rather than walking you through it.
I know how to get a CPU and GPU set up but the motherboard is still the most complicated part for me. Had the damndest time trying to do it the last time around, couldn't figure it out and just paid someone else to do it.
Don't want to have to do that this time. Already shelling out 250 for these upgrades, not paying another 70-100 bucks on top of it.
Anyone know of a good guide on how to install a new motherboard and get it all wired up? Most of the videos I've found are short eight minute videos where they quickly speed through everything rather than walking you through it.
I know how to get a CPU and GPU set up but the motherboard is still the most complicated part for me. Had the damndest time trying to do it the last time around, couldn't figure it out and just paid someone else to do it.
Don't want to have to do that this time. Already shelling out 250 for these upgrades, not paying another 70-100 bucks on top of it.
You're going to have to follow the motherboard manual because every motherboard is going to be different. This is why most "how to build a PC" videos will hand wave over wiring up the basic connections.
That said, the wiring part is generally pretty rote, there are only so many places any particular plug can go. The important things are going to be (mostly) obvious: 24-pin power, aux power (generally 8 pin next to the CPU), and SATA cables. Beyond that, things like front panel audio and USB will be clearly marked in the manual as will the front panel system connectors (power, power LED, HDD led, reset are the main ones on most cases). You can't really "hurt" anything during this, short of trying to force a plug where it doesn't go.
Anyone know of a good guide on how to install a new motherboard and get it all wired up? Most of the videos I've found are short eight minute videos where they quickly speed through everything rather than walking you through it.
I know how to get a CPU and GPU set up but the motherboard is still the most complicated part for me. Had the damndest time trying to do it the last time around, couldn't figure it out and just paid someone else to do it.
Don't want to have to do that this time. Already shelling out 250 for these upgrades, not paying another 70-100 bucks on top of it.
As a (very broad) guide, I found this video to be super helpful. As said above, you'll want to meticulously double-check everything you're plugging in with your specific mobo manual, but they go through the wiring process pretty step-by-step here so I at least knew what to look for.
"wired up" has multiple connotations. In which way do you interpret that? Is it specifically the front panel connectors? All the data connections to the board in general? Is it literally everything related to installing the motherboard, including the CPU, heatsink, and installing in the case?
This is going to sound a bit flippant but srsly read the manual. It's all in there. Every motherboard company is incentivized to direct their users how to connect up their motherboards so that those users can have a working computer. I have honestly brought a mobo manual with me into the bathroom before. Mark it up. Highlight passages. Dog ear pages.
That being said, if you have specific questions, feel free to ask us. Don't be afraid to take some pictures and post them somewhere we can check them.
Anyone know of a good guide on how to install a new motherboard and get it all wired up? Most of the videos I've found are short eight minute videos where they quickly speed through everything rather than walking you through it.
I know how to get a CPU and GPU set up but the motherboard is still the most complicated part for me. Had the damndest time trying to do it the last time around, couldn't figure it out and just paid someone else to do it.
Don't want to have to do that this time. Already shelling out 250 for these upgrades, not paying another 70-100 bucks on top of it.
Before you put it in, you'll probably want to put in the cpu, it's fan, and smaller components (ram, nvme drives) first, probably want to leave the gpu too later.
Then you go ahead and screw it into the standoffs in your case.
Then you plug everything in, I usually go bottom to top, since the awkward things like the front facing sata ports and case jumpers are usually near the bottom, whereas the main power and fan headers usually have more clearance at the top. It's a lot easier to do them if you don't have the gpu in.
I usually go a quick power check to make sure all the fans are working at that point too
Finally decided to upgrade my monitor once the WFH equipment I received from work had a tiny 4:3 monitor. Got an ASUS VG248QG, it came with a displayport cable so I used that. But when I turned on my PC the monitor is saying displayport no signal, and my POST beeped twice with the onboard LEDs on the motherboard lit up a solid white.
