I need some help from the Painting Hivemind. I am working on this model for a painting contest and would love some input on this WIP. I've been focusing on the face/body (the legs and swords and base are not done). This is a 3D printed model and so there are a few imperfections and layer lines that I've had to fight around in places.
The sword is getting repainted today because I hated the way the red looks. Looking at the photo, I need to work on the blending for the armor plates on the forearm and shoulder.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
This might not be the best place to post it, but I got a semi-painted ork army on the cheap, so now I'm doing small improvements to it to bring it to tabletop level. It feels super relaxing to just touch up some boys without trying to do my best, like I usually do with my CSM.
BTW, I got this whole army https://imgur.com/a/MrLPqVr plus a few extra models. After selling off the unnecessary ones, the whole deal costed me $72 :P
I have a box of orks that my brother has been harassing me to do as the bad moon so what you did might really push me over
I like the unclean teeth and various skin tones but two of the heads I have not seen before the yelling one and the one aiming? How did you do the yellow?
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
That painboy’s doc’s tools are really neat. Is that Contrast Basilicanum Grey with a silver edge highlight?
@Brainleech the yelling one is from AoS, the aiming one is from Assault on Black Reach. @Mr_Rose looks like regular washed Leadbelcher, actually. Maybe it's just the lighting/photo that made it look this way. @Khraul Yep! To me the dull-green that GW typically goes for doesn't suit the comical nature of the army. Sure, the orks really stand out from the rest, but I really want to keep this painting fun and lively.
Man, the leg to torso connection on Necron troops is so fiddley I had to super glue it, plastic glue wasn't drying sturdily enough to keep them straight
Man, the leg to torso connection on Necron troops is so fiddley I had to super glue it, plastic glue wasn't drying sturdily enough to keep them straight
This is why I like the revell contacta glue because it can do the tiny parts for the various eldar and the tiny ball socket joints for necrons but it's one of those glues you have less than 5 minutes and it's permanent.
I will dig out the few necrons I did mess up on as they are not hunched over because I was building them not on the bases
You've done an excellent job with this, but you've also made me actually spend time looking at that model. "Ah yes, attached to the front axle, directly in front of the engine intake, the perfect place to put these little grindy-blades! That way if something actually gets chewed up when hit at high speeds, the chunks will fly right in! Flawless!" Fuckin' orcs, man.
It's an Oddboy's newest invention: the meat-powered war wagon. It has to continuously run down victims fuel sourced or it shuts down. It's a practical use of an abundant resource and serves as an incentive for the driver to go all Carmageddon on the enemy!
This might not be the best place to post it, but I got a semi-painted ork army on the cheap, so now I'm doing small improvements to it to bring it to tabletop level. It feels super relaxing to just touch up some boys without trying to do my best, like I usually do with my CSM.
BTW, I got this whole army https://imgur.com/a/MrLPqVr plus a few extra models. After selling off the unnecessary ones, the whole deal costed me $72 :P
@Mayday How do you get such bright vivid colours? What paints do you use?
You've done an excellent job with this, but you've also made me actually spend time looking at that model. "Ah yes, attached to the front axle, directly in front of the engine intake, the perfect place to put these little grindy-blades! That way if something actually gets chewed up when hit at high speeds, the chunks will fly right in! Flawless!" Fuckin' orcs, man.
[Edit] Does it also have two engines? :S
First off, thank you! I'm overly critical of my stuff most of the time and I cut some corners to hit my self imposed deadline. I'd have liked to have put more work into the driver and I think I overdid it with the blood. I'm actually happiest with the base. It's the most work I've ever put into basing a model. (pic pre model attachment below). The part that I wished showed up in photos better is the little oil patch. It's tinted stillwater that's actually just a tiny bit transparent and has an actual oil shimmer from some colorshift paint I applied to it.
Secondly, the comment you made on the mechanics of this thing are the reasons I love orky vehicles so much. Complete nonsense assembly with complete disregard for Osha... I assume the front engine drives the choppy bits and locomotion and the rear engine is the "tellyporta" that lets it go all back to the future if you roll high enough when you advance with it.
