For solidworks, they only recommend quadro or radeon pro cards. From their site:
While a high-end graphics card sounds like it will give much better performance, the amount of money involved won’t see a dramatic boost. Investing in a faster CPU and SSD drive will provide much greater gain in performance.
For SOLIDWORKS Visualize users, renderings leverage the GPU directly so investing in a powerful graphics card is beneficial. All past versions of SOLIDWORKS Visualize supported NVIDIA Quadro graphics cards. However ONLY SOLIDWORKS Visualize 2020 supports AMD Radeon Pro graphics cards.
Solidworks IME tends to run fairly well with standard consumer cards though I don't do much visualization work. Suppose it really depends on how much of a premium they want to pay for the workstation cards.
Also for CPU stuff on Solidworks it is effectively single threaded so clock speed matters more than normal. They've made some efforts in recent years to make better use of multi-cpu stuff but the core of what it is doing is essential linear and doesn't take to being broken up well. Again this is one of those trade off situations and will be heavily influenced by how many large assemblies they do or if they really get into FEA stuff.
1. A pair of engineer friends want to build drafting PC's! This is pretty out of my wheel house, but is there some general guidance when it comes to picking GPU's for something like this? Primary usage is drafting, but they'd like to do some gaming as well... Threadrippers and Titans? Or Quadro's? What's the hotness for a PC like that?
2. A fellow business owner in my area is looking for a cheap GPU to do triple monitors with... What cheap but not dogshit value like the GT710?
It really depends what they are currently working with. An old acquaintance of mine was looking for a computer to do drafting and finishing work at home, and asked me for help. With his budget, the best I could find was a 17 inch ASUS ROG gamer laptop.
It was significantly faster than the workstations he was using at work, to the point where he started taking it to work (on his dirtbike, no less!) instead of using their slow and dumb computers.
If you're really looking for maximum performance and they have a real budget to work with, then yeah, you're going to want Quadro cards, as many cores as you can get in your processors, and so much RAM the NSA gets worried and starts following your online purchasing habits.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
i live in a country with a batshit crazy president and no, english is not my first language
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HonkHonk is this poster.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
edited April 2020
We use threadrippers or even higher end consumer Ryzen's for our workstations now (maya, solidedge, keyshot, renderman, after effects etc.). Threadrippers slays, they work great.
I have a $100 Quadro card that is like 15cm long and it works great for all of those programs, but would strain with more complex CAD scenes. A lot of these applications still rely mainly on CPU power even for real time, it's worth checking out the specifics of the programs you will use. With this cheap ass quadro card I can handle Maya scenes with approaching a hundred million polygons and it does slow down but not a lot. Real CAD softwares are more sensitive for GPU from what I understand.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
A significant upgrade is going to cost more than $300 for new parts because you're looking at a new motherboard, CPU, RAM and GPU. The only part you can upgrade in isolation is the GPU.
You might, if you're lucky, be able to upgrade the CPU if you can find one second-hand, but people selling Intel CPUs seem to have rather unrealistic ideas about their value.
So that takes you to $360, but you'll have a reasonably up to date PC that has viable upgrade options - you can add a much stronger CPU, or a much better GPU or an NVME drive later when you feel the need.
You could shave a few dollars by looking for a second hand GPU, or just not buying a new GPU if you're serious about not caring about the pretties, but I feel like that video card you have straight up won't work with a lot of stuff nowadays.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
More specifics like what games exactly would be a good start. You may be able to get away with just a GPU upgrade at this point to get you playing something somewhat new.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
If the budget is 300 USD, a used i5-670 or 680 will fit in that socket and provide a credible upgrade (40% higher clocks). Make sure the BIOS is on the last revision so there are no support issues.
For the GPU, a 1650 Super or 5500XT will blow most of the rest of your budget, but could credibly be carried up to a new system if you get some more scratch together later to do the CPU/Mobo/RAM.
