My second print seemed over exposed and had some issues. So I decided for my third print I'd make something gigantic that'll take 14 hours and if it messes up I'll be real sad.
Today I have learned 3 very important lessons.
1) Don't use the auto support function in Chitubox, it adds a lot of unnecessary supports that are a pain to get off and made my model look worse
2) Start at the shortest curing time and go from there, I think I over cured at 4 minutes
3) My wife finds removing supports on models relaxing so if I need help she wouldn't mind jumping in
So, this weekend I finally slapped that Hemera hotend I got a while back onto my Ender 3, and goddamn, this pushes filament at an amazingly steady rate. I'm totally sold on direct-drive extruders now.
Just check this support out. With the bowden tube support was pretty thin and frail, this looks like a goddamn wall on the print itself. May actually have to tune things down a bit and tweak some settings.
When I'm printing on a raft (like this pic) I had to change the air gap from 0.16mm to 0.24mm, otherwise the print was pretty much welded to the raft.
I also got a plant yesterday that I thought would fit in it. It did not:
So whipped up a 200% scale print. It is comically large and just barely fits in the prusa mini work area:
Debating on painting it. Printed in PETG (it's what was in the printer and I was too lazy to swap out). Took 17 hours. Going to model up a water tray thing and move the plant from its thing to the planter later this week.
I really do want a 3D scanner. Eyeballing those rare guns and whatnot in my 40k pile. Sadly, they're an order of magnitude more expensive than a good 3d Printer, and even then they can't get the resolution needed for wargaming.
I thought for the small stuff you could use the turntable for capturing pictures? I haven't used it, but someone at the makerspace reported good results, though maybe it was simple geometry and didn't take too much work to clean up.
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Crosspost from the tabletop Battletech thread:
A friend of mine printed out something I modeled, a land train tractor unit, on his Phrozen Sonic Mini. Still trying to suss out how to make stuff like panel lines work out.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
And then also got some rainbow filament, which looks awesome!
And also printed a set of 4 ghost wings and then another 4 with a similar color change spot in the spool to try and get the same color gradient. Looks pretty good, but obvious if you have them side by side:
Finally painted one of my Mini prints. Really happy with this one. I have several more queued up including a....challenge for me. Gonna try printing (and painting) this big fellow
Dangit, been getting occasional layer shifts on prints. I suspect this is due to the switch to a direct-drive extruder - with the bowden tube setup the strain point where the filament enters the system is fixed and then the filament is pushed to the extruder from there, but with direct drive the strain point is on the extruder itself, and I suspect there's occasionally a jerk hard enough to make the X stepper driver skip steps as it moves and unspools some filament from the spool, which is to the left of the printer.
I think I can fix that by switching to a longer PTFE tube and fixing the end to the gantry so the strain is there instead of on the extruder and the X stepper driver.
I have this setup now with the direct-drive extruder. tl;dr I think the layer shifting can happen if the extruder moves to the right and yanks some filament off the spool at the same time, causing skipped steps.
0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Are powered spools a thing?
Actually, might be easier to put the spool above the bed, then the ‘jerk’ is perpendicular to the motion causing it.
I have it in a shelf, so that won't work. But I found some spare PTFE tube I had around and zip-tied that to the frame, so let's see if this moves the strain point to the frame instead.
+1
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Ah… I think I see another issue? You might want to do a range of motion test on that in case the tube hitting the shelf above levers it out of the hot end or causes snagging.
Maybe if the tube was fixed to the spool holder somehow…
ManOHokutoKnight of the Bloody FistRegistered Userregular
Does anyone have experience printing the "depths of savage atoll" minis or resin printers in general? I bought them a few days ago and was wondering if they could really be printed without supports as the kickstarter page claims. They'll be done with an anycubic photon s if that makes a difference. I'm sorta scared to waste the uv resin but perhaps that's inevitable.