@Khraul behind the grunge and blood, that paintjob looks extremely clean for a speedpaint. I bet it'd take me several hours just to put base colours like that o_o
@Dayspring I'm pretty sure my colours are not much more saturated than your average army... it's just that if you take the photo in the correct conditions (mostly with soft lighting from many directions*), you eliminate the satin/matt glare which desaturates colours in typical conditions. I try to stay away from black/brown washes and use hue shifting for my shading, that also helps. A white basecoat also helps, though that of course comes with its own pitfalls.
*I use a large light from above and reflective sheets of paper from below.
Trying to get a feel for how I wanna paint these dudes!
Seems like you already decided on awesome.
Maybe throw in some of these?
Spoiler of season 7
Although might not fit that great in the timeline, now that I notice that your clone is in MK1 armour.
@Khraul behind the grunge and blood, that paintjob looks extremely clean for a speedpaint. I bet it'd take me several hours just to put base colours like that o_o
@Dayspring I'm pretty sure my colours are not much more saturated than your average army... it's just that if you take the photo in the correct conditions (mostly with soft lighting from many directions*), you eliminate the satin/matt glare which desaturates colours in typical conditions. I try to stay away from black/brown washes and use hue shifting for my shading, that also helps. A white basecoat also helps, though that of course comes with its own pitfalls.
*I use a large light from above and reflective sheets of paper from below.
Glad you guys liek the Unsullied! Working on some Skungy Stormcrows ATM, but I did paint this fine piratical fellow to lead them:
Daario Naharis is here to fuck be a cool general who is a consummate professional.
Also why you gotta post a cool Clone J? A friend of mine has just picked up the clone wars starter and I'm desperately trying to not start more games...
Yeah these are just exceptionally poorly designed models
I did misplace the tips to 4 of the rifles in the time I bagged them and then built them
But as you can see I built a few without putting them on the base so I get the rising dead stretch look
Just getting those tips is kind of annoying since I don't need the rifle and it's so tiny I don't think I can fake with a recast
Can I get some photography advice?
The lightbox pic came out ok but this (and other) action shots came out awful, and some vids I took on the table were the same. Is the glare from the overhead light too strong? light reflecting from the battlemat maybe? I really want to up my ability to take pics and maybe do bat reps so any advice about why these look ass and how to fix them would be gladly received.
The camera seems to be adjusted to the light levels of the surrounding and not the model. Also there are some strong shadows right from the top, so maybe some additional lights from the side? Also a narrower focal length to distinguish focused object and background more might help.
Edit: you can improve the shadows probably a bit with basic post processing. I think most phone camera apps and even window's standard picture app, I don't know the name, can do that.
honovere on
+1
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Also have you covered your light sources, to soften them up at all? Also agreed for side or front lights. Some lights that are at the model level or slightly below shooting up.
VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
white primer is way less forgiving than black but the everything looks so much brighter (obviously) that I can't see myself ever going to black primer again unless I was doing something I needed to be dark
white primer is way less forgiving than black but the everything looks so much brighter (obviously) that I can't see myself ever going to black primer again unless I was doing something I needed to be dark
I agree it took me a few years to really try out a black prime coat as my mother did say it was easier to darken items than it was to highlight
Posts
Basically the shields (And the armour in general) is:
1. P3 Molten Bronze Basecoat
2. Wash Agrax Earthshade
3. Drybrush Game Color Bright Bronze
4. Lightly drybrush Bright Bronze/Mithril silver mix
5. Edge highlight Mithril silver.
For the shields I did a light drybrush for stages 3 and 4 and then also stippled some paint onto the shields to get that beaten look.
I need some help from the Painting Hivemind. I am working on this model for a painting contest and would love some input on this WIP. I've been focusing on the face/body (the legs and swords and base are not done). This is a 3D printed model and so there are a few imperfections and layer lines that I've had to fight around in places.
