The main problem with audio while gaming is that every program layers in additional settings. So whatever you test in Windows may not be what people hear in Discord, or in something horrible like the voice codec in Apex Legends.
And gaming is often a problem of audio mixing on top of that. It's not just how loud you are, but also how loud your teammates are, and how loud the game is. The best practice is probably just to send out a clean but loud output and let them tune on the other end.
Discord has a test function which works well enough. I also just use the voice recorder app to record 3s clips to see how I sound.
Discord has some neat audio features in general, like auto-lowering other audio when people speak. It also has a lot of noise suppression, echo cancellation etcet.... make sure you dig around in the menus if something is wacky. Though there is no cure for some of my friends who keep clipping because they keep the mics way to close to their mouth.....
The main problem with audio while gaming is that every program layers in additional settings. So whatever you test in Windows may not be what people hear in Discord, or in something horrible like the voice codec in Apex Legends.
And gaming is often a problem of audio mixing on top of that. It's not just how loud you are, but also how loud your teammates are, and how loud the game is. The best practice is probably just to send out a clean but loud output and let them tune on the other end.
Discord has a test function which works well enough. I also just use the voice recorder app to record 3s clips to see how I sound.
Discord has some neat audio features in general, like auto-lowering other audio when people speak. It also has a lot of noise suppression, echo cancellation etcet.... make sure you dig around in the menus if something is wacky. Though there is no cure for some of my friends who keep clipping because they keep the mics way to close to their mouth.....
Discord is surprisingly competent for the most part (including that new noise cancellation stuff from Krisp that they added in); the only weird things I've seen is when I've done screen sharing with friends that Discord will for some reason lock my microphone active when its voice activated (not auto-detect, just set for certain dB activation thresholds) when I'm watching someone else's screenshare.
Perhaps I've not explained myself very well. It's not the outgoing audio I'm sending that's the problem. Folks that I'm talking to can hear me fine (well, when discord isn't on the fritz anyway).
What I'm hoping for is to be able to hear what I'm saying repeated back to me instantaneously through my headphones. Due to the "passive noise cancelling" on my headphones I can't hear my own voice during any sort of decent noise levels in game. For whatever reason this whigs my brain out and I find myself stumbling over my words -_-
Both windows and discord have the ability to play the microphone back through whatever output device, but both have a delay, which is even worse :bigfrown:
I understand there are hardware solutions to this issue, but I'd rather not buy any hardware when the problem is just me sounding dumb in front of my friends.
Can you let 1 cup rest off your ear a bit? I guess if your playing something like an online FPS, that could mess up sound positioning. But I usually have the right cup on my ear and the left resting half on the ear, half off on my temple. This is because I want to hear if my GF is asking me anything or if the cats need something.
I've "modded" my ATK-M50's thought with sock parts to cover the pads so they are super soft and it doesn't bother me that it's sort of off my ear.
Can you let 1 cup rest off your ear a bit? I guess if your playing something like an online FPS, that could mess up sound positioning. But I usually have the right cup on my ear and the left resting half on the ear, half off on my temple. This is because I want to hear if my GF is asking me anything or if the cats need something.
I've "modded" my ATK-M50's thought with sock parts to cover the pads so they are super soft and it doesn't bother me that it's sort of off my ear.
I've tried the slightly off the ear method, but it does indeed fuck up positional sound. I need every advantage I can get in online FPS at this point!
Can you let 1 cup rest off your ear a bit? I guess if your playing something like an online FPS, that could mess up sound positioning. But I usually have the right cup on my ear and the left resting half on the ear, half off on my temple. This is because I want to hear if my GF is asking me anything or if the cats need something.
I've "modded" my ATK-M50's thought with sock parts to cover the pads so they are super soft and it doesn't bother me that it's sort of off my ear.
I've tried the slightly off the ear method, but it does indeed fuck up positional sound. I need every advantage I can get in online FPS at this point!
I could always invest in a pair of open backs...
Alternatively, you can invest in a cheap audio interface or mixer and route the audio that way (split the microphone audio using a splitter, route one end to the PC and the other to the mixer, route the output audio from the PC to the mixer, and then plug the headphones into the monitor output of the mixer... there are multiple ways to do it, of course). Probably would be cheaper than investing in open back headphones just for this purpose, depending on the gear that you get. Unfortunately, I'm not seeing any methods for video gaming that simply loopback microphone audio to the headphones without latency. There are plenty of ways to do this for DAWs. Maybe a Virtual Audio Cable program would work for you? Usually those have some amount of latency, though.
