StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Calling my Deceiver done.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+15
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Progress, sweet delicious progress! I've been working on these "Predators" for like a month or two now in fits and starts, and finally managed to get them over the finish line.
I struggled mightily with getting the armor to look nice, after having a really good time doing all the flesh in multiple drybrush passes. I'm pretty happy with now they came out.
Another quandry for the experts here: I'm working on this lance, and after a base coat and two different successively-lighter drubrush layers, I've come to discover the look went too pale and desaturated (?) on me. Whoops.
Is there a way to glaze or wash over this to knock it back toward "blue"? My layers were
VGC Magic Blue basecoat
VMC Deep Sky Blue drybrush
VMC Sky Blue drybrush
Maybe not all the way back to something like Magic Blue, but at least more vibrantly blue than where I landed?
+11
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Glazes are always a good idea! Using your midtone as a glaze is a pretty good move to bring back a little saturation and bind the colors together.
Glazes are always a good idea! Using your midtone as a glaze is a pretty good move to bring back a little saturation and bind the colors together.
Is it as simple as 50/50 glaze medium and paint, or is it more complicated than that?
Depends on how pigmented the paint is but you want more like 80% medium and do several thin layers to tint the colours underneath back to the blue you want
PSN- AHermano
+2
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
From the end of the article on Necrons that went up on Warhammer Community today (emphasis mine):
If you’re wondering how to paint them, we have good news for you. A new set of paints will be released to help you achieve that aged brass look, alongside our first-ever Technical paint formulated to create glowing effects! We’ll tell you all about them a little later on, including some handy painting guides to show you how to achieve the same look. Keep an eye out!
Their called glazes, for fuck's sake. GW's exploitation of novice painters is becoming downright ghoulish.
From the end of the article on Necrons that went up on Warhammer Community today (emphasis mine):
If you’re wondering how to paint them, we have good news for you. A new set of paints will be released to help you achieve that aged brass look, alongside our first-ever Technical paint formulated to create glowing effects! We’ll tell you all about them a little later on, including some handy painting guides to show you how to achieve the same look. Keep an eye out!
Their called glazes, for fuck's sake. GW's exploitation of novice painters is becoming downright ghoulish.
I don't think it's a glaze as they might have figured something different out
They did do contrast paints which a year out do have their highs and lows
+1
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited June 2020
Contrast paints weren't some new thing either. They're just heavier washes. GW needs to put Apple's playbook down and stop pretending they invented shit that's been around for decades.
They said "our first ever" as in the first for them, not first in the world. Probably.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
+4
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited June 2020
I mean, the 'gonna yell at the clouds now' bit is a fair cop. Just because I understand why GW does the branding and 'look at what we're doing' doesn't mean I'm not inclined to roll my eyes at it sometimes.
What are the deets on the two racks on the left? I've decided I need to replace my paint carousel now that I'm trying to get all my Tamiya, GW, and Vallejo stuff usefully organized, and those would fit the bill. Although it's that brush organizer I'm most interested in, if that's a seperate piece.
Gabriel_Pitt on
+1
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited June 2020
All the components are from HobbyZone in Poland, but I bought them from a US reseller on eBay. He does combined shipping (and ships crazy fast - like 3 day turnaround) but his stock ebbs and flows.
The designer app on the site was a huge help and I'm super pleased with everything. I can't recommend it enough.
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
US reseller on eBay.
$120 later and I'm kind of agog at how much SPACE I'm going to have with everything organized, and also how much less pissy I'm going to be in general when I'm not trying to find something on a 80 pot paint carosel that's got about 140 pots of paint on it. :rotate:
Also, the Kickstarter for the dropper bottle tops for GW paints is still on track to ship in August... I might have to start painting more than two or three models per year in spite of myself!
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Decided this weekend to finish a model. Despite having a couple of Neophytes, a Rock Saw Acolyte and a Ridgerunner half finished, I decided to paint a Purestrain. I'm really happy with the result.
adding a little water and stirring them with a toothpick or a stylus or something can help a lot to restore old, separated, gunky citadel paints. stir them up a bit and then try shaking them again.
