speaking of the base, I kind of what to add a tuft of dead grass from army painter to add a little more dimension to it - will snag once the world re-opens
Vanguard on
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
The vallejo metallic medium I ordered arrives today. Pretty excited to see what I can do with.
Also have some UV resin and the fur green stuff press coming from green stuff world so I can wolf up my dreadnoughts with ease.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Getting the hang of this type of painting I think.
gt: Bobby2Socks | steam: Billy Boot-Snatcher
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Apparently I can't buy a new nozzle for my airbrush. The company that makes it doesn't have replacement nozzles or anything on their website. Thay is a bit frustrating.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The company is mr hobby. I bought one of their creos airbrushes.
I found a website selling them but they are $25 and out if stock. I can drop $50 and get the nozzle, a needle, and an air cap but that is nearly half the cost of a whole new airbrush.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Paranoid germaphobe question and basically a dumb question.
I got some new Vallejo and green stuff world paint in the mail and the germaphobe part of me wants to wipe the bottles down with some bleach wipes.
That won't harm the paint, right?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
I can't imagine it would seep through the glass or whatever the lid is made out of.
I mean worst case scenario just let them sit there for a while. It doesnt last forever.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I ended up using lysol bleach wipes but next time I'm gonna use soap and water next time.
The bottles look fine and weirdly the labels seem totally fine too.
No idea how to tell if they are messed up though. Two of the bottles are colorshift and the other two are metallic medium.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I'm really starting to hate the paint dropper bottles. They keep getting clogged and I clear it but paint still wont come out and then the top pops off and I lose almost an entire bottle of paint.
The evil forest that got sent to me as a replacement seems to be fine after looking at all the spilled contents on my went pallete.
I'm really starting to prefer GWs paint bottles.
The metallic medium is weird. I find it works extremely well with contrast paints but I need to find the right ratio with regular paints to make it really work.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited March 2020
I'm a dropper man myself. Only dropper of any brand I've ever had any issue with is when one was accidentally tipped on it's side and sat that way for like 9 months. I never used the old citadel pots but I seriously don't like the new style.
Edit: This is coming from someone who paints D&D minis one off, and doesn't batch armies. There might be trade offs I don't see.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I've had to clear clogs out of any number of my dropper bottle paints, and I'd still 1000% take them over pots.
I'm finding the ones with clogs are older and needed some TLC on the paint anyway (thinning, vigorous shaking w/ agitators), so it really doesn't bother me.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I don't know, I'm mostly just very frustrated that I lost 3/4 of this paint when I was so looking forward to using it. It was also a replacement for the first bottle I bought because the pigmentation in the first was all fucked up.
I've had this happen with my white fluorescent paint and a red paint from scale 75. There was one other that I had a big spill on but I can't remember.
I've definitely knocked over a bottle of agrax once and one of the contrast paints so it's not like disaster doesn't happen there.
I figured since I can't get chaos black and wraithbone primer that I'll get a big bottle of black vallejo primer and some pots of wraithbone to run through the airbrush for a zenithal.
Really hoping I have enough paint to paint all my Skaven and Space Wolves. Maybe even my Tau and finally do the Maliwan theme.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I like the citadel pots, but yeah the tall ones used for contrast and washes can be a little tippy. That's especially bad news for the contrasts, which are relatively pricey.
P3 pots would be the best if the flap for opening the lid didn't break, causing me to require a screwdriver just to open it.
That fact places those pots at the bottom of the list for me.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I like the citadel pots, but yeah the tall ones used for contrast and washes can be a little tippy. That's especially bad news for the contrasts, which are relatively pricey.
This is why GW make those rubber pot stands which are actually quite good and grippy on all the current Citadel pots.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I certainly have issues with droppers, but I don't find it's because paint has clogged them. There are ones I've been able to open up and verify - with no paint in them once they're washed out - that the plastic tip just doesn't actually have an opening in it. I just keep a pin and a partially uncurled paper clip nearby and poke a hole into any dropper that isn't dispensing properly. Can't think of a time I've really had trouble since I started doing that.
P3 pots would be the best if the flap for opening the lid didn't break, causing me to require a screwdriver just to open it.
That fact places those pots at the bottom of the list for me.
They don't anymore. The hinges and flaps were updated several years ago.
Droppers are superior to me for a single, simple reason - easier to consistently thin paints when I can actually measure one side of the equation, even if it's fairly imprecisely.
gt: Bobby2Socks | steam: Billy Boot-Snatcher
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
All of my silver/gold metallics have finally died. Does anyone have a preferred brand? I used to have Reaper brand gold nd silver, but they were not good.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
All of my silver/gold metallics have finally died. Does anyone have a preferred brand? I used to have Reaper brand gold nd silver, but they were not good.
Scale75 at the very top of the list. Their Black Metal is just ... /chefkiss
Citadel, P3, and Vallejo Model Air/ Metal Color are all great.