I figured out part of my problem the lever on my z home switch had pop loose, and needed to be reset. unfortunately I didn't notice this until it done a decent amount of damage to my build sheet. But I got that squared away and got my bed leveled pretty nice.
Does anyone have experience printing the "depths of savage atoll" minis or resin printers in general? I bought them a few days ago and was wondering if they could really be printed without supports as the kickstarter page claims. They'll be done with an anycubic photon s if that makes a difference. I'm sorta scared to waste the uv resin but perhaps that's inevitable.
@Bucketman has a resin printer.
Looking at the model pictures I can only see a couple that look like they would need supports in FDM printer. Not sure about the resin printer supports.
Does anyone have experience printing the "depths of savage atoll" minis or resin printers in general? I bought them a few days ago and was wondering if they could really be printed without supports as the kickstarter page claims. They'll be done with an anycubic photon s if that makes a difference. I'm sorta scared to waste the uv resin but perhaps that's inevitable.
@Bucketman has a resin printer.
Looking at the model pictures I can only see a couple that look like they would need supports in FDM printer. Not sure about the resin printer supports.
Looking at them the kickstarter says little to no supports... But I'm skeptical. I say try it out. It may be a waste of resin but if it turns out looking good then you know for sure and you don't need to add any supports which is awesome
Have filament prices jumped because of the lockdown? It's been a while since I've bought some and everything seems like 30% more expensive, but I could just be misremembering prices.
Also, with summer heat hitting, I've discovered that my garage isn't the best place for filament. My current roll is brittle and unusable for the last ~15%. Would throwing a bag over the filament keep the moisture in, or would just be best to store that in the house?
Have filament prices jumped because of the lockdown? It's been a while since I've bought some and everything seems like 30% more expensive, but I could just be misremembering prices.
Also, with summer heat hitting, I've discovered that my garage isn't the best place for filament. My current roll is brittle and unusable for the last ~15%. Would throwing a bag over the filament keep the moisture in, or would just be best to store that in the house?
Your filament is bad because of moisture. Filament should be stored in an airtight bag or container with dessicant to keep it from absorbing moisture from the air. You can even bake it at low temperatures (like a food dehydrator) to remove moisture. But it only takes a few days in the open air to affect your prints. You'll end up with filament that is swollen and will cause inconsistent flow or maybe even be unable to fit through the machine, it'll create steam bubbles (you can hear the crackle and pops) in the hot end causing inconsistent flow and uncontrollable oozing, and the plastic will have trouble bonding and be brittle.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Yeee my printer part has arrived. Finally I can get back to printing.
+6
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Wanna print a Hylian Shield that's way too big to fit my printer. I've used Meshmixer to slice things up before, but I'm thinking about getting fancy, adding alignment pins to it. Anyone done this before? Is it difficult? :P
My print bed is not quite level, which I think happened while I was moving the printer around messing with the wires. I think I've got it mostly sorted now. However, there is an undesirable amount of flex in the printer due to its acrylic frame. I may need to mount some braces to the printer and screw it down to the table to minimise that. My print head is sitting about 10 degrees colder than it should, but that seems to be cold ambient temperature. And its hot enough to melt PLA anyway so I'm not concerned about that.
edit- boy, i forgot how long prints can take. I thought I'd try one of the files on the SD card, but I guess I was trying out fine printing at the time as this print is taking foooorever. Which is unexpected as the part is intended to be throwaway, but my guess is that I was trying out fine when I was having issues with the printer and looking for ways to solve my problem.
Posts
It's so tiny!
Because why settle for just two printers.
Lead time is crazy though.
A bit of ghosting, but that's unrelated to the hotend. Got another test cube in the fancy new filament printing now.
1) Don't use the auto support function in Chitubox, it adds a lot of unnecessary supports that are a pain to get off and made my model look worse
2) Start at the shortest curing time and go from there, I think I over cured at 4 minutes
3) My wife finds removing supports on models relaxing so if I need help she wouldn't mind jumping in
Just check this support out. With the bowden tube support was pretty thin and frail, this looks like a goddamn wall on the print itself. May actually have to tune things down a bit and tweak some settings.