BloodySloth on
+4
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I'm a big fan of adding small glass beads to the paint pots too.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
double post. My Hero Forge Mini came in! Overall thoughts are that I'm happy, but will certainly do different things on the next one I do. Also XL minis are XL!
changes I would make
1. Don't do different skin tones in the same area to simulate lighting or other effects, the fidelity isn't there.
2. Eye color doesn't seem to matter. As it didn't come through at all.
3. small bits of metal don't come through, though large bits like a sword blade do.
4. It definitely needs a wash and varnish touch up.
So what I'm going to do is touch up some of the gold bits like buckles, his nose ring, etc. And then do a black wash. After that I'm going to hit a few sections with gloss varnish like the blade, jewels, potion and gold bits.
Still though, if this mini is 90% of the way there then I still consider it a win. I think we'll see guides come out how to best select options to optimize the 3d print. I imagine the tech is going to get better too.
I kinda like the idea of a fully base painted mini and doing some practicing on it for highlights.
They probably arent cheap tho...
I saw a kid get handed a JB poster by who I presume was his parents outside my store today....he tore it in half infront of his horrified parents.....There's hope for our youth yet!
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
The angle cardboard is really one of the shipping protectors for when they ship tv's on a pallet I just took it before it ended up in the baler
I like using them though I filled these up as they are great to hold as you prime, to get the angles and such compared to the old piece of fence I also use. So I will now have to find a way to store them since the 10G bag will not cut it anymore
Just getting back into the hobby after a 22 year break and this thread has been a huge inspiration, so thank you all. This is probably the best poxwalker I've more or less finished to date.
"If complete and utter chaos was lightning, then he'd be the sort to stand on a hilltop in a thunderstorm wearing wet copper armour and shouting 'All gods are bastards'."
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Hey all!
So.. um... how's everyone been?
A few years ago I thought about taking up minis painting. I bought into Rune Wars, tried to prime in my bathroom, and got really discouraged and nervous.... and stopped for 3 years.
Well, As I've been doing more gunpla building and buying more minis based games, I've wanted to give things a shot again. And that meant getting over my worries about priming in the public spaces of the apartment.
So finally, today, I took the first steps.
A couple things I learned:
Cutting down floral foam is a really good way to use it!
Watch the way the wind blows... hopefully I didn't ruin my favorite shirt.
Don't place the minis so close together. It's hard to get the sides with them all bunched in there.
Poster tack does jack and shit with floral foam. Maybe I didn't knead it enough?
Anyways. For a first go, this turned out pretty good! I only did one coat and I brought it in to dry/cure. I don't know if I need to do more. But already I'm liking what I am seeing, especially for the putties. The lighter gray they come in just doesn't cut it.
So I started with 10 termagants
Guess I am batch painting the rest
Though after I primed yesterday I noticed a few had defects like air bubbles
So I will write it off as battle damage
Oh god don't panic don't panic it's just the first coat is it supposed to bubble like this?
Where are the bubbles? The paint shouldn't bubble.
They were there when I applied it, like surface tension and the like. I tried to pop them. Everyone's saying skim milk and super thin, so I'm trying that, but there's a LOT of surface area.
Still, the D&D chat's been helping. And I was anxious and it's my first time.
Posts
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I struggled mightily with getting the armor to look nice, after having a really good time doing all the flesh in multiple drybrush passes. I'm pretty happy with now they came out.
Another quandry for the experts here: I'm working on this lance, and after a base coat and two different successively-lighter drubrush layers, I've come to discover the look went too pale and desaturated (?) on me. Whoops.
Is there a way to glaze or wash over this to knock it back toward "blue"? My layers were
VGC Magic Blue basecoat
VMC Deep Sky Blue drybrush
VMC Sky Blue drybrush
Maybe not all the way back to something like Magic Blue, but at least more vibrantly blue than where I landed?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Is it as simple as 50/50 glaze medium and paint, or is it more complicated than that?