I don't have any read on the used GPU market - if you can find something good from a previous generation for less than $150, I'd go for it. With the "new" GPUs the cards under the $180-$200 bracket are not good enough value to be worth considering.
I don't think I'd trust a 10 year old PSU with shiny new parts, either, no matter how good it was 10 years ago.
Yeah.
Unlike digital components, electronic ones can degrade, and a lot of the safety measures these PSU's employ to keep your PC safe from sudden shock death can also degrade over time.
10 years is a good run for a PSU.
+2
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HonkHonk is this poster.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
I'm doing a build for my sister and she had a pretty hard budget limit, and also ridiculously strict space requirements. I found exactly one ITX case that would work. She does play games but mainly just The Sims 4 and WoW. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2rGB4n
(Monitor for bonus: Philips 27" 1080p, 276E9QDSB)
(Windows 10)
My thinking was essentially that the Ryzen is good but also it's literally the cheapest thing available. You can get an old i3 for $10 less but that's about it and at that point why bother. The 2600 also seems to have very low thermals which would be good for this case. I had picked a Corsair SF600X power supply but ran everything through a wattage calculator and it gave me an estimation for 300W. I cut the PSU and went with the kit PSU to save around $100 since small form factor PSU's are expensive.
One should probably have 16GB at least. Being an ITX board it only has two slots. The mobo is the cheapest ITX board available here.
The video card was one of the few designs for 1650 I could find which blows air out of the case. Most 1650 designs seem to be 2 fan blowers. 1650 is the only card that makes sense, 1050 cards are about $10 cheaper, 1660 cards are much more expensive. AMD cards around the same performance use too much power. A 1650 seems like the logical step.
The two 120mm fans will be sucking in air directly below the video card with this case, the CPU will use a vent directly above and use the stock cooler. In case the stock cooler is too high I will get something low profile to make it work.
Being Sweden this comes in at $1174 towards a budget of $1200 including price for a new monitor.
Would be appreciated if anything here stands out as dumb considering. I have built ample ITX computers but nothing remotely as tight as this.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
If the budget is 300 USD, a used i5-670 or 680 will fit in that socket and provide a credible upgrade (40% higher clocks). Make sure the BIOS is on the last revision so there are no support issues.
For the GPU, a 1650 Super or 5500XT will blow most of the rest of your budget, but could credibly be carried up to a new system if you get some more scratch together later to do the CPU/Mobo/RAM.
I don't have any read on the used GPU market - if you can find something good from a previous generation for less than $150, I'd go for it. With the "new" GPUs the cards under the $180-$200 bracket are not good enough value to be worth considering.
Those processors are 2 cores/4 threads, the one he has is 4/4. Is that an improvement even with clock speeds? Though maybe if you can get one for $50 or less it might be worth trying.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
If the budget is 300 USD, a used i5-670 or 680 will fit in that socket and provide a credible upgrade (40% higher clocks). Make sure the BIOS is on the last revision so there are no support issues.
For the GPU, a 1650 Super or 5500XT will blow most of the rest of your budget, but could credibly be carried up to a new system if you get some more scratch together later to do the CPU/Mobo/RAM.
I don't have any read on the used GPU market - if you can find something good from a previous generation for less than $150, I'd go for it. With the "new" GPUs the cards under the $180-$200 bracket are not good enough value to be worth considering.
Those processors are 2 cores/4 threads, the one he has is 4/4. Is that an improvement even with clock speeds? Though maybe if you can get one for $50 or less it might be worth trying.