Stay away from Reaper, Army Painter, and Vallejo Game/Model Color. Their metallics are all sparkly poop.
I like the citadel pots, but yeah the tall ones used for contrast and washes can be a little tippy. That's especially bad news for the contrasts, which are relatively pricey.
This is why GW make those rubber pot stands which are actually quite good and grippy on all the current Citadel pots.
Selling a rubber foot that prevents your brand's paint pots from tipping over due to their top-heavy construction is the most "Games Workshop" thing I've heard of in a while.
+5
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
All of my silver/gold metallics have finally died. Does anyone have a preferred brand? I used to have Reaper brand gold nd silver, but they were not good.
Scale75 at the very top of the list. Their Black Metal is just ... /chefkiss
Citadel, P3, and Vallejo Model Air/ Metal Color are all great.
Stay away from Reaper, Army Painter, and Vallejo Game/Model Color. Their metallics are all sparkly poop.
Do you have any examples of the black metal color? I've been looking for something to paint the non-armor plate parts of my dreadnoughts and I was getting ready to use vallejo metal color burnt iron and then gun metal grey over that but if I can save a step I'd like to.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Posts
Got that corpsey look going on.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
Yes, I used Agrellan Earth but I also primed it to make it more rugged.
From there: Rhinox Hide base, and then drybrushing doombull brown, jokero orange, troll slayer orange, and ushbati bone in that order
@pardzh
speaking of the base, I kind of what to add a tuft of dead grass from army painter to add a little more dimension to it - will snag once the world re-opens
Also have some UV resin and the fur green stuff press coming from green stuff world so I can wolf up my dreadnoughts with ease.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Getting the hang of this type of painting I think.
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The company is mr hobby. I bought one of their creos airbrushes.
I found a website selling them but they are $25 and out if stock. I can drop $50 and get the nozzle, a needle, and an air cap but that is nearly half the cost of a whole new airbrush.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I got some new Vallejo and green stuff world paint in the mail and the germaphobe part of me wants to wipe the bottles down with some bleach wipes.
That won't harm the paint, right?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The bottles are made of whatever plastic they make their dropper bottles out of.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
The bottles look fine and weirdly the labels seem totally fine too.
No idea how to tell if they are messed up though. Two of the bottles are colorshift and the other two are metallic medium.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The evil forest that got sent to me as a replacement seems to be fine after looking at all the spilled contents on my went pallete.
I'm really starting to prefer GWs paint bottles.
The metallic medium is weird. I find it works extremely well with contrast paints but I need to find the right ratio with regular paints to make it really work.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
This is a WIP, but the pieces in progress are not attached yet. There's a base and an umbrella I'm going to get to tomorrow I hope.
Don't @ me.
EDIT: And artist arcylic/oils in the tubes are 1000x better than the damn lot of em.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Edit: This is coming from someone who paints D&D minis one off, and doesn't batch armies. There might be trade offs I don't see.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I'm finding the ones with clogs are older and needed some TLC on the paint anyway (thinning, vigorous shaking w/ agitators), so it really doesn't bother me.
I've had this happen with my white fluorescent paint and a red paint from scale 75. There was one other that I had a big spill on but I can't remember.
I've definitely knocked over a bottle of agrax once and one of the contrast paints so it's not like disaster doesn't happen there.
I figured since I can't get chaos black and wraithbone primer that I'll get a big bottle of black vallejo primer and some pots of wraithbone to run through the airbrush for a zenithal.
Really hoping I have enough paint to paint all my Skaven and Space Wolves. Maybe even my Tau and finally do the Maliwan theme.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
That fact places those pots at the bottom of the list for me.
This is why GW make those rubber pot stands which are actually quite good and grippy on all the current Citadel pots.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
They don't anymore. The hinges and flaps were updated several years ago.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Ahhhh, too bad.
I'll have to keep using my drill/holesaw as a vortex mixer
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I love the new CSM models so much.
I've never had a problem just doing a normal shake on my scale 75 paints and getting good pigmentation.
What is your paint doing?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Nothing bad... I'd just read that they need more of a shake than other brands of paint
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Nah. If anything it's less. Vallejo is far worse when it comes to separation in my experience.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Scale75 at the very top of the list. Their Black Metal is just ... /chefkiss
Citadel, P3, and Vallejo Model Air/ Metal Color are all great.
Stay away from Reaper, Army Painter, and Vallejo Game/Model Color. Their metallics are all sparkly poop.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Selling a rubber foot that prevents your brand's paint pots from tipping over due to their top-heavy construction is the most "Games Workshop" thing I've heard of in a while.
Do you have any examples of the black metal color? I've been looking for something to paint the non-armor plate parts of my dreadnoughts and I was getting ready to use vallejo metal color burnt iron and then gun metal grey over that but if I can save a step I'd like to.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.