Looked in my motherboard manual and the solid white LED is a VGA issue. Swapped out to HDMI and the monitor detected that but even after logging into windows and switching back to displayport it's not getting a signal.
Googled about this and a common solution seems to just power cycle the monitor. I did that, waited a minute before turning it back on and displayport works. If this is going to happen every time I boot my PC, I might just buy another HDMI cable...
I was able to log on with HDMI, switched cables to displayport and get no signal. Tested both the displayport jacks on my card. When I powered cycled the monitor displayport started working.
I'm working now I don't have a chance yet to see if the issue repeats.
Edit: Got back home and rebooted a couple of times, seems like the displayport connection is working fine now.
I was able to log on with HDMI, switched cables to displayport and get no signal. Tested both the displayport jacks on my card. When I powered cycled the monitor displayport started working.
I'm working now I don't have a chance yet to see if the issue repeats.
Edit: Got back home and rebooted a couple of times, seems like the displayport connection is working fine now.
GPU -> DP cable -> monitor can be a bit finicky initially.
We had the same problem with laptops at work. Once it was working we had no repeat issues.
Posts
As Soggy said, the 3900X is a much, much better buy overall than the 9900K right now. It's within a couple of % on IPC/single threaded performance, but blows the i9 away in anything multi-threaded....which Star Citizen is. More and more games will start to take advantage of multi-core CPU's this generation than ever before. Unless you just absolutely must have an Intel system the 3900X at <500 USD is a no brainer right now.
edit oh - timing.
Mine is - 16-16-16-36
This is - 16-18-18-38
Would this be a problem?
I'm finding that the 1080 isn't quite giving the performance at 1440p that I want, but not sure if I should just hold out for the 3080 (or whatever the next next number is)...
If you’re looking to pull the trigger right now it’s probably fine. We’re still months and months from new GPU’s even getting announced officially, especially with the human malware situation.
I just wanted to be sure it would work and be worthwhile - will this RAM work in an upgrade if I buy a new cpu/mobo later in the year?
In a year, probably? DDR5 is on the somewhat visible horizon but given that we're in March of 2020, we're dealing with a global economic crisis and we've heard almost no rumblings about it...I wouldn't bet on it. Even if it were to be available by years end, which is the dates I'm seeing, you're looking at a transition process where DDR4 won't just disappear or be worthless.
Just randomly. Almost exclusively when doing nothing but surfing. Didn't freeze or crash during Prime95 or CPU-Z Stress tests even running for hours
See if you've got a memory.dmp file in the windows directory, or minidumps in c:\windows\minidump
GPU acceleration is a thing now in most browsers. I would turn that off first (here is the way for firefox).
Kids are currently using my old Monoprice 27" mons that each take up 3/4 of their desks.
Here's a link for a Noctua NH-D15 for around $60 US after discount. (note it's returnable if yours arrives with bad damage)
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=noctua&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1584732414&s=warehouse-deals&sr=8-1
Thanks @Cormac @Mugsley @jungleroomx and @Soggybiscuit for all the help on this. Now the drudgery of reinstalling everything ever.
I celebrated by playing Chip's Challenge. >.>
Yeah its a bugcheck 124 error that indicates a crash in HAL.sys IE a hardware driver
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($237.95 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.14 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Canada Computers)
Motherboard: ASRock X570 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($214.68 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB TUF OC Video Card ($449.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.50 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: EVGA BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Memory Express)
Total: $1367.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-25 05:09 EDT-0400
Prices are in Canadian dollars, and the video card, RAM and SSD have already been bought, courtesy of a late-night "what if the price increases tomorrow?!" fear.
If you wanted to shave a few bucks off, I would get the B450 Tomahawk MAX.
I would also get something other than EVGA's absolute bargian basement PSU. I know LOL RGB, but this PSU is actually deemed pretty good by the LTT PSU tier list.
Some of it is probably going to end up going to an RTX 3070 if we're being honest.