Show us yer Warriors of Minas Tirith!
Depends on how pigmented the paint is but you want more like 80% medium and do several thin layers to tint the colours underneath back to the blue you want
PSN- AHermano
Their called glazes, for fuck's sake. GW's exploitation of novice painters is becoming downright ghoulish.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I don't think it's a glaze as they might have figured something different out
They did do contrast paints which a year out do have their highs and lows
I'm gonna go outside and yell at some clouds.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'm not sure this is GW exploiting novice painters here
PSN- AHermano
It sure is! The entirety of my stupid, pedantic annoyance revolves around the use of the term "first-ever" and can be safely ignored.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
What are the deets on the two racks on the left? I've decided I need to replace my paint carousel now that I'm trying to get all my Tamiya, GW, and Vallejo stuff usefully organized, and those would fit the bill. Although it's that brush organizer I'm most interested in, if that's a seperate piece.
The designer app on the site was a huge help and I'm super pleased with everything. I can't recommend it enough.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Also, the Kickstarter for the dropper bottle tops for GW paints is still on track to ship in August... I might have to start painting more than two or three models per year in spite of myself!
Stir them?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
changes I would make
1. Don't do different skin tones in the same area to simulate lighting or other effects, the fidelity isn't there.
2. Eye color doesn't seem to matter. As it didn't come through at all.
3. small bits of metal don't come through, though large bits like a sword blade do.
4. It definitely needs a wash and varnish touch up.
So what I'm going to do is touch up some of the gold bits like buckles, his nose ring, etc. And then do a black wash. After that I'm going to hit a few sections with gloss varnish like the blade, jewels, potion and gold bits.
Still though, if this mini is 90% of the way there then I still consider it a win. I think we'll see guides come out how to best select options to optimize the 3d print. I imagine the tech is going to get better too.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
They probably arent cheap tho...
The one on the left was the color printed mini, in comparison to the one on the right I painted a couple years ago.
Also this is after i repainted the gold and did a nuln oil wash.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The angle cardboard is really one of the shipping protectors for when they ship tv's on a pallet I just took it before it ended up in the baler
I like using them though I filled these up as they are great to hold as you prime, to get the angles and such compared to the old piece of fence I also use. So I will now have to find a way to store them since the 10G bag will not cut it anymore
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
So.. um... how's everyone been?
A few years ago I thought about taking up minis painting. I bought into Rune Wars, tried to prime in my bathroom, and got really discouraged and nervous.... and stopped for 3 years.
Well, As I've been doing more gunpla building and buying more minis based games, I've wanted to give things a shot again. And that meant getting over my worries about priming in the public spaces of the apartment.
So finally, today, I took the first steps.
A couple things I learned:
Cutting down floral foam is a really good way to use it!
Watch the way the wind blows... hopefully I didn't ruin my favorite shirt.
Don't place the minis so close together. It's hard to get the sides with them all bunched in there.
Poster tack does jack and shit with floral foam. Maybe I didn't knead it enough?
Anyways. For a first go, this turned out pretty good! I only did one coat and I brought it in to dry/cure. I don't know if I need to do more. But already I'm liking what I am seeing, especially for the putties. The lighter gray they come in just doesn't cut it.
He looks like he's been in the thick of it, I love it
Way better than clean-marines
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Man I should actually do a test model for my theoretical blood angels project.
Guess I am batch painting the rest
Though after I primed yesterday I noticed a few had defects like air bubbles
So I will write it off as battle damage
MWO: Adamski
"It's a living!"
Oh god don't panic don't panic it's just the first coat is it supposed to bubble like this?
Where are the bubbles? The paint shouldn't bubble.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
They were there when I applied it, like surface tension and the like. I tried to pop them. Everyone's saying skim milk and super thin, so I'm trying that, but there's a LOT of surface area.
Still, the D&D chat's been helping. And I was anxious and it's my first time.