Thanks @V1m , @a5ehren , @Pixelated Pixie , @jungleroomx . After reading what you all said and just looking at other thoughts online, I think it's best that I just keep using what I have for until it all dies and not spend money on it. I'll most likely play 3-5 hours a week on it so it's not worth the investment. Thanks again.
i live in a country with a batshit crazy president and no, english is not my first language
I'm doing a build for my sister and she had a pretty hard budget limit, and also ridiculously strict space requirements. I found exactly one ITX case that would work. She does play games but mainly just The Sims 4 and WoW. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2rGB4n
(Monitor for bonus: Philips 27" 1080p, 276E9QDSB)
(Windows 10)
My thinking was essentially that the Ryzen is good but also it's literally the cheapest thing available. You can get an old i3 for $10 less but that's about it and at that point why bother. The 2600 also seems to have very low thermals which would be good for this case. I had picked a Corsair SF600X power supply but ran everything through a wattage calculator and it gave me an estimation for 300W. I cut the PSU and went with the kit PSU to save around $100 since small form factor PSU's are expensive.
One should probably have 16GB at least. Being an ITX board it only has two slots. The mobo is the cheapest ITX board available here.
The video card was one of the few designs for 1650 I could find which blows air out of the case. Most 1650 designs seem to be 2 fan blowers. 1650 is the only card that makes sense, 1050 cards are about $10 cheaper, 1660 cards are much more expensive. AMD cards around the same performance use too much power. A 1650 seems like the logical step.
The two 120mm fans will be sucking in air directly below the video card with this case, the CPU will use a vent directly above and use the stock cooler. In case the stock cooler is too high I will get something low profile to make it work.
Being Sweden this comes in at $1174 towards a budget of $1200 including price for a new monitor.
Would be appreciated if anything here stands out as dumb considering. I have built ample ITX computers but nothing remotely as tight as this.
Check to see if your stores of choice have the Ryzen 1600 AF in stock. It's basically a 2600 but cheaper. But it's important you get a 1600 AF, not the regular 1600.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
If the budget is 300 USD, a used i5-670 or 680 will fit in that socket and provide a credible upgrade (40% higher clocks). Make sure the BIOS is on the last revision so there are no support issues.
For the GPU, a 1650 Super or 5500XT will blow most of the rest of your budget, but could credibly be carried up to a new system if you get some more scratch together later to do the CPU/Mobo/RAM.
I don't have any read on the used GPU market - if you can find something good from a previous generation for less than $150, I'd go for it. With the "new" GPUs the cards under the $180-$200 bracket are not good enough value to be worth considering.
Those processors are 2 cores/4 threads, the one he has is 4/4. Is that an improvement even with clock speeds? Though maybe if you can get one for $50 or less it might be worth trying.
Hi. I have a company issued MBP but with WFH a new reality, I am thinking of playing some old games on my almost 10 year old desktop PC. Mostly non graphic intensive strategy games. Here's the specs of the desktop I built in 2010. I think the only things that may still be decent these days are the case and the power supply? I guess I can keep the SSD and HDD too. If I had $300 budget, which would be the thing(s) that I should replace? Any recommendations? Thanks.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
If the budget is 300 USD, a used i5-670 or 680 will fit in that socket and provide a credible upgrade (40% higher clocks). Make sure the BIOS is on the last revision so there are no support issues.
For the GPU, a 1650 Super or 5500XT will blow most of the rest of your budget, but could credibly be carried up to a new system if you get some more scratch together later to do the CPU/Mobo/RAM.
I don't have any read on the used GPU market - if you can find something good from a previous generation for less than $150, I'd go for it. With the "new" GPUs the cards under the $180-$200 bracket are not good enough value to be worth considering.
Those processors are 2 cores/4 threads, the one he has is 4/4. Is that an improvement even with clock speeds? Though maybe if you can get one for $50 or less it might be worth trying.
There comes a point where one is throwing good money after bad.
Agreed, that's why I'd recommend overclocking what they have if they want to squeeze out a little extra performance. Even a tower heatsink that fit LGA1156 if bought new would fit AM4 as well.
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Depending on what simulations you run and if they're clock-dependent, you could also benefit from an AMD chip. I want to say there's a lot of benchmarks out there for a wide variety of simulation software.