Microphones are very quiet unamplified. Feeding it back into your headphones would require some kind of Amp.
I'm not sure anything is going to be faster softwarewise than going to microphone in Windows Sound Settings, click "additional device properties" and then "listen to this device"
Microphones are very quiet unamplified. Feeding it back into your headphones would require some kind of Amp.
I'm not sure anything is going to be faster softwarewise than going to microphone in Windows Sound Settings, click "additional device properties" and then "listen to this device"
That typically has some amount of latency (20ms to 100ms) because on-board sound is garbage with garbage drivers, unfortunately. It's a common problem. It's fine with ASIO drivers and an audio interface, but that doesn't generally work for gaming.
You are absolutely right about requiring plug-in power for most boom microphones attached to gaming headsets. Ugh. It's a tricky problem. A mixer or interface may have enough gain to compensate, but you won't know until you try it, hardware-wise.
Finally invested in proper little washable covers for my ATH-M50s instead of, uh, cycling through various dumb solutions including socks, wearing them over a hoodie hood, a strip of t-shirt around my head and ears, etc.
I suppose I could have instead stopped wearing headphones that breath poorly even with the better after-market ear pads 15+ hours per day, but nah.
Though I should get around to sending my ATH-AD700s for repair some day, they were much more comfortable for lengthy wear and had a good sound stage for gaming, even if I probably like most music more on the M50s.
Maybe I should also buy the little 3d-printed fix piece for the broken hinges on my M50s, since they're currently just vigorously super glued into the right shape, which works but will surely fail eventually and put me through another frustrating round of glueing. Anyone tried that and had any luck with it?
Microphones are very quiet unamplified. Feeding it back into your headphones would require some kind of Amp.
I'm not sure anything is going to be faster softwarewise than going to microphone in Windows Sound Settings, click "additional device properties" and then "listen to this device"
That typically has some amount of latency (20ms to 100ms) because on-board sound is garbage with garbage drivers, unfortunately. It's a common problem. It's fine with ASIO drivers and an audio interface, but that doesn't generally work for gaming.
You are absolutely right about requiring plug-in power for most boom microphones attached to gaming headsets. Ugh. It's a tricky problem. A mixer or interface may have enough gain to compensate, but you won't know until you try it, hardware-wise.
Thinking about it, I do have a low latency input device already! I've got a little input I use for playing (for a very loose definition of play) guitar, perhaps I can jerry-rig something through that...
Thanks for the thoughts guys though, I figured the software version was a long shot. Damn you MS and your shitty decade old drivers!
So I have a questions. I have a pc with basic onboard sound. I have a Steelseries headset with built in Mic. I also have some Sony MDR-7506's that I had bought an Antlion mod mic to go with this a few years back but I could never get it to stay stuck on, and then having two cables was bugging me as well.
Ok then. I would like to have something to listen to music a bit better? I DO have a desktop mic I bought a few years ago in a box somewhere that I would like to use instead of the antlion and wear my Sony's. In the meantime I'm basically using my Steelseries.
Long story and rambling short - How to make my iTunes sound better on the cheap($100)?
Googling those, one of the first things I see is that the MDR-7506s are 63 ohms and need more juice to sound their best than your onboard audio is likely to be pushing.
So an amp or something with an amp built in. I'll defer to others on what specifically.
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
So I have a questions. I have a pc with basic onboard sound. I have a Steelseries headset with built in Mic. I also have some Sony MDR-7506's that I had bought an Antlion mod mic to go with this a few years back but I could never get it to stay stuck on, and then having two cables was bugging me as well.
Ok then. I would like to have something to listen to music a bit better? I DO have a desktop mic I bought a few years ago in a box somewhere that I would like to use instead of the antlion and wear my Sony's. In the meantime I'm basically using my Steelseries.
Long story and rambling short - How to make my iTunes sound better on the cheap($100)?
I'm planning on buying a new 4k TV in July (happy 3 paycheck month everyone that gets paid biweekly!), but I just realized that that also means my Onkyo TX SR608 circa 2010 is also going to need upgrading, as I think we've moved past the HDMI 1.4 standard
I'm planning on buying a new 4k TV in July (happy 3 paycheck month everyone that gets paid biweekly!), but I just realized that that also means my Onkyo TX SR608 circa 2010 is also going to need upgrading, as I think we've moved past the HDMI 1.4 standard
So, thread, help me reciever?
Well the only major advancement with AVR’s is with HDMI 2.1. Other advancements cater to high end setups. The first avr’s with 2.1 are coming this fall and start in the $600-700 range i think. They also only come with 1 hdmi 2.1 input.
Some suggestions:
Option 1) keep your 608 and just watch 1080p for now. Most programming is still that anyways. Wait another year and see if some lower priced models with 2.1 come out.
Option 2) Get something cheap that can passthrough 4k now. Deal with future proofing by saving some now and upgrading again down the road.
EDIT: For what to get with option 2, it may depend on your speakers.
I don't really plan on having any 4k context until I get a ps5. So, yeah, I can probably wait another year or so on a new reciever.
Thanks!
Also you can just run your 4k stuff into the tv, then the tv into the receiver for the audio (on some tvs). It's how I have glorious 4k through my roku.
I don't really plan on having any 4k context until I get a ps5. So, yeah, I can probably wait another year or so on a new reciever.
Thanks!
Also you can just run your 4k stuff into the tv, then the tv into the receiver for the audio (on some tvs). It's how I have glorious 4k through my roku.
Same. It annoys my GF to no end having to change the input on the TV and AVR though lol.
I don't really plan on having any 4k context until I get a ps5. So, yeah, I can probably wait another year or so on a new reciever.
Thanks!
Also you can just run your 4k stuff into the tv, then the tv into the receiver for the audio (on some tvs). It's how I have glorious 4k through my roku.
Same. It annoys my GF to no end having to change the input on the TV and AVR though lol.
Then get a Harmony remote and do it all with one button.
I don't really plan on having any 4k context until I get a ps5. So, yeah, I can probably wait another year or so on a new reciever.
Thanks!
Also you can just run your 4k stuff into the tv, then the tv into the receiver for the audio (on some tvs). It's how I have glorious 4k through my roku.
Same. It annoys my GF to no end having to change the input on the TV and AVR though lol.
Then get a Harmony remote and do it all with one button.
My GF found that more complex lol (though some of that is on me for having issues getting the thing programmed happily). But yeah, it is the one downside, I need multiple remotes now. Still, much better workaround than a new $600+ receiver!
Yeah I tried that in the past with mixed results. At the time it was the new Comcast X1 and the PS4 trying to get them working. Now we have Fios One with voice which who knows how easy that'll be to pull together.
I've thought about replacing my Denon X4000 with something cheap but it's hard to downgrade that much just so I can make it slightly easier to switch from the Roku back to everything else. I'm going to do some more research, since for Denon, they mention all ports are HDMI 2.1 but only 1 is 40Gbps. Not sure what the impact is of that.
Seems like 40Gbps is required for 8K/60fps, which might be unrealistic. I'll probably wait till after the PS5 is out and we see real benchmarks for the games. If it's struggling to do 4k/60fps, then I think this generation may be fine.
Seems like all other shipments will arrive at original shipment date which is cool to hear.
They talked some more about the improved headband and better materials for sound dampening.
The even more interesting news is the EQ app they are building to work with the headphones.
Seems like it will provide firmware updates and allow you to build an EQ profile and upload it to the headphones.
+1
KoopahTroopahThe koopas, the troopas.Philadelphia, PARegistered Userregular
Here's the full update:
First Pandas Ship
Hey Friends,
The first Panda units are ready to ship! Final QC checks are complete and we’ll have Pandas on a plane in the first half of next week.
In addition to shipping these first units in June, we’re pleased to announce all remaining orders are expected to ship on schedule.
We also wanted to tell you about a few improvements we made for the production model based on late-stage community feedback :
Improved Damping Scheme
We improved the damping material and layout to further reduce reflections inside the cup. For most listeners, this manifests as improved detail and a more open soundstage.
Extended Headband
We added two notches of extension on either side of the headband. This will allow most people to wear Panda over a hat.
Additional Headband Padding
We doubled the amount of padding and selected a more porous foam. Production Pandas have more cushion than the review samples.
EQ App
Drop is partnering with a pro-audio DSP company to create an accompanying (but fully optional) smartphone application to use with Panda.
This application has two functions right now. First, serve firmware updates to Panda. Second, offer an equalization function. Panda was designed to sound great without software manipulation, and as a result, it is an ideal platform for software manipulation. The driver type and amplifier structure take an EQ really well, so we’re excited to give you a couple ways to customize the sound.
We’re still working with our partner to see how far we can push the EQ feature but we’re shooting for full parametric EQ and we’ll learn more about how that’s going in a meeting later tonight.
A note on how we’re implementing the equalization: The equalization is managed by Panda’s hardware. You’ll define an EQ profile with the app, then it will upload that profile to your Panda, and it will have that EQ profile applied until you change it with the app again. This is about finding exactly the sound you like, and enjoying it with any digital source.
Most of the time, the moment you buy a product you really care about, that’s the peak enjoyment. You get it later, some aspect isn’t as good as you hoped, and it’s still great, but it’s not better than you hoped. With these improvements, and the way we develop products in general, we hope the best part is when you get to use it.
Thanks for your patience and support, more updates to come.
Weird thing. If I use my schiit modi 3 dac over USB, I get some static that I can hear when things are quiet.
If I instead power it with USB and get audio from optical, no static at all.
My power strip is looking awfully crowded so this is kind of annoying. USB not providing as clean a sound as it should?
Try a different USB cord, or a USB cord with a ferrite ring on it. Could also be the specific port you are using (not all ports are created equal). Sometimes you can get cleaner power from a powered USB hub as well.
Seems like all other shipments will arrive at original shipment date which is cool to hear.
They talked some more about the improved headband and better materials for sound dampening.
The even more interesting news is the EQ app they are building to work with the headphones.
Seems like it will provide firmware updates and allow you to build an EQ profile and upload it to the headphones.
Not knocking them, but I like how they mention "ships in June" and it's like June 28th lol. Really pushing that marketing line. At this point, if ships in July is the end of July, I'll expect mine in August.
I'd heard about the improvements, many of which convinced me to jump onboard. The EQ app will be great. They mentioned they wanted to do it, nice to hear they are. I am curious about the 'Improved Damping Scheme'. I wonder how much it changes the sound sig. All the reviews were overwhelmingly positive, I'd hate for them to have done something to mess with that sound.
Origin ID\ Steam ID: Warder45
+1
KoopahTroopahThe koopas, the troopas.Philadelphia, PARegistered Userregular
edited June 2020
Yeah, I'd like to hear impressions of people who have tested the review products vs the production line.
Edit - I was also a June Shipment but haven't gotten a survey yet so, curious as to how "on schedule" works for the people who ordered for June over the first 1000 units.
Edit edit - apparently there are more detailed updates on the Drop.com site:
From a comment on the Drop.com update
“No, the “on schedule” per our last communication, if you haven’t’ already been contacted and you originally ordered in June, you’re in the next round in early July. We cannot give partial cash refunds due to IGG’s limitations, so the credit will come in the form of Drop credit, more on that soon. We’ve been trying to work out a cash solution for the last couple weeks, just doesn’t seem possible."
I haven't received any update yet either. I was around order #2000.
We'll see, the general feedback from people seems great. They said from the 500 units that have reached people, 10 have had some sort of noise issue, and some of those were from the warm-up period on the amp and have dissipated.
+1
KoopahTroopahThe koopas, the troopas.Philadelphia, PARegistered Userregular
Oh hey, an official update:
Panda Shipping Schedule Update
Hello Friends,
It’s been an exciting week with the first Pandas arriving for US customers. We’re proud that Panda is living up to expectations.
Driver production is running smoothly after a small delay last week. This delay was the result of an additional round of QC for a new batch of driver materials. The good news is that production is moving forward now, but we lost a few days and the knock-on effects are going to push some July orders into August (by a couple of days).
Remaining June orders will ship in the third or fourth week of July. 7/27 according to the current schedule. We will be in touch via email in the next couple of weeks to grant your $30 Drop credit.
July orders will ship between the last days of July and the second week of August.
August orders will ship in the fourth week of August.
So from our last update to now, everything shifts by a couple of weeks, but we’d rather push by a couple of weeks and do the extra round of QC than rush at this stage. Lastly, Backerkit surveys will be sent a couple of weeks prior to each shipment in order to confirm shipping addresses and collect any additional taxes.
Thanks for your patience everyone, we’re shipping these as fast as we responsibly can.
Inquisitor772 x Penny Arcade Fight Club ChampionA fixed point in space and timeRegistered Userregular
I'm really getting sick and tired of these fucking apps/sites that do not have volume controls and end up blasting the volume to deafness-inducing levels on my PC. Does anyone know of a way to set a maximum output volume across the board so that even if some asinine program decides to set MAX EVERYTHING at the start, it doesn't make me go even more deaf than I already am?
For reference, my Windows system volume is already set to 50%, which I think is more than reasonable given there are plenty of things I already set at max or close-to-max volume.
I'm really getting sick and tired of these fucking apps/sites that do not have volume controls and end up blasting the volume to deafness-inducing levels on my PC. Does anyone know of a way to set a maximum output volume across the board so that even if some asinine program decides to set MAX EVERYTHING at the start, it doesn't make me go even more deaf than I already am?
For reference, my Windows system volume is already set to 50%, which I think is more than reasonable given there are plenty of things I already set at max or close-to-max volume.
I'm really getting sick and tired of these fucking apps/sites that do not have volume controls and end up blasting the volume to deafness-inducing levels on my PC. Does anyone know of a way to set a maximum output volume across the board so that even if some asinine program decides to set MAX EVERYTHING at the start, it doesn't make me go even more deaf than I already am?
For reference, my Windows system volume is already set to 50%, which I think is more than reasonable given there are plenty of things I already set at max or close-to-max volume.
Thankfully my K70 has a large mute button that if something starts blaring, I can just mute and adjust as needed.
Origin ID\ Steam ID: Warder45
0
KoopahTroopahThe koopas, the troopas.Philadelphia, PARegistered Userregular
People on the Panda IndieGoGo page are getting impatient in the comments due to the lack of frequent updates. Someone replied today that Drop Support are now directing users that the remaining June orders are now expecting Backerkit emails to go out first week of August and shipped by the fourth week of August.
Posts
All my sound comes through my headphones, voice included. Do you have your voice going to speakers or something and game sound to headphones?
And gaming is often a problem of audio mixing on top of that. It's not just how loud you are, but also how loud your teammates are, and how loud the game is. The best practice is probably just to send out a clean but loud output and let them tune on the other end.
Discord has a test function which works well enough. I also just use the voice recorder app to record 3s clips to see how I sound.
Discord has some neat audio features in general, like auto-lowering other audio when people speak. It also has a lot of noise suppression, echo cancellation etcet.... make sure you dig around in the menus if something is wacky. Though there is no cure for some of my friends who keep clipping because they keep the mics way to close to their mouth.....
Discord is surprisingly competent for the most part (including that new noise cancellation stuff from Krisp that they added in); the only weird things I've seen is when I've done screen sharing with friends that Discord will for some reason lock my microphone active when its voice activated (not auto-detect, just set for certain dB activation thresholds) when I'm watching someone else's screenshare.
What I'm hoping for is to be able to hear what I'm saying repeated back to me instantaneously through my headphones. Due to the "passive noise cancelling" on my headphones I can't hear my own voice during any sort of decent noise levels in game. For whatever reason this whigs my brain out and I find myself stumbling over my words -_-
Both windows and discord have the ability to play the microphone back through whatever output device, but both have a delay, which is even worse :bigfrown:
I understand there are hardware solutions to this issue, but I'd rather not buy any hardware when the problem is just me sounding dumb in front of my friends.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
I've "modded" my ATK-M50's thought with sock parts to cover the pads so they are super soft and it doesn't bother me that it's sort of off my ear.
I've tried the slightly off the ear method, but it does indeed fuck up positional sound. I need every advantage I can get in online FPS at this point!
I could always invest in a pair of open backs...
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
I'm not sure anything is going to be faster softwarewise than going to microphone in Windows Sound Settings, click "additional device properties" and then "listen to this device"
You are absolutely right about requiring plug-in power for most boom microphones attached to gaming headsets. Ugh. It's a tricky problem. A mixer or interface may have enough gain to compensate, but you won't know until you try it, hardware-wise.
I suppose I could have instead stopped wearing headphones that breath poorly even with the better after-market ear pads 15+ hours per day, but nah.
Though I should get around to sending my ATH-AD700s for repair some day, they were much more comfortable for lengthy wear and had a good sound stage for gaming, even if I probably like most music more on the M50s.
Maybe I should also buy the little 3d-printed fix piece for the broken hinges on my M50s, since they're currently just vigorously super glued into the right shape, which works but will surely fail eventually and put me through another frustrating round of glueing. Anyone tried that and had any luck with it?
Thinking about it, I do have a low latency input device already! I've got a little input I use for playing (for a very loose definition of play) guitar, perhaps I can jerry-rig something through that...
Thanks for the thoughts guys though, I figured the software version was a long shot. Damn you MS and your shitty decade old drivers!
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
Ok then. I would like to have something to listen to music a bit better? I DO have a desktop mic I bought a few years ago in a box somewhere that I would like to use instead of the antlion and wear my Sony's. In the meantime I'm basically using my Steelseries.
Long story and rambling short - How to make my iTunes sound better on the cheap($100)?
So an amp or something with an amp built in. I'll defer to others on what specifically.
Schiit currently has a Fulla gaming Amp/DAC that will handle your headphones and your mic in the b-stock section of their website for $69. (nice)
So, thread, help me reciever?
Well the only major advancement with AVR’s is with HDMI 2.1. Other advancements cater to high end setups. The first avr’s with 2.1 are coming this fall and start in the $600-700 range i think. They also only come with 1 hdmi 2.1 input.
Some suggestions:
Option 1) keep your 608 and just watch 1080p for now. Most programming is still that anyways. Wait another year and see if some lower priced models with 2.1 come out.
Option 2) Get something cheap that can passthrough 4k now. Deal with future proofing by saving some now and upgrading again down the road.
EDIT: For what to get with option 2, it may depend on your speakers.
Thanks!
Also you can just run your 4k stuff into the tv, then the tv into the receiver for the audio (on some tvs). It's how I have glorious 4k through my roku.
Same. It annoys my GF to no end having to change the input on the TV and AVR though lol.
Then get a Harmony remote and do it all with one button.
My GF found that more complex lol (though some of that is on me for having issues getting the thing programmed happily). But yeah, it is the one downside, I need multiple remotes now. Still, much better workaround than a new $600+ receiver!
I've thought about replacing my Denon X4000 with something cheap but it's hard to downgrade that much just so I can make it slightly easier to switch from the Roku back to everything else. I'm going to do some more research, since for Denon, they mention all ports are HDMI 2.1 but only 1 is 40Gbps. Not sure what the impact is of that.
Seems like 40Gbps is required for 8K/60fps, which might be unrealistic. I'll probably wait till after the PS5 is out and we see real benchmarks for the games. If it's struggling to do 4k/60fps, then I think this generation may be fine.
EDIT Jesus it’s actually 50gbps
Seems like all other shipments will arrive at original shipment date which is cool to hear.
They talked some more about the improved headband and better materials for sound dampening.
The even more interesting news is the EQ app they are building to work with the headphones.
Seems like it will provide firmware updates and allow you to build an EQ profile and upload it to the headphones.
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah
If I instead power it with USB and get audio from optical, no static at all.
My power strip is looking awfully crowded so this is kind of annoying. USB not providing as clean a sound as it should?
Not knocking them, but I like how they mention "ships in June" and it's like June 28th lol. Really pushing that marketing line. At this point, if ships in July is the end of July, I'll expect mine in August.
I'd heard about the improvements, many of which convinced me to jump onboard. The EQ app will be great. They mentioned they wanted to do it, nice to hear they are. I am curious about the 'Improved Damping Scheme'. I wonder how much it changes the sound sig. All the reviews were overwhelmingly positive, I'd hate for them to have done something to mess with that sound.
Edit - I was also a June Shipment but haven't gotten a survey yet so, curious as to how "on schedule" works for the people who ordered for June over the first 1000 units.
Edit edit - apparently there are more detailed updates on the Drop.com site:
From a comment on the Drop.com update
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah
I still haven't gotten a backerkit email
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah
We'll see, the general feedback from people seems great. They said from the 500 units that have reached people, 10 have had some sort of noise issue, and some of those were from the warm-up period on the amp and have dissipated.
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah
For reference, my Windows system volume is already set to 50%, which I think is more than reasonable given there are plenty of things I already set at max or close-to-max volume.
BAM
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/eartrumpet/9nblggh516xp?activetab=pivot:overviewtab
Used to use it a bunch when playing PUBG, due to the fucking atrocious way they have sound setup.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
Thanks! It's not exactly what I was looking for, but I'll give it a try as even a partial solution would be an improvement.
Bummed. I want these cans.
Twitch: KoopahTroopah - Steam: Koopah