Available but won't ship for a month: USB-C to DP cable. Amazon thinks this isn't a critical item, but to someone who needs one to hook a laptop to a monitor for remote work, yeah, it kinda is.
Long shot: is there a Microcenter within a half day's drive that work will pay you to travel?
I found a cable on NewEgg, for 2 x the price with shipping. I bought that instead. I'm actually in Ohio, and I'm about 1.5 hours from Columbus, but stay-in-place orders and all kinda makes it hard to go there. Additionally, Microcenter Columbus was cleaned out of adapter cables except for one that was about $80. Hooray.
EDIT: Staples had a store in Athens, but in their infinite wisdom, because summer was slow each year, they decided to close it. It's now a Planet Fitness, which is closed right now.
They have a couple webcams as well but they are in store only purchases.
I live within 20 minutes of a MicroCenter. For an adapter I could attempt to mail it out to you, but I'm not sure they're open because all the counties here are on a shelter in place order.
I know how to get a CPU and GPU set up but the motherboard is still the most complicated part for me. Had the damndest time trying to do it the last time around, couldn't figure it out and just paid someone else to do it.
Don't want to have to do that this time. Already shelling out 250 for these upgrades, not paying another 70-100 bucks on top of it.
You're going to have to follow the motherboard manual because every motherboard is going to be different. This is why most "how to build a PC" videos will hand wave over wiring up the basic connections.
That said, the wiring part is generally pretty rote, there are only so many places any particular plug can go. The important things are going to be (mostly) obvious: 24-pin power, aux power (generally 8 pin next to the CPU), and SATA cables. Beyond that, things like front panel audio and USB will be clearly marked in the manual as will the front panel system connectors (power, power LED, HDD led, reset are the main ones on most cases). You can't really "hurt" anything during this, short of trying to force a plug where it doesn't go.
As a (very broad) guide, I found this video to be super helpful. As said above, you'll want to meticulously double-check everything you're plugging in with your specific mobo manual, but they go through the wiring process pretty step-by-step here so I at least knew what to look for.
This is going to sound a bit flippant but srsly read the manual. It's all in there. Every motherboard company is incentivized to direct their users how to connect up their motherboards so that those users can have a working computer. I have honestly brought a mobo manual with me into the bathroom before. Mark it up. Highlight passages. Dog ear pages.
That being said, if you have specific questions, feel free to ask us. Don't be afraid to take some pictures and post them somewhere we can check them.
Before you put it in, you'll probably want to put in the cpu, it's fan, and smaller components (ram, nvme drives) first, probably want to leave the gpu too later.
Then you go ahead and screw it into the standoffs in your case.
Then you plug everything in, I usually go bottom to top, since the awkward things like the front facing sata ports and case jumpers are usually near the bottom, whereas the main power and fan headers usually have more clearance at the top. It's a lot easier to do them if you don't have the gpu in.
I usually go a quick power check to make sure all the fans are working at that point too
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($237.95 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.14 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ Canada Computers)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($216.99 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB TUF OC Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.50 @ Vuugo)
Power Supply: Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($134.99 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
Total: $749.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-26 14:56 EDT-0400
Looked in my motherboard manual and the solid white LED is a VGA issue. Swapped out to HDMI and the monitor detected that but even after logging into windows and switching back to displayport it's not getting a signal.
Googled about this and a common solution seems to just power cycle the monitor. I did that, waited a minute before turning it back on and displayport works. If this is going to happen every time I boot my PC, I might just buy another HDMI cable...
I was able to log on with HDMI, switched cables to displayport and get no signal. Tested both the displayport jacks on my card. When I powered cycled the monitor displayport started working.
I'm working now I don't have a chance yet to see if the issue repeats.
Edit: Got back home and rebooted a couple of times, seems like the displayport connection is working fine now.
GPU -> DP cable -> monitor can be a bit finicky initially.
We had the same problem with laptops at work. Once it was working we had no repeat issues.