When I'm printing on a raft (like this pic) I had to change the air gap from 0.16mm to 0.24mm, otherwise the print was pretty much welded to the raft.
If you don't mind me asking, what did it cost?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I think it was 95 British moneys.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I also got a plant yesterday that I thought would fit in it. It did not:
So whipped up a 200% scale print. It is comically large and just barely fits in the prusa mini work area:
Debating on painting it. Printed in PETG (it's what was in the printer and I was too lazy to swap out). Took 17 hours. Going to model up a water tray thing and move the plant from its thing to the planter later this week.
3d Printing app... Bellus3D. Only for making a file for mask fitting.
https://www.bellus3d.com/app
I really do want a 3D scanner. Eyeballing those rare guns and whatnot in my 40k pile. Sadly, they're an order of magnitude more expensive than a good 3d Printer, and even then they can't get the resolution needed for wargaming.
Best leveling and adhesion I've ever had, and my largest base print so far. Feels good.
Steam ID: Good Life
Me, further into the video: Wooooooow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru5N2d2n_4c
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
A friend of mine printed out something I modeled, a land train tractor unit, on his Phrozen Sonic Mini. Still trying to suss out how to make stuff like panel lines work out.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I forgot I made a few more bulbasaur planters:
And then also got some rainbow filament, which looks awesome!
And also printed a set of 4 ghost wings and then another 4 with a similar color change spot in the spool to try and get the same color gradient. Looks pretty good, but obvious if you have them side by side:
Steam ID: Good Life
Increased the size to 175% and changed the position and supports and such, so I'm hoping take 2 is better.
Still having a hard time figuring out supports.
Steam ID: Good Life
I think I can fix that by switching to a longer PTFE tube and fixing the end to the gantry so the strain is there instead of on the extruder and the X stepper driver.
Actually, might be easier to put the spool above the bed, then the ‘jerk’ is perpendicular to the motion causing it.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Maybe if the tube was fixed to the spool holder somehow…
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Steam ID: Good Life
@Bucketman has a resin printer.
Looking at the model pictures I can only see a couple that look like they would need supports in FDM printer. Not sure about the resin printer supports.
Looking at them the kickstarter says little to no supports... But I'm skeptical. I say try it out. It may be a waste of resin but if it turns out looking good then you know for sure and you don't need to add any supports which is awesome
Also, with summer heat hitting, I've discovered that my garage isn't the best place for filament. My current roll is brittle and unusable for the last ~15%. Would throwing a bag over the filament keep the moisture in, or would just be best to store that in the house?
Steam ID: Good Life
Your filament is bad because of moisture. Filament should be stored in an airtight bag or container with dessicant to keep it from absorbing moisture from the air. You can even bake it at low temperatures (like a food dehydrator) to remove moisture. But it only takes a few days in the open air to affect your prints. You'll end up with filament that is swollen and will cause inconsistent flow or maybe even be unable to fit through the machine, it'll create steam bubbles (you can hear the crackle and pops) in the hot end causing inconsistent flow and uncontrollable oozing, and the plastic will have trouble bonding and be brittle.
My print bed is not quite level, which I think happened while I was moving the printer around messing with the wires. I think I've got it mostly sorted now. However, there is an undesirable amount of flex in the printer due to its acrylic frame. I may need to mount some braces to the printer and screw it down to the table to minimise that. My print head is sitting about 10 degrees colder than it should, but that seems to be cold ambient temperature. And its hot enough to melt PLA anyway so I'm not concerned about that.
edit- boy, i forgot how long prints can take. I thought I'd try one of the files on the SD card, but I guess I was trying out fine printing at the time as this print is taking foooorever. Which is unexpected as the part is intended to be throwaway, but my guess is that I was trying out fine when I was having issues with the printer and looking for ways to solve my problem.