Just a heads up, as you might be much better served by an AMD chip dependent entirely on your workload. There's some things that a 3900 or 3950 might be much more beneficial for, or they might be worse.
So I killed my K70 (again!) by spilling things in it. It's probably recoverable by way of disassembly and cleaning, but I don't really like the keyboard so I was looking at getting a new one.
Wants are:
1) lower profile (vs k70) - One of my most disliked things about the k70 is how regularly I mistype things or accidentally hit the windows/rightclck buttons with my right hand, b/c of how tall the keys are
2) Reasonable noise level - It doesn't need to be ultra silent, but I don't want IBM level click-clak. k70- had reds and a was a bit much, so i'm thinking browns or the newer silent reds
3) Num pad. Not negotiable.
4) Multimedia keys (volume, play/stop, ffwd/rwd,mute)
5) Wired
RGB is not necessary, but not a game changer. Extra USB ports on the keyboard are nice, but not needed.
*EDIT* - waterproofing would be huge. I kill keyboards way too often by being clumsy and drinking at my desk :P
Based on a quick research, the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 LOW PROFILE looks to be a solid contender. Logitech has a similar one but was more expensive and seemed to lacka mute key. Steelseries did not have any low profile options, and I did not look at Razer as I have not heard good things about that company latetly. Any other thoughts? The K70 lowpro is already more than I really wanted to spedn, but it's managable.
Bullhead on
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Depending on what simulations you run and if they're clock-dependent, you could also benefit from an AMD chip. I want to say there's a lot of benchmarks out there for a wide variety of simulation software.
Just a heads up, as you might be much better served by an AMD chip dependent entirely on your workload. There's some things that a 3900 or 3950 might be much more beneficial for, or they might be worse.
Puget is awesome! I had seen some reports that per-clock performance was king for CAD workloads, so I thought sticking with Intel for his 95% work related PC would be preferable. The second build i'm doing is ABSOLUTELY going 3900x. $5K is the budget for each machine.
This is the rough draft for the second machine. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/kwkLq3 He is predominantly drafting, but is expecting to use this for 50/50 work/gaming.
He's already using an Alienware with a 7700K and a 1080ti, so I'm thinking of repurposing the 64GB of RAM he has to keep the build under 5K (though I NEED to see what speed the sold him, as Ryzen desperately wants fast RAM).
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
So I killed my K70 (again!) by spilling things in it. It's probably recoverable by way of disassembly and cleaning, but I don't really like the keyboard so I was looking at getting a new one.
Wants are:
1) lower profile (vs k70) - One of my most disliked things about the k70 is how regularly I mistype things or accidentally hit the windows/rightclck buttons with my right hand, b/c of how tall the keys are
2) Reasonable noise level - It doesn't need to be ultra silent, but I don't want IBM level click-clak. k70- had reds and a was a bit much, so i'm thinking browns or the newer silent reds
3) Num pad. Not negotiable.
4) Multimedia keys (volume, play/stop, ffwd/rwd,mute)
5) Wired
RGB is not necessary, but not a game changer. Extra USB ports on the keyboard are nice, but not needed.
*EDIT* - waterproofing would be huge. I kill keyboards way too often by being clumsy and drinking at my desk :P
Based on a quick research, the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 LOW PROFILE looks to be a solid contender. Logitech has a similar one but was more expensive and seemed to lacka mute key. Steelseries did not have any low profile options, and I did not look at Razer as I have not heard good things about that company latetly. Any other thoughts? The K70 lowpro is already more than I really wanted to spedn, but it's managable.
Roccat Vulcano Aimo 120
It's $10 more but it looks like it has everything you'd want
So I killed my K70 (again!) by spilling things in it. It's probably recoverable by way of disassembly and cleaning, but I don't really like the keyboard so I was looking at getting a new one.
Wants are:
1) lower profile (vs k70) - One of my most disliked things about the k70 is how regularly I mistype things or accidentally hit the windows/rightclck buttons with my right hand, b/c of how tall the keys are
2) Reasonable noise level - It doesn't need to be ultra silent, but I don't want IBM level click-clak. k70- had reds and a was a bit much, so i'm thinking browns or the newer silent reds
3) Num pad. Not negotiable.
4) Multimedia keys (volume, play/stop, ffwd/rwd,mute)
5) Wired
RGB is not necessary, but not a game changer. Extra USB ports on the keyboard are nice, but not needed.
*EDIT* - waterproofing would be huge. I kill keyboards way too often by being clumsy and drinking at my desk :P
Based on a quick research, the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 LOW PROFILE looks to be a solid contender. Logitech has a similar one but was more expensive and seemed to lacka mute key. Steelseries did not have any low profile options, and I did not look at Razer as I have not heard good things about that company latetly. Any other thoughts? The K70 lowpro is already more than I really wanted to spedn, but it's managable.
Roccat Vulcano Aimo 120
It's $10 more but it looks like it has everything you'd want
Also, the Aimo 122 looks sick
That 's pretty sexy, though it's missing play/stop/ffd/rwd. I've vaguely heard of Roccat, but never owned anythign of theirs.
So I'm thinking I'll get a Ryzen 7 3700X to upgrade my aging 4770k. Any motherboard recommendations? I'll need a new case too as my current one is old and tiny, a Corsair 250D. I like it, but I wanna go big and spacious and quiet. Presumably I'll want to use not the stock cooler too I suppose? I don't have an m.2 drive but I hear good things compared to the regular SSDs I have, and I could always use more storage.
Hi team! This lockdown has me finally wanting to bump my PC up to spec since my last upgrade... (checks order history) seven years ago!? I am in the very early stages of planning for a mid-range gaming PC that will allow me to at least play upcoming titles (e.g. Cyberpunk) and hopefully last me for a few years. I am generally multi-tasking, watching video on one monitor and playing something on the other. Memory has been an issue so I'm thinking of making the leap to 32GB rather than 16GB, which I'm hoping will provide me with a degree of future-proofing.
Here's what I have:
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Mid Tower
SSD: Samsung 840 Series 120GB SATA3 SSD
HDD: 1TB/3TB drives (don't have details in front of me, but they're fine)
PSU: Seasonic SSP-650RT 650W
Mobo: ASUS Z87-A Intel Z87 ATX Haswell LGA1150
CPU: Intel Haswell Core i5 4670K 3.40GHz 6MB LGA1150
RAM: Mushkin Blackline FrostByte 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600 CL9
GPU: Gigabyte GV-N760OC-2GD GeForce GTX760 Overclocked 2GB GDDR5 PCI-E3.0
I am planning to re-use the case and storage, and hopefully the PSU too? With that in mind I am looking at the following. I am pricing this all up from a local (NZ) retailer, based on a default 'mid-range' build from another site.
Unsure about any of these component choices.
- The suggested GPU upgrade is a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER Windforce OC but that is about a 25% price increase over the 5700.
- I picked the mATX mobo because I couldn't see any real reason to pay for the ATX version (tomahawk).
- Hoping my 650W PSU will be OK.
- Splashed on the RAM a bit, based on my assumption that I will appreciate the 32GB in future. Not sure about the specific variant though. (Also I've seen comments that I'd be better off with 16GB RAM and a better GPU, if it came down to picking between).
All input/suggestions/corrections are welcome!
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
edited April 2020
Roccat is a solid brand. Their Titan switches have been praised as being p solid alternatives to Cherry switches, and the software is solid.
Corsair is a good brand as well. So it's not like I'm against going for them too.
Transparency: I personally have a Steelseries Apex 7 Tkl, which I cant recommend for your case since its media key is an all-in-one button like youd find on headphones (press to play/stop, double to skip, triple to start song over).
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Also for CPU stuff on Solidworks it is effectively single threaded so clock speed matters more than normal. They've made some efforts in recent years to make better use of multi-cpu stuff but the core of what it is doing is essential linear and doesn't take to being broken up well. Again this is one of those trade off situations and will be heavily influenced by how many large assemblies they do or if they really get into FEA stuff.
It really depends what they are currently working with. An old acquaintance of mine was looking for a computer to do drafting and finishing work at home, and asked me for help. With his budget, the best I could find was a 17 inch ASUS ROG gamer laptop.
It was significantly faster than the workstations he was using at work, to the point where he started taking it to work (on his dirtbike, no less!) instead of using their slow and dumb computers.
If you're really looking for maximum performance and they have a real budget to work with, then yeah, you're going to want Quadro cards, as many cores as you can get in your processors, and so much RAM the NSA gets worried and starts following your online purchasing habits.
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3R Corei7/i5, P55, DC DDR3, SATA3, LGA1156
CPU: INTEL Core i5-750 SLBLC, 2.66GHz, 8MB L3, DC DDR3, LGA1156
Memory: GSKILL F3-10666CL7D-8GBECO G.SKILL ECO DDR3-1333Mhz CL7 (7-7-7-21) 1.35V
SSD: Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Single Unit Version Internal Solid State Drive MZ-7TE120BW
HDD: WESTERNDIGITAL WD5001AALS Caviar Black 500GB 32MB 7200rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s
GPU: PALIT PLT-9800GT-512MB 9800GT Green, PCI-E16 2.0, 512MB/256bit GDDR3, HDMI, DVI, D-SubCase: ANTEC Three Hundred Güç kaynaksız
PSU: OCZ OCZ550FTY-EU Fatal1ty Serisi 550W 80+
I have a $100 Quadro card that is like 15cm long and it works great for all of those programs, but would strain with more complex CAD scenes. A lot of these applications still rely mainly on CPU power even for real time, it's worth checking out the specifics of the programs you will use. With this cheap ass quadro card I can handle Maya scenes with approaching a hundred million polygons and it does slow down but not a lot. Real CAD softwares are more sensitive for GPU from what I understand.
A significant upgrade is going to cost more than $300 for new parts because you're looking at a new motherboard, CPU, RAM and GPU. The only part you can upgrade in isolation is the GPU.
You might, if you're lucky, be able to upgrade the CPU if you can find one second-hand, but people selling Intel CPUs seem to have rather unrealistic ideas about their value.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1156
As an alternative, you could potentially consider
a Ryzen 1600 ~$85
a B450 Tomahawk ~$75
16Gb of DDR4 ~$90
So that's about $250
A new R570 will be ~$110
So that takes you to $360, but you'll have a reasonably up to date PC that has viable upgrade options - you can add a much stronger CPU, or a much better GPU or an NVME drive later when you feel the need.
You could shave a few dollars by looking for a second hand GPU, or just not buying a new GPU if you're serious about not caring about the pretties, but I feel like that video card you have straight up won't work with a lot of stuff nowadays.
More specifics like what games exactly would be a good start. You may be able to get away with just a GPU upgrade at this point to get you playing something somewhat new.
If the budget is 300 USD, a used i5-670 or 680 will fit in that socket and provide a credible upgrade (40% higher clocks). Make sure the BIOS is on the last revision so there are no support issues.
For the GPU, a 1650 Super or 5500XT will blow most of the rest of your budget, but could credibly be carried up to a new system if you get some more scratch together later to do the CPU/Mobo/RAM.
I don't have any read on the used GPU market - if you can find something good from a previous generation for less than $150, I'd go for it. With the "new" GPUs the cards under the $180-$200 bracket are not good enough value to be worth considering.
Yeah.
Unlike digital components, electronic ones can degrade, and a lot of the safety measures these PSU's employ to keep your PC safe from sudden shock death can also degrade over time.
10 years is a good run for a PSU.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2rGB4n
Case: Fractal Design Node 202 + power supply (kit)
PSU: Fractal Design Integra 450W (kit)
Mobo: Asus ROG B450-I Gaming mITX AM4
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600
RAM: Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB 2666Hz, CL16)
SSD: Samsung 860 QVO 1TB
Video card: Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1650 4GB Mini ITX OC
Extra fans: 2x120mm FD R3
(Monitor for bonus: Philips 27" 1080p, 276E9QDSB)
(Windows 10)
My thinking was essentially that the Ryzen is good but also it's literally the cheapest thing available. You can get an old i3 for $10 less but that's about it and at that point why bother. The 2600 also seems to have very low thermals which would be good for this case. I had picked a Corsair SF600X power supply but ran everything through a wattage calculator and it gave me an estimation for 300W. I cut the PSU and went with the kit PSU to save around $100 since small form factor PSU's are expensive.
One should probably have 16GB at least. Being an ITX board it only has two slots. The mobo is the cheapest ITX board available here.
The video card was one of the few designs for 1650 I could find which blows air out of the case. Most 1650 designs seem to be 2 fan blowers. 1650 is the only card that makes sense, 1050 cards are about $10 cheaper, 1660 cards are much more expensive. AMD cards around the same performance use too much power. A 1650 seems like the logical step.
The two 120mm fans will be sucking in air directly below the video card with this case, the CPU will use a vent directly above and use the stock cooler. In case the stock cooler is too high I will get something low profile to make it work.
Being Sweden this comes in at $1174 towards a budget of $1200 including price for a new monitor.
Would be appreciated if anything here stands out as dumb considering. I have built ample ITX computers but nothing remotely as tight as this.
Those processors are 2 cores/4 threads, the one he has is 4/4. Is that an improvement even with clock speeds? Though maybe if you can get one for $50 or less it might be worth trying.
Could also try overclocking! Get a big honkin' cooler!
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/core-i5-750-overclock,2438-2.html
Triple-EDIT: Looks like your motherboard might be good for OC-ing too: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/budget-p55-motherboard,2436-6.html
Thank you! It was tricky to make it work on paper with the numbers.
I expect building the thing will be obnoxious, but also fun - like building a custom xbox almost.
I game quite a bit on it, stuff like D3 work really well and mine is only a 13”, so it’s just the Iris video
There comes a point where one is throwing good money after bad.
Yeah, that's not an option as we are prohibited from dual booting. We have access to Amazon Workspaces if we need Windows for any work related reason.
If you're looking to save some more, you can get a non-Samsung NVME drive but I'm not sure what you have available.
Other brands to consider: A-DATA, SiliconPower, Crucial, HP, WD
Check to see if your stores of choice have the Ryzen 1600 AF in stock. It's basically a 2600 but cheaper. But it's important you get a 1600 AF, not the regular 1600.
Ah, I missed that part.
Agreed, that's why I'd recommend overclocking what they have if they want to squeeze out a little extra performance. Even a tower heatsink that fit LGA1156 if bought new would fit AM4 as well.
Solidworks, Includes some rendering and simulation work. 95+% work, nearly no gaming. Thoughts?
That looks good to me.
I will say the 9900 and 3900 trade blows on Solidworks these days. Puget is a good company.
Depending on what simulations you run and if they're clock-dependent, you could also benefit from an AMD chip. I want to say there's a lot of benchmarks out there for a wide variety of simulation software.
Just a heads up, as you might be much better served by an AMD chip dependent entirely on your workload. There's some things that a 3900 or 3950 might be much more beneficial for, or they might be worse.
Wants are:
1) lower profile (vs k70) - One of my most disliked things about the k70 is how regularly I mistype things or accidentally hit the windows/rightclck buttons with my right hand, b/c of how tall the keys are
2) Reasonable noise level - It doesn't need to be ultra silent, but I don't want IBM level click-clak. k70- had reds and a was a bit much, so i'm thinking browns or the newer silent reds
3) Num pad. Not negotiable.
4) Multimedia keys (volume, play/stop, ffwd/rwd,mute)
5) Wired
RGB is not necessary, but not a game changer. Extra USB ports on the keyboard are nice, but not needed.
*EDIT* - waterproofing would be huge. I kill keyboards way too often by being clumsy and drinking at my desk :P
Based on a quick research, the Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 LOW PROFILE looks to be a solid contender. Logitech has a similar one but was more expensive and seemed to lacka mute key. Steelseries did not have any low profile options, and I did not look at Razer as I have not heard good things about that company latetly. Any other thoughts? The K70 lowpro is already more than I really wanted to spedn, but it's managable.
Puget is awesome! I had seen some reports that per-clock performance was king for CAD workloads, so I thought sticking with Intel for his 95% work related PC would be preferable. The second build i'm doing is ABSOLUTELY going 3900x. $5K is the budget for each machine.
This is the rough draft for the second machine. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/kwkLq3 He is predominantly drafting, but is expecting to use this for 50/50 work/gaming.
He's already using an Alienware with a 7700K and a 1080ti, so I'm thinking of repurposing the 64GB of RAM he has to keep the build under 5K (though I NEED to see what speed the sold him, as Ryzen desperately wants fast RAM).
https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/153955/mechanical-keyboards-clickity-clack-code-keyboards-back-in-stock-and-gone#latest
Roccat Vulcano Aimo 120
It's $10 more but it looks like it has everything you'd want
Also, the Aimo 122 looks sick
@Mugsley nope! Though I wasn't looking for that dark rabbit hole of crazy custom build mech keyboards either :P I'll pop in, thanks.
That 's pretty sexy, though it's missing play/stop/ffd/rwd. I've vaguely heard of Roccat, but never owned anythign of theirs.
That pic doesn't do it justice IMO:
https://en.roccat.org/Keyboards/Vulcan-120-AIMO
It lasted for about 5 years, comfortable and durable.
In sad news my g502 hero lightspeed wireless mouse has a left click issue which seems popular. Not even 2 months old.
I’m disappointed to say the least.
Here's what I have:
SSD: Samsung 840 Series 120GB SATA3 SSD
HDD: 1TB/3TB drives (don't have details in front of me, but they're fine)
PSU: Seasonic SSP-650RT 650W
Mobo: ASUS Z87-A Intel Z87 ATX Haswell LGA1150
CPU: Intel Haswell Core i5 4670K 3.40GHz 6MB LGA1150
RAM: Mushkin Blackline FrostByte 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600 CL9
GPU: Gigabyte GV-N760OC-2GD GeForce GTX760 Overclocked 2GB GDDR5 PCI-E3.0
I am planning to re-use the case and storage, and hopefully the PSU too? With that in mind I am looking at the following. I am pricing this all up from a local (NZ) retailer, based on a default 'mid-range' build from another site.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Cooler: AMD Wraith Stealth CPU Cooler
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3200 CL16
GPU: Sapphire RX 5700 XT PULSE 8G
Mobo: MSI B450M MORTAR MAX
Unsure about any of these component choices.
- The suggested GPU upgrade is a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER Windforce OC but that is about a 25% price increase over the 5700.
- I picked the mATX mobo because I couldn't see any real reason to pay for the ATX version (tomahawk).
- Hoping my 650W PSU will be OK.
- Splashed on the RAM a bit, based on my assumption that I will appreciate the 32GB in future. Not sure about the specific variant though. (Also I've seen comments that I'd be better off with 16GB RAM and a better GPU, if it came down to picking between).
All input/suggestions/corrections are welcome!
Corsair is a good brand as well. So it's not like I'm against going for them too.
Transparency: I personally have a Steelseries Apex 7 Tkl, which I cant recommend for your case since its media key is an all-in-one button like youd find on headphones (press to play/stop, double to skip, triple to start song over).