The sword is getting repainted today because I hated the way the red looks. Looking at the photo, I need to work on the blending for the armor plates on the forearm and shoulder.
Spoiler of Gif
BTW, I got this whole army https://imgur.com/a/MrLPqVr plus a few extra models. After selling off the unnecessary ones, the whole deal costed me $72 :P
I like the unclean teeth and various skin tones but two of the heads I have not seen before the yelling one and the one aiming? How did you do the yellow?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
@Mr_Rose looks like regular washed Leadbelcher, actually. Maybe it's just the lighting/photo that made it look this way.
@Khraul Yep! To me the dull-green that GW typically goes for doesn't suit the comical nature of the army. Sure, the orks really stand out from the rest, but I really want to keep this painting fun and lively.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
...A Speedpainted Shokkjump Dragsta
First time using cork basing... Way easier than I'd thought.
Now featuring better photos that my wife took
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
This is why I like the revell contacta glue because it can do the tiny parts for the various eldar and the tiny ball socket joints for necrons but it's one of those glues you have less than 5 minutes and it's permanent.
I will dig out the few necrons I did mess up on as they are not hunched over because I was building them not on the bases
Fuckin' orcs, man.
[Edit]
Does it also have two engines? :S
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
@Mayday How do you get such bright vivid colours? What paints do you use?
First off, thank you! I'm overly critical of my stuff most of the time and I cut some corners to hit my self imposed deadline. I'd have liked to have put more work into the driver and I think I overdid it with the blood. I'm actually happiest with the base. It's the most work I've ever put into basing a model. (pic pre model attachment below). The part that I wished showed up in photos better is the little oil patch. It's tinted stillwater that's actually just a tiny bit transparent and has an actual oil shimmer from some colorshift paint I applied to it.
Secondly, the comment you made on the mechanics of this thing are the reasons I love orky vehicles so much. Complete nonsense assembly with complete disregard for Osha... I assume the front engine drives the choppy bits and locomotion and the rear engine is the "tellyporta" that lets it go all back to the future if you roll high enough when you advance with it.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
@Dayspring I'm pretty sure my colours are not much more saturated than your average army... it's just that if you take the photo in the correct conditions (mostly with soft lighting from many directions*), you eliminate the satin/matt glare which desaturates colours in typical conditions. I try to stay away from black/brown washes and use hue shifting for my shading, that also helps. A white basecoat also helps, though that of course comes with its own pitfalls.
*I use a large light from above and reflective sheets of paper from below.
Trying to get a feel for how I wanna paint these dudes!
Like that. Paint them like that.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Steam: betsuni7
Seems like you already decided on awesome.
Maybe throw in some of these?
Spoiler of season 7
Although might not fit that great in the timeline, now that I notice that your clone is in MK1 armour.
But then it would be a debate of what 7th sky corps? 212th ? the list is endless
seems like i need to up my lighting game then!
They do have Phase II clones though, and they're hard plastic not PVC like Phase I.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Daario Naharis is here to fuck be a cool general who is a consummate professional.
Also why you gotta post a cool Clone J? A friend of mine has just picked up the clone wars starter and I'm desperately trying to not start more games...
I did misplace the tips to 4 of the rifles in the time I bagged them and then built them
But as you can see I built a few without putting them on the base so I get the rising dead stretch look
Just getting those tips is kind of annoying since I don't need the rifle and it's so tiny I don't think I can fake with a recast
Can I get some photography advice?
The lightbox pic came out ok but this (and other) action shots came out awful, and some vids I took on the table were the same. Is the glare from the overhead light too strong? light reflecting from the battlemat maybe? I really want to up my ability to take pics and maybe do bat reps so any advice about why these look ass and how to fix them would be gladly received.
Edit: you can improve the shadows probably a bit with basic post processing. I think most phone camera apps and even window's standard picture app, I don't know the name, can do that.
Also, they aren't terrible shots,
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I feel so bad about not finishing them. Haven't even built anything lately.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I agree it took me a few years to really try out a black prime coat as my mother did say it was easier to darken items than